Anthropologists, however, suggest that the Minangkabau arrived in West Sumatra from the Malay Peninsula some time between 1000 and 2000 BC, probably by following Sungai Batang Hari upstream from the Strait of Melaka to the highlands of the Bukit Barisan mountains.
Even if they don’t have Alexander’s bloodline, the Minangkabau reflect his wanderlust and love of battle, albeit in the milder form of buffalo fighting. Their success in buffalo fighting is believed to have bestowed the people with their tribal name, and the horns of the beast are the focus of their architecture and traditional costumes.
The legend of how the Minangkabau named themselves begins with an imminent attack by a Javanese king. Rather than pit two armies against each other, the Minangkabau proposed a fight between two bulls. When the time came, the West Sumatrans dispatched a tiny calf to fight the enormous Javanese bull, but the half-starved calf was outfitted with sharp metal spears to its horns. Believing the Javanese bull to be its mother, the calf rushed to suckle and ripped the bull’s belly to shreds. When the bull finally dropped dead, the people of West Sumatra shouted ‘Minangkabau, minangkabau!’, which literally means, ‘The buffalo wins, the buffalo wins!’
Linguistic sticklers, though, prefer the far more prosaic explanation that Minangkabau is a combination of two words: minanga, which means ‘a river,’ and kerbau, which means ‘buffalo.’ A third theory suggests that it comes from the archaic expression pinang kabhu, which means ‘original home’ – Minangkabau being the cradle of Malay civilisation.
Padang
%0751 / Pop 877,000
An urbo-Indonesian sprawl of traffic and smog, Padang sits astride one of the planet’s most powerful seismic zones, centrally located on the tectonic hotspot where the Indo-Australian plate plunges under the Eurasian plate. Significant tremors occur on an almost annual basis, the most recent being in 2012.
Padang is to West Sumatra what Medan is to the North – a handy transport hub with excellent connections to major regional attractions, including Mentawai islands, Bukittinggi, Danau Maninjau and the Kerinci Highlands. Due to the sheer volume of backpacker and surfer traffic passing through, it also has an above-average amount of good budget accommodation and an excellent dining scene, with regional food the most globally famous of Indonesian culinary offerings.
Padang
1Sights
1Adityawarman MuseumB2
2Colonial QuarterC4
2Activities, Courses & Tours
3Sumatran SurfariisC3
4Sleeping
4Brigitte's HouseB4
5Golden HomestayA4
6Grand Zuri HotelC2
7HW HotelB3
8New House PadangB3
9Savali HotelB3
10Yani's HomestayA3
5Eating
11Hoya BakeryB3
12Nelayan RestaurantA3
13Pagi SoreC3
14Pak Tri'sB3
15Pondok Indah JayaC3
16Safari GardenA2
17Sari RasoC2
18Simpang RayaB2
7Shopping
19Pasar RayaB1
1Sights
Colonial QuarterNEIGHBOURHOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Although damaged in the 2009 earthquake, Padang’s colonial-era quarter around Jl Batang Arau is still worth a lazy stroll. Old Dutch and Chinese warehouses back onto a river brimming with fishing boats. The beach along Jl Samudera is the best place to watch the sunset.
Adityawarman MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro; admission 2500Rp; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun)
Adityawarman Museum, built in the Minangkabau tradition, has pleasant grounds and the exhibits are a thorough introduction to everyday Minangkabau life. A healthy imagination helps, since the exhibits are in Bahasa Indonesia. The entrance is on Jl Gereja.
TTours
Padang is the launching point for tours of the Mentawai Islands, which are famous for their hunter-gatherer culture, endemic flora and fauna, and world-class surfing. Local travel agencies can also arrange tours around the surrounding Minangkabau heartland of West Sumatra.
oRegina AdventuresTOUR, SURFING
(%0751-781 0835, 0812 6774 5464; www.reginaadventures.com; 10-day surf packages per person from US$450)
Reliable local operator Elvis offers trekking on the Mentawai Islands, trips to Danau Maninjau and Bukittinggi, and ascents of Gunung Merapi and Gunung Kerinci. Check the website for good-value surf trips to Mentawai and Krui further south.
Nando Sumatra ToursCULTURAL TOUR
(%0812 6672 8800, 0852 6335 7645; www.nandosumatratour.com; Jl Tanjung Indah I blok E; 10-day Mentawai treks from per person US$700)
A young, up-and-coming company with friendly owner Nando at the helm. Arranges 10-day Mentawai cultural immersion tours, as well as tours of North and West Sumatra and trekking around Danau Maninjau.
Sumatran SurfariisSURFING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-34878; www.sumatransurfariis.com; Komplek Pondok Indah B 12, Parak Gadang)
Long-established Mentawai surf-boat charter company with three boats to whisk you off on a 10- to 14-day wave hunt to the Mentawais. Nias, Aceh, Telo and the Banyaks are also options. A 10-day ‘surfari’ typically costs between US$2750 and US$3300.
zFestivals & Events
Pesta Budaya TabuikCULTURAL
A West Sumatran cultural calendar highlight is Pesta Budaya Tabuik (derived from the Islamic festival of Tabut), which is held in Pariaman, 36km north of Padang. It takes place at the beginning of the month of Muharam (based on the Islamic lunar calendar, usually January or February) to honour the martyrdom of Muhammad’s grandchildren, Hassan and Hussein, at the battle of Kerbala.
Central to the festival is the bouraq (a winged horse-like creature with the head of a woman), believed to have descended to earth to collect the souls of dead heroes and take them to heaven.
Dragon Boat FestivalSPORTS
Held in July or August, this festival involves boat racing competitions between international teams. Check details on Facebook.
4Sleeping
Brigitte’s HouseHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 7425 7162; http://brigittehouse.blogspot.com; Jl Kampung Sebalah 1/14; dm/s/d from 95,000/100,000/230,000Rp; aW)
Brigitte’s has a relaxed and homely ambience, with backpackers chilling in the common area or mingling on the porch. This residential neighbourhood is quiet and leafy, and Brigitte is a treasure trove of information on buses, ferries and Mentawai adventures (and can help you with bookings). A short walk away is the separate building with air-con rooms.
Yani’s HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 6380 1686; [email protected]; d 80,000Rp, r 120,000-175,000Rp, all incl breakfast; aW)
Run by friendly young owner Yuliuz, this central homestay provides bona fide backpacker digs in the form of an air-con dorm with lockers and rooms with colourful bedspreads. If you don’t want to share your bathroom, splurge on the standard double. Motorbikes are available for guest use (60,000Rp per day).
Golden HomestayHOMESTAY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-32616; Jl Nipah Berok 1B; r 200,000-375,000Rp; aW)
Spotless private rooms named after Sydney's classic surfing beaches. Grab a bed in the cheaper Bronte room, or splash out on the Bondi or Manly rooms with private bathrooms.
oNew House PadangGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-25982; www.newhouse.padanghostel.com; Jl HOS Cokroaminoto 104; r incl breakfast 250,000-300,000Rp; aW)
Now run by the same folks at Brigitte’s House, this friendly and relaxed guesthouse is perfect for groups of friends and surfers. A compact Zen garden combines with colourful rooms (some with terrace), contemporary artwork and a vast common area. The owners are on hand to advise about onward travel to the islands or Bukittinggi.
HW HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-893500; www.hwhotelpadang.com; Jl Hayam Wuruk 16; r incl breakfast 480,000-750,000Rp; aWs)
Modern and
fairly spacious rooms in a central, post-earthquake hotel. We particularly like the compact rooftop pool and the friendliness and helpfulness of the staff. There’s room for negotiation on the rates, especially on weekends.
Savali HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-27660; www.savalihotel.com; Jl Hayam Wuruk 31; r incl breakfast 545,000-860,000Rp; aWs)
The centrally located Savali is just a short stroll from the beach and good restaurants. The hotel’s 23 rooms are set around a Zen-style garden, English is spoken at reception and there’s definitely an open mind to negotiation on room rates. The compact swimming pool is welcome on sultry equatorial afternoons and there’s a good coffee shop next door.
Grand Zuri HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-894888; www.grandzuri.com/padang; Jl Thamrin; r 670,000-1,250,000Rp; aW)
A little out of the centre, this slick new business hotel features spacious, contemporary rooms with polished wooden floors, large bathrooms, sumptuous mattresses and a decent 24-hour restaurant. Other perks include a gym and spa and an entire floor catering to nonsmokers. A good treat to your battered body if you’ve just spent a week roughing it on the Mentawais.
5Eating & Drinking
Padang is the birth mother of the cuisine that migrated across Indonesia and you can pay homage to the native cooks with a visit to one of these famous franchises: Pagi Sore ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pondok 143; dishes 9000Rp; hlunch & dinner), Sari Raso ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Karya 3; dishes 10,000Rp; hlunch & dinner) and Simpang Raya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Bundo Kandung; dishes 8000Rp; hlunch & dinner).
Jl Batang Arau is full of cheap warungs that spring to life at night, while discerning foodies head for Jl Pondok and Jl HOS Cokroaminoto. Juice wagons loiter near the end of Jl Hayam Wuruk. For cheap sate, grilled seafood and a few cold Bintangs (Indonesian beer), head to the beachfront shacks lining Jl Sumadera at sunset.
Pondok Indah JayaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Niaga 138; meals around 40,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
This warung is an excellent intro to Padang cuisine, your feast of dishes including spicy tofu, beef rendang, ayam sambal and tempe. Cool the fire in your mouth with some sirsak (soursop), cucumber or mango juice.
Hoya BakeryBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl HOS Cokroaminoto 48; snacks/meals around 7000/20,000Rp; hbreakfast & lunch)
Padang’s go-to spot for freshly baked sweet and savoury goodies. Friendly shop assistants will guide you around the selection before steering you to a colourful table. There are also good burgers, sandwiches and pasta, and the juices and smoothies are soothing antidotes to Padang’s tropical buzz.
oPak Tri’sSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl HOS Cokroaminoto 91; meals from 50,000Rp; h5pm-late)
The fish and squid are flame-grilled to perfection with a sweet, spicy sambal sauce here. The fresh-every-afternoon marine selection includes shoals of different fish and squid, with a supporting cast of kangkung (water spinach) and aubergine dishes. Grab a spot at the shared tables and tuck in for a quintessential Padang experience, occasionally accompanied by the serenading of street minstrels.
Nelayan RestaurantSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Samudera; mains 35,000-60,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)
Great seafood the Chinese way, cold beers and one of the best Padang sunset views at this three-storey establishment. Treat yourself to grilled prawns or pepper crab, but definitely ask the price before you dig in. We’re pretty partial to a chilled Bintang with the cumi asam manis (squid in a sweet and sour sauce).
Safari GardenSTEAK$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Samudera 16; mains 50,000-350,000Rp; hfrom 5pm; aW)
The menu at this bright, contemporary restaurant is the discerning carnivore’s dream, with tenderloin, T-bone and sirloin dominating the list. The nice cuts of Angus and even Wagyu beef are cooked to specification, the fruit juices are unadulterated, nonsugary delight, and non-meaty options include fish and chips and pasta. The service is young, friendly and prompt.
PADANG CUISINE
With nasi Padang (Padang cuisine), you sit down and the whole kit and caboodle gets laid out in front of you. You decide which ones look tasty and push the others aside, only paying for what you eat.
The drawback is that you never really know what you’re eating, since there’s no menu. If the dish contains liquid, it is usually a coconut-milk curry, a major component of Padang cuisine. The meaty dishes are most likely beef or buffalo, occasionally offal or (less likely) even dog.
The most famous Padang dish is rendang, chunks of beef or buffalo simmered slowly in coconut milk until the sauce is reduced to a rich paste and the meat becomes dark and dried. Other popular dishes include telor balado (egg dusted with red chilli), ikan panggang (fish baked in coconut and chilli) and gulai merah kambing (red mutton curry).
Most couples pick one or two meat dishes and a vegetable, usually kangkung (water spinach), and load up with a plate or two of rice. Carbs are manna in Padang cuisine. Vegetarians should ask for tempe or tahu (tofu), which comes doctored up in a spicy sambal.
Before digging into the meal with your right hand, wash up in the provided bowl of water. Food and sauces should be spooned onto your plate of rice, then mixed together with the fingers. The rice will be easier to handle if it is a little wet. Use your fingers to scoop up the food, and your thumb to push it into your mouth. It’s messy even for the locals.
Padang cuisine has an earthy spiciness that might need a little sweet tea or water as a chaser. There is usually a tumbler of lukewarm water (a sign that it has been boiled for sterilisation) on the table.
7Shopping
Pasar RayaMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Raya)
Pasar Raya – literally ‘big market’ – is the centre of Padang’s shopping universe; come here for anything from fresh fruit to clothes. It’s next to the large new mall.
8Information
There are ATMs all over town.
BNI BankBANK
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Nipah Berok)
Has an ATM dispensing up to 2,000,000Rp.
Imigrasi OfficeIMMIGRATION OFFICE
(%0751-444511; Jl Khatib Sulaiman; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Thirty-day visa extensions can be obtained for US$35 at the Padang Imigrasi office. It’s about 5km out of town by ojek or taxi.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Azizchan 7; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Near the corner of Jl M Yamin and Jl Azizchan.
Rumah Sakit Yos SudarsoHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-33230; Jl Situjuh 1)
Privately owned hospital.
Tourism PadangTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-34186; Dinas Kebudayaan Dan Pariwisata, Jl Samudera 1; h7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Maps of town and a few English-language regional brochures.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Padang’s airport, Bandara Internasional Minangkabau (BIM; http://minangkabau-airport.co.id; Jl Adinegoro), is located 20km north of town.
Boat
Padang is regularly connected to the Mentawai Islands by boat.
Bus
Tranex (%0751-705 8577) buses depart for Bukittinggi (20,000Rp) from the city’s northern fringes, outside the Wisma Indah building. It’s half the price of a door-to-door minibus but it means you have to catch any white angkot (3000Rp) heading north on Jl Permuda (ask for ‘Tranex’ or ‘Wisma Indah’), and then find transport from Bukittinggi bus terminal, which is miles from the centre. In reality you save very little money.
Minibuses to Bukittinggi and other destinations depart from a variety of offices scattered around the city and offer a door-to-door service. Ask your lodgings to arrange a pick up.
The minibuses most relevant to travellers depart from Jl Jhoni Anwar. PO Sinar Kerinci (%0751-783 1299; Jl Jhni Anwar Q4) has regular departures to Sungai Penuh (for Kerinci Seblat National Park). Putra Mandau (%075
1-782 2218; Jl Jhoni Anwar) links Padang to Dumai if you’re travelling to/from Sumatra by sea from Malaysia or Singapore. Catch an angkot (3000Rp) north along Jl Permuda and Jl S Parman, get off at the white mosque around 5km north of central Padang, and turn right into Jl Jhoni Anwar.
TRANSPORT FROM PADANG
AIR
Destination Airline Frequency
Kuala Lumpur AirAsia 2 daily
Jakarta Citilink, Garuda, Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air 19 daily
Medan Lion Air, Sriwijaya Air 3 daily
Pulau Batam Citilink, Lion Air 5 daily
BUS
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr) Frequency
Bukittinggi 20,000 3 hourly until 6pm
Jambi 165,000-190,000 11 2 daily
Parapat (for Danau Toba) 180,000 18 daily at 1pm
Sungai Penuh 130,000 7-8 9am, 10am, 7pm, 8pm
8Getting Around
Airport taxis charge around 150,000Rp from the airport, but 300,000Rp to the airport. If you’re travelling light, step outside the airport boundaries and hail an ojek to get to central Padang. White Damri ( GOOGLE MAP ; %780 6335) buses (35,000Rp) are a cheaper alternative that loop through Padang, though there are no clearly designated stops and they run to an erratic schedule. If you’re fortunate enough to catch one, tell the conductor your accommodation and street and they’ll drop you at the right stop. If you’re coming from Bukittinggi, pretty much all lodgings can arrange a cheap and convenient airport drop-off service (40,000Rp) in a shared minibus.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 104