In addition to its international flights, Bali is also a hub for domestic flights across the archipelago.
As of February 2015 departure tax is now included in all international and domestic airfares.
Bus
Mengwi bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) is 12km northwest of Denpasar, just off the main road to west Bali. Many long-distance buses to/from Denpasar's Ubung bus terminal stop here.
When travelling to/from south Bali, you can save time by using this terminal instead of Denpasar's. Metered taxis are available and fares should be 150,000Rp to 200,000Rp from Mengwi to various destinations in the south.
Ferry crossing to/from Bali is included in the services offered by numerous bus companies, many of which travel overnight to Java. It's advisable to buy tickets at least one day in advance from a travel agent or at the terminals in Denpasar (Ubung) or Mengwi. Note that flying can be as cheap as taking the bus.
Fares vary between operators; it's worth paying extra for a decent seat. All have air-con. Typical routes from Mengwi and Denpasar include Surabaya (150,000Rp, 12 hours), Yogyakarta (350,000Rp, 16 hours) and Jakarta (470,000Rp, 24 hours). You can also get buses from Singaraja in north Bali.
BALI WEBSITES
Coconuts Bali (http://bali.coconuts.co) Good source for local news, features and reviews.
InBali (www.inbali.org) Glossy site featuring articles, tips and restaurant reviews.
Bali.com (www.bali.com) Overview and practical info.
Bali Belly (www.balibelly.com) Access past editions of this excellent magazine online, which focuses on Bali youth subculture, surfing and skating.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/indonesia) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.
Sea
Ferries operate between Gilimanuk in western Bali and Ketapang in Java.
Bali is accessible by regular public ferry to Padangbai, Sanur and Amed. Fast boats for tourists serve the Gili Islands and Lombok.
Services to other islands in Indonesia are often in flux, although Pelni, the national shipping line, is reasonably reliable. It schedules large boats on long-distance runs throughout Indonesia.
For Bali, Pelni ships stop at the harbour in Benoa as part of their regular loops throughout Indonesia. Schedules and fares are found on the website. You can enquire and book at the Pelni ticket office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-763963; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Raya Kuta 299; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) in Tuban.
Train
There is no train service on Bali but the State Railway Company ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-227131; Jl Diponegoro 150/B4; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun) does have an office in Denpasar. From here buses leave for eastern Java, where they link with trains at Banyuwangi for Surabaya, Yogyakarta and Jakarta, among other destinations. Fares and times are comparable to the bus, but the air-conditioned trains are more comfortable, even in economy class. Note: Google Translate works well on the website.
8Getting Around
The best way to get around Bali is with your own transport. This gives you the flexibility to explore at will and allows you to reach many places that are otherwise inaccessible.
To/From the Airport
Fixed-price taxis operate from the official counter at the airport arrivals area. Costs depend on drop-off point; however, efforts may be made to charge you the high end of the range, so it pays to know the location of your hotel.
Destination Fare (Rp)
Candidasa 425,000
Canggu 225,000
Denpasar 125,000-175,000
Jimbaran 100,000-150,000
Kuta Beach 70,000-80,000
Legian 95,000
Nusa Dua 150,000
Sanur 150,000
Seminyak/Kerobokan 110,000-150,000
Ubud 300,000
Ulu Watu 200,000-225,000
Note if you have a surfboard, you’ll be charged at least 35,000Rp extra.
While metered Bluebird taxis aren't officially allowed to pick up passengers from the airport, they are allowed to drop off passengers. Hence another option is to chance your luck on the 3rd floor to see if there's a taxi waiting there.
Bemo
The bemo (a minibus or van with seats down each side) was once the dominant form of public transport in Bali. But widespread motorcycle ownership (which can be cheaper than daily bemo use) has caused the system to wither. Due to unreliable (or complete lack of) scheduling, it's uncommon to see visitors on bemos in Bali. You can certainly expect journeys to be lengthy, and you'll find that getting to many places is both time-consuming and inconvenient.
Bicycle
Increasingly, people are touring the island by sepeda (bicycle). Many visitors are also using bikes around towns and for day trips in Bali.
There are plenty of bicycles for rent in the tourist areas; these cost around 30,000Rp per day.
Boat
Boats of various sizes serve Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida from Sanur and Padangbai.
Bus/Tourist Shuttle
Tourist shuttles are the main mode of transport that independent travellers will use. Perama (%0361-751170; www.peramatour.com) has a near monopoly on this service in Bali. It has offices or agents in Kuta, Sanur, Ubud, Lovina, Padangbai and Candidasa, and at least one bus a day links these tourist centres. Fares are reasonable; shuttles are air-conditioned; and it's a good way to meet other travellers.
The public bus Trans-Sarbagita ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Imam Bonjol; fare 3500Rp; h5am-9pm) is suited more to locals; however, it's handy if you're heading along any of the following four routes: the bypass linking Sanur to Nusa Dua; Denpasar to Jimbaran; Tabanan to Bandara; or Mahendradata to Lebih via Sanur.
Car & Motorcycle
Car hire is easily arranged in tourist centres. A small jeep costs a negotiable 200,000Rp per day, with unlimited kilometres and very limited insurance. Nearly all vehicles have manual transmission. Petrol costs around 6500Rp per litre.
A much better option is to hire a car with a driver, which costs from 500,000Rp per day including fuel.
Renting motorbikes is a very popular means of getting around Bali, but think carefully before hiring one. It is dangerous, and every year visitors go home with lasting damage; this is no place to learn to ride. Helmet use is mandatory.
Motorbikes are easily hired, and cost around 50,000Rp a day, or less by the week. This should include minimal insurance for the motorcycle (probably with a US$100 excess), but not for additional passengers or property. Many have racks for surfboards.
Taxi
Metered taxis are common in south Bali and Denpasar (but not in Ubud). They are essential for getting around these areas and you can usually flag one down in busy areas. They're often a lot less hassle than haggling with drivers offering 'transport!'.
Taxis are fairly cheap: Kuta to Seminyak can be just 50,000Rp.
The best taxi company by far is Blue Bird Taxi (%0361-701111; www.bluebirdgroup.com), which uses blue vehicles with a light on the roof bearing a stylised bluebird. Watch out for fakes – there are many. Look for 'Blue Bird' over the windscreen and the phone number. Drivers speak reasonable English and use the meter at all times. Many expats will use no other firm. Blue Bird has a slick phone app that summons a taxi to your location. Flagfall is 7000Rp, and it's 5700Rp for each additional kilometre. Waiting time is 40,000Rp per hour.
Avoid any taxis where the driver won't use a meter, even after dark when they claim that only fixed fares apply.
Taxi scams include: lack of change, 'broken' meter, fare-raising detours, and offers for tours, massages, prostitutes etc.
South Bali
For many people south Bali is Bali. Chaotic Kuta and upscale Seminyak throb around the clock. In the south, the Bukit Peninsula is home to some of the island’s best hidden beaches, while in the east, Sanur follows the subdued beat of its reef-protected surf. Denpasar is a fascinating excursion into Balinese culture.
Kuta & Legian
%0361
Loud, frenetic and br
ash are just some of the adjectives commonly used to describe Kuta and Legian, the centre of mass tourism in Bali. Only a couple of decades ago, local hotels tacked their signs up to palm trees. Amid the wall-to-wall cacophony today, such an image seems as foreign as the thought that the area was once rice fields. Parts are just plain ugly, like the unsightly strips that wend their way inland from the beach.
Although this is often the first place many visitors hit in Bali, the region is not for everyone. Kuta has narrow lanes jammed with cheap cafes, surf shops, incessant motorbikes and an uncountable number of T-shirt vendors. Shiny air-conditioned malls and chain hotels are indicative of its rapid commercialisation.
Kuta has Bali's most raucous clubs, and you can still find a simple room for 150,000Rp in dozens of hotels. Legian appeals to a slightly older crowd (some jest it's where fans of Kuta go after they're married). It is equally tacky and has a long row of family-friendly hotels close to the beach. Tuban is more sleepy than Kuta and Legian, but has a higher percentage of visitors on package holidays.
1Sights
The real sights here are, of course, the beaches.
oKuta BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Tourism in Bali began here and is there any question why? Low-key hawkers will sell you soft drinks and beer, snacks and other treats, and you can rent surfboards, lounge chairs and umbrellas (negotiable at 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp) or just crash on the sand. The sunsets here are legendary.
oLegian BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
An extension of Kuta Beach to the south, Legian Beach is quieter thanks to the lack of a raucous road next to the sand and fewer people.
Double Six BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The beach becomes less crowded as you go north from Legian until very popular Double Six Beach, which is alive with pick-up games of football and volleyball all day long. It's a good place to meet locals.
Tuban BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
Tuban's beach is a mixed bag. There are wide and mellow stretches of sand to the south but near the Discovery Mall it disappears entirely.
Memorial WallMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Legian)
This memorial wall reflects the international scope of the 2002 bombings, and people from many countries pay their respects. Listing the names of the 202 known victims, including 88 Australians and 35 Indonesians, it is starting to look just a touch faded. Across the street, a parking lot is all that is left of the destroyed Sari Club ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).
Kuta & Legian
1Top Sights
1Kuta BeachC7
2Legian BeachB3
1Sights
3Double Six BeachA1
4Memorial WallD6
5Site of Sari ClubD6
2Activities, Courses & Tours
6Bali Sea Turtle SocietyC8
7Jamu Traditional SpaC5
8Pro Surf SchoolC5
9Rip Curl School of SurfA1
4Sleeping
10Double-SixA1
11Funky Monkey HostelD7
12Hotel Ayu Lili GardenD5
13IslandC2
14Kayun Hostel DowntownD6
15Love Fashion HotelD5
16Sari Beach HotelB3
17StonesC5
5Eating
18Fat ChowC6
19MozzarellaB2
20Poppies RestaurantD7
21SalekoC1
22Stakz Bar & GrillD6
23TakeD4
24Warung Asia Thai FoodB1
6Drinking & Nightlife
25BountyD7
Double-Six RooftopA1
Infamy@The StonesC5
26Sky Garden LoungeD6
27Twice BarD6
7Shopping
28Luke StuderE3
29Surfer GirlE7
2Activities
From Kuta you can easily go surfing, diving, fishing or rafting anywhere in the southern part of Bali and still be back for the start of happy hour at sunset.
Spas have proliferated, especially in hotels.
Jamu Traditional SpaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-752520 ext 165; www.jamutraditionalspa.com; Jl Pantai Kuta, Alam Kul Kul; massage from 600,000Rp; h9am-7pm)
In serene surrounds at a resort hotel you can enjoy massage in rooms that open onto a pretty garden courtyard. If you’ve ever wanted to be part of a fruit cocktail, here’s your chance – treatments involve tropical nuts, coconuts, papayas and more, often in fragrant baths.
Bali Sea Turtle SocietyTURTLE HATCHERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.baliseaturtle.org; Kuta Beach; h4.30pm Apr-Oct)
Lend a hand in re-releasing turtle hatchlings into the ocean from Kuta Beach around 4.30pm from April to October. The release is organised by the Bali Sea Turtle Society, a conservation group doing great work in protecting olive ridley turtles. Join the queue to collect your baby turtle, pay a small donation, and join the group to release them.
Waterbom ParkWATER PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-755676; www.waterbom-bali.com; Jl Kartika Plaza; adult/child 490,000/325,000Rp; h9am-6pm)
This watery amusement park covers 3.5 hectares of landscaped tropical gardens. It has assorted water slides (21 in total), swimming pools, a FlowRider surf machine, a supervised park for children under five years old, and a ‘lazy river’ ride. Other indulgences include a food court, a bar and a spa.
SURFING IN BALI
Bali's legendary breaks are found right around the south side of the island. There’s a large infrastructure of schools, board-hire places, cheap surfer accommodation and more that caters to the crowds.
Here are six famous spots you won’t want to miss:
Kuta Beach Where surfing came to Asia. Long, steady breaks mean this can be a good place for beginners.
Echo Beach Northwest of Kerobokan; there's a good surfer scene here, including cafes, board rental and more.
Ulu Watu Some of the largest – and most famous – sets in Bali. It featured in legendary surf movie Morning of the Earth.
Pantai Medewi Famous point break with a ride right into a river mouth.
Pantai Keramas This right-hander fast reef break is home to Bali's main surf event and has night surfing under floodlights.
Nusa Lembongan The island is a mellow scene for surfers and nonsurfers alike. The breaks are accessible from accommodations.
Magic Seaweed (www.magicseaweed.com) and Bali Waves (www.baliwaves.com) are both good resources for surf reports, forecasts and tips.
Stalls on or near the beach hire out surfboards and boogie boards. In Kuta and around there are plenty of stores selling new and used boards; many can repair dings.
Ideal for beginners, Pro Surf School ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-751200; www.prosurfschool.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; lessons from €45) is right across from the classic stretch of Kuta Beach. Facilities include semiprivate lesson areas and a hostel (dorms from €15). Rip Curl School of Surf ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-735858; www.ripcurlschoolofsurf.com; Jl Arjuna; lessons from 700,000Rp) offers classes for beginners and experts alike.
Surf camps have become all the rage in south Bali, and offer packages for surf lessons and accommodation. The Green Room ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-738894; www.thegreenroombali.com; Gang Puri Kubu 63B; dm incl breakfast from €20; aWs) in Seminyak is very popular.
The World Surf League pro circuit comes to Bali with the Kommune Bali Pro held at Keramas in May, and the Quiksilver Uluwatu Challenge in August. The Rip Curl Cup (http://live.ripcurl.com/ripcurlcup) at Padang Padang in August is another pro event.
4Sleeping
Wandering the gang (alleys) looking for a cheap room is a rite of passage for many visitors. Small and family-run options are still numerous even as chains and five-star resorts crowd in.
oHotel Ayu Lili GardenHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-750557; [email protected]; off Jl Lebak Bene; r with fan/air-con from 175,000/226,000Rp; as)
In a relatively quiet area
near the beach, this vintage family-run hotel has 22 bungalow-style rooms. Standards are high and for more dosh you can add amenities such as a fridge.
Funky Monkey HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 4636 4386; www.funkymonkeybali.com; Poppies Lane 1; dm 60,000-120,000Rp, r 300,000Rp; aWs)
In a lovely location in the back alleys of Kuta, close to Poppies Restaurant, this homely and intimate Dutch-run hostel is a top place to meet fellow travellers. There's a small pool, free pancakes and cheap beer. The cheaper dorms are outdoor bunks.
Kayun Hostel DowntownHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-758442; www.kayun-downtown.com; Jl Legian; dm incl breakfast from 190,000Rp; aWs)
In the heart of Kuta, close to all the nightlife, this hostel is the place to be if you're here to party. Set in an elegant colonial building, the place has a sense of style and there's a small plunge pool. Dorm rooms have between four and 20 beds, with curtains for privacy.
IslandGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-762722; www.theislandhotelbali.com; Gang Abdi; dm/r incl breakfast from 250,000/500,000Rp; aiWs)
One of Bali's few flashpacker options, Island is a real find – literally. Hidden in the attractive maze of tiny lanes west of Jl Legian, this stylish place with a sparkling pool lies at the confluence of Gang 19, 21 and Abdi. It has a deluxe dorm room with eight beds.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 39