While much of what you see today lies in ruins, the bathing pools have been restored, and the tunnels and underground mosque are quite special.
Sono-Budoyo MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-376775; admission 5000Rp; h8am-1.30pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to noon Fri & Sat)
This dusty, dimly lit treasure chest is the pick of Yogya’s museums, with a first-class collection of Javanese art, including wayang kulit puppets, topeng (masks), kris and batik. It also has a courtyard packed with Hindu statuary and artefacts from further afield, including superb Balinese carvings. Wayang kulit performances are held here.
Pasar BeringharjoMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl A Yani; h8am-4pm)
Yogya’s main market, 800m north of the kraton, is a lively and fascinating place. The front section has a wide range of batik – mostly inexpensive batik cap (stamped batik). More interesting is the old section towards the back. Crammed with warungs and stalls selling a huge variety of fruit and vegetables, this is still very much a traditional market. The range of rempah rempah (spices) on the 1st floor is quite something. Come early in the morning for maximum atmosphere.
Museum Kareta KratonMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission 5000Rp; h8am-4pm)
Near the kraton entrance, Museum Kareta Kraton is a wonderful old carriage house with exhibits of the opulent chariots of the sultans. The leather upholstered and intricately painted horse carts feature detailed craftsmanship. The biggest and most commanding are crowned with dragons and mouldings inlaid or coated with thick gold leaf.
Pakualaman KratonMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sultan Agung; h9.30am-1.30pm Tue, Thu & Sun)F
This small museum includes a pendopo (large, open-sided pavilion) that can hold a full gamelan orchestra, and a curious colonial house. Outside opening times you can explore the grounds.
YOGYA IN…
TWO DAYS
Start your day with a visit to the Kraton and a traditional performance of gamelan, wayang or dance, then spend the afternoon exploring the kampung surrounding the sultan’s palace and nearby Taman Sari. In the evening stroll the narrow streets of the traditional Sosrowijayan area and its myriad restaurants.
Your second day could start with a wander down Jl Malioboro scouting for batik bargains, and a meander through Yogya’s main market, Pasar Beringharjo. A becak ride to Kota Gede to seek out silver could be finished off with a trip to Prawirotaman or to Mediterranea in neighbouring Jl Tirtodipuran for dinner.
FOUR DAYS
After exploring Yogya it’s time to get out and see the wonders within striking distance of the city. Rise early and catch the sunrise at the incomparable Buddhist temple of Borobudur, before exploring the verdant countryside and fascinating villages around the monument.
On day four, move on to Prambanan, the Hindu masterpiece on the other side of the city; it’s fun to make a whole day of it by cycling there via some of the minor outlying temples.
Eastern Yogyakarta
The east of the city has several more interesting sights, including the silver village of Kota Gede and several museums.
Kota GedeAREA
(sacred tomb admission 5000Rp; hsacred tomb around 9am-noon Sun, Mon & Thu, around 1-3pm Fri)
Kota Gede, now an upmarket suburb of Yogyakarta, has been the hub of Yogya’s silver industry since the 1930s, but it was once the first capital of the Mataram kingdom, founded by Panembahan Senopati in 1582. Senopati is buried in the small graveyard of an old mosque located to the south of the town’s central market. You can visit the sacred tomb, but be sure to wear conservative dress when visiting.
Jl Kemasan, the main street leading into town from the north, is lined with busy silver workshops. Most of the shops have similar stock, including hand-beaten bowls, boxes, fine filigree and modern jewellery; they are closed on Sunday.
Kota Gede is about 5km southeast of Jl Malioboro. Catch bus 3A or 3B, take a becak (about 25,000Rp) or cycle there; it’s flat most of the way.
Affandi MuseumMUSEUM
(%0274-562593; www.affandi.org; Jl Laksda Adisucipto 167; admission 25,000Rp, camera 25,000Rp, mobile phone with camera 15,000Rp; h9am-4pm except holidays)
One of Indonesia’s most celebrated artists, Affandi lived and worked in a wonderfully quirky riverside home studio, about 6km east of the town centre. Today it's the Affandi Museum, which has an extensive collection of his paintings, including some astonishing self-portraits and personal items. Check out his car, a real boy racer’s dream: a lime-green and yellow customised 1967 Galant with an oversized rear spoiler.
There’s a great little cafe here, and Affandi’s artistic touch even extends to the mushullah (prayer room), which occupies a converted horse carriage, painted in technicolour tones. It looks like a psychedelic gypsy cart. Catch bus 1A to reach this museum from Jl Malioboro.
Other Areas
Pasar PastyMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ring Rd Selatan; h8am-4pm)
Yogya’s bird market has songbirds, owls, raptors and pigeons (for training), but occasionally also ravens (which, sadly, are still used in black magic). Note that some people might find it distressing to find endangered animals being sold here illegally. It's close to the Prawirotaman area south of the centre.
Museum Sasana WiratamaMUSEUM
(Monumen Diponegoro; GOOGLE MAP ; admission by donation; h8am-noon Tue-Sun)
In the northwest of the city, this museum honours the Indonesian hero Prince Pangeran Diponegoro, who was leader of the bloody but futile rebellion of 1825–30 against the Dutch. A motley collection of the prince’s belongings and other exhibits are kept in the small museum at his former Yogya residence.
CCourses
Yogya offers a variety of courses, with everything from cooking demonstrations to Bahasa Indonesia classes.
Via ViaCOURSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-386557; www.viaviajogja.com; Jl Prawirotaman I 30)
Well-structured language, cooking, batik and silver jewellery-making courses for 80,000Rp to 200,000Rp, depending on the class size.
Alam Bahasa IndonesiaLANGUAGE COURSE
(%0274-589631; www.alambahasa.com; Kompleks Kolombo III, Jl Cendrawasih; per hour US$10 )
One-on-one and small group Bahasa Indonesia language study from a professional school. Discounts for students.
TTours
Tour agents on Jl Prawirotaman and in the Sosrowijayan area offer a host of tour options at similar prices. Typical day tours and per-person rates (excluding entrance fees) are Borobudur (from 90,000Rp to 100,000Rp), Dieng (275,000Rp), Gedung Songo and Ambarawa (250,000Rp), Prambanan (75,000Rp), Borobudur and Parangtritis (250,000Rp), and Solo and Candi Sukuh (300,000Rp).
Longer tours, such as to Gunung Bromo and on to Bali (from 500,000Rp for two days and one night) and Bromo/Ijen (from 800,000Rp for three days and two nights) are also offered. Tours depend on the number of people (a minimum of four is often necessary).
Operators also arrange cars with driver, with rates starting at 500,000Rp per day.
Via Via ToursTOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.viaviajogja.com; Jl Prawirotaman I 30)
This famous cafe-restaurant offers a dozen different tours, including some really creative options. There are numerous bike and motorbike tours, including a backroad trip to Prambanan (190,000Rp to 210,000Rp), city walks (120,000Rp to 135,000Rp) and even a jamu (herbal medicine) and massage tour (235,000Rp to 265,000Rp) that takes in a visit to a specialist market. Tours to East Java are also offered.
Kaleidoscope of JavaTOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 2711 7439; www.kaleidoscopeofjavatour.com; Gang Sartono 823, Rumah Eyang)
Fascinating tours of the Borobudur region. The day trip (300,000Rp) from Yogya involves sunrise from Menoreh hill; visits to Borobudur, Pawon and Mendut temples and a monastery, cottage industries and Javanese dance practices; and all meals.
Jogja TransTOUR
(%0274-439 8495, 081 6426 0124; www.jogjatrans.com; Gang 04/
09, Madurejo, Prambanan)
Good all-rounder for tours to places in Central Java and beyond, including Bromo and Ijen. It offers a fleet of cars with drivers (per day 500,000Rp), and also sells bus and minibus tickets and can make hotel bookings.
Great ToursTOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-583221; www.greattoursjogja.com; Jl Sosrowijayan 29)
It operates tours, sells bus and train tickets, and arranges chartered transport to destinations throughout Central Java.
zFestivals & Events
GerebegCULTURAL
Three Gerebeg festivals – held at the end of January and April and the beginning of November – are Java’s most colourful and grand processions. In traditional court dress, palace guards and retainers, not to mention large floats of decorated mountains of rice, all make their way to the mosque, west of the kraton, to the sound of prayer and gamelan music.
Contact the tourist information centre for an exact schedule.
Arts FestivalART
This annual festival, held for two weeks in June, features a wide range of shows and exhibitions. Most events are held at the Benteng Vredeburg.
4Sleeping
Yogya has Java’s best range of guesthouses and hotels, many offering excellent value for money. During the high season – July, August and Christmas and New Year – you should book ahead.
Sosrowijayan Area
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Great ToursB3
4Sleeping
21001 MalamB2
3105 HomestayC2
4Andrea HotelB2
5Bladok Losmen & RestaurantB2
6Dewi HomestayB2
7Losmen LucyC2
8Sari HomestayC2
9Setia KawanB2
10TiffaB2
5Eating
11Bedhot RestoB2
12Hanis Restaurant & BakeryB2
13Mi Casa es Tu CasaB2
14Oxen FreeC3
6Drinking & Nightlife
Oxen FreeC3
15Republic PositivaD2
3Entertainment
16LuciferA3
7Shopping
17Boomerang BookshopC2
Sosrowijayan Area
This area is very popular with backpackers as most of Yogya’s cheap hotels are in the souk-like maze of gang (alleys) within this traditional neighbourhood. But the best part about staying in what feels like a bule (foreigner) ghetto is that those little lanes spill out onto Jl Sosrowijayan and are within a short stroll of the more authentic Jl Malioboro.
Dewi HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-516014; [email protected]; Jl Sosrowijayan GT I 115; r 125,000Rp)
An attractive, long-running place that has character, with a leafy, shady garden and spacious, charming rooms – many have four-poster beds draped with mosquito nets.
Losmen LucyGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-513429; r with fan/air-con 125,000/200,000Rp; a)
One of the best losmen in the area, this place is run by a house-proud lady and has 12 tidy, tiled rooms with good beds; all have en-suite mandi (Indonesian-style bathrooms).
TiffaGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-512841; [email protected]; Jl Sosrowijayan Wetan Gt II 12; s/d incl breakfast 125,000/150,000Rp)
A tidy little losmen owned by a hospitable family, with a handful of smallish, quirky and charming rooms, each with private mandi. There’s a communal balcony where you can tuck into your free breakfast and slurp tea or coffee. It's above an art shop.
105 HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-582896; [email protected]; r with fan/aircon 120,000/200,000Rp; aW)
A lobby complete with Gaudi-esque tiles and a welcoming owner set a nice introduction at this guesthouse, which has seven classes of neat rooms in the heart of Sosrowijayan's souk-like backstreets.
Andrea HotelGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-563502; www.andreahoteljogja.wordpress.com; Sosrowijayan I/140 Gang II; r incl breakfast 140,000-285,000Rp; aW)
They claim hotel, but it feels more losmen. Which means the rooms are fair value but lack soul. Still, it offers good-quality beds and linen and there's a slim street terrace where you can watch the Sosrowijayan world go by with a drink in your hand.
Bladok Losmen & RestaurantHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-560452; www.bladok.web.id; Jl Sosrowijayan 76; s with fan 100,000Rp, d with fan 150,000-240,000Rp, d with air-con 320,000Rp; aWs)
A dependable, well-run place that looks vaguely like an alpine Austrian chalet. Bladok's rooms won't disappoint, with lovely chunky wooden beds and furniture, high cleanliness standards and crisp, fresh linen; some have balconies. The (small) pool is a real bonus and the cafe-restaurant serves European food and homemade bread.
Sari HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-513428; Gang I 97; r 160,000Rp; aW)
The lobby is decked out in batik-wrapped columns, and the tiled rooms here come with pastel paint jobs, flat-screen TVs and air-con. They can be dark, thanks to the tinted windows, but they're still a bargain.
Setia KawanGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 2273 8963, 0274-512452; www.bedhots.com; Jl Sosrowijayan GT 1/57 ; s/d with fan 175,000/190,000Rp, s/d with air-con 190,000-225,000Rp; ai)
Inviting, well-run place that occupies a fine, artistically decorated house. There are nice touches everywhere, with classic Vespa scooters in the lobby, a lounge area with TV/DVDs, computers for internet access and a good information board. Rooms are smallish but very attractive, though the swirling, hippie-ish murals and sloped ceiling could be a bit much after a heavy night.
1001 MalamHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.1001malamhotel.com; Sosrowijayan Wetan Gt I/57; d from 550,000Rp; aW)
A beautifully built Moroccan-style structure complete with hand-carved wooden doorways and a lovely Moorish courtyard decked out with craftsman tiles. It's certainly an inspirational setting, though arguably a bit overpriced given the competition.
Prawirotaman Area
2Activities, Courses & Tours
Kaleidoscope of JavaA2
Via ViaC2
Via Via ToursC2
4Sleeping
1Delta HomestayB2
2GreenhostB2
3Hotel KiranaD1
4Kampoeng Djawa HotelD2
5Prambanan GuesthouseB1
6Rumah EyangA2
7Via ViaC1
5Eating
8MilasB3
9Tempo del GelatoD1
10Via ViaC2
3Entertainment
11K MealsC1
7Shopping
12GongA1
Prawirotaman Area
This area has a few cheap places mixed in with lots of midrange choices. Plenty have pools and the choice of restaurants is excellent. But it does feel like a tourist ghetto within an Indonesian city.
Kampoeng Djawa HotelGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-378318; www.kampoengdjawahotel.com; Jl Prawirotaman I 40; r with fan 111,000-190,000Rp, with air-con 230,000Rp; aW)
Occupying a long, thin house, this place has character to spare. The rooms (in five price categories) have artistic touches including exposed brick walls, mosaic tiling and pebble-walled bathrooms. There's a peaceful rear garden for your complimentary tea or coffee (available all day) and afternoon snack. Staff are eager to help here.
Delta HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-327051; www.dutagardenhotel.com; Jl Prawirotaman II 597A; r with shared mandi 115,000-135,000Rp, r 230,000-250,000Rp; aWs)
A sunny backstreet guesthouse with a selection of small but perfectly formed rooms built from natural materials, each with a porch, grouped around a pool. It’s peaceful here, staff are welcoming and breakfast is included.
Via ViaGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-386557; www.viaviajogja.com; Prawirotaman 3/514A; r incl breakfast 150,000-200,000Rp; aW)
Part of the expanding Via Via emp
ire, this fine guesthouse enjoys a quiet side-street location not far from the mothership cafe-restaurant. It has seven stylish rooms with high ceilings, good-quality beds and semi-open bathrooms. There's a garden at the rear for socialising.
Rumah EyangGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 2711 7439; Jl Parangtritis, Gang Sartono 823; r incl breakfast from 220,000Rp; aiW)
A stylish suburban house that's been converted into an inviting guesthouse and art space. Rooms are simple and comfortable, but the real benefit here is that Atik, the Javanese writer-owner, is a font of knowledge about the region and offers great tours.
Prambanan GuesthouseHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-376167; www.prambanangh.be; Jl Prawirotaman I 14; s/d with fan & cold shower 245,000/285,000Rp, with air-con & hot shower 380,000/400,000Rp ; aWs)
It's looking a bit tired these days, but it remains a peaceful place to stay with a small pool and attractive gardens. Cheaper rooms are quite plain, but the better options are plenty comfortable and have ikat-style textiles draped on good-quality beds.
Hotel KiranaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-376000; [email protected]; Jl Prawirotaman I 45; r incl breakfast from 370,000/395,000Rp; aW)
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 20