Majolica Ulama IndonesiaMOSQUE
(Masjid Al Munawwah; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sultan Djabir Sjah)
It's hardly the Hagia Sophia, and the seaward minarets have been reclaimed by the sea (only the crumbled footings remain), but this concrete-and-tile mosque dominates the central foreshore of Kota Ternate, and has been listed amongst the most impressive mosques in all Indonesia. Its architectural highlight is the centralised dome, covered in the repeating name of Allah picked out in Arabic calligraphy.
Benteng KalamataFORTRESS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The 1540 Benteng Kalamata is dramatically situated on the waterfront 1km southwest of Bastiong, staring down Ternate's old foe, Tidore. You can wander the unusual angular geometry of its outer walls, but may have to slip the grumpy caretaker 5000Rp for the privilege.
Central Kota Ternate
1Sights
1Benteng OranyeC1
2Majolica Ulama IndonesiaD3
4Sleeping
3Archie MenaraC5
4Boulevard HotelD2
5Emerald HotelB3
6Hotel ArchieC5
7Hotel Archie 2C5
8Hotel IndahC3
9Seqavia GuesthouseC4
10Tiara InnC4
5Eating
11Bakso Lapangan Tembak SenayanB4
12Golden BakeryB3
13Kedai MitaA4
14Lauk PaukA3
15Rumah Makan JoyoB2
6Drinking & Nightlife
16New Laguna Executive ClubB4
7Shopping
17Jatiland MallD2
18Ternate MallC2
4Sleeping
Prices have risen quite sharply in Ternate over recent years, but remain very affordable. Accommodation under 150,000Rp can still be found, but conditions are often very basic. You’ll value a room with air-con, given the oppressive heat and humidity.
Seqavia GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-311 1147; Jl Kampung Kodok; r 150,000Rp; a)
Tucked away from the two-stroke mayhem of the main roads, Seqavia is a basic, good-value option. Unfinished renovations (including the intriguing stairs-to-nowhere) and faded fittings explain the low prices, but many at this level wouldn't come with air-con in all rooms.
Tiara InnGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-311 1017; Jl Salim Fabanyo 1; s/d/superior r 200,000/220,000/250,000Rp; a)
Popular for its good value, the Tiara is a little tarnished, but ticks all the boxes of adequate, dependable accommodation. Behind the standard Ternate lobby of polished tiles, chattering TV and idling smokers you'll find simple, clean rooms and effective air-conditioning.
Hotel IndahHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 4499 8668; Jl Hasan Boesoeri 3; economy/standard/superior r from 85,000/125,000/150,000Rp ; a)
Definitely one for the budget-conscious, Indah looks down-at-heel, but presents no serious obstacle to the unfussy traveller. There's air-con throughout, and hot water in the superior rooms.
oVilla Ma'rasaiINN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 9288 9475, 0821 3733 7395; www.vilamarasai.com; Jl Kampus II; d 650,000Rp; aW)
Painstakingly built over 15 years by charming, English-speaking owner Hassan, this sweet boutique sleep is 7km from the city centre, next to the university, in Gambesi village. Set high on Gamalama's slopes among clove trees and coconut palms, it has stunning views of the sea, Tidore and the surrounding riot of tropical foliage.
The exterior is colourfully dressed in yellows and oranges, the interior decorated with ikat (woven cloth) and other handicrafts. The immaculate rooms are spacious with hardwood floors, ample windows, high wooden ceilings and two-tone paint jobs. Wi-fi is available in the lobby, and while there's no hot water, the alternative is 'cold' in name only. Meals, primarily fish, are exceptional, and Hassan, himself a fount of knowledge about Malut, can organise bikes, cars and tours of Ternate's jungles (and beyond). All told, a delightful place to unwind beyond the grit and bustle of Ternate.
Hotel ArchieHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-311 0555; Jl Nuku 6; standard/superior r 300,000/330,000Rp; a)
Archie's empire now comprises three hotels within spitting distance of each other: the original, always better than most equivalently priced competitors; Archie 2 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-312 1197; Jl Nuku 100; d 350,000Rp; a), across the road and with similar (if less charismatic) features; and the new flagship, Archie Menara ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-312 2100; [email protected]; Jl Nuku 101; standard r 425,000Rp; aW) aimed at higher-end and business traveller – it's comfortable, clean, and good value. All three are close to the action.
Emerald HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-312 8288, 0921-312 8188; [email protected]; Jl Branjang 28; standard/superior/deluxe r 390,000/490,000/590,000Rp; aW)
On a quieter side street off Jl Pattimura, lined with food vendors, you'll find the Emerald, one of the newest and nicest hotels in town. It's pushing towards the upper end of mid-range, but the wi-fi, cool, comfortable rooms, super-friendly staff and (slightly bizarre) gleaming equestrian statuary in the lobby make it feel like decent value.
Boulevard HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-311 0777, 0921-311 0666; Jatiland BS; standard/business/deluxe r 330,000/395,000/475,000Rp; aW)
Usefully located near both a modern shopping centre and the traditional markets, the Boulevard is a comfortable, reasonably upmarket option. Behind the standard Ternate lobby of tiles, TVs and plastic orchids you'll find clean if slightly stale-smelling rooms with TVs, wi-fi, air-conditioning and Western-style bathrooms.
oBela International HotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-312 1800; www.belainternationalhotel.com; Jl Jati Raya 500; deluxe/executive r 1,350,000/2,250,000Rp; aWs)
A little out of the centre, the Bela is the place to go for an 'international' hotel experience. In fact, it's the swankiest of its kind in Maluku: 195 rooms of flashy fittings, paddling-pool-sized beds, and flunkies hurrying down endless corridors. It's not the most charismatic or best-value place in town, but it comes with all the trimmings.
5Eating
Rumah makan (eating houses) offer cheap eats throughout town, with high concentrations around the markets. Several shacks north of the bemo terminal serve local specialities such as ikan gohu (raw tuna 'cooked' in citrus) and popeda (Malukan sago congee) as part of 30,000Rp all-you-can-eat spreads, including fish, cassava and a dozen other side dishes.
Self-caterers should head to the supermarkets at Jatiland and Ternate malls, or Golden Bakery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pattimura; h9am-10pm), which bakes a decent selection of fresh bread and pastries.
Rumah Makan Popeda GamalamaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 30,000Rp; h5am-5pm)
This wonderful little market shack is the choice spot to try popeda in Ternate. An array of fish, stewed greens, mushrooms, pumpkin and sambals accompanies the mucilaginous sago-flour glue that is popeda. Leave your textural food fears at the door: the locals will be thrilled to have you, and you may even like it!
Rumah Makan JoyoINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Nuri; mains 35,000-55,000Rp; h9am-midnight)
Joyo has joyously bright decor (think mermaids and waterdragons) and is a joy to seafood lovers. Choose from the catch of the day, stashed in polystyrene coolers for your rummaging convenience. Udang and kepiting (prawn and crab) dishes are wonderful, and wonderfully cheap.
Kedai MitaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Stadion; mains 15,000-60,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
One of the best places in town to sample Malukan staples (alongside classic Indo fare), Kedai Mita is a covered, open-air eating house in the lee of Ternate's stadium. Try the ikan gohu (raw tuna 'cooked' in calamansi juice with chillies, basil and steamed cassava) or the popeda.
Lauk PaukINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pattimura; mains 12,000-25,000Rp; h6am-8pm)
This looks like just another what-you-see-
is-what-you-get rumah makan, but locals know it's one of the best. Multiple styles of ikan (perhaps woku – braised in a lemongrass paste – or kayu – sun-dried, Acehnese style) and ayam (chicken fried, or in an acari sauce of Indian pickling spices) all repay the adventurous orderer.
Bakso Lapangan Tembak SenayanINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-326 028; Jl Mononutu; mains 20,000-43,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
Vaguely Japanese in decor, this fan-cooled, brick-and-timber eating house specialises in bakso (meatballs) various ways, including fried or bobbing in clear soup. The other Indonesian staples – noodles, fried rice, flour-dusted squid and the like – can all be depended on.
oFloridasSEAFOOD$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-321 4430; mains 20,000-700,000Rp; h10am-11pm)
Floridas is a locally famous seafood restaurant. Get yourself a balcony table with peerless views to Tidore and Maitara, and tuck into ikan woku balanga: fish steak roasted in kenari nut, chilli, lemongrass and other aromatics. The lobster may be pricy by local standards, but is well worth it.
6Drinking & Nightlife
In deference to Ternate's Muslim majority, alcohol may not be sold in restaurants, and beer (prohibitively expensive by local standards) is available only in karaoke bars. Translation: pack a flask.
New Laguna Executive ClubCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Mononutu; h10pm-4am Mon-Sat)
Don't be put off by the title – the Laguna isn't just for executives; in fact, it jauntily boasts 'we never stop the party!' Behind a looming facade on Jl Mononutu you'll find live bands, three DJs on rotation, and one of the few places in Ternate to buy (expensive) beer.
7Shopping
Jatiland MallMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sultan M Djabir Shah; h10am-10pm)
The bustling new waterfront Jatiland Mall is not going to give Surabaya or Jakarta or even Medan mall envy. However, you can find cafes with wi-fi, a Graha Media bookshop, a Multi Mart outlet and even a gym, all in air-conditioned, middle-class comfort.
Ternate MallSHOPPING CENTRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Merdeka & Ketilang; h8am-10pm)
A small, serviceable shopping centre with a supermarket, pharmacy and food and clothing outlets. One of the few places in Ternate to buy sunscreen and insect repellent.
8Information
A town-wide rash of new, air-conditioned ATM cabinets attests to Ternate's growing prosperity, but only the BNI ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pahlawan Revolusi; h8am-3pm Mon-Thu, to noon Fri) changes money (and then only US dollars in new, unfolded $100 bills). Carry cards compatible with Indonesian ATMs, and you'll never be caught short.
Dharma Ibu Rumah Sakit UmumHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pahlawan Revolusi)
Ternate's principal hospital is a Dutch-founded holdover from the colonial days, set in the original 80-year-old building. There are multiple doctors, but English may be limited, so it's best to bring a translator where possible.
Ternate City Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 222 7667, 0921-311 1211; Jl Pattimura 160; h8am-2.30pm Mon-Fri)
There's not a great deal of information in English, but the staff are knowledgeable and will do all they can to help. Look for the office signed 'Dinas Pariwisata', opposite the police station.
Warnet OnlineINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Hasan Boesoeri; per hr 6000Rp; h8am-10pm; i)
A very basic (but functional) internet cafe open into the evening.
8Getting There & Away
There's a Pelni office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-312 1434; www.pelni.com; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat) near the port.
Flight schedules and carriers shift frequently. If you want a current, comprehensive view of exactly who is flying where and when, find Eterna Raya Ternate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-312 1651; Jl Hasan Boesoeri 109; h8am-5pm), the best travel agent in Ternate. Departure tax is 16,000Rp.
A number of airlines have offices in town.
Xpress AirAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-312 2846; Jl Pattimura 24; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
GarudaAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0921-312 8030, 0921-331 8757, 0823 4694 0800; Jl Boulevard Raya 43, Ruko Jatiland Business Centre; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Lion Air/Wings AirAIRLINE
(Almas Mega Travel; GOOGLE MAP ; %021-6379 8000, 0921-327 005; Jl Pattimura 125; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
TRANSPORT FROM PULAU TERNATE
AIR
Destination Airline Frequency
Ambon Garuda, Xpress Air 3 weekly
Galela (Pulau Halmahera) Xpress Air 3 weekly
Makassar Xpress Air, Garuda, Sriwijaya daily
Manado Lion Air/Wings Air, Garuda daily
Surabaya Batavia Air, Xpress Air daily
BOAT
Destination Port Type Fare (Rp) Frequency
Ambon via Namlea Ahmad Yani Pelni varies 2 monthly
Jailolo (Pulau Halmahera) Dufa Dufa kapal motor 35,000 3 daily
Jailolo (Pulau Halmahera) Dufa Dufa speedboat 50,000 when full
Rum Bastiong Ferry Port car ferry 5,000 7am, 1pm, 4pm, 6pm
Rum Bastiong Ferry Port speedboat 10,000, charters 70,000 when full
Sidangoli (Pulau Halmahera) Mesjid Raya speedboat 50,000, charters 350,000 when full
Sofifi (Pulau Halmahera) Kota Baru speedboat 30,000-50,000 when full
Sorong Ahmad Yani Pelni varies 2 monthly
8Getting Around
Taxis charge an exorbitant 100,000Rp for the 6km from Babullah Airport to central Ternate. Ojeks will do this run for as little as 10,000Rp however, and bemos (from outside Hairun University, 10 minutes' walk south) cost only 5000Rp to the central market. From there, bemos run in all directions (5000Rp) but ojek (from 5000Rp per ride) are generally more convenient.
Around Pulau Ternate
Head out of Kota Ternate via Batu Angus (a gnarled 300-year-old lava flow) and you'll reach Sulamadaha (entrance 5000Rp), a popular if somewhat litter-strewn black-sand beach with heavy swells and sadly ruined coral. From a cove 800m east, public longboats (5000Rp per person) cross to the offshore volcanic cone of Pulau Hiri almost hourly from dusk till dawn. Hiri was the last step of the sultan’s family’s Sound of Music–style escape from Ternate during WWII.
Back on Ternate, beyond the village of Takome, the main road returns to the coast beside the small, muddy Danau Tolire Kecil. Less than a kilometre further, a paved side lane (2000Rp fee) climbs to the rim of Danau Tolire Besar. Startlingly sheer cliffs plummet down to the lugubriously green, crocodile-infested waters of this deep crater lake. Locals offer guide services should you want to descend (1½ hours return on foot).
A footpath from the southern edge of Dorpedu leads down to Jouburiki, the beach where Ternate’s very first sultan was supposedly crowned in 1257. Danau Laguna is a pleasant, spring-fed bowl lake with a lushly forested perimeter (and plans to introduce aquaculture and fishing). Across the straits lie the conical islands of Tidore and Maitara, as featured on Indonesia’s 1000Rp notes. Those volcanoes align perfectly when viewed from Floridas restaurant just beyond Ngade. Across the road are the stubby roadside remnants of Benteng Santo Pedro i Paulo, once Ternate’s main line of defence against a 1606 Spanish attack.
Gunung Api Gamalama
Ternate’s central volcano laid waste to the island in 1840, and periodic eruptions continue to this day. While it's not considered imminently dangerous, it's currently prohibited to bag its peak. There are pleasant, shorter clove-grove hikes from Air Tege Tege village (near the transmitter tower), or from Villa Ma'rasai in Kampung Gambesi (it arranges day hikes), but even here it gets very steep rapidly. The tourist office can help you find a guide.
8Getting Around
From Kota Ternate’s central terminal, bemos run frequently to Sulamadaha (5000Rp, counter-clockwise) and Kastela (5000Rp, clockwise). No single bemo goes right around the island but some north-route vehicles drive as far as Togafo (10,000Rp). From there it’s a pleasantly twisty 2km walk to Taduma, where the longest sou
th-route bemos start. Consider chartering an ojek to loop around the island with photo stops (from 100,000Rp).
Pulau Tidore
%0921
Less populous, less mercantile and less frenetic than Ternate, Tidore makes a refreshing escape from the bustle of its historical enemy. The sultanate – which endured from 1109 until the Sukarno era – was re-established in 1999. Today, the 36th sultan presides over a sublime volcanic island dotted with painted wooden homes bordered by flower gardens, shaded by mango trees and coconut palms, and scented by sheets of cloves and nutmeg sun-drying in the street.
In Tidorean dialect sukur dofu means ‘thank you’, saki means ‘delicious’ and sterek (lau) means ‘(very) good’. Hire an ojek, spin all the way around, and you'll come out smiling.
Soasio
Drowsy and exceptionally friendly for a capital, Soasio has fewer shops than nearby port-town Goto, but a monopoly on Tidore's cultural and historical sights.
1Sights
Benteng TahulaFORT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Lain)F
A legacy of Spain's short-lived presence in Tidore, this early 17-century fort is well preserved, with orderly market gardens within and spectacular views to Halmahera without. It's a steep climb to the top, and the fort is always open.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 80