Jungle HikesHIKING
The CTO visitor centre can arrange a park permit and guide to take you hiking in the Gunung Leuser National Park. A 2½ hour ‘taster’ is 360,000Rp for two people, while the full-day option for serious hikers is 990,000Rp for up to three people. Good footwear is a must; prepare to get very muddy.
Tubing
A popular activity with locals is renting a rubber tube (10,000Rp) and floating down the shallow river below Jungle Lodge and Dreamland Resort. Longer tubing adventures can be arranged by the CTO visitor centre.
4Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation in Tangkahan is limited. It’s concentrated on the opposite side of the river from where transport drops you off. All guesthouses serve simple meals.
Mega InnGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 7021 1009; www.mega-inn-tangkahan.op-het-web.be; r 200,000Rp)
The first place you come to after the river crossing has pretty bungalows made of twisted wood. Some of the bathrooms contain such a mass of foliage they could almost be classed as jungles themselves. The restaurant is a good spot for gobbling down fried noodles.
Dreamland ResortBUNGALOW$
(%0812 6963 1400; bungalow 150,000-170,000Rp; a)
Run by two friendly, young brothers who speak good English, Dreamland has three appealing A-frame cottages with private bathroom sitting partially hidden amid lush greenery. The cafe gives you a bird’s-eye view of the river.
Jungle LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
(%0813 7633 4787; www.junglelodge.net; r 120,000-170,000Rp)
The bungalows (two single and two double) at this popular place are scattered across the attractive gardens. Some have fab river views. There’s a large, thatched restaurant overlooking the bubbling river, and staff are friendly.
8Information
CTO Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(%0852 7560 5865, 0813 6142 3245; www.tangkahanecotourism.com; h8am-4pm)
Across the river from the lodges and near the bus terminal, this visitor centre organises everything from elephant bathing to jungle treks and caving; pay your fees here.
8Getting There & Away
Two direct, daily buses go to Medan’s Pinang Baris terminal (20,000Rp, four hours) at 5.30am and 7.30am.
To get to Tangkahan from Bukit Lawang, you have two options. The slow, cheap, roundabout way: take one of the many buses to Binjai (12,000Rp to 15,000Rp, 2½ hours), then connect to one of the twice-daily buses directly to Tangkahan (30,000Rp, 2½ hours) if you time it well, or take a bus to Tittamangga (26,000Rp, two hours) and from there hop on the back of a motorbike to Tangkahan (70,000Rp). The fast, pricier way: get a guide to take you directly from Bukit Lawang on a motorbike (one way/return 200,000/300,000Rp, two hours) – but be warned that the road is unpaved. Alternatively, team up with other travellers to hire a 4WD (550,000Rp to 650,00Rp, 2½ hours). Most Medan-based travel agents can also arrange 4WD transport (around 1,000,000Rp, 3½ to four hours).
Berastagi
%0628 / Pop 43,000
To escape the heat of sea-level Medan, the colonial Dutch traders climbed high into the lush, cool, volcanic hills. They took one look at the verdant, undulating landscape and decided to build a rural retreat where Berastagi (also called Brastagi) now stands at an altitude of 1300m.
Today weekending Medan folk and foreign visitors alike sigh with relief upon arriving in this highland town, where the climate is deliciously cool. Others contemplate the endless, noisy traffic of this agricultural town with resignation but console themselves with the excellent hiking prospects and visits to the outlying villages where vestiges of indigenous Karo Batak culture remain in the shape of the immense wooden houses with their soaring thatched roofs and cattle horn adornments.
Beyond the town are the green fields of the Karo Highlands, dominated by Sumatra’s two most accessible volcanoes: Gunung Sinabung to the west and the smoking Gunung Sibayak to the north. You won’t find lava in Sibayak, but Sinabung took everyone by surprise by spewing ash and lava in the summer of 2015, causing the evacuation of thousands of people resident on its foothills. Sinabung volcano is off-limits to hikers indefinitely.
Berastagi
4Sleeping
1Losmen Sibayak GuesthouseB3
2Wisma SibayakB4
5Eating
3Café RaymondB2
4Produce MarketA1
5Ruma Makan EropahA2
1Sights & Activities
There are some fine examples of traditional Karo Batak architecture in the villages around Berastagi. Most of the houses are no more than 60 years old – or possibly 100, but certainly not 400, as claimed by some guides.
oGunung SibayakVOLCANO
(guide along the road 400,000Rp, through the jungle 650,000Rp)
At 2094m, Gunung Sibayak is one of Indonesia’s most accessible volcanoes. There are three ways to tackle the climb, depending on your energy level; a guide is only essential if taking the route through the jungle, but if you’re trekking alone it’s a good idea. The hike can be done in five hours return, and you should set out as early as possible.
The easiest way is to take the track that starts to the northwest of Berastagi, a 10-minute walk past the Sibayak Multinational Resthouse. Take the left-hand path beside the hut where you pay the entrance fee. From here, it’s 7km (about three hours) to the top and fairly easy to follow, mostly along a road. Finding the path down is a little tricky. When you reach the crater, turn 90 degrees to the right (anticlockwise), climb up to the rim and start looking for the stone steps down the other side of the mountain. If you can’t find the steps, you can also go back the way you came.
Rather than trekking from Berastagi, you can catch one of the green Kama minibuses (4000Rp) to Semangat Gunung at the base of the volcano, from where it’s a two-hour climb to the summit. There are steps part of the way, but this track is narrower and in poorer condition than the one from Berastagi.
The longest option is to trek through the jungle from Air Terjun Panorama; this waterfall is on the Medan road, about 5km north of Berastagi. Allow at least five hours for the walk from here.
Trails on Sibayak volcano are neither clearly marked nor well maintained, and it is easy to get lost. During the wet season, paths can be extremely slippery or even washed out. Be prepared for abrupt weather changes, bring supplies such as food, drink, warm clothing, rain gear and a torch, in case you get caught out after dark. People have died on Sibayak, so seriously consider getting a guide. Before setting out, pick up a map from any of the guesthouses in Berastagi and peruse their guestbooks for comments and warnings about the hike.
LinggaVILLAGE
(admission 4000Rp)
The best-known and most visited of the villages around Berastagi is Lingga, a few kilometres northwest of Kabanjahe. There are about half-a-dozen traditional houses here with characteristic soaring thatched roofs topped with cattle horns. To get here, take a yellow KT minibus from Berastagi (7000Rp, 45 minutes). Some only go as far as Kabanjahe, so check first if you’ll have to change.
Some of the houses, such as the rumah rajah (king’s house), are occupied (by several families) and are in good condition. Others, including the sapo ganjang (house for young unmarried men), are unused and in various stages of decay. There may or may not be someone around to charge you for looking at their exteriors; ignore the enterprising ticket man if he offers to show you the inside of one of the houses for 50,000Rp; approach the inhabitants directly if you wish to take a peek.
DokanVILLAGE
The charming little village of Dokan is approximately 16km south of Kabanjahe. Around half-a-dozen traditional houses can be found here and they are all occupied, which immediately gives the place more interest than any of the museum-like traditional buildings you might have seen elsewhere. However, as they remain family homes you’re unlikely to be invited inside to look around. You can get here by the occasional direct minibus from Kabanjahe (7000Rp).
Rumah BolonPALACE
(admission 5000Rp; h8am-6pm)
This impressive, well-tended palace complex on the edge of the village of Pematang Purba was the home of the Simalungan Batak chiefs until 1947 when the last one died. Public transport to the site is scarce, but it’s an easy stop-off on a journey between Berastagi and Danau Toba by private car.
The site consists of a large main building that functioned as the king’s quarters and a harem. The buffalo skulls inside the main building symbolise the power of the chief. The remainder of the complex consists of meeting halls, assistants’ houses and rice-storage areas.
Gundaling HillHILL
Around 4km north of the War Monument, tree-shaded Gundaling Hill provides a unique vantage point from which you can see both Gunung Sinabung and Gunung Sibayak. It’s a 45-minute walk past the turnoff towards Sibayak or else you can catch a green Bintang Karo (4000Rp) minibus from halfway along the main street.
Air Terjun Sipiso-PisoWATERFALL
These narrow but impressive falls cascade 120m down to the northern end of Danau Toba, 24km from Kabanjahe and about 300m from the main road. It’s fairly easy to get here by yourself; take a bus from Kabanjahe to Merek (12,000Rp) and then walk or take an ojek the remaining few hundred metres.
Hot Springs
On the descent from Gunung Sibayak, you can stop off at the various hot springs (admission 5000Rp to 15,000Rp) in Semangat Gunung on the road towards Berastagi. You’ll be disappointed if you’re expecting natural springs; instead, you’ll find a complex of small concrete pools. They are best visited on the weekend; on weekdays public transport stops around 3pm or 4pm and you may face a long walk to the main road.
4Sleeping
Jl Veteran sees heavy traffic and many rooms along the main road can be very noisy. With one notable exception, the quality of accommodation in Berastagi leaves much to be desired.
Guesthouse TalithaHOMESTAY$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 7066 4252; Jl Kolam Renang 60B; r incl breakfast 100,000-150,000Rp; W)
A 15-minute walk north of the centre is this tranquil family-run guesthouse. The rooms could use a facelift, but there are hot-water showers in the pricier rooms and the friendly owners perk you up with good home-brewed coffee.
Wisma SibayakGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0628-91104; Jl Udara 1; r without bathroom 70,000-90,000Rp, with bathroom 120,000-250,000Rp; iW)
The pros: lots of travel information, a friendly family feel, spacious rooms, a central location and a decent restaurant. The cons: it’s on the main street, so some rooms are noisy, hot-water showers cost extra even in the priciest room, and there’s a 10pm curfew.
Losmen Sibayak GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0628-91122; [email protected]; Jl Veteran 119; r with/without bathroom 100,000/70,000Rp; iW)
These passable, ultra-central cheapies have a lot of Indonesian personality, making the place feel more like a homestay. However, the cheapest rooms overlook the main road and are very noisy. Wi-fi in the lobby.
oNachelle HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0813 6242 9977, 0821 6275 7658; [email protected]; r without bathroom 225,000Rp, r with bathroom 275,000-400,000Rp; W)
The friendliest of Berastagi’s lodgings is run by Mery and Abdy, who speak excellent English and will issue you with a map of the area; Abdy guides guests up Gunung Sibaya. Rooms are new and plush; the loveliest have king-sized beds and volcano views. Nachelle is 1.5km south of the giant cabbage landmark on Jl Veteran; email for directions.
Sibayak Multinational ResthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(%0628-91031; Jl Pendidikan 93; r with/without bathroom 350,000/250,000Rp)
Set in immaculate gardens and with a hill-country vibe (as long as the dogs aren’t barking), the vast, modern rooms here are a decent, if overpriced, bet. Pricier rooms have hot water. Avoid the restaurant. The hotel is a short angkot ride north of town towards Gunung Sibayak. We won’t nominate the owner for any friendly service awards.
5Eating & Drinking
The rich volcanic soils of the surrounding countryside supply much of North Sumatra’s produce, which passes through Berastagi’s colourful produce markets ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). Passionfruit is a local speciality, as is marquisa Bandung (a large, sweet, yellow-skinned fruit). The marquisa asam manis (a purple-skinned fruit) makes delicious drinks.
Most hotels have restaurants, but head into town for more diversity. Along Jl Veteran, there’s a variety of evening food stalls, as well as simple restaurants specialising in tionghoa (Chinese food). Because this is a largely Christian community, get your babi (pork) fix here. Another local favourite is pisang goreng (fried banana).
Ruma Makan EropahCHINESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Veteran 20; mains 20,000-40,000Rp; h11am-10pm; v)
Feast on pork belly soup, pork with green chilli, sweet and sour fish or a host of noodle and rice dishes at this friendly Chinese place.
Pondok Bambu AssriINDONESIAN$
(mains 20,000-30,000Rp; h11am-midnight; W)
Around 1.5km south of town, right near Nachelle Homestay, this excellent restaurant serves classic fish assam, prawn dishes, roast chicken and local greens, as well as an array of juices (soursop, marquisa etc). And – miracle of miracles! – there’s reliable wi-fi.
Café RaymondINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Trimurti 49; mains 12,000-30,000Rp; h7am-midnight; v)
Berastagi’s local bohemians hang out at Café Raymond, which serves fruit juices, beer and a mix of Indonesian and Western food, with a few Indian dishes thrown in for good measure. Enquire here about shared cars to Bukit Lawang, Medan and Lake Toba.
8Information
There are several ATMs and banks halfway between the giant cabbage landmark and the War Memorial.
Sibayak Trans Tour & TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0628-91122; [email protected]; Jl Veteran 119; h8am-5pm)
A solid port of call for almost any onward travel advice as well as local tours.
Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0628-91084; Jl Gundaling 1; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)
Has maps and can arrange trekking guides, as well as private transport to Medan, Danau Toba and Kutacane. Opening hours are rather flexible.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Veteran) is conveniently located near the centre of town. Long-distance buses pass through Berastagi en route to Kabanjahe, the local hub. You can catch buses to Medan’s Padang Bulan (15,000Rp, three to four hours) anywhere along the main street between 6am and 8pm.
The cheapest way to reach Danau Toba is to catch an angkot to Kabanjahe (5000Rp, 20 minutes), change to a bus for Pematangsiantar (28,000Rp, three hours), then connect with a Parapat-bound bus (15,000Rp, 1½ hours). For Bukit Lawang, take a bus to Pinangbari (13,000Rp, two hours) and change for Bukit Lawang (25,000Rp, three hours). Berastagi is the southern approach for visits to Gunung Leuser National Park; catch a bus to Kutacane.
A couple of private companies run a shared minibus or car services, connecting Berastagi to Bukit Lawang (170,000Rp, three to four hours), Danau Toba (to Parapat; 150,000Rp, 3½ to four hours), Medan’s Padang Bulan (100,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Medan airport (150,000Rp, three hours).
8Getting Around
Angkot to the surrounding villages leave from the bus terminal. They run every few minutes between Berastagi and Kabanjahe (10,000Rp), the major population and transport centre of the highlands. You can wave them down anywhere along the main road.
Parapat
%0625
The mainland departure point for Danau Toba, Parapat has everything a transiting tourist needs (transport, lodging and supplies). But unless you get here too late to catch a boat to Tuk Tuk, there’s no reason to overnight here.
The commercial sector of the town is clumped along the Trans-Sumatran Hwy (Jl SM Raja) and has banks, ATMs and plenty of eateries. Most buses pick up and drop off passengers at ticket agents along the highway or at the pier.
4Slee
ping
Melissa PalaceHOTEL$
(%0813 9223 6383; Jl Nelson Purba 28; r from 190,000Rp)
Melissa Palace is a friendly cheapie with featureless tiled rooms and temperamental plumbing. It’s ideal for catching the morning ferry if you get in too late to catch the last boat to Tuk Tuk.
Atsari HotelHOTEL$$
(%0852 7607 5316; Jl Kol. TPR Sinaga 9; r incl breakfast 550,000-950,000Rp; aW)
Across the road from the lakefront, this hotel is a good overnighter with clean, spacious rooms and ample breakfast.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal (Jl SM Raja) is about 2km east of town on the way to Bukittinggi, but it’s infrequently used by travellers. From here you could, however, make your way by public bus to Berastagi (48,000Rp, with two changes), Bukit Lawang (170,000Rp, seven hours), Medan (35,000Rp, five to six hours) and Sibolga (70,000Rp, seven hours).
PT Bagus Holiday (%0812 8083 8222, 0625-41747) is one of several operators next to the ferry pier that arrange tourist minibuses and car transfers to the most popular destinations. Tourist minibuses go to Berastagi (150,000Rp, four hours), Bukittinggi (180,000Rp, 16 hours), Bukit Lawang (230,000Rp, six hours), Medan (80,000Rp to 100,000Rp, four hours), Padang (285,000, 18 hours) and Sibolga (100,000Rp, six hours).
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 97