The cost of hiring a klotok varies with its size. They range from small (two to four passengers, 450,000Rp to 550,000Rp per day) to large (eight to 10 passengers, 650,000Rp to 1,000,000Rp per day), including captain, mate and fuel. Cooks are an additional 100,000Rp per day, with food on top of that. When you factor in a guide (150,000Rp to 250,000Rp per day), permits (150,000Rp per person per day) and boat parking fees (100,000Rp per boat per day) the total cost for a three-day, two-night guided trip for two people easily tops 4,000,000Rp, even if you painstakingly haggle every step of the way.
Considering these prices, the hassle, transport to and from the airport, and all the other moving parts, the additional cost you may pay going through a reasonably priced company suddenly feels more affordable.
4Sleeping
If you're looking to stay outside the park (typically before or after your cruise), try Kumai or Pangkalan Bun; the latter offers the only upscale accommodation in the area.
oFlora HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(%0812 516 4727; r 500,000Rp, set meals 75,000Rp)
Located directly on the river at the end of Sekonyer village, these rough-hewn wood cabins provide everything you need for a truly immersive Borneo experience. Pak Bana is eager to please, even offering to boil up water if you require a hot shower. Tours to a feeding station, canoe trips and jungle trekking are all available.
Rimba LodgeHOTEL$$$
(%0361-747 4205; www.rimbaecolodge.com; s incl breakfast US$100-140, d incl breakfast US$110-150; a)
Toeing a delicate line between resort and forest hut, Rimba achieves success in design and comfort, but falls short in maintenance and staff attentiveness. Although it is located near Sekonyer, access to the village is via a sketchy balance-beam path hidden behind the maintenance shed. The recent addition of solar panels lends more credence to the eco-claims.
8Getting There & Around
Tanjung Puting is typically reached via a flight to nearby Pangkalan Bun, then taxi to Kumai (150,000Rp, 20 minutes).
Independent travellers must register at Pangkalan Bun police station upon arrival. Bring photocopies of your passport and visa (airport taxi drivers know the steps). This can also be organised by your guide.
Speedboats from Kumai cost 700,000Rp per day, and take about two hours to reach Camp Leakey, but this is pure transport, not wildlife-spotting.
For the cheapest route to Sekonyer village, take a ferry from Kumai across the bay (5000Rp), then an ojek (25,000Rp, 30 minutes) to the village.
Canoes are a quiet alternative for exploring the river's shallow tributaries, and can be rented at Sekonyer village store for 50,000Rp per day.
Kumai
%0532 / Pop 25,000
The port of departure for Tanjung Puting National Park, Kumai is also known for its bird's-nest business, which fills the town with screeching warehouses. A handful of guesthouses and warungs line the main street, Jl HM Idris. Backpackers sometimes meet here to share the price of a klotok. There is an ATM downriver near the port, and the national park dock is upriver on the edge of town.
4Sleeping & Eating
Permata HijauGUESTHOUSE$
(%0532-61325; Jl HM Idris, near Bank BNI; r with fan/air-con 100,000/175,000Rp; a)
These budget rooms are clean, though you might find the electrical wiring a touch shocking. Located in the middle of the busy dockside nightlife, where food stalls and high jinks abound.
Mentari HotelHOTEL$
(Jl Gerliya 98; r with cold mandi/hot shower 150,000/200,000Rp; a)
Basic concrete boxes, although they do have windows and air-con. It's 600m away from the river.
Majid HotelHOTEL$$
(%0532-61740; Jl HM Idris; r incl breakfast 250,000Rp)
The first place in town built with Western tourists in mind has all the right amenities. Owner Majid also has several klotok and can help solo travellers find shared boats. Upriver near the park dock.
oAcil LailaINDONESIAN$
(Jl Gerilya 5; mains 15,000Rp; h7.30am-10pm)
Don't let the oodles of offal waiting to be skewered throw you off: this place does a mean grilled chicken and a divine nasi bakar (seasoned rice wrapped in a banana leaf and charred to perfection).
8Getting There & Away
Get to Kumai from Pangkalan Bun via the morning minibus (20,000Rp, 20 minutes), an ojek (50,000Rp), or Kijang (100,000Rp).
Taxis from Pangkalan Bun airport to Kumai cost 150,000Rp, maximum three people.
Ferries run by Pelni (%0532-24420; Jl HM Idris; hon days when boats arrive 8-11am & 2-4pm) and Dharma Lautan Utama (%0532-61520; Jl Bahari 561) connect Kumai with Semarang (200,000Rp, 28 hours) once or twice weekly, and Surabaya (220,000Rp, 26 hours) almost daily.
Anggun Jaya Travel (%0532-61096, 0812 5366 2967; Jl Gerilya) sells boat, plane and Yessoe bus tickets.
Pangkalan Bun
%0532 / Pop 200,000
Pangkalan Bun is largely a transit city, but with a few hidden surprises. Unlike many Kalimantan towns, the residents here have embraced the river instead of turning their backs on it, making a stroll up the boardwalk a colourful and engaging experience. If you want something better than backpacker digs before or after visiting Tanjung Puting, you'll only find it here.
1Sights & Activities
Wander downriver along the Sungai Arut boardwalk to experience life before concrete and asphalt. Brightly painted ces (long-tail canoes) are parked between equally festive floating outhouses and fish farms. In the afternoon, children swim or fly kites while women pound spices. If you tire from walking, wave to almost any boat to take you back (negotiable, roughly 50,000Rp per hour)
Istana KuningPALACE
(Yellow Palace; GOOGLE MAP ; donations accepted; h8am-1pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat, closed Sun)
The mostly empty hilltop palace overlooking Pangkalan Bun Park celebrates three architectural traditions of the sultans' assorted wives: Chinese, Dayak and Malay. Built in 1806 (and rebuilt in 1990 after a deranged woman burned it to the ground) it is not yellow, but was traditionally draped in yellow fabric.
Nearby, rambling Istana Pangeran Mangkubumi ( GOOGLE MAP ; hopen by luck, or by appointment), built to house the sultan's seven daughters, fights against gravity among well-kept gardens.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel TiaraHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-22717; Jl P Antasari 16; r fan/air-con 120,000/170,000Rp; a)
With its high-ceilinged, well-maintained, convenient and cheap rooms, Hotel Tiara is a great backpacker stay. A new addition next door promises to provide even more options.
oYayorin HomestayHOMESTAY$$
(Yayasan Orangutan Indonesia; GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-29057; [email protected]; Jl Bhayangkara Km1; r incl breakfast 300,000Rp)S
Woven rattan walls. Solar-powered lights. Verdant woodland setting. These peaceful cottages are a fundraising effort by Yayorin, a local NGO working to preserve Kalimantan's forests through education and community engagement. About 7km south of town; take Jl HM Rafi'i at the paratrooper roundabout.
Arsela HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-28808; www.arselahotel.com; Jl Iskandar 15; r superior/deluxe incl breakfast 435,000/495,000Rp; aW)
This architecturally compelling building with attached cafe sat empty for years before being lovingly brought back to life as a comfortable boutique hotel with lots of class. Set back from the road, the upstairs rooms have wood accents, rattan furniture, and a luxurious rain shower in the well-trimmed bathroom.
Downstairs rooms are comfy, clean basic affairs which lack the charm of their siblings. Enjoy a simple nasi goreng breakfast on the back lawn.
Swiss-BelinnHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-27888; www.swiss-belhotel.com; Jl Ahmad Yani Km2; r incl breakfast 750,000-1,200,000Rp; aW)
Lacking originality or charm, this chain hotel sits on the far edge of town, hoping its impressive breakfast buffet (95,000Rp for nonguests, 6am to 9am) and polished service will compensate for the fraying edges and dearth of character. Th
e Royal Suite (2,700,000Rp) does get you a bathtub for a long soak after your rainforest adventure.
Iduna Bakery & CaféBAKERY$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-21031; Jl Rangga Santrek 42; snacks/mains 20,000/30,000Rp; h9am-9pm; a)
Choose from a variety of fresh pastries next door, before sliding into a contemporary, air-conditioned space with stuffed chairs and cool lighting. Good luck explaining the concept of an Americano.
PrambananSEAFOOD$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-2126; Jl Hasanudin; mains 40,000Rp; h7am-9pm)
Average chicken. Above average fish. Next to Hotel Andika, this semi-al-fresco restaurant is renowned among locals and expats. The low-key, friendly vibe epitomises Pangkalan Bun.
8Information
Many businesses close late in the afternoon and reopen after dark.
Apotik Pondok SehatPHARMACY
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-21167; Jl P Antasari 86)
Well-stocked pharmacy with doctors' offices.
BNI BankBANK
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl P Antasari)
Buys crisp US$100 notes only.
Pahala NetINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kasumayuda; per hour 4000Rp; h8.30am-9pm; a)
Quick internet connection.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kasumayuda 29)
8Getting There & Away
Air
KalstarAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-21266; Jl Hassanudin 39)
TriganaAIRLINE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-27115; Jl Iskandar 3; h8am-4.30pm & 6.30-9.30pm)
FLIGHTS FROM PANGKALAN BUN
Destination Company Fare (Rp) Duration Frequency
Banjarmasin Kalstar, Trigana 520,000 1½hr 1-2 daily
Jakarta Kalstar, Trigana 700,000 1¼hr 2 daily
Ketapang Kalstar, Trigana 400,000 40min 2 daily
Pontianak Kalstar, Trigana 700,000 2hr 2 daily
Sampit Kalstar 400,000 30min 1 daily
Semarang Kalstar, Trigana 500,000 45min 2 daily
Surabaya Kalstar, Trigana 600,000 1hr 2 daily
Bus
DAMRI's (%0812 5186 3651; Nantai Suka Terminal) service to Pontianak (350,000Rp, 13 hours, daily at 7am) and all Logos ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-24954; Jl Pangeran Antasari ) buses depart from Terminal Nantai Suka ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Jend A Yani), while Yessoe Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532-21276; Jl Kawitan 68) services depart from its own office. Destinations aboard Logos and Yessoe include Sampit (85,000Rp, six hours), Palangka Raya (125,000Rp, 12 hours), and Banjarmasin (175,000Rp to 290,000Rp, 16 hours).
8Getting Around
Taxis to/from the airport (8km) cost 70,000Rp.
Opelet around town cost 10,000Rp.
Minibuses to Kumai (20,000Rp, 20 minutes) leave across from Hotel Abadi. Taxis to Kumai start at 100,000Rp.
Palangka Raya
%0536 / Pop 220,000
Originally envisioned by President Sukarno as a new capital city for Indonesia – and even for a pan-Asian state – Palangka Raya was built beginning in 1957. It shows in the refreshingly ordered streets and wide boulevards. While Sukarno's dream died, the city has a few surprises in store, including Kalimantan's only high-end jungle river cruise, two luxury hotels, some trendy cafes and a spot of nightlife. The market and old town are east, while government buildings and sprawl are west.
Palangka Raya
1Sights
1Pasar MalamD2
4Sleeping
2Hotel Dian WisataA2
3Hotel MahkotaD1
4Hotel SakuraC2
5Eating
5Al Mu'MinunD2
6FamilyD2
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Coffee GarageB3
1Sights
Museum BalangaMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Cilik Riwut Km2.5; admission 15,000Rp; h7.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat & Sun)
An excellent, if small, museum introducing just enough Dayak ritual, custom and livelihood to inspire you to head into the forest in search of the real thing.
Old TownAREA
This network of boardwalks connecting wooden shops and houses lines the riverbank downstream of the planned city. The atmosphere here is more relaxed, and the smiles bigger.
Pasar MalamMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The food stalls around Jl Halmahera and Jl Jawa run all day, but the the maze of shops here comes alive at night.
Borneo Orangutan Survival FoundationWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%0536-330 8416; www.orangutan.or.id; Jl Cilik Riwut Km28; admission by donation; h9am-3pm Sat & Sun)S
The centre is typically closed to visitors, in order to increase the rehabilitation success of its some 600 orangutans. The tiny visitor's centre opens on the weekends; you can see a few caged animals through its large windows. It is 2km from the main road. Follow signs for the arboretum.
WORTH A TRIP
SEBANGAU NATIONAL PARK: MEET PEAT
Spared the destruction of the Mega Rice Project, this area of peat swamp forest was gazetted as Sebangau National Park in 2004. Although it has seen its share of degradation, Sebangau is still home to over 5000 wild orangutans, and the forest itself is a fascinating draw.
Peat forms over thousands of years as organic material accumulates in seasonally flooded regions. The semidecayed material can extend as deep as 20m below the surface, and contains more carbon than the forest growing above. Due to habitat loss, nearly half of the mammals and one-third of the bird species found in peat swamps are endangered or threatened.
Travelling through a peat forest ranges from delightfully challenging to extremely adventurous. During the dry season, the uneven spongy trail will occasionally give way as your foot plunges into a pocket of wet peat. During the rainy season, you may spend significant stretches submerged to your knees or chest as you hunt for hornbills, red leaf and proboscis monkeys, and sun bears. Travelling by boat between ranger posts and dry hills makes for an extraordinary adventure through the true wilds of Borneo.
The closest access from Palangka Raya is Sungai Koran on the north edge of the park. Take a regular angkot (10,000Rp, 40 minutes) south to Dermaga Kereng Bangkirai and talk to the rangers at the national park post. If nobody is around, try calling Pak Ian (0852 2191 9160). Expenses include 150,000Rp per day for park entrance, 150,000Rp per day for a guide, and 250,000Rp per day for boat rental plus fuel. If you wish to stay overnight at any of the ranger posts (recommended), you'll also need a cook (90,000Rp) and food. The west edge of the park is less degraded and is accessible via a two-hour drive to Baun Bango, where you can check in with the park rangers and arrange a boat to the outpost on Punggualas Lake.
TTours
oWow BorneoBOAT TOUR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0536-322 2099; www.wowborneo.com; Jl Barito 11; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)S
Take everything you think you know about river travel in Kalimantan and throw it in the water. Wow Borneo's river cruises up the Sungai Rungan prove that exploring the jungle and its inhabitants doesn't have to be an exercise in stoic suffering. Built on the hulls of traditional wooden boats, their fleet of four cruisers offers amenities such as air-conditioned en-suite cabins and rattan sofas on the split-level decks.
It's all run by charming, professional staff with a wealth of area knowledge.
Blue BetangADVENTURE TOUR
(%0813 4965 5021; [email protected]; 9916 Jl Beliang 29)
Honest and earnest guide Dodi specialises in hands-on, immersive, affordable, go-anywhere travel deep into Dayak country. Pig trapping, anyone? Also provides day trips in the immediate vicinity of Palangka Raya.
4Sleeping
Hotel MahkotaHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536-322 1672; Jl Nias 5; r fan/air-con 100,000/190,000-375,000Rp; aW)
Popular with students and families, this hotel offers a range of ageing basic, clean rooms in a good location for exploring the market, river and old town. Hot-water showers start with the VIP rooms (275,000Rp). Wi-fi in lobby only.
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Hotel Dian WisataHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536-322 1241; Jl Ahmad Yani 68; r with fan/air-con incl breakfast 150,000/230,000Rp; a)
The odd design of this hotel, with its central well-lit atrium and colourful stairwell leading down to subterranean rooms, separates it from the boring concrete boxes that define its competition.
Hotel SakuraHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0536-322 1680; Jl Ahmad Yani 87; r incl breakfast 300,000-400,000Rp; a)
This hotel's courtyard, populated with concrete critters, offers a welcome respite from the city. Some of the rooms have two-person tubs; the best overlook the courtyard.
Aquarius Boutique HotelHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0536-324 2121; www.aquariusboutiquehotels.com; Jl Imam Bonjol 5; d incl breakfast 685,000-950,000Rp; aWs)
A rooftop pool with a view. A 2nd-floor restaurant with a waterfall. A three-storey lounge, dance club, and karaoke complex. This hotel has all the trimmings, if a lack of upkeep. All room classes are the same size, but have increasingly plush details. Avoid floors five and six due to noise.
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 117