The Gondola, a cable-car system, provides great views of the bay. The huge Dunia Fantasi (Fantasy Land; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-6471 2000; Mon-Fri 190,000Rp, Sat & Sun 270,000Rp; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun) fun park includes the Halilintar twisted roller-coaster ride and Kora Kora (swinging ship). Marine mammal lovers, be warned. Sea World lives here too.
Koridor 5 of the busway runs to Ancol. A taxi will cost around 70,000Rp from Jl Thamrin.
zFestivals & Events
Independence DayCULTURAL
Indonesia’s independence is celebrated on 17 August; the parades in Jakarta are the biggest in the country.
Java Jazz FestivalMUSIC
(www.javajazzfestival.com)
Held at the Jakarta Convention Center in early March in Senayan. Attracts acclaimed international artists, including jazz heavyweights like Ramsey Lewis and Brad Mehldau. Crossover pop stars such as Bobby McFerrin and Meshell Ndegeocello played in 2015.
Jakarta AnniversaryFAIR
The 22nd of June marks the establishment of the city in 1527. Celebrated with fireworks and the Jakarta Fair.
Jalan Jaksa Street FairCULTURAL
Features Betawi dance, theatre and music, art and photography. Held for one week in August.
Indonesian Dance FestivalDANCE
(www.facebook.com/IndonesianDanceFestival)
Features contemporary and traditional performances at the Taman Ismail Marzuki in November.
JiFFestFILM
(Jakarta International Film Festival; %021-3005 6090; www.muvila.com/jiffest)
Internationally sponsored and lauded, Indonesia’s premier film festival is held in November and December.
South Jakarta
4Sleeping
1DharmawangsaA4
2Fave HotelB4
3Kemang IconB4
5Eating
4Cantina 18B3
5Darling Rice ClubB3
6D'FestB4
7Kampung KemangB4
8Parc 19B4
9PayonB4
10ToscanaB5
11TrediciB3
Warung TurkiB4
6Drinking & Nightlife
12365 EcobarB4
13Eastern PromiseB4
14Potato HeadC2
15Potato Head GarageB2
16Tree HouseB4
17X2A2
3Entertainment
18PhoenixB3
7Shopping
19ColonyB4
20PasarayaA3
PerimterB4
PeriplusB4
21Plaza SenayanA2
4Sleeping
Backpackers be prepared: Jakarta lacks good budget options, so book ahead or consider a midrange option (which are plentiful). At the luxury end of the market, there are some excellent deals with four-star hotels available from as low as US$70 per night.
Jalan Jaksa Area
Once Jakarta's backpacking hub, though travellers are thin on the ground these days, probably because most hotels on Jl Jaksa are grungy if not sleazy. That said, you will find a selection of restaurants and bars, as well as some terrific midrange options on nearby Jl Wayid Hasim and Jl Sabang. The location, near Jl Thamrin (for the busway) and Gambir train station remains excellent.
Jalan Jaksa Area
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Bersih SehatB2
4Sleeping
2Hostel 35C1
3Hotel CiptaC2
4Kosenda HotelA2
5Max OneB1
5Eating
6Daoen SirihC1
7GarudaA2
8KL VillageC1
9Sate Khas SenayanC1
10Saung GrenvilB2
11Shanghai Blue 1920A1
6Drinking & Nightlife
Awan LoungeA2
12Kopi Oey SabangB1
3Entertainment
13Jaya PubA2
Hostel 35GUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-392 0331; Jl Kebon Sirih Barat I 35; r with fan/air-con 150,000/250,000Rp; aW)
A good option for the price. The clean, if aged, tiled rooms have high ceilings and come with breakfast, and the lobby/lounge area with rattan sofas is inviting and decorated with fine textiles and tasteful photography.
Max OneHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-316 6888; www.maxonehotels.com; Jl Agus Salim 24; r from 550,000Rp; aiW)
A moderately priced hip hotel. Rooms are smallish but nicely styled, with a pleasing pastel colour scheme. We love the steep weekend discounts, in-house minimart and excellent location.
Hotel CiptaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3193 0424; www.ciptahotel.com; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim 53; r 580,000Rp; aW)
Looking like a cross between an alpine mountain lodge and a pagoda, Cipta is not fabulous, but its clean, carpeted rooms with wood furnishings are comfortable and bright enough, and bathrooms sparkle. Weekend discounts plummet to 330,000Rp. If you can book at that price, you'll be thrilled.
oKosenda HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3193 6868; kosendahotel.com; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim 127; r from 750,000Rp; aW)
Hip but not overbearing, minimalist and modern but comfortable, rooms aren't huge but they are very clean and tastefully designed with wall-length built-in desks, floating beds and glass-box baths. Prices are a steal when offered on booking websites. It does a lovely breakfast buffet, makes excellent coffee, has a good 24-hour restaurant in the lobby and a superb rooftop bar.
Cikini & Menteng
Cikini (south) and Menteng (southeast) of Jaksa have a selection of decent midrange hotels, a guesthouse or two and some excellent restaurants and cafes.
Six DegreesHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-314 1657; www.jakarta-backpackers-hostel.com; Jl Cikini Raya 60B-C, Cikini; dm 125,000-160,000Rp, d 280,000Rp; aiW)
Set in a mini-mall, this hostel – run by a helpful and friendly Irish/English/Sumatran team – remains popular with travellers. There's a relaxed, sociable atmosphere, a pool table and large-screen TV room, a guests' kitchen and roof garden. Dorms are tight but clean; breakfast is included. It's tricky to find, but located right opposite the Ibis Budget Hotel.
Gondia International GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-390 9221; gondiaguesthouse.com; Jl Gondangdia Kecil 22; r 400,000-500,000Rp; a)
This modest-looking guesthouse, with hostel-esque signage, occupies a leafy garden plot on a quiet suburban street and has spacious tiled rooms. Breakfast included.
Ibis Budget HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3190 8188; www.ibis.com; Jl Cikini Raya 75; r from 571,000Rp; aWs)
A modern 3-star hotel in a good location. It's institutional but clean, with flat-screen TVs and wi-fi. Downstairs there are several restaurants, a minimart and you'll find a huge pool right behind the hotel.
oHotel Indonesia KempinskiHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-2358 3800; kempinski.com; Jl Thamrin 1; r from 2,500,000Rp; aiWs)
Formerly Hotel Indonesia, Jakarta's original luxury hotel, this renovated and re-imagined beauty still delivers the glamour. Upper-level rooms are huge with tasteful rugs and black wood floors, sumptuous marble baths, glass desks, ergonomic desk chairs, wood furnishings, quality linens and firm beds.
Factor in the rooftop pool, gym and spa, the decadent buffet breakfast, and its location on the traffic circle, and you have an ideal Jakarta launchpad. Best rates are online via booking websites or through local travel agents.
Other Areas
Packer LodgeHOSTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-629 0162; www.thepackerlodge.com; Jl Kermunian IV 20-22; dm 145,000-155,000Rp, s 205,000-215,000Rp, d 310,000Rp; aW)
The new cute hostel on the block, this self-annointed, owner-operated boutique hostel set in Glodok offers hip, Ikea-chic environs and plenty of amenities close to Kota. Choose among the four- or eight-bed dorms where the bunks are curtained pods with electrical outlets, lights and USB charger. Earplugs included.
The singles and doubles have less personality but mo
re privacy. All share common Western baths and a spacious common kitchen. Activities and smiles abound.
Fave HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-718 1320; favehotels.com; Jl Kemang 16, Kemang; r from 421,200Rp)
Modern and creative, this edition of the Indonesian, three-star micro-hotel offers small but liveable quarters with room service, pre-fab furnishings, plush linens and not much else. Still solid value.
oKemang IconBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-719 7989; www.alilahotels.com/kemangicon; Jl Kemang Raya I; r from 1,751,000Rp; aiWs)
Terrific all-suite hip hotel with gorgeous rooms, kitted out with cutting-edge design and state-of-the-art bathrooms. It has a rooftop lap pool, a fine restaurant and the staff go the extra mile to help out guests. The atrium lobby is fabulous, and so is the cool art gallery, Perimeter. It's located in the heart of the happening Kemang area.
DharmawangsaHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-725 8181; www.the-dharmawangsa.com; Jl Brawijaya Raya 26; r from US$253; aiWs)
One of the city addresses, this luxurious hotel exudes style and class, with huge rooms and unmatched standards of service (each guest is assigned a private butler!). The restaurants and leisure facilities – including two pools, a fine spa, and squash and tennis courts – are also outstanding.
Alila JakartaHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-231 6008; www.alilahotels.com/jakarta; Jl Pecenongan 7-17; r from 1,090,000Rp; aiWs)
An excellent modern hotel, in the north of the city not far from most of the sights. The attention to detail is impressive; the aromatherapy oil wafting across the stylish reception area sets a great initial impression. The outdoor pool, gym and restaurants are excellent.
5Eating
Jakarta is a world-class eating destination. You'll find an amazing choice including oh-so refined Javanese imperial cuisine, hit-the-spot street grub and, if you're pining for something familiar, you can find Western food from gourmet French to fish and chips.
Two excellent street-food hotspots are Jl Pecenongan (about 500m north of Monas) for sate babi (pork satay) and fresh seafood, and Jl Sabang (just west of Jl Jaksa) for sate ayam (chicken satay) with lontong (sticky rice) and other delicacies.
Shopping malls are also good tucker terrain; many have inexpensive food courts.
Jalan Jaksa Area
Jl Jaksa has a crop of backpacker-geared cafes and many authentic places on nearby streets.
Daoen SirihINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kebon Sirih 41-43; meals 12,000-25,000Rp; h11am-10pm)
Non-touristy and a short stroll northwest of Jl Jaksa, this large, bamboo-roofed, open-sided food court has a wide selection of cook-shacks offering dishes such as nasi goreng kambing (spicy rice with goat) and sate Madura (skewered meat with sweet soy sauce), as well as noodles and espresso.
KL VillageMALAY, INDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3192 5219; Jl Jaksa 21-23; mains from 23,000Rp; h7am-11pm Sun-Wed, 24hr Thu-Sat; W)
Ever-popular Malaysian-style place that serves up inexpensive grub such as black-pepper chicken, canai (Malay-Indian bread) and martabak (stuffed pancake). If you're suffering after a long flight (or a long night), try one of the health-kick juices: 'heart and the brain' or 'sugar balance'.
Sate Khas SenayanINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3192 6238; Jl Kebon Sirih Raya 31A; mains 30,000-50,000Rp; h11.30am-10pm; W)
Upmarket air-conditioned restaurant at the northern end of Jl Jaksa. It is renowned for its superb sate – skewers of chicken, beef and lamb – plus Indonesian favourites such as ayam goreng kremes (fried chicken in batter) and gurame bakar (grilled fish).
oGarudaINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-6262 9440; Jl Hayam Wuruk 100; meals from 100,000Rp; h24hr; W)
A smoky, fluorescent-lit, all-day, all-night depot of locally loved Padang food goodness, throbbing with Bollywood tunes and Indo-pop, and packed with locals. Little dishes of tempting flavours are piled on your table with lightning speed: jackfruit curry, chilli prawns, tempe penyet (fried tempe with spicy sauce), rendang (beef coconut curry), potato and corn fritters. All of it made fresh.
If you touch one part, you buy it all, so prices add up. But it's so worth it.
Shanghai Blue 1920CHINESE, INDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-391 8690; www.tuguhotels.com/shblue; Jl Kebon Sirih Raya 77-79; mains 50,000-130,000Rp; h12.30pm-11pm)
Outstanding masakan peranakan (Chinese-influenced Indonesian cuisine) served in a room loaded with flamboyant furnishings, some rescued from an old Batavia teahouse. Standouts from the menu include drunken shrimp cooked with traditional Chinese wine, and crispy fish with mango and sweet chilli sauce.
Saung GrenvilSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-392 0333; www.saung-grenvil.com; Jl Wahid Hasyim 87; meals 100,000-180,000Rp)
One of three locations in the city, and renowned for its outstanding seafood, particularly the Padang-style chilli crab, though there are plenty of other seafood options. Get an order of fried rolls to soak up that Padang sauce.
Kota, Sunda Kelapa & Glodok
Santong Kuo Tieh 68CHINESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-692 4716; Jl Pancoran; 10 dumplings 20,000Rp; h10am-9pm)
You'll see cooks preparing fried and steamed Chinese pork dumplings out front of this humble but highly popular little place. The bakso ikan isi (fish balls) are also good.
Warung Kota TuaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 11; meals 20,000-25,000Rp; h8am-8pm)
On the west side of Taman Fatahillah square, this semi-renovated old warehouse (an open-sided space with exposed brick walls and artwork) is a relaxed location for a reasonably priced meal, coffee, tea or juice. Try the ayam bakar (grilled chicken), mie medan (Sumatran noodles) or nasi cap cai (rice with mixed vegetables).
Kedai Seni DjakartéINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 17; mains 21,000-45,000Rp; h9am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
One of several similar places around Taman Fatahillah square, this is installed in the basement of an old Dutch building. You can eat inside under the ceiling fans or sweat it out on the outdoor tables. The cheap and tasty dishes are classic Indonesian comfort food (think nasi goreng).
oHistoriaINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-3176 0555; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 11; mains 35,000-73,000Rp; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Historia's tasty dishes from around the archipelago include fried fish with a Sumatran sambal (Ikan goreng sambal adaliman), Javanese mixed rice (nasi campur), and all manner of oxtail – in soup, grilled, deep fried or braised with ground chilli. Served in hip, tiled, warehouse environs with soaring ceilings and an attached bar where DJs spin and bands rock.
Café BataviaINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-691 5531; cafebatavia.com; Jl Pintu Besar Utara 14; mains 75,000-190,000Rp; W)
This historic restaurant overlooks Taman Fatahillah square in Kota, the old Dutch quarter. Its old parlour floors, marble tabletops, art deco furnishings and jazz on the hi-fi make it an essential stop for an atmospheric drink or a long lunch. It can be quiet in the evening.
Cikini & Menteng
VietopiaVIETNAMESE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-391 5893; Jl Cikini Raya 33; mains 35,000-60,000Rp; h11.30am-10.30pm; Wv)
A stylish yet humble oasis on an otherwise relentlessly traffic-clogged drag, this authentic Vietnamese place offers delicious, moderately priced and delicately spiced cooking, including flavoursome pho bo (beef broth) and other classics from Vietnam. Vegetarian menu available.
Warung DaunINDONESIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-391 0909; www.warungdaun.com; Jl Cikini 26; 26,000-98,000Rp; h11:30am-9pm)
Eating Indonesian is frequently tasty, but often unhealthy thanks to MSG, low-quality oil and a dearth of organic ingredients. This re-imagined warung (food stall) attempts to right the path. Expect delec
table Sundanese and Chinese Indonesian dishes, prepared using organic ingredients whenever possible, and presented tastefully.
oPor Que NoTAPAS$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-390 1950; Jl Cokroaminoto 91; dishes 30,000-100,000Rp; h5pm-midnight; W)
A tucked-away, super-stylish rooftop tapas bar on the 5th floor of the De Ritz Building in Menteng, and popular with those who know. It grills and slices tenderloin, does a magnificent squid-ink paella, prawns sauteed with chilli and garlic, and eggplant fried with honey and truffle oil. And the churro ice-cream sandwiches? Best save room for dessert.
oLara DjonggrangINDONESIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-315 3252; www.tuguhotels.com/laradjonggrang; Jl Teuku Cik Ditiro 4; mains 48,000-108,000Rp; h12.30pm-11pm; W)
While many Jakartan restaurants lack atmosphere, that accusation could never be levelled at Lara Djonggrang – as you enter it's easy to think you've stumbled across some lost temple. One that serves perfectly executed and creatively presented imperial Indonesian cuisine from across the archipelago.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 9