CREAM OF ONIONS
Melt three ounces of butter in casserole, add one cup of flour and moisten with one quart chicken broth and one pint milk. Stir with egg whip, season with salt and pepper and add six sliced onions. Cook until tender and rub through fine sieve. Place back on fire again and finish soup with hot cream and sweet butter. Serve with small bread croutons browned in butter.
CHICKEN
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FRIED CHICKEN CASTAÑEDA
Fry an onion, chopped very fine, in butter, add flour, mix and pour in one quart chicken broth and one-half pint cream. Stir and let come to a boil. Let it cook about ten minutes. Add two egg yolks and parsley, and remove from the fire. This sauce must be quite thick. Dip thin slices of one three-pound hen in the sauce so that it adheres to both sides. Lay them in a pan sprinkled with bread crumbs and also sprinkle the chicken with bread crumbs. When cold, dip them in beaten egg and crumbs and fry in deep hot grease. Serve with tomato sauce and French peas as garnish. If handled properly, one three-pound hen will make ten to twelve fair-sized orders.
CHICKEN MACIEL
Preheat oven to broil (or four hundred degrees, if casserole is glass). Dice one pound cooked chicken breast meat into one-inch squares. In large skillet over medium heat, melt one-quarter pound butter and stir in two teaspoons curry powder and one-quarter cup sherry wine. Add chicken to this mixture and sauté five minutes. Meanwhile, cook two cups boiled rice. Using a two-quart saucepan, heat one quart cream sauce. Carefully blend chicken and cooked rice into hot cream sauce. Stir carefully until well mixed. Place in casserole, top with three-quarters cup grated Swiss cheese, and place under broiler until browned, about four minutes, or bake in glass dish at four-hundred degrees until browned and bubbly, about ten minutes. (This was the signature dish of the Kansas City Union Station dining room, named for its longtime manager Joe Maciel.)
CHICKEN LUCRECIO
Unjoint and quarter a six pound hen chicken. Salt and roll in a mixture of two tablespoons chili powder and six tablespoons flour. Roast chicken to a nice brown. Add more of the chili powder–flour mixture and sprinkle with finely chopped garlic and a teaspoon of Camino seed. Add two quarts of water or stock and place in moderate oven for three and one-half hours. When done, remove gravy and stir in one-quarter pound melted butter. Pour gravy over chicken and sprinkle with toasted almonds. (This is another La Fonda favorite from Chef Allgaier, which went nationwide on the Associated Press wire, offered as a treat for “housewives looking for a meal to warm Fall-chilled throats as well as the cockles of the heart.”)
BEEF
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BEEF RISSOLES WITH MASHED POTATOES
Boil two pounds of lean beef, seasoned with salt and pepper. Mix meat with one chopped green pepper, one small chopped onion, a cup of boiled rice, one-half ounce of summer savory, and season with nutmeg and grated lemon peel. Grind this all together in your hash machine. Then form in balls about the size of small hen eggs, bread and fry. If necessary to have more moisture, add a little beef stock. Serve with a mound of mashed potatoes in the center of the dish, a rissole at each end and side, with some thickened roast beef gravy poured around. Mashed potatoes: Peel and chop five potatoes and place in pot of salted water. Boil until tender, drain liquid and mash. Add butter and small amount of canned milk and whip. Stir in desired amount of salt and pepper. Garnish potatoes with parsley. This dish may also be served with kidney beans, green peas, French string beans or mixed vegetables. If the above is compounded according to directions it makes a very nice dish and gives you another outlet for that part of your beef which you cannot serve as steaks or roast. We have tried this at several houses with good results.
BEEF TENDERLOIN STROGANOFF
Sauté two pounds of beef tenderloin tips, cut into two-inch pieces with one onion, finely chopped over a fast fire, but not too brown. Sauté one-half pound mushrooms, cut in thick slices, separately, adding one-half clove garlic, mashed with salt, at the last minute. Now put all ingredients together, adding one cup sour cream and one cup white wine, let simmer for five minutes, season with salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne, and serve.
PLANTATION BEEF STEW ON HOT BUTTERMILK BISCUITS
Place one and one-half pounds beef, cut into one and one-half-inch cubes, and one quart of hot water in saucepan, and bring just to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for one and a half hours. Add one cup of diced potatoes, cover, and continue cooking thirty to sixty minutes, until the potatoes are mushy. Add another cup of diced potatoes, one-half cup diced onions, six chopped green onions, one-quarter teaspoon black pepper, one clove garlic, minced, and seasonings. Cook until vegetables are tender, about twenty minutes. When ready, split a hot buttermilk biscuit and ladle stew over bottom half. Replace top and add more stew to suit. You can substitute chicken, veal, pork, or ham for beef to make this stew. (This pre–Civil War recipe from a Harvey chef’s grandmother was upgraded by using prime beef.)
HUNGARIAN BEEF GOULASH WITH POTATO DUMPLINGS
Sauté one and one-half pounds of chopped onions to a golden brown, add paprika and one clove of garlic, mashed with salt to a puree, mix well and add one and one-half pounds of lean beef, cut in two-inch pieces. Cook for one and one-half hours, stirring frequently to prevent meat from sticking to sauce pan and adding once or twice a half cup of water; season with salt to taste. Dumplings: Mix two pounds of grated potatoes, three tablespoons of flour, one teaspoon of corn starch and a pinch of nutmeg and salt, add the yolks of two eggs, form into dumplings the size of a golf ball, roll in flour and drop into boiling hot salt water. Cook slowly for ten minutes (do not cover pot). Before serving, roll dumplings in buttered browned bread crumbs.
CHOPPED BEEF STEAK MARCIA
Pass one pound trimmed beef through meat chopper. Add, finely minced onions sautéed in butter, chopped parsley; season with salt and pepper; mix with one egg, and form into round steaks. Fry slowly in butter until medium done and dish up on platter. Place fried egg on top, and garnish with fried zucchini.
SEAFOOD
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ANGELS ON HORSEBACK
Dry large oysters with towel, season with salt and cayenne pepper. Wrap in parboiled strips of bacon and tie with toothpick. Dip in flour, eggwash, and fresh breadcrumbs. Place on skewers, and fry in hot lard a golden brown. Serve on toast, and garnish with quarter lemons and parsley.
MOUNTAIN TROUT AU BLEU
Clean a fresh-killed trout, ten inches or more, removing entrails but leaving on head and tail. Be careful not to remove the slime covering the fish, as it is important to the flavor. Place trout in fish pan and set aside. Prepare court bouillon by bringing two cups of fish stock to a boil and adding one sliced onion, one bay leaf, three whole cloves, two tablespoons of vinegar and the juice of half a lemon. Stir, reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes. Strain before using. Pour bouillon over trout to cover. Return pan to burner, reduce heat to slow boil and cook for ten to twelve minutes. Remove trout from pan and serve with drawn butter and horseradish cream, made by mixing one-half cup of heavy cream, one teaspoon of sugar, two drops of white vinegar and one teaspoon freshly grated horseradish. (This dish was served opening night at the Montezuma, and later adapted by a Fred Harvey dining car chef.)
MACARONI AND OYSTERS
Cook macaroni in salted water, without breaking it, till it is soft. Butter a covered mold or small pail quite thickly, and, beginning in the center of the bottom, coil the macaroni around. As it begins to rise on the sides put a layer of oysters, only half cooked, mixed with a thick cream sauce, and then add more macaroni, and so on until the mold is full. Put on the cover and cook in a kettle of boiling water for half an hour. Turn out on a hot platter and surround with cheese balls made by adding melted butter and chopped parsley to grated American cheese and molding into shape. Pass a bowl of cream sauce with this. (This recipe from Harvey Girl B. P. O’Dowd of Kansas City was published in a private Harvey Girl cookbook.)
FINNAN HADDIE DEARBORN
Simmer one pound finnan
haddie (smoked haddock) in one and one-half cups milk for ten minutes. Place in two individual shallow casseroles or shirred egg dishes. Arrange potato slices, made from two medium potatoes, at one end of casserole. Brush potatoes with melted butter. Sprinkle with salt. Pour one cup cream over fish and potatoes, sprinkle with paprika. Bake in moderate oven (three-hundred fifty degrees Fahrenheit) for fifteen minutes. Sprinkle with parsley if desired. Cover casserole to retain the wonderful aroma, and serve immediately, hot and bubbly. (This was one of the earliest dishes on the menu at Dearborn Station in Chicago.)
CRABMEAT AND SHRIMPS IN RAMEKINS
Simmer three diced fresh mushrooms in butter with one cup cleaned fresh shrimps. Add one cup cream sauce and one-half cup pure cream, season with salt, cayenne pepper and sherry wine. Let cook for a few minutes, adding one-half cup picked fresh crabmeat. Fill into buttered ramekins, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs. Dot with small piece of butter, and brown in oven.
BAKED HALIBUT WITH LOBSTER SAUCE
Preheat oven to four hundred degrees. Cut two pounds halibut steaks in eight ounce portions. Season with salt, pepper, one ounce bread crumbs, one-half cup soft sweet butter and one-half cup of white wine. Bake in baking dish for twenty minutes and put aside. Cover with aluminum foil to keep moist. For the sauce, melt one-half cup lobster butter (below) and one tablespoon sautéed shallot, one-quarter pound fresh sliced mushrooms, and eight ounces lobster meat for two minutes. Add one-half cup of white wine and reduce by half. Add one cup whipping cream and brandy reduced for five minutes, finish the sauce off the heat by stirring the sweet butter to thicken. Season with salt and pepper. Reheat gently over slow heat till simmer. Pour over baked fish and serve immediately. Lobster butter: Place one and one-half cups dry white wine, one-half cup cognac, Kosher salt, one tablespoon freshly crushed black peppercorns, and two pounds lightly salted butter in saucepan. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve pushing down on four and one half pounds crushed lobster heads to extract all the juices. Chill in the refrigerator. When the mixture is cold lift off the butter. Wrap it securely in plastic and keep in the refrigerator or freeze. Makes about one pound.
BAKED CODFISH
One pint of finely shredded codfish; one pint of mashed potatoes; two tablespoonsful of butter; two-thirds of a cupful of cream; three eggs beaten separately, the whites to be added the last thing before baking. Beat the whole mixture hard and long, then bake in a buttered pudding dish. Pour out on a platter and then pour over it the sauce, made as follows: three tablespoonfuls of butter, creamed with one of flour, added to one and one-half cupfuls of boiling water; cook until smooth. Add half a teaspoonful of salt, three shakes of white pepper and two hard-cooked eggs chopped fine.
CODFISH BALLS
One pint of minced cooked codfish; one pair of calves’ brains, chopped fine, one cupful of mashed potatoes, one egg and salt and pepper to taste. Cook the brains in water containing a tablespoonful of lemon juice. When tender, drain, blanch and drain again. Chop fine and mix with the codfish, potatoes, eggs and seasoning. Form into small balls, flour lightly, dip in beaten egg and roll in cracker crumbs. Fry in deep fat and serve hot. (These two cod recipes are “lenten delicacies” from the Santa Fe employee magazine.)
SAUTÉED SHRIMP & SCALLOPS
Heat four tablespoons butter in heavy skillet, add one pound of medium shrimp, shelled and deveined, and sauté for three to five minutes or until pink and cooked. With a slotted spoon, remove the shrimp to a dish. Keep warm. Add one pound of bay scallops and four tablespoons of butter to the same skillet. Sauté the scallops for several minutes until cooked. Remove with slotted spoon and add to the shrimp. Over high heat, reduce the skillet cooking juice, then stir in two tablespoons brandy, one tablespoon of tarragon puree (below), two cups of fish veloute (below) and one-half cup heavy cream. Cook over high heat, swirling in the pan, for thirty seconds, lower the heat and stir in the accumulated juices from the shrimp and scallops, fold in the scallops and shrimp. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, then reheat gently. Serve with steamed rice. Tarragon puree: Heat four tablespoons butter in a skillet, add one cup of fresh tarragon leaves and stir to coat well. Cover the pan and let the tarragon cook gently for thirty minutes. Pour the mixture into a food processor or through a sieve. Fish veloute: Melt four tablespoons lightly salted butter in a saucepan and stir in one-quarter cup of all-purpose flour. Gradually stir in two and two-thirds cups of fish stock and stir until sauce is smooth. Bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat and let the sauce simmer for twenty minutes, whisking often.
FILLET OF FLOUNDER GLORIA
Remove fillets from fish and flatten with cleaver. Spread finely chopped, well seasoned spinach, mix with minced shallots and bind with egg. Roll fish fillets and place in buttered pan. Season, poach in lemon juice and Bercy wine for about ten to twelve minutes. Remove and dish up on platter with fancy border of Duchesse potatoes. Garnish each fillet with cooked cup mushrooms filled with diced fresh shrimp. Reduce essence in pan, add one cup of well-prepared Newberg sauce, seasoned with salt and cayenne pepper. Pour sauce over fish, glaze quickly under gas flame and garnish with thread of tomato sauce.
DEVILED LOBSTER
Take the meat from the claws of the lobster and pull out all the creamy part from the head and chop it up perfectly fine; mix with it a dust of paprika, a dessert-spoonful of chopped chutney, an ounce and a half of warm butter and one peeled raw tomato chopped fine. Put all these together in a stew-pan and stir over the fire till the mixture boils; then add a tablespoonful of mixed English mustard and the same of French mustard. Stir all together, turn out onto little square pieces of hot buttered toast and serve with a little sprinkling of chopped parsley and lobster coral or paprika. This should be served very hot. The body of the lobster can be used up in the same way or kept for a mayonnaise or other dish.
BULL FROGS SAUTÉ PROVENCAL
Remove skin, dismember bull frog, cut into desired pieces, season with salt and pepper, dip in flour and sauté in butter and one crushed garlic kernel, a few minced shallots, one chopped onion and three sliced fresh mushrooms. Add a few fresh tomatoes, peeled and diced. Let simmer until frog legs are tender, season with salt and pepper and finish sauce with chopped parsley and olives. Serve in chafing dish.
VEGETABLES
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HARVEY COLE SLAW
In a large bowl, combine one medium head cabbage, shredded, and one small onion, finely minced. Spread one-third cup granulated sugar over it, toss with fork. Next, bring to boil one teaspoon sugar, one and one-half teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon dry mustard, one-half teaspoon celery seed, one-half cup salad oil, one-half cup apple cider vinegar. Pour over cabbage, toss thoroughly and refrigerate for at least four hours. Serves five to six, lasts beautifully.
GERMAN POTATO SALAD
Boil twelve potatoes. While hot, cut into thin slices, cover with finely sliced onions and add one teaspoon of salt and one-half teaspoon of pepper. Mix the yolk of one egg with three tablespoons of olive oil and four tablespoons of vinegar. Pour the well-mixed dressing over the potatoes, then pour a half-cup of boiling water or broth over the whole mixture and stir well. Sprinkle with chopped parsley; cover and let stand a few hours. This salad will never be dry.
POTATO SOUFFLÉ
Boil four good-sized mealy potatoes; pass them through a sieve. Scald in a saucepan half a teacupful of sweet milk and a tablespoonful of butter; add to the potatoes with a little salt and pepper and beat to a cream. Add, one at a time, the yolks of four eggs, beating thoroughly; put a small pinch of salt into the whites and beat them to a stiff froth, then add them to the mixture, beating as little as possible. Have ready a well-buttered baking dish, large enough to permit the soufflé to rise without running over; bake twenty minutes in a brisk oven, serve at once in the same dish in which baked.
CAULIFLOWER GREENS RESTELLI
Sauté two tablespoons chopped onion and three strips of bacon, diced, in two teas
poons of olive oil until tender but not brown. Add one-half cup chopped tomatoes, one-half cup tomato puree and one-half clove garlic, minced. Simmer until amount is reduced by half, about twenty minutes. Wash one cauliflower (one and one-quarter pound), including the good leaves and stems; chop fine. Cook five minutes in boiling salted water and drain. Add to tomato sauce and serve. Sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese over each serving if desired. (This was created by a sous chef at St. Louis Union Station for the droves of new immigrants passing through.)
MRS. FORD HARVEY’S BAKED EGG PLANT
Egg Plant is very popular in the south and Mrs. Ford Harvey thinks it is finer when baked than cooked in any other way. Her method is to take one medium sized egg plant, cut it in halves, remove the pulp and mix with it one cup bread crumbs, one-fourth cup stock or cream, one-half cup chopped mushrooms (canned). Season with butter, pepper, salt. Fill the two halves with the mixture and sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, with a little butter. Bake twenty minutes and serve with hot tomato sauce. (Judy shared this recipe with the Kansas City Star, for a dish she may very well have brought to serve at her Tip Top Cafeteria.)
BELL PEPPER, FORD HARVEY STYLE
Remove the skin from six bell peppers (enough to make twelve orders) by dipping them into hot grease. Peel three or four eggplants and cut and dice a quarter of an inch thick. Cut the peppers in two lengthwise, remove the fleshy part adhering to the seeds, chop it and add to the eggplant. Cut two or three onions and one green pepper fine; put on the fire with three ounces of olive oil or butter and let cook for ten minutes. Add a handful of fresh bread crumbs, one crushed clove of garlic, eggplant, and a little salt, and stir frequently until done. Add one tablespoon flour, mix well; pour in one-half pint milk; let come to a boil and keep stirring. Add two whole eggs and a little chopped parsley. Mix well, season if necessary, and remove from the fire. Stuff the bell peppers with this mixture. Sprinkle with grated cheese; put a small lump of butter on each one, and leave them in a hot oven long enough to produce a nice golden brown color. (This was known as a favorite dish of Ford’s.)
Appetite for America Page 49