A growing number of much-less-expensive ‘homestays’ are opening up on several islands – the majority on Kri and Gam. Few of them are actual homestays but groups of purposely built palm-thatch huts close to or even over the water. A few now have private bathrooms but most just have separate, shared Indonesian-style bathrooms. They all offer snorkelling, birdwatching and other outings. Three (mainly fish-based) meals a day are usually part of the deal. Homestays will normally pick you up in Waisai if you contact them a day or two ahead (best by phone or SMS), typically for 1,000,000Rp to 1,200,000Rp per boat return trip to Kri or Gam, and increasingly more distant places. Boat outings can cost anything from 400,000Rp to 1,500,000Rp, or even more, depending how far you go.
The Raja Ampat Tourism Management Office in Sorong can help you contact homestays, or visit www.stayrajaampat.com, which lists all homestays and includes contact details, rates and reviews. A warning: we’ve heard several tales from disappointed travellers who found promised services or meals lacking, or even nonexistent.
Pulau Kri
oLumba LumbaGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0812 8100 9244, 0821 9829 4400; www.lulumba.com; r incl full board 500,000Rp)
On the blissfully quiet southern shore of Pulau Kri, Lumba Lumba is one of the most professionally run guesthouses on Kri and in all of Raja Ampat. The five comfortable overwater huts are well maintained and have attractive seashell decorations. Looking over the eye-searing white sands and sheer jungle-tinged cliffs, you’ll probably decide this is the perfect spot to drop out of life for a while.
Mangkur Kodon HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0852 4335 9154; [email protected]; s/d incl full board 400,000/600,000Rp)
This guesthouse is set where two perfect beaches meet in one tight triangle – a sight known to induce tears of joy. Combine that with friendly staff, top-class snorkelling out front, and inviting palm-thatch huts hung over the water and you’ve all the ingredients for happiness.
It’s on the far southwestern edge of the island, and a short walk (or wade at high tide) from the other accommodation options.
Koranu Fyak BungalowsHOMESTAY$$
(%0813 4417 4787, 0822 3801 9420; [email protected]; s/d incl full board 400,000/600,000Rp)
This foreign-managed homestay understands the needs of backpackers and serves them up simple thatch huts with separate shared bathrooms lined up along a sparkly white beach. If you don’t like dogs you probably won’t like this place because there are loads of them hanging around. English and Spanish spoken.
Kri Eco ResortRESORT$$$
(%0811 483 4614; www.papua-diving.com; Pulau Kri; 7-night unlimited diving package s/d from €1729/3038; W)S
Operating since 1994, Kri Eco is the original Raja Ampat dive lodge. It’s a professional operation with a gorgeous setting. Baby black-tip reef sharks are frequently seen swimming in the shallows below the restaurant. All 13 rooms are on stilts at the edge of the crystal-clear water but most have on-land, shared bathrooms (with mandis).
Sorido Bay ResortRESORT$$$
(%0811 483 4614; www.papua-diving.com; Pulau Kri; 7-night unlimited diving package €2705-2890; aW)S
Sorido offers top diving standards along with Western-style comforts, such as air-con, camera workstations and hot showers in spacious, well-equipped beachfront bungalows. The tucked-away location fronting a divine beach is superb.
Owner Max Ammer pioneered diving in Raja Ampat after he stumbled upon the potential while searching the area for crashed WWII aircraft. From that you will probably quite rightly deduce that he’s a real character who’ll add much to your stay.
Pulau Gam
oKordiris HomestayGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0812 4856 9412, 0853 9904 0888; www.kordiris.com; Pulau Gam; per person incl full board 300,000-350,000Rp)
This well-organised homestay, which sits in a secluded, dreamy bay dotted with tiny coral islands, is one of the best around. The rooms are made of palm thatch, and while some are in the cool shade of trees, others are exposed to the breezes on the salty white sand.
Mambefor HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0852 5454 4254; Sawinggrai Village, Pulau Gam; s/d incl full board 400,000/500,000Rp)
A very basic little overwater homestay that’s right on the jetty in Sawinggrai village. There are three rooms with mattresses on the floor and shared bathrooms 50m away in the village. As such, a stay here is more about cultural interaction than beach lounging. Don’t expect much privacy – or much beach.
oRaja Ampat BiodiversityLODGE$$$
(%0821 8922 2577; www.rajaampatbiodiversity.com; Pantai Yenanas, Pulau Gam; 7 nights full board incl 14 dives s/d from €1630/2770)S
Two kilometres east of Yenbeser village on Gam, Spanish-run Biodiversity is probably the overall best-value place to stay on the islands. Accommodation is in spacious, comfortable cabins filled with seashore knick-knacks. The ‘budget’ rooms have shared bathrooms. Good Indonesian and Western food is served, the dive operation is of a high standard, and PADI and SSI diving courses are offered too.
Unusually for a resort it offers packages shorter than a week. Free scheduled transfers from Waisai are available.
Papua Explorers ResortRESORT$$$
(%0811 800 0511; www.papuaexplorers.com; 7-night dive package incl full board s/d €2310/3930, incl 3 boat dives daily & unlimited house-reef dives; aW)
One of the flashiest, newest and biggest of the dive resorts, this Turkish-run place set in a large, pretty bay has 15 palatial over-water bungalows. All have elegant furnishings and tribal decoration, hot-water bathrooms, terraces with easy sea access and in-room wi-fi. It’s all very polished – maybe too much for some. We have to deduct points, however, for allowing soapy, coral-killing shower water to drain straight into the ocean.
Other Islands
Harapan Jaya HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0813 4435 3030; Harapan Jaya Village; full board per person 400,000Rp)
This superior-standard homestay is currently the only one on large, remote Pulau Misool (actually it’s on a small offshore island). It's a great base for exploring Misool’s breathtaking islands, beaches, caves and waterfalls. However, getting there is problematic. You can either charter an expensive speedboat (around US$3500) or take the weekly ferry from Sorong (departs Friday, returns Saturday).
Misool Eco ResortRESORT$$$
(www.misoolecoresort.com; Pulau Batbitim; 7-night unlimited diving package r from €2320-4390; hclosed Jul & Aug; aW)S
On a beautiful small island off southeastern Misool (a four- to five-hour trip from Sorong), this comfortable, well-run dive resort has a strong conservation and community ethos and many superb dive sites within a few minutes’ boat ride. Most cottages have a verandah over the water; all have open-air bathrooms.
It maintains an 862-sq-km no-take zone in the surrounding waters. Speedboat transfers from Sorong are €300 per person.
Papua ParadiseRESORT$$$
(www.papuaparadise.com; Pulau Birie; 7-night unlimited diving package s/d €2335/3994; W)
With large, elegant over-water bungalows on a gorgeous, pristine, small island off northern Batanta, and masses of good diving nearby, this resort is one of the best in Raja Ampat. It’s also a good base for birdwatching (including the red and Wilson’s birds of paradise) and offers PADI courses.
Raja4DiversRESORT$$$
(%0811 485 7711; www.raja4divers.com; Pulau Pef; 7-night unlimited diving package s/d €3100/5200; iW)
A classy small resort on an idyllic island beach with a reef out front, Raja4Divers sits off western Gam, giving access to some superb dives that are beyond the normal reach of Dampier Strait resorts. The large, airy water’s-edge bungalows are decked with intriguing artefacts and are as refined as they come.
There’s no extra charge for distant dives here, but you do have to pay (€250 per person each way) for the scheduled Sorong transfers.
Liveaboards
The ultimate Raja Ampat experience could be cruising around on a Bugis-style schooner speci
ally kitted out for divers. Some 40-plus Indonesian- and foreign-owned liveaboards do regular one- to two-week dive cruises, usually starting and ending in Sorong. Some itineraries combine Raja Ampat with Maluku, Teluk Cenderawasih, or Triton Bay (Teluk Triton) south of Kaimana. Most boats carry 12 to 16 passengers and some are luxurious, with air-conditioned cabins and en-suite bathrooms. Most cruises run between November and April, when Raja Ampat seas are calmest. Costs typically range between US$300 and US$500 per person per day. See www.diverajaampat.org for a full list of operators.
Grand KomodoDIVING
(www.komodoalordive.com)
A long-running Indonesian operation, which has three liveaboards operating year-round and is among the least expensive.
Seven SeasDIVING
(www.thesevenseas.net)
The Seven Seas is probably the last word in Raja Ampat liveaboard luxury.
ShaktiDIVING
(www.shakti-raja-ampat.com)
Well-established, quality operator.
PinditoDIVING
(www.pindito.com)
Beautiful boat, cruising in a beautiful place.
SeahorseDIVING
(www.indocruises.com)
Excellent operator around Raja Ampat and elsewhere.
8Getting There & Around
Waisai has a new and impressive airport. Sadly its runway is also very short – too short, it turned out, for the full-sized passenger planes that were planned to come here. Instead there are Susi Air flights on Sunday and Friday between Sorong and Waisai, but it’s just as quick (after all the messing around at the airport) to get the ferry.
Fast Marina Express passenger boats (economy/VIP 130,000/220,000Rp, two hours) and a larger, slower boat (100,000Rp, three hours) depart for Waisai from Sorong’s Pelabuhan Feri (Pelabuhan Rakyat; Jl Feri, off Jl Sudirman) at 2pm daily. The slower boats have greater open-air deck space. The boats head back from Waisai at 2pm Sunday to Friday and at noon Saturday.
Ojek to Pelabuhan Feri cost around 15,000Rp from the western end of Sorong or outside the airport; a taxi is around 50,000Rp. Ojek between port and town in Waisai (2km) are 20,000Rp.
An overnight boat to Waigama and Lilinta on Misool leaves Pelabuhan Feri at 10pm every Friday (economy/VIP 310,000Rp/375,000Rp), but other passenger boats to and around the islands are irregular. To arrange transport around the islands once there, your best bet is to ask at your accommodation or Waisai’s Tourism Information Centre. Prices depend on boat, distance and petrol price and are usually negotiable.
Manokwari
%0986 / Pop 60,000
Capital of Papua Barat (West Papua) province, Manokwari sits on Teluk Cenderawasih near the northeastern corner of the Vogelkop. It merits a visit mainly for the natural attractions in the surrounding area, notably the Pegunungan Arfak. Most travellers’ facilities are in the area called Kota, on the eastern side of the Teluk Sawaisu inlet. Local transport terminals and the airport (7km from town) are to the west and southwest.
Manokwari
4Sleeping
1Billy Jaya HotelB2
2Metro HotelB2
3Swiss-belhotelA2
5Eating
4Rumah Makan Salam ManisB2
1Sights & Activities
Pulau MansinamISLAND
Two German missionaries settled on Mansinam Island off Manokwari in 1855 and became the first to spread Christianity in Papua. The picturesque, rainforest-covered island is home to a small village, a none-too-subtle church, and a wannabe Rio statue of Christ. There’s also a pleasant beach along its western and southern shores. The coral reef off the southern end offers good snorkelling.
Outrigger boats (5000Rp one way) sail to Mansinam from Kwawi, 2.5km southeast of central Manokwari, when they have enough passengers.
Pantai Pasir PutihBEACH
About 5km east of town, this 600m curve of clean white sand and clear water is good for swimming, and snorkelling if you have gear. It’s generally quiet – except on Sunday when half of Manokwari invades the beach.
Taman Gunung MejaWALKING
(Table Mountain Park)
This protected forest makes an enjoyable walk if you start early enough to catch the birdlife and morning cool. A 1km walk up from Jl Brawijaya brings you to the white entrance gate, from where a fairly level 3km track, mostly paved, runs north through the forest.
After 800m the Tugu Jepang, a Japanese WWII monument, stands 100m to the left along a branch track. From the far end of the forest track, follow the paved road 600m past houses, then go left at a T-junction. This brings you in 400m to the Manokwari–Amban road, where you can catch a taksi or ojek back to town.
4Sleeping
Billy Jaya HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0986-215432; fax 0986-215827; [email protected]; Jl Merdeka 57; r incl breakfast 200,000-400,000Rp; aW)
The older, cheaper rooms (up to 290,000Rp) range from small and dark to large, windowed and acceptable. The new section is much better, with shiny tiled floors and nice white bedding. The old Vespa with side-car in the hotel lobby is an unusual talking point. The hotel offers free airport drop-offs (though, sadly, not in the Vespa).
Metro HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0986-215975; Jl Biak; r incl breakfast 300,000-500,000Rp; a)
A fair deal with small but clean rooms, with thick mattresses on the beds and pleasant staff at reception.
Swiss-BelhotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; fax 0986-212999; www.swiss-belhotel.com; Jl Yos Sudarso 8; r incl breakfast from 686,000Rp; aWs)
The best hotel in town has comfy but surprisingly tired rooms, and the restaurant (mains 72,000Rp to 300,000Rp) provides a wide range of Asian dishes, plus steaks. It’s not deserving of its four stars.
5Eating
oRumah Makan Salam ManisINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Merdeka; mains 20,000-40,000Rp; h8.30am-10pm)
Renowned far and wide for its nasi ayam panggang lalapan (grilled chicken with green vegetables and rice), this two-storey place is an excellent choice for a communal meal while sat cross-legged at low tables surrounded by pot plants on the 1st floor. Very popular with locals.
8Information
BNI BankBANK
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Yos Sudarso)
With ATM.
Police StationPOLICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Bhayangkhara; h9am-5pm)
Grab your surat jalan here. It’s 1km southeast of the port.
8Getting There & Away
Tickets for the small planes of Susi Air (www.susiair.com) are only sold at the airport, 6km southwest of town, and even then the ticket office is often only open very early in the morning (like 5am early…).
Every two weeks Pelni ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0986-215167; Jl Siliwangi 24) has five sailings each to Jayapura (economy class 431,000Rp) and Sorong (126,500Rp), four to Makassar, three to Nabire, two each to Biak and Ternate, and one each to Ambon and Banda. ASDP Indonesia Ferry’s Kasuari Pasifik IV sails to Biak (economy/1st/VIP class 50,000/120,000/150,000Rp, 15 hours) at 4pm Thursday. The KM Napan sails to Nabire via Wasior (economy/VIP 150,000/290,000Rp) on Tuesday at 5pm.
FLIGHTS FROM MANOKWARI
Destination Airline Frequency
Ambon Wings Air 4 weekly
Biak Susi Air 3 weekly
Jakarta Xpress Air, Garuda, Sriwijaya Air daily
Jayapura Garuda, Sriwijaya Air daily
Makassar Garuda (not direct), Sriwijaya Air daily
Sorong Sriwijaya Air, Xpress Air, Garuda daily
Kaimana Wings Air 3 weekly
8Getting Around
Airport taxis to town cost 100,000Rp. Some public taksi (5000Rp) pass the airport, bound for Terminal Wosi, halfway to the centre. At Wosi you might find another taksi direct to Kota (6000Rp); otherwise get one to Terminal Sanggeng, then another (or walk) to Kota. Terminal Sanggeng is the starting point for very frequent public taksi running through Kota and out to Kwawi and Pantai Pasir Putih.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
TRITON BAY
In the past few years, whispered rumours have started emerging about Triton Bay (Teluk Triton) and how, just maybe, the marine ecosystems here are even more impressive than those of Raja Ampat.
The wealth of marine life here is extraordinary. Of the many highlights are pygmy seahorses, Nursalim flasher wrasse, Triton Bay walking sharks, big pods of dolphins, marlin, groupers, sweetlips, large schools of fusiliers and surgeonfish and arguably the most spectacular soft corals in the world. And if all that weren’t enough, there’s also the big daddy of them all, whale sharks, which are attracted to the fishing bagang (platform).
So far there are around 30 identified dive sites ranging from pinnacles to shallow soft-coral gardens and drift and wall dives. The one downside is that average visibility ranges from 10m to 15m, though it can be up to 25m or as little as 5m.
Currently very few people have dived here and only a few liveaboard dive boats come through, but with the 2015 opening of the Triton Bay Divers (www.tritonbaydivers.com; Aiduma Island; 7-nights full board incl 15 dives s/d €2400/3800; hclosed Jun–mid-Sep), the first dive resort in the area, the reefs around here are about to become easier to access. The resort is set on Aiduma Island and has just four elegant, luxurious wooden cottages on a beautiful white-sand beach.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 89