1Top Sights
1Agung Rai Museum of ArtD6
2Neka Art MuseumC1
1Sights
3Blanco Renaissance MuseumC3
4Museum RudanaF7
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Bali Bird WalksC3
6Bali Botanica Day SpaC1
4Sleeping
7Alam IndahC6
8Bali Asli LodgeE2
9Hotel TjampuhanC3
10Ketut's PlaceE2
11Mandapa Ritz CarltonA1
12Santra PutraB3
13Sayan TerraceA2
14ShiftB3
15Swasti Eco CottagesC6
16Tegal SariD6
17Ubud Sari Health ResortD2
18Villa NirvanaA3
19Wapa di UmeE1
20Warwick Ibah Luxury VillasC3
5Eating
AlchemyB3
21Bintang SupermarketB2
22ElementC3
23ElephantC2
24MozaicB1
25Sari OrganikC2
26Yellow Flower CafeB3
3Entertainment
27Arma Open StageD6
7Shopping
28Goddess on the Go!D6
RumbleC3
1Sights
oMuseum Puri LukisanMUSEUM
(Museum of Fine Arts; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975136; www.museumpurilukisan.com; off Jl Raya Ubud; adult/child incl drink 85,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm)
It was in Ubud that the modern Balinese art movement started, when artists first began to abandon purely religious themes and court subjects for scenes of everyday life. This museum displays fine examples of all schools of Balinese art, and all are well labelled in English. It was set up by Rudolf Bonnet, with Cokorda Gede Agung Sukawati (a prince of Ubud’s royal family) and Walter Spies.
The East Building to the right upon entry has a collection of early works from Ubud and surrounding villages. These include examples of classical 16th-century cloth wayang-style paintings (art influenced by shadow puppetry). The North Building features fine ink drawings by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad and paintings by Pita Maha artists. Notice the level of detail in Lempad’s The Dream of Dharmawangsa. Classic works from the 1930s heyday of expats are also here. The West Building has vibrant postwar modern art by Balinese painters, while the South Building is used for special exhibitions.
The museum has a good bookshop and a cafe. The lush, garden-like grounds alone are worth a visit.
Ubud PalacePALACE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Raya Ubud & Jl Suweta; h8am-7pm)F
The palace and its temple, Puri Saren Agung ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Raya Ubud & Jl Suweta), share a space in the heart of Ubud. The compound was mostly built after the 1917 earthquake and the local royal family still lives here. You can wander around most of the large compound and explore the many traditional, though not excessively ornate, buildings.
Take time to appreciate the stone carvings, many by noted local artists such as I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. On many nights you can watch a dance performance here.
Just north, Pura Marajan Agung ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Suweta) has one of the finest gates you'll find and is the private temple for the royal family. The compound across from the palace has a magnificent banyan tree, and is also used as a residence for the family.
Pura Desa UbudHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)F
The main temple for the Ubud community. It is often closed but comes alive for ceremonies.
oPura Taman SaraswatiHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Ubud)F
Waters from the temple at the rear of this site feed the pond in the front, which overflows with pretty lotus blossoms. There are carvings that honour Dewi Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom and the arts, who has clearly given her blessing to Ubud. There are regular dance performances by night.
oNeka Art MuseumGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975074; www.museumneka.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; adult/child 50,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
The creation of Suteja Neka, a private collector and dealer in Balinese art, Neka Art Museum has an excellent and diverse collection. It's a good place to learn about the development of painting in Bali. You can get an overview of the myriad local painting styles in the Balinese Painting Hall. Look for the wayang works.
The Arie Smit Pavilion features Smit’s works on the upper level, and examples of the Young Artist school, which he inspired, on the lower level. Look for the Bruegel-like The Wedding Ceremony by I Nyoman Tjarka.
The Lempad Pavilion houses Bali’s largest collection of works by the master I Gusti Nyoman Lempad.
The Contemporary Indonesian Art Hall has paintings by artists from other parts of Indonesia, including stunning works by Affandi. The upper floor of the East-West Art Annexe is devoted to the work of foreign artists, such as Louise Koke, Miguel Covarrubias, Rudolf Bonnet, Han Snel, Donald Friend and Antonio Blanco.
The temporary exhibition hall has changing displays, while the Photography Archive Centre features black-and-white photography of Bali in the early 1930s and '40s. Head upstairs in the lobby to see the large collection of ceremonial kris (daggers).
oAgung Rai Museum of ArtGALLERY
(ARMA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976659; www.armabali.com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; adult/child incl drink 60,000Rp/free; h9am-6pm, Balinese dancing 3-5pm Mon-Fri, classes 10am Sun)
Founded by art patron Agung Rai as an art museum, cultural centre, botanical gardens and hotel, the impressive ARMA features a world-class collection of Balinese, Indonesian and European artists. The collection is well labelled in English. Exhibits include classical Kamasan paintings, Batuan-style work from the 1930s and '40s, and works by Lempad, Affandi, Sadali, Hofker, Bonnet and Le Mayeur. The museum is housed in several traditional buildings set in gardens with water coursing through channels.
It's fun to visit ARMA when local children practise Balinese dancing and during gamelan practice.
Museum RudanaGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975779; www.museumrudana.com; Jl Raya Mas; admission incl drink & souvenir 100,000Rp; h9.30am-5pm)
This imposing museum overlooking rice fields is the creation of local politician and art-lover Nyoman Rudana and his wife, Ni Wayan Olasthini. The three floors contain more than 400 traditional paintings, including a calendar dated to the 1840s, some Lempad drawings and more-modern pieces. The museum is beside the Rudana Gallery, which has a large selection of paintings for sale. Photography is prohibited.
Blanco Renaissance MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975502; www.blancomuseum.com; Jl Raya Campuan; adult/child 80,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm)
The picture of Antonio Blanco (1912–99) mugging with Michael Jackson says it all. His surreal palatial neo-renaissance home and namesake museum captures the artist’s theatrical spirit. Blanco came to Bali from Spain via the Philippines. Playing the role of an eccentric artist à la Dalí, he is known for his expressionist art and illustrated poetry that incorporates a mix of styles and mediums. Enjoy the waterfall and exotic birds on the way in, and good views over the river.
Neka GalleryGALLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975034; Jl Raya Ubud; h8am-5pm)F
Operated by Suteja Neka since 1966, the low-key Neka Gallery is a separate entity from the other gallery bearing Neka's name, Neka Art Museum. It has an extensive selection from all the schools of Balinese art, as well as works by European residents, such as the renowned Arie Smit.
Central Ubud
1Top Sights
1Museum Puri LukisanB2
2Pura Taman SaraswatiC2
3Sacred Monkey Forest SanctuaryB8
1Sights
4Neka GalleryE3
5Pura Dalem AgungA8
6Pura Desa UbudC2
7Pura Marajan AgungC2
Puri Saren AgungC2
8Ubud PalaceC2
2Activities, Courses & Tours
9Casa Luna Cooking SchoolA4
Nirvana Batik CourseD3
1
0Radiantly AliveE4
11Taksu SpaD5
12Ubud Scooter RentalD3
13Yoga BarnD8
4Sleeping
14BiangsF5
15d'Rompok HouseD4
16Eka's HomestayD2
17Han Snel Siti BungalowsC1
18Happy Mango TreeA4
19Nirvana PensionD3
20Oka Wati HotelB3
Puri Saren AgungC2
5Eating
21Bali BudaE3
22BudaMartE3
23Casa LunaB2
24Earth Cafe & MarketD5
25Fair Warung BaléD3
26Gelato SecretsD3
27Gelato SecretsC3
28Hujon LocaleD2
Il GiardinoC1
29Juice Ja CafeC4
30LocavoreC4
31Locavore to GoD4
32Siti's Warung Little IndiaE5
33Three MonkeysB5
34Tutmak CafeC4
35Waroeng BernadetteD4
36Warung Ibu OkaC2
37Warung SopaD4
38WatercressC5
6Drinking & Nightlife
39Coffee Studio SenimanD2
40CP LoungeC4
41Melting PotD8
3Entertainment
42Oka KartiniF3
43Pura Dalem UbudA1
Pura Taman SaraswatiC2
Ubud PalaceC2
7Shopping
44AshitabaD6
45Ganesha BookshopE3
46KevalaD4
47KouC3
48Kou CuisineC3
49MoariE3
50Rio Helmi Gallery & CafeC2
51Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Arts CenterC1
52Ubud MarketC2
2Activities
Ubud has established itself in recent years as one of the best places in Southeast Asia to practise yoga. All forms of yoga are on offer and for all levels.
It also brims with salons and spas, where you can heal, pamper, rejuvenate or otherwise focus on your personal needs, both physical and mental.
White-Water Rafting
The nearby Sungai Ayung is the most popular river in Bali for white-water rafting. Bali Adventure Tours (%0361-721480; www.baliadventuretours.com; rafting trips adult/child from $79/52) and Bio (%0361-270949; www.bioadventurer.com; adult/child from US$79/65) are two reputable operators.
Yoga & Wellness
Yoga BarnYOGA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971236; www.theyogabarn.com; off Jl Raya Pengosekan; classes from 120,000Rp; h7am-8pm)
The chakra for the yoga revolution in Ubud, the Yoga Barn sits in its own lotus position amid trees back near a river valley. The name exactly describes what you’ll find: a huge range of classes in yoga, Pilates, dance and life-affirming offshoots, held throughout the week.
Radiantly AliveYOGA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-978055; www.radiantlyalive.com; Jl Jembawan 3; per class/day/week 140,000/170,000/550,000Rp)
This school will appeal to those looking for an intimate space, and offers a mix of drop-in and long-term yoga classes in a number of disciplines.
oBali Botanica Day SpaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-976739; www.balibotanica.com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; massage from 155,000Rp; h9am-9pm)
Set beautifully on a lush hillside past little fields of rice and ducks, this spa offers a range of treatments, including Ayurvedic. The herbal massage is popular. Transport is provided if needed.
Taksu SpaSPA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-479 2525; www.taksuspa.com; Jl Goutama; massage from 375,000Rp; h9am-9pm; W)
Somewhat hidden yet still in the heart of Ubud, Taksu has a long and rather lavish menu of treatments, as well as a strong focus on yoga. There are private rooms for couples massages, a healthy cafe and a range of classes.
DON'T MISS
UBUD MONKEY FOREST
One of Ubud's most famous sights (or should that be infamous) is the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-971304; www.monkeyforestubud.com; Monkey Forest Rd; adult/child 30,000/20,000Rp; h8.30am-6pm). It's a cool and dense swathe of jungle inhabited by a band of grey-haired and greedy long-tailed Balinese macaques. They are nothing like the innocent-looking doe-eyed monkeys on the brochures. Monkeys keep a keen eye on passing tourists in hope of handouts (or an opportunity to help themselves). Don’t feed these creatures; avoid eye contact and showing your teeth, including smiling, which is interpreted as a sign of aggression.
The forest sanctuary houses three holy temples. The interesting Pura Dalem Agung ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) has a real Indiana Jones feel to it; the entrance to the inner temple features Rangda figures devouring children.
You can enter the monkey forest through one of three gates: the main one at the southern end of Monkey Forest Rd; from 100m further east, near the car park; or from the southern side, on the lane from Nyuhkuning.
CCourses
Ubud is the perfect place to develop your artistic or language skills, or learn about Balinese culture and cuisine.
oCasa Luna Cooking SchoolCOOKING COURSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-973282; www.casalunabali.com; Honeymoon Guesthouse, Jl Bisma; classes from 400,000Rp)
Regular cooking courses are offered at Honeymoon Guesthouse and/or Casa Luna restaurant ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-977409; www.casalunabali.com; Jl Raya Ubud; meals from 50,000Rp; h8am-10pm). Half-day courses cover ingredients, cooking techniques and the cultural background of the Balinese kitchen (note, not all courses include a visit to the market). Tours are also offered, including a good one to the Gianyar night market or to a Kintamani coffee plantation.
Nirvana Batik CourseARTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975415; www.nirvanaku.com; Nirvana Pension, Jl Goutama 10; classes from 480,000Rp; hclasses 10am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Nyoman Suradnya teaches these highly regarded batik courses.
TTours
Day tours around Ubud are popular, especially ones that involve activities or themed programs.
Bali Nature Herbal WalksWALKING TOUR
(%0812 381 6024; www.baliherbalwalk.com; walks 200,000Rp per person; h8.30am)
Three-hour walks through lush Bali landscapes. Medicinal and cooking herbs and plants are identified and explained in their natural environment. Includes herbal drinks.
Banyan Tree Cycling ToursBICYCLE TOUR
(%0813 3879 8516; www.banyantreebiketours.com; tours adult/child from 550,000/350,000Rp)
Enjoy day-long tours of remote villages in the hills above Ubud. The tours are very popular, and emphasise interaction with villagers. Hiking and rafting trips are also available.
Bali Bird WalksBIRDWATCHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-975009; www.balibirdwalk.com; Jl Raya Campuan; tour incl lunch US$37; h9am-12.30pm Tue, Fri, Sat & Sun)
Started by Victor Mason more than three decades ago, this tour, ideal for keen birders, is still going strong. On a gentle morning's walk (from the long-closed Beggar's Bush Bar) you may see up to 30 of the 100-odd local species.
WALKS AROUND UBUD
Though Ubud has become traffic-clogged and tourist-choked, fortunately it's easy to escape. With only a short walk you'll find yourself immersed in verdant rice fields. There are lots of awe-inspiring walks to surrounding villages or through the rice paddies.
For a short jaunt head down a little track heading north off Jl Raya Ubud that goes past Abangan Bungalows, then follow the path through the lush rice fields; you'll pass numerous charming eateries, including Sari Organik. You can keep heading north as long as your interest or endurance lasts. Look for little offshoot trails to either side that lead to small rivers. Similarly, you can head down Jl Kajeng past Threads of Life and soon be transported to emerald surrounds.
For longer walks it’s good to start at daybreak, before it gets too hot.
The 8.5km Campuan Ridge walk leaves Jl Raya Campuan at the Warwick Ibah Luxury Villas. Enter the hotel driveway and take the path to the left, where a walkway crosses the river to Pura Gunung Lebah
. From there follow the concrete path north, climbing up onto the ridge between the two rivers. It passes over the lush river valley of Sungai Wos, offering views of Gunung Agung and glimpses of small village communities and rice fields.
Continuing north along the Campuan ridge, the road improves as it passes through rice paddies and the small village of Bangkiang Sidem. On the outskirts of the village, an unsigned road heads west, which winds down to Sungai Cerik (the west branch of Sungai Wos), then climbs steeply up to Payogan. From here you can walk south to the main road and on to the centre of Ubud.
zFestivals & Events
The Ubud area is one of the best places to see the many religious and cultural events celebrated in Bali each year. The tourist office is unmatched for its comprehensive information on events each week.
Bali Spirit FestivalDANCE, MUSIC
(www.balispiritfestival.com; day pass US$156; hlate Mar/early Apr)
A popular yoga, dance and music festival from the people behind the Yoga Barn, a local yoga hub. There are more than 100 workshops and concerts, plus a market and more.
Ubud Writers & Readers FestivalLITERATURE
(www.ubudwritersfestival.com; 1-day pass 1,200,000Rp; hlate Oct/early Nov)
Brings together scores of writers and readers from around the world in a celebration of writing – especially writing that touches on Bali. A major event on the Ubud calendar.
4Sleeping
Ubud has the best and most appealing range of places to stay in Bali, including fabled resorts, artful guesthouses, and charming, simple homestays.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 47