Around Ubud
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The immediate region surrounding Ubud has many of the most ancient monuments and relics in Bali. Some of them predate the Majapahit era and raise as-yet unanswered questions about Bali’s history. Others are more recent, and in other instances newer structures have been built on and around the ancient remains.
South of Ubud
The roads between Ubud and south Bali are lined with little shops that make and sell handicrafts. Many visitors shop along the route as they head to and from Ubud, sometimes by the busload. Much of the craftwork, though, is actually done in small workshops and family compounds on quiet back roads.
Bedulu
Bedulu was once the capital of a great kingdom. The legendary Dalem Bedaulu ruled the Pejeng dynasty from here, and was the last Balinese king to withstand the onslaught of the powerful Majapahit from Java. He was defeated by Gajah Mada in 1343. The capital shifted several times after this, to Gelgel and then later to Semarapura (Klungkung).
1Sights
Goa GajahCAVE
(Elephant Cave; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Goa Gajah; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp, parking motorcycle/car 2000/5000Rp; h8am-5.30pm)
There were never any elephants in Bali (until tourist attractions changed that); ancient Goa Gajah probably takes its name from the nearby Sungai Petanu, which at one time was known as Elephant River, or perhaps because the face over the cave entrance might resemble an elephant. It's located some 2km southeast of Ubud on the road to Bedulu.
The origins of the cave are uncertain; one tale relates that it was created by the fingernail of the legendary giant Kebo Iwa. It probably dates to the 11th century, and was certainly in existence during the Majapahit takeover of Bali. The cave was rediscovered by Dutch archaeologists in 1923, but the fountains and pool were not found until 1954.
The cave is carved into a rock face and you enter through the cavernous mouth of a demon. Inside the T-shaped cave you can see fragmentary remains of the lingam, the phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva, and its female counterpart the yoni, plus a statue of Shiva's son, the elephant-headed god Ganesha. In the courtyard in front of the cave are two square bathing pools with water trickling into them from waterspouts held by six female figures.
From Goa Gajah you can clamber down through the rice paddies to Sungai Petanu, where there are crumbling rock carvings of stupas (domes for housing Buddhist relics) on a cliff face, and a small cave.
Try to get here before 10am, which is when the big tourist buses begin lumbering into the large souvenir-stall-filled parking lot like, well, elephants.
Yeh PuluHISTORIC SITE
( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp; h8am-5.30pm)
A man having his hand munched by a boar is one of the scenes on the 25m-long carved cliff face known as Yeh Pulu, believed to be a hermitage from the late 14th century. Apart from the figure of Ganesha, the elephant-headed son of Hindu god Shiva, most of the scenes deal with everyday life, although the position and movement of the figures suggest that it could be read from left to right as a story. One theory is that they are events from the life of Krishna, the Hindu god.
Even if your interest in carved Hindu art is minor, this site is quite lovely and rarely will you have much company. From the entrance, it's a 300m lush, tropical walk to Yeh Pulu.
8Getting There & Away
About 3km east of Teges, the road from Ubud reaches a junction where you can turn south to Gianyar or north to Pejeng, Tampaksiring and Penelokan; for Bedulu follow the signs to Goa Gajah.
Bali Bird Park
Bali Bird ParkBIRD SANCTUARY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0316-299352; www.bali-bird-park.com; Jl Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir; adult/child 2-12yr 432,000/216,000Rp; h9am-5.30pm)
More than 1000 birds from 250 species flit about here, including rare cendrawasih (birds of paradise) from West Papua and the all-but-vanished Bali starlings. Many are housed in special walk-through aviaries; in one of the aviaries you follow a walk at tree-level, or what some with feathers might say is bird-level. A reptile section includes a Komodo dragon. It's popular with kids; allow at least two hours. It's located in Batubulan, halfway between Ubud and Denpasar.
Sukawati
Sukawati is a centre for the manufacture of wind chimes, temple umbrellas and masks.
Wayang kulit and topeng (wooden masks used in funerary dances) are also made in the backstreets of Sukawati, about 1km northwest of the main road.
oSukawati MarketMARKET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Raya Sukawati, Sukawati; h6am-8pm)
Sukawati Market is a highlight of any visit to the area. Always lively, this large market is a major source of the flowers, baskets, fruits, knick-knacks and other items used in temple offerings. It's a riot of colour.
Mas
Mas means ‘gold’, but woodcarving, particularly mask carving, is the craft practised here. The road through Mas is lined with craft shops for the tour buses, but there are plenty of smaller carving operations in the back lanes.
The galleries become ever-more glitzy the further north and closer to Ubud you get.
1Sights
oSetia Darma House of Masks & PuppetsMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-898 7493; Jl Tegal Bingin; suggested donation 35,000Rp; h8am-4pm)F
This is one of the best museums in the Ubud area, home to more than 7000 ceremonial masks and puppets from Bali, Indonesia, Asia and beyond. All are beautifully displayed in a series of renovated historic buildings. Among the many treasures, look for the golden Jero Luh Mask, and the faces of royalty, mythical monsters and even common people. The museum is about 2km northeast of the main Mas crossroads.
DON'T MISS
BALI'S CHOCOLATE FACTORY
You might think Swiss or Belgian when you think chocolate but soon you could be thinking Bali. Big Tree Farms ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-846 3327; www.bigtreefarms.com; Sibang; tours with/without bookings 40,000/60,000Rp; htours 2pm Mon-Fri), a local producer of quality foodstuffs that has made a big splash internationally, has built a chocolate factory about 10km southwest of Ubud in the village of Sibang.
And this is not just any factory: rather it is a huge and architecturally stunning creation made sustainably from bamboo. This emphasis on sustainable practice extends to the company's very philosophy.
The chocolate made here comes from cocoa beans grown by more than 13,000 farmers across Indonesia. The result is a very high-quality chocolate that you can watch being made on a tour.
Just seeing one of the world's largest bamboo structures is an attraction in itself; toss in getting to sample the chocolate – from raw cacao to the finished product – and you've landed an all-round delectable experience.
Reaching the factory is easy as Sibang is on one of the roads linking Ubud to south Bali. A taxi here is around 100,000Rp, including waiting time.
North of Ubud
Tampaksiring
Tampaksiring is a small village, about 18km northeast of Ubud. It has a large and important temple, Tirta Empul, and the most impressive ancient site in Bali, Gunung Kawi. It sits in the Pakerisan Valley, and the entire area has been nominated for Unesco recognition.
1Sights
oGunung KawiMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child incl sarong 15,000/7500Rp, parking 2000Rp; h7am-6pm)
At the bottom of a lush green river valley lies one of Bali's oldest and largest ancient monuments. Gunung Kawi consists of 10 rock-cut candi (shrines) – memorials cut out of the rock face in imitation of actual statues. They stand in awe-inspiring 8m-high sheltered niches cut into the sheer cliff face. Be prepared for long climbs – there are more than 270 steps. The views as you walk through ancient terraced rice fields are as fine as any on Bali.
Tirta EmpulMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child 15,000/7500Rp, parking 2000Rp; h7am-6pm)
A well-signposted fork in the road north of Tampaksiring leads to the popular holy springs at Tirta Empul, discovered in AD 962 and believed to have magical powers. The springs bubble up into
a large, crystal-clear pool within the temple and gush out through waterspouts into a bathing pool.
8Getting There & Away
Tampaksiring is an easy day trip from Ubud, or a stop between Ubud and Danau Batur. Tirta Empul and Gunung Kawi are easy to find along the Penelokan–Ubud road, and are only about 1.5km apart.
Elephant Safari Park
Elephant Safari ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-721480; www.baliadventuretours.com; Taro; tours incl transport adult/child US$65/44; h8am-6pm)
Abandoned and abused logging elephants from Sumatra have been given refuge at this camp in the cool, wet highlands of Taro (14km north of Ubud). Besides seeing a full complement of exhibits about elephants, you can ride one of 31 residents for an extra fee. Be aware that animal welfare groups claim elephant rides are harmful for the pachyderms, so it's worth reading up on the issues involved if you're considering that option.
While far from a perfect model (metal 'gancho' hooks are used on the elephants, which are chained up when unattended), this park has been praised for its conservation efforts. Be careful you don't end up at one of the rogue copycat parks, designed to divert the unwary to less salubrious elephant encounters.
East Bali
The eastern side of Bali is dominated by the mighty 3142m Gunung Agung, the ‘navel of the world’ and Bali’s ‘mother mountain’. The slopes of this and the other peaks at this end of the island hold some of the most verdant rice fields and tropical vistas you can imagine. East Bali is a good place to have your own transport, as you can have the freedom to ‘get lost’ wandering side roads and to revel in the exquisite scenery.
The coast is dotted with beaches, many rough, rugged and untrammelled. Add in some ancient cultural sites and the popular areas of Sidemen, Padangbai and Amed, and you have an area that will lure you from the south Bali–Ubud juggernaut.
Gianyar
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This is the affluent administrative capital and main market town of the Gianyar district, which also includes Ubud. The town has a number of factories producing batik and ikat (woven cloth) fabrics, and its compact centre offers some excellent food, especially at the famous night market.
5Eating
oNight MarketMARKET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ngurah Rai; dishes from 15,000Rp; h5-11pm)
The sound of hundreds of cooking pots and the glare of bright lights add a frenetic and festive clamour to Gianyar's delicious night market, which any local will tell you has some of the best food in Bali. Scores of stalls set up each night in the centre and cook up a mouth-watering and jaw-dropping range of dishes.
7Shopping
At the western end of Gianyar on the main Ubud road you'll find textile factories, including the large Tenun Ikat Setia Cili ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-943409; Jl Astina Utara; h9am-5pm) and Cap Togog ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-943046; Jl Astina Utara 11; h8am-5pm). Both are on the main drag west of the centre, about 500m apart. The latter has a fascinating production area below it; follow the sound of dozens of clacking wooden looms.
8Getting There & Away
Regular bemos run between Batubulan terminal near Denpasar and Gianyar's main terminal (15,000Rp), which is behind the main market. Bemos to and from Ubud (10,000Rp) use the bemo stop across the road from the main market.
A driver from Ubud will charge 120,000Rp, including waiting time, for a night-market excursion. It's a 20-minute drive.
WORTH A TRIP
SURFING KERAMAS
As you head east on the coast from Sanur, pretty much any side street leading off the main road will end up at a beach. Most notable is the surf beach Pantai Keramas ( GOOGLE MAP ), a powerful right-hand break known for its barrels. It's home of the Komune Bali Pro (www.worldsurfleague.com) in May, when the world's best professional surfers battle it out. It's also famous for night surfing, with floodlights erected by the Komune Bali ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0361-301 8888; www.komuneresorts.com; Jl Pantai Keramas; r from US$90; aWs) surf resort. Only six surfers are allowed out at a time, and you'll need to book in advance (US$24 per hour; 8pm to 10pm).
Bangli
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Halfway up the slope to Penelokan, Bangli was once the capital of a kingdom. Nowadays it's a humble market town noteworthy for its sprawling temple, Pura Kehen, which is on a beautiful jungle road that runs east past rice terraces and connects at Sekar, with roads to Rendang and Sidemen.
1Sights
oPura KehenHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child incl sarong 30,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm)
The state temple of the Bangli kingdom, Pura Kehen is one of the finest temples in eastern Bali; it is a miniature version of Pura Besakih, Bali's most important temple. It's terraced up the hillside, with a flight of steps leading to the beautifully decorated entrance. The first courtyard has a huge banyan tree with a kulkul (hollow tree-trunk drum used to sound a warning) entwined in its branches.
The inner courtyard has an 11-roof meru (multi-tiered shrine), and there are other shrines with thrones for the Hindu trinity: Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. The carvings are particularly intricate. See if you can count all 43 altars.
Pura Dalem PenunggekanHINDU TEMPLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Merdeka)F
The exterior wall of this fascinating temple of the dead features vivid relief carvings of evil-doers getting their just deserts in the afterlife. One panel addresses the lurid fate of adulterers (men in particular may find the viewing uncomfortable). Other panels portray sinners as monkeys, while another is a good representation of sinners begging to be spared the fires of hell. It's 3km south of the centre of Bangli.
Semarapura (Klungkung)
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A tidy regional capital, Semarapura should be on your itinerary for its fascinating Kertha Gosa complex, a relic of Bali from the time before the Dutch. Once the centre of Bali's most important kingdom, Semarapura is still commonly called by its old name, Klungkung.
It's a good place to stroll and get a feel for modern Balinese life. The markets are large, the shops many and the streets are reasonably calm.
1Sights
oKlungkung PalaceHISTORIC BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Puputan; adult/child 12,000/6000Rp; h6am-6pm)
When the Dewa Agung dynasty moved here in 1710, the Semara Pura was established. The palace was laid out as a large square, believed to be in the form of a mandala, with courtyards, gardens, pavilions and moats. The complex is sometimes referred to as Taman Gili (Island Garden). Most of the original palace and grounds were destroyed by the 1908 Dutch attacks; the Pemedal Agung, the gateway on the south side of the square, is all that remains of the palace itself – check out its carvings.
Two important buildings are preserved in a restored section of the grounds, and, along with a museum, they comprise the remains of the palace complex.
Kertha Gosa (Hall of Justice; GOOGLE MAP ; Klungkung Palace)
In the northeastern corner of the complex, the Kertha Gosa was effectively the supreme court of the Klungkung kingdom, where disputes and cases that could not be settled at the village level were eventually brought. This open-sided pavilion is a superb example of Klungkung architecture. The ceiling is completely covered with fine paintings in the Klungkung style. The paintings, done on asbestos sheeting, were installed in the 1940s, replacing cloth paintings that had deteriorated.
The rows of ceiling panels depict several themes. The lowest level illustrates five tales from Bali's answer to the Arabian Nights, where a girl called Tantri spins a different yarn every night. The next two rows are scenes from Bima's travels in the afterlife, where he witnesses the torment of evil-doers. The gruesome tortures are shown clearly, but there are different interpretations of which punishment goes with what crime. (There's an authoritative explanation in The Epic of Life – A Balinese Journey of the Soul by Idanna Pucci, available for reference in the pavilion.) The fourth row of panels depicts the story of the search of the garuda (mythical man-bird) for the elixir of life, while the fifth row s
hows events on the Balinese astrological calendar. The next three rows return to the story of Bima, this time depicting him travelling in heaven, with doves and a lotus flower at the apex of the ceiling.
Bale Kambang (Floating Temple; GOOGLE MAP ; Taman Kertha Gosa, Klungkung Palace)
The ceiling of the beautiful Bale Kambang (aka the Floating Pavilion) is painted in Klungkung style. Again, the different rows of paintings deal with various subjects. The first row is based on the astrological calendar, the second on the folk tale of Pan and Men Brayut and their 18 children, and the upper rows on the adventures of the hero Sutasona.
Museum Semarajaya ( GOOGLE MAP ; Klungkung Palace)
The diverting museum has an interesting collection of archaeological and other pieces. There are exhibits of songket (silver- or gold-threaded cloth) weaving and palm toddy (palm wine) and palm-sugar extraction. Don't miss the moving display about the 1908 puputan (fight to the death against an enemy), along with some interesting old photos of the royal court. The exhibit on salt-making gives you a good idea of the hard work involved.
Semarapura MarketMARKET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro; h6am-5pm)
Semarapura's sprawling market is a vibrant hub of commerce and a meeting place for people of the region. You can easily spend an hour wandering about the warren of stalls on three levels. It's grimy, yes, but also endlessly fascinating. Huge straw baskets of lemons, limes, tomatoes and other produce are islands of colour amid the chaos. A plethora of locally made snacks are offered in profusion; try several.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 50