Terang BulanCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl A Yani 108; h9am-8pm)
Good fixed-price place for batik.
BUYING BATIK
If there's one Indonesian word that you'll remember from your trip to Yogya it's 'batik', which translates to something of a blessing and a curse. Batik is both one of Yogya’s biggest draws (it’s one of the city’s purist art forms) and worst blights (due to the hard sell and scams directed at tourists).
Plenty of tourists get suckered into buying overpriced batik. Perhaps the best strategy is to see as much stuff as you can before opening the purse strings – window-shop and start looking in the cheapest places, including the markets and mass-production galleries around Taman Sari. Small batik paintings start at around 50,000Rp (although the asking price may be 500,000Rp). You can then graduate to the upmarket galleries.
Antiques, Curios & Furniture
Although a few antiques can be found in the shops and markets, be aware that dealers spend an inordinate amount of time ageing puppets, masks and all manner of other goods in the pursuit of antiquity.
Jl Tirtodipuran and Jl Prawirotaman have stores selling artefacts and furniture from all over Indonesia. Prices are generally high – bargain furiously.
GongHANDICRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-385367; [email protected]; Jl Tirtodipuran 56; h8am-10pm)
A hole-in-the-wall storefront with an incredible collection of authentic antique wooden puppets and masks from across the archipelago, though most are from Java. Some are as much as 50 years old. To the discerning collector this is a treasure chest.
Bookstores
GramediaBOOKS
(%0274-433 1141; Jl Laksda Adisucipto, Ambarukmo Plaza; h10am-8pm)
Gramedia is 5km west of the centre and stocks a few new English-language titles.
Boomerang BookshopBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878 4579 3942; Gang I 67; h10am-8pm)
Has used guidebooks and fiction, Periplus maps and books, plus souvenirs.
Silver
The village of Kota Gede specialises in silver, although it can be found all over town. Fine filigree work is a Yogya speciality. Kota Gede has some very attractive jewellery, boxes, bowls, cutlery and miniatures, and there are dozens of smaller silver shops on Jl Kemesan and Jl Mondorakan, where you can get some good buys if you bargain.
Guided tours of the process, with no obligation to buy, are available at the large factories. Most shops are closed on Sunday.
HSJEWELLERY
(www.hssilver.com; Jl Mondorakan I)
Ask for a substantial discount off the marked prices.
MDJEWELLERY
(%0274-375063; Jl Pesegah KG 8/44)
Rings, bracelets, earrings and more. Down a small alley off the street; try for discounts.
Tom’s SilverJEWELLERY
(%0274-525416; Jl Ngeski Gondo 60)
An extensive (and expensive) selection and some superb large pieces.
Art
Lana GalleryARTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0818 0412 8277, 0877 3929 3119; [email protected]; Jl Menukan; hTue-Sun)
A great range of contemporary art from new and emerging artists from across the archipelago, many of them graduates of Yogya’s fine arts school. It's run by Wildan, one of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet.
8Information
The website www.yogyes.com is an excellent portal to the city and Central Java.
Dangers & Annoyances
Hassles from smooth-talking batik salesmen are a constant issue for every traveller in town. The tourist board gets hosts of complaints about these sharks, who may strike up conversations pretending to be guides. Inevitably you’ll end up at a gallery where you’ll get the hard sell and they’ll rake in a big commission if you buy. A time-honoured scam is to pressure you to visit a ‘fine-art student exhibition’ or a ‘government store’ – there are no official shops or galleries in the city.
Some of these dodgy batik salesmen hang around the kraton, where they tell you that the kraton is closed or there are no performances, but they might offer to show you to the ‘sultan’s batik workshop’ (which is actually just a very expensive commission-paying showroom).
Be aware too that due to a schism in the ruling family there are actually two separate entrances, and ticket offices, at the kraton. One entrance (with a 5000Rp charge) only allows you to view a small area, which contains some dioramas and horse carriages; it may be signposted ‘Pagelaran’. Official-looking guys with IDs will try to shepherd you in here before inviting you to look at some of the ‘sultan’s batik’. This is not the main entrance to the kraton, which has a big clock by its ticket window (and an entrance fee of 12,000Rp).
Becak drivers are very pushy in Yogya; those offering ‘special rates’ of 1000Rp for one hour are also trying to get you into a batik gallery.
Internet Access
Wi-fi is ubiquitous. Almost all guesthouses and restaurants have a decent connection.
Medical Services
Ludira Husada Tama HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-620333; Jl Wiratama 4; h24hr)
Money
There are numerous banks (and a few money changers) in the tourist areas. BNI Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Trikora I; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) is opposite the main post office. Mulia ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Malioboro 60, Inna Garuda Hotel) has the best moneychanging rates in Yogya, and changes euros, pounds, Australian, Canadian and US dollars, and Swiss francs.
Post
Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Senopati; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Tourist Information
Tourist Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-562000; Jl Malioboro 16; h8am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat; i)
Perhaps the most well-organised office of its kind in the country. Here is delightful, helpful staff, free maps and good transport information. It produces a number of publications (including a calendar of events and a great map), and staff can book any and all transport, as well as local attractions and performances.
There are also counters at the airport and on the eastern side of the Tugu train station.
Travel Agencies
Great Tours is best for sunrise tours, bus and minibus tickets, chartered transport and tours to Borobudur, Bromo and Ijen.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Yogyakarta has international connections to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, plus many domestic links.
Solo airport, 60km away, also has international and domestic flights.
Air AsiaAIRLINE
(%0274-5050 5088; www.airasia.com)
Flies to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta and Denpasar.
GarudaAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.garuda-indonesia.com)
Links Yogya with Balikpapan, Denpasar and Jakarta.
Lion Air/Wings AirAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.lionair.co.id)
Flies to Balikpapan, Banjarmasin, Denpasar, Makassar, Jakarta and Surabaya.
Sriwijaya AirAIRLINE
(www.sriwijayaair.co.id)
To Balikpapan, Jakarta and Surabaya.
Wings AirAIRLINE
(%021-6379 8000; www.lionair.co.id)
To Bandung and Surabaya.
Bus
Yogya’s main bus terminal, Giwangan, is 5km southeast of the city centre; bus 3B connects it with Tugu train station and Jl Malioboro. Buses run from Giwangan to points all over Java, and also to Bali. For long trips make sure you take a luxury bus. It’s cheaper to buy tickets at the bus terminal, but it’s less hassle to simply check fares and departures with the ticket agents along Jl Mangkubumi, Jl Sosrowijayan or Jl Prawirotaman. These agents can also arrange pick-up from your hotel.
To go to Prambanan (3600Rp) take a 1A city bus from Jl Malioboro. Buses to/from Borobudur use the Jombor terminal. To get there take a Transjogya bus 3A from Jl Malioboro to Jl Ahmad Dahlan, and change to a 2B for Jombor.
Door-to-door travel minibuses run to all major cities from Yogya. Sosrowijayan and Prawirotaman agents sell tickets. Prices are similar to air-conditioned buses. Journeys of more than four hours can be cramped – trains and buses offer more comfort. Due to traffic patterns, it's much faster to get to Solo by train.
You can also buy direct from the minibus companies, which include Rajawali Putra ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-583535; Jl Jenderal Sudirman 42), Rahayu ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-561322; Jl Diponegoro 9A) and Niki Vita Tour & Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0274-561884; Jl Diponegoro 25). Destinations served include Semarang (80,000Rp, four hours), Surabaya (90,000Rp) and Malang (110,000Rp). For Pangandaran (110,000Rp, eight hours), Estu Travel (%0274-668 4567; Jl Gampingan) has minibuses daily at 8am and 6.30pm.
Train
Centrally located, Yogya’s Tugu train station handles all business- and executive-class trains. Economy-class trains also depart from and arrive at Lempuyangan station, 1km to the east.
TRANSPORT FROM YOGYAKARTA
BUS
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Bandung Air-con 120,000 10 3 daily
Borobudur Normal 20,000 (bring small bills) 1½ every 30min
Denpasar Air-con 325,000 19 3 daily
Jakarta Normal/Air-con 200,000/260,000 12 10-12 daily between 3pm and 5pm
TRAIN
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Bandung 200,000-300,000 7-8¾ 6 daily
Sidareja (for Pangandaran) 150,000 3½-4 2 daily
Jakarta 300,000-450,000 7-9 6 daily
Malang 250,000-300,000 7 3 daily
Solo 6000-20,000 1 14 daily
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Yogya’s Adi Sucipto airport, 10km east of the centre, is very well connected to the city by public transport. Bus 1A (3600Rp) runs there from Jl Malioboro. Prameks trains between Yogya and Solo stop at Maguwo station, which is right by the airport as well. Rates for taxis from the airport to the city centre are fixed at 70,000Rp.
Becak
Yogyakarta has an oversupply of becak (cycle rickshaws); most drivers are quite pushy, but it can be a fun way to get around. Watch out for drivers who offer cheap hourly rates, unless you want to do the rounds of all the batik galleries that offer commission. A short trip is about 10,000Rp to 15,000Rp. To go from Jl Prawirotaman to Jl Malioboro costs around 25,000Rp.
Bicycle
Bikes cost about 30,000Rp a day from hotels. Always lock your bike.
Bus
Yogya's reliable bus system, TransJogja consists of modern air-conditioned buses running from 6am to 10pm on six routes around the city to as far away as Prambanan. Tickets cost 3600Rp per journey. TransJogja buses only stop at the designated bus shelters. Bus 1A is a very useful service, running from Jl Malioboro past the airport to Prambanan. TransJogja route maps are available at the tourist information centre.
Car & Motorcycle
Travel agencies on Jl Sosrowijayan and Jl Prawirotaman rent out cars with driver for trips in the Yogya region for 500,000Rp to 550,000Rp per day including petrol. Few drivers speak English, but it can still be an excellent way to explore the area. One reliable company is Jogja Trans. Motorbikes cost around 50,000Rp to 90,000Rp per day.
Taxi
Metered taxis are cheap, costing 10,000Rp to 30,000Rp for short trips. If you call any of the cab companies for a ride around town, the minimum fee is 25,000Rp. Citra Taxi (%0274-373737) is considered the most reliable. From Jl Prawirotaman to the airport, the fare is fixed at 70,000Rp.
Imogiri
A royal graveyard perched on a hilltop 20km south of Yogyakarta, Imogiri was first built by Sultan Agung in 1645 to serve as his own mausoleum. Since then it has become something of an A-list cemetery for royalty. There are three major courtyards – the central one contains the tombs of Sultan Agung and succeeding Mataram kings; the other two are dedicated to the sultans of Solo and Yogyakarta.
Pilgrims from across Central Java flock to the tomb of Sultan Agung (admission 1000Rp; h10am-1pm Sun-Mon, 1.30-4pm Fri). You're welcome to join them but you must don full Javanese court dress, which can be hired for a small fee.
It’s an impressive site, reached by a daunting flight of 345 steps. From the top of the stairway, a walkway circles the whole complex and leads to the summit, with a superb view over Yogyakarta to Gunung Merapi.
To get to Imogiri (10,000Rp, 40 minutes), take an angkot to Panggang and ask the conductor to let you off at the makam (graves).
Angkot and buses from Yogyakarta (5000Rp) stop at the car park, from where it is about 500m to the base of the hill and the start of the steps. Note that the only compulsory entry charge is payable when you sign the visitors’ book, inside the main compound.
WORTH A TRIP
BEACHES SOUTHWEST OF YOGYAKARTA
Southwest of Yogyakarta, the coastline consists of a stunning series of sandy cove beaches divided by volcanic stone headlands and pounded by the full force of the Indian Ocean. It was once an isolated corner of Java with few facilities,but electricity was finally extended all the way to shore in the last few years, with a growing footprint to match. Still, few foreign travellers make it here, and it's largely the domain of a local weekender crowd. Midweek, however, you will have it to yourself.
The scenery is sublime, and exploring the coastal road as it winds through rolling hills, past fields of peanuts and cassava, and taking turn-offs down dirt roads to empty, exposed bays makes a wonderful excursion from Yogyakarta. However, as the open sea is rough, swimming is only advisable in selected, sheltered spots. Also, you'll need your own wheels as there's no public transport. Each of the following beaches require a separate 10,000Rp entry fee, payable at gates set just up the road from the beach.
It's 65km from Yogya to Indrayanti Beach (also known as Pulang Syawal), a lovely sandy cove with a steep profile framed by giant boulders at the east end and views toward a series of spectacular golden sandy beaches to the west. The tiny ocean-facing Indrayanti (%0878 3962 5215; huts incl breakfast 350,000Rp, mains 15,000-60,000Rp) huts are well overpriced but seafood at the restaurant, with tables sunk in the sand, is quite good. If you wish to stay the night – and considering the scenery, you should – find Cemara Udang (%0823 2821 0384; Pantai Indriyanti; 400,000-500,000Rp ; a) at the west end of the beach. The small office downstairs is literally built into the rock wall across the road from the beach. Rooms on the top floor have the best view on this stretch of coast, toward the rising offshore rocks of Drini beach and all the way to Kukup, from the common porch. Sunsets are dreamy here. There can be a massive shore break at low tide so take care if you wish to wade into the shallows. The wooden, cottage-like rooms have nice beds, air-con and cold-water showers.
Heading west it's a short hop to horseshoe-shaped Sundak Barat with some sheltered swimming and then on to Krakal, which has a few scruffy warungs near the main car park. If you nip over to the east side of Krakal bay there's a great stretch of deserted sand and you can grab a meal at the good, sea-facing Rumah Makan Pantai Asmara (meals 20,000-40,000Rp).
Around 5km west of Indrayanti, Drini forms a pretty double crescent of beaches, separated by a large offshore islet that you can reach via a walkway. Next up is Sepanjang, a long slim beach, and then Kukup, the most touristy beach on this stretch, with an excess of souvenir stalls and warung. Still, you might want to try the peyek (seaweed crackers) for sale, and it does have three accommodation options, the best of which is Penginapan Kukup Indah (%0878 3966 5441; r 75,000-200,000Rp; a).
To head back to Yogyakarta, it's best to push on to Parangtritis. This is a sprawling, unattractive resort with a rubbish problem, geared at day-tripping city dwellers, but it does have bus service.
Buses from Yogyakarta’s Giwangan bus terminal, which pass down Jl Parangtritis at the end of Jl Prawirotaman, leave throughout the day for the one-hour journey (9000Rp). The last bus back from Parangtritis leaves at around 6pm.
Gunun
g Merapi
Few of Southeast Asia’s volcanoes are as evocative, or as destructive, as Gunung Merapi (Fire Mountain). Towering 2930m over Yogyakarta, Borobudur and Prambanan, this immense Fujiesque peak is a threatening, disturbingly close presence for thousands. Merapi has erupted dozens of times over the past century; the massive 2010 eruption killed 353 and forced the evacuation of 360,000 more.
It's offically Indonesia's most active volcano – quite an accolade in a nation with 127 active cones – and some observers have theorised it was responsible for the mysterious evacuation of Borobudur and the collapse of the old Mataram kingdom during the 11th century.
Merapi is revered and feared in equal measure. Every year, offerings from Yogya’s kraton are made to appease the mountain’s foul temper. Eruptions, however, have not put a stop to people living on the mountain. With a population density of 700 people per sq kilometre, Merapi supports hundreds of small communities.
The hill resort of Kaliurang, 25km north of Yogyakarta, is the main access point for views of Merapi. Yogyakarta travel agencies sell night trips for views of the lava flows – there are several good viewpoints – but you can also do this yourself. Take a bus to Kaliurang (10,000Rp, one hour) from the Giwangan terminal, get off at the Kaliurang Hill Resort, then catch one of the waiting ojek (10,000Rp) to the viewpoint of Kalu Aden, from where there’s a wonderful perspective of the lava action.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 22