oMassimoITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-288942; www.massimobali.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 206; meals 80,000-200,000Rp; h11am-11pm)
The interior is like an open-air Milan cafe; the outside is like a Balinese garden – it's a combo that goes together like spaghetti and meatballs. Pasta, pizza and more are prepared with authentic Italian flair. No time for a meal? Nab some gelato from the counter up the front.
Manik OrganikHEALTH FOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0821 4416 8228; www.manikorganikbali.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 85; meals from 55,000Rp; h9am-11pm; v)S
Trees shade the serene terrace at this creative and healthful cafe that smells of lemongrass. Vegetarians and raw-food enthusiasts are well cared for, but there are also meaty dishes made with free-range chicken and the like. Smoothies include the fortifying ‘immune tonic’.
Char MingASIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-288029; www.charming-bali.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 97; meals 100,000-200,000Rp; h5-11pm)
Asian fusion with a French accent. A daily menu board lists the fresh seafood available for grilling. Look for regional dishes, many with modern flair. The highly stylised location features lush plantings and carved-wood details from vintage Javanese and Balinese structures.
Three Monkeys CafeASIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-286002; www.threemonkeyscafebali.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan; meals 62,000-200,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W)
This branch of the splendid Ubud original is no mere knock-off. The creative menu has homemade pastas, wood-oven lamb rack and pan-Asian creations. Healthy salads and juices are also recommended.
KalimantanBAR
(Borneo Bob's; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-289291; Jl Pantai Sindhu 11; mains from 40,000Rp; h7.30am-11pm)
This veteran boozer has an old South Pacific thatched charm and is one of several casual bars on this street. Enjoy cheap drinks under the palms in the large, shady garden. The Mexican-style food features homegrown chilli peppers.
7Shopping
Sanur is no shopping haven like Seminyak, but a few designers from there are opening branches here.
A-KreaCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-286101; Jl Danau Tamblingan 51; h9am-9pm)
An excellent spot for souvenirs, A-Krea has a range of items designed and made in Bali in its attractive store. Clothes, accessories, homewares and more are all handmade.
Ganesha BookshopBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ganeshabooksbali.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 42; h8am-9pm)
A branch of Bali’s best bookshop for serious readers.
8Information
There are numerous ATMs and banks along Jl Danau Tamblingan.
8Getting There & Away
Bemo
Green bemos go along Jl Hang Tuah to the Kereneng Bemo Terminal in Denpasar (7000Rp).
Boat
Myriad fast boats ( GOOGLE MAP ) to Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Penida, Lombok and the Gili Islands depart from a strip of beach south of Jl Hang Tuah. None of these services uses a dock: be prepared to wade to the boat. Note that most companies offer free hotel pickup and drop-off from destinations between Kuta and Ubud.
Recommended fast-boat companies include Rocky Fast Cruises ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-283624; www.rockyfastcruise.com; Jl Hang Tuah 41; h8am-8pm) to Nusa Lembongan (one way/return US$30/50, 30 minutes, four daily), and Scoot ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-285522; www.scootcruise.com; Jl Hang Tuah; h8am-8pm) to Nusa Lembongan (one way/return 400,000/600,000Rp, 30 minutes, four daily), and to Sengigi and the Gilis (one way 700,000Rp, two hours, departing 9.30am) on Lombok.
Regular public boats ( GOOGLE MAP ) head to Nusa Lembongan: a slow boat (100,000Rp, 1½ hours) at 10.30am or fast boats (175,000Rp, 30 minutes, four daily). A boat to Nusa Penida (175,000Rp, 35 minutes) departs at 7am.
Tourist Shuttle Bus
The Perama office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-285592; www.peramatour.com; Jl Hang Tuah 39; h7am-10pm) is at Warung Pojok at the northern end of town. Tourist shuttle destinations include Kuta (35,000Rp, 45 minutes), Ubud (50,000Rp, one hour), Padangbai (75,000Rp, two hours) and Lovina (125,000Rp, four hours).
8Getting Around
Taxis from the airport cartel cost 150,000Rp.
Bemos go up and down Jl Danau Tamblingan and Jl Danau Poso for 5000Rp, offering a greener way to shuttle about the strip than a taxi.
Denpasar
%0361
Sprawling, hectic and ever-growing, Bali's capital has been the focus of a lot of the island's growth and wealth over the last five decades. It can seem a daunting and chaotic place, but spend a little time on its tree-lined streets in the relatively affluent government and business district of Renon and you'll discover a more genteel side.
Denpasar might not be a tropical paradise, but it's as much a part of 'the real Bali' as the rice paddies and clifftop temples. This is the hub of the island for 800,000 locals and here you will find their shopping malls and parks. Most enticing, however, is the growing range of authentic and tasty restaurants and cafes aimed at the burgeoning middle class. You'll also want to sample Denpasar's markets, its important museum and its purely modern Balinese vibe.
Denpasar
1Top Sights
1Bajra Sandhi MonumentF6
2Museum Negeri Propinsi BaliC3
1Sights
3Pura JagatnathaC3
4Sleeping
4Nakula Familiar InnB2
5Eating
5Café TeduhB5
6Cak AsmoD6
7Warung WardaniB2
7Shopping
8Pasar BadungA3
1Sights
oMuseum Negeri Propinsi BaliMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-222680; adult/child 20,000/10,000Rp; h8am-4pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-12.30pm Fri)
Think of this as the British Museum or the Smithsonian of Balinese culture. It's all here, but unlike those world-class institutions, you have to work at sorting it out; the museum could use a dose of curatorial energy. Most displays are labelled in English. The museum comprises several buildings and pavilions, including many examples of Balinese architecture, housing prehistoric pieces, traditional artefacts, Barong (mythical lion-dog creatures), ceremonial objects and rich displays of textiles.
Pura JagatnathaHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Surapati)F
The state temple, built in 1953, is dedicated to the supreme god, Sanghyang Widi. Part of its significance is its statement of monotheism. Although the Balinese recognise many gods, the belief in one supreme god (who can have many manifestations) brings Balinese Hinduism into conformity with the first principle of Pancasila – the ‘Belief in One God’.
oBajra Sandhi MonumentMONUMENT
(Monument to the Struggle of the People of Bali; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-264517; Jl Raya Puputan, Renon; adult/child 20,000/10,000Rp; h9am-6pm)
The centrepiece to a popular park, this huge monument is as big as its name. Inside the vaguely Borobudur-like structure are dioramas tracing Bali’s history. Note that in the portrayal of the 1906 battle with the Dutch, the King of Badung is literally a sitting target. Take the spiral stairs to the top for 360-degree views.
zFestivals & Events
oBali Arts FestivalPERFORMING ARTS
(www.baliartsfestival.com; Taman Wedhi Budaya; hmid-Jun–mid-Jul)
This annual festival, based at the Taman Wedhi Budaya arts centre, is an easy way to see a wide variety of traditional dance, music and crafts. The productions of the Ramayana and Mahabharata ballets are grand, and the opening ceremony and parade in Denpasar are spectacles. Tickets are usually available before performances; schedules are available online and at the Denpasar tourist office.
4Sleeping
Spending a night in Denpasar will appeal to those seeking a more localised cultural experience outside the tourist areas.
oNakula Familiar InnGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-226446; www.nakulafamiliarinn.com; Jl Nakula 4; s with fan/air-con 175,000/225,000Rp, d 200,000/250,000Rp; aW)
The
eight rooms at this sprightly urban family compound, a longtime traveller favourite, are clean and have small balconies. There is a nice courtyard and cafe in the middle. Tegal–Kereneng bemos go along Jl Nakula.
5Eating & Drinking
Denpasar has the island's best range of Indonesian and Balinese food. Savvy locals and expats each have their own favourite warungs and restaurants.
oCafé TeduhINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-221631; off Jl Diponegoro; mains 12,000-23,000Rp; h10am-10pm; W)
A little oasis hidden down a tiny lane, with hanging orchids, trees, flowers and ponds with fountains. Try ayam dabu-dabu (grilled chicken with chilli paste, tomatoes, shallots, lemongrass and spices) or nasi bakar cumi hitam (rice and marinated squid wrapped in banana leaf and grilled).
Cak AsmoINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Tukad Gangga; meals from 15,000Rp; h9.30am-10.30pm)
Join the government workers and students from the nearby university for superb dishes cooked to order in the bustling kitchen. Order the buttery and crispy cumi cumi (calamari) battered in telor asin (a heavenly mixture of eggs and garlic). Fruity ice drinks are a cooling treat. An English-language menu makes ordering a breeze. It's halal, so there's no alcohol.
Warung WardaniINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-224398; Jl Yudistira 2; nasi campur from 35,000Rp; h8am-4pm)
Don't be decieved by the small dining room at the entrance: there's another vastly larger one out the back. The top-notch nasi campur (rice with side dishes) draws in the masses for lunch daily.
7Shopping
oPasar BadungMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Gajah Mada; h6am-5pm)
Bali’s largest food market is busy in the mornings and evenings; it’s a great place to browse and bargain. You’ll find produce and food from all over the island. Allow yourself to get lost here and revel in the range of fruits and spices on offer. The shops lining the side streets of the market are famous for textiles.
8Information
All major Indonesian banks have offices in Denpasar, and most have ATMs. Several are on Jl Gajah Mada, near the corner of Jl Arjuna.
Main Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-223565; Jl Raya Puptuan; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat)
Your best option for unusual postal needs. Has a photocopy centre and ATMs.
RSUP Sanglah HospitalHOSPITAL
(Rumah Sakit Umum Propinsi Sanglah; GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-227911; www.sanglahhospitalbali.com; Jl Diponegoro; h24hr)
The city's general hospital has English-speaking staff and an ER. It's the best hospital on the island, although standards are not the same as those in developed countries. It has a special wing for well-insured foreigners, Paviliun Amerta Wing International ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-740 5474, 0361-257477).
8Getting There & Away
Denpasar is a hub of public transport in Bali. You'll find buses and minibuses bound for all corners of the island.
Bemo
With most locals now preferring to travel by motorbike, note that the bemo network is spluttering. The total lack of schedules, and long waiting times, mean it's generally not suitable for tourists.
The terminals for transport around Bali are Ubung, Batubulan and Tegal, while Kereneng serves destinations in and around Denpasar. Each terminal has regular bemo connections to the other terminals in Denpasar for 7000Rp.
Fares are approximate and at times completely subjective. Drivers often try to charge nonlocals at least 25% more.
Ubung
Well north of town, on the road to Gilimanuk, the Ubung Bus & Bemo Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) is the hub for northern and western Bali. It has long-distance buses in addition to those serving the bus terminal 12km northwest in Mengwi.
Destination Fare
Gilimanuk (for the ferry to Java) 30,000Rp
Mengwi bus terminal 15,000Rp
Munduk 22,000Rp
Singaraja (via Pupuan or Bedugul) 25,000Rp
Batubulan
Located a very inconvenient 6km northeast of Denpasar on a road to Ubud, the Batubulan Bus & Bemo Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) is for destinations in eastern and central Bali.
Destination Fare
Amlapura 25,000Rp
Padangbai (for the Lombok ferry) 18,000Rp
Sanur 7000Rp
Ubud 13,000Rp
Tegal
On the western side of town on Jl Iman Bonjol, Tegal Bemo Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) is the terminal for Kuta and the Bukit Peninsula.
Destination Fare
Airport 15,000Rp
Jimbaran 17,000Rp
Kuta 13,000Rp
Gunung Agung
This terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Gunung Agung), at the northwestern corner of town (look for orange bemos), has bemos to Kerobokan and Canggu (10,000Rp).
Kereneng
East of the town centre, Kereneng Bemo Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) has bemos to Sanur (7000Rp).
Wangaya
Near the centre of town, this small terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) is the departure point for bemo services to northern Denpasar and the outlying Ubung Bus and Bemo Terminal (8000Rp).
8Getting Around
Blue Bird TaxiTAXI
(%0361-701111; www.bluebirdgroup.com)
Nusa Lembongan & Islands
Look towards the open ocean southeast of Bali and the hazy bulk of Nusa Penida dominates the view. But for many visitors the real focus is Nusa Lembongan, which lurks in the shadow of its vastly larger neighbour. It offers amazing diving, languorous beaches, great surfing and the kind of laid-back vibe travellers cherish.
Once ignored, Nusa Penida is now attracting visitors, but its dramatic vistas and unchanged village life are still yours to explore. Tiny Nusa Ceningan huddles between the larger islands. It's a quick and popular jaunt from Lembongan.
The main cash crop here has been seaweed, although the big harvest now comes on two legs.
Nusa Lembongan
%0366
Once the domain of shack-staying surfers, Nusa Lembongan has hit the big time. Yes, you can still get a simple room with a view of the surf breaks and the gorgeous sunsets, but now you can also stay in a boutique hotel and have a fabulous meal. But even as Nusa Lembongan grows in popularity each year, it remains a mellow place.
Nusa Lembongan
1Sights
1Pantai Tanjung SanghyangA3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
2Bali Diving AcademyC2
3Bounty PontoonA3
4LacerationsC1
5PlaygroundsC2
6ShipwrecksC1
World DivingC2
4Sleeping
7Alam Nusa HutsA3
8Batu KarangC3
9Indiana KenangaD1
10Pemedal BeachD1
11Pondok BarunaC2
12Pondok Baruna FrangipaniD1
13Ware-WareC3
5Eating
14Deck Cafe & BarC3
15Hai Bar & GrillB3
1Sights
Pantai Tanjung SanghyangBEACH
(Mushroom Bay; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This beautiful bay, unofficially named Mushroom Bay after the mushroom corals offshore, has a crescent of bright white beach. By day, the tranquillity can be disturbed by banana-boat riders or parasailers. At other hours, this is a beach of dreams.
The most interesting way to get here from Jungutbatu is to walk along the trail that starts from the southern end of the main beach and follows the coastline for a kilometre or so. Alternatively, get a boat from Jungutbatu.
Dream BeachBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
Down a little track on the south side of the island, this 150m crescent of white sand has pounding surf and a cute little cafe.
2Activities
Most accommodation will rent bicycles for 30,000Rp per day, surfboards for 50,000Rp and motorbikes for 50,000Rp per day.
Surfing
Surfing here is best in the dry season (from April to September), when the winds come from the
southeast. It's definitely not a place for beginners, though, and can be dangerous even for experts. There are three main breaks on the reef, all aptly named. From north to south are Shipwrecks ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Lacerations ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Playgrounds ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). If you're staying nearby, you can paddle directly out to whichever of the three is closest; otherwise it's better to hire a boat. Prices for boats are negotiable, from about 30,000Rp to 50,000Rp for a one-way trip. You tell the boat owner when to return for you.
Note you can only surf these breaks at mid- or high tide; it's too shallow at low tide.
A fourth break – Racecourses – sometimes emerges south of Shipwrecks.
Diving
You'll have plenty of choice for diving around Nusa Lembongan and the islands.
World DivingDIVING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 390 0686; www.world-diving.com; Jungutbatu Beach; 2 dives excl equipment from 1,200,000Rp, open-water course 5,500,000Rp)
World Diving, based at Pondok Baruna, is very well regarded. It offers a complete range of courses, plus diving trips to dive sites all around the three islands. Equipment is first-rate.
Bali Diving AcademyDIVING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-270252; www.scubali.com; Bungalow Number 7; 2 dives excl equipment US$79, PADI US$415)
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 45