Makassar
1Top Sights
1Fort RotterdamA3
1Sights
2Masjid Amirul MukmininB6
Museum Negeri La GaligoA3
4Sleeping
3Asoka HomestayB6
4Aston MakassarB4
5Favehotel Daeng TompoB4
6Ge Jac MartB6
7Hotel YasminB3
8Makassar Breeze Place ResidenceD6
9New Legend HotelB3
10Novotel Makassar Grand ShaylaC4
11Santika HotelB5
5Eating
12BistropolisB4
13Fish WarungsA3
14Kampoeng PopsaA3
15Lae LaeB5
16RM NelayanB5
17Rumah Makan Pate'neB2
18SentosaA4
6Drinking & Nightlife
19Ballairate Sunset BarA4
20Kafe KarebaA4
21Kios SemarangA4
22LevelB6
23Zona CafeA3
3Entertainment
Studio 21D7
7Shopping
24Makassar MallC2
25Ratu Indah MallD7
1Sights
oFort RotterdamHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan; h8am-6pm)F
One of the best-preserved examples of Dutch architecture in Indonesia, Fort Rotterdam continues to guard the harbour of Makassar. A Gowanese fort dating back to 1545 once stood here, but failed to keep out the Dutch. The original fort was rebuilt in Dutch style, and includes many fine, well-restored colonial structures. You can walk the enclave's ramparts and see sections of the original walls.
Inside you'll find the Museum Negeri La Galigo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan, Fort Rotterdam; admission Rp10,000; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun), the collection of which is divided between two buildings.
The museum has an assortment of exhibits, including sailing boats, rice bowls from Tana Toraja, kitchen tools, musical instruments and ethnic costumes.
Pelabuhan PaoterePORT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Paotere Harbour; admission 5000Rp)
Pelabuhan Paotere, 4km north of the city centre, is a large port where Bugis sailing ships berth. There's usually lots of activity on the dock and in the huge fish market a few streets south, which is one of Indonesia's biggest. Pelabuhan Paotere is one of the most atmospheric parts of the city from dawn until mid-morning, when giant tuna and every sea creature imaginable are traded.
Masjid Amirul MukmininMOSQUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan)F
Rising above the sea at the southern end of Pantai Losari, this elegant twin-domed structure (constructed using concrete piles driven into the seabed) is known as the 'floating mosque'. Visitors of all faiths are welcome. Built in 2009 it enjoys fine coastal views, and the landscaped area around the mosque is the place to break the daily fast during Ramadan.
Benteng SungguminasaFORT
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl KH Wahid Hasyim; h8am-4pm)F
This ancient fort, once the seat of the Sultan of Gowa, is 12km south of Makassar town centre at Sungguminasa. The complex here includes examples of traditional Sulawesi architecture and houses the rather dilapidated Museum Balla Lompoa, which displays local artefacts. Unfortunately it's all rather unloved and forgotten.
Red pete-pete marked 'S Minasa' head to Sungguminasa from Makassar Mall.
Makam Sultan HasanuddinTOMB
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pallantiang, off Jl Sultan Hasanuddin)F
Seven kilometres from town on the southeastern outskirts of Makassar, Makam Sultan Hasanuddin memorialises a 17th-century ruler of Gowa. Outside the tomb compound you'll find the Pelantikan Stone, on which the kings of Gowa were crowned. To get here take a red pete-pete marked 'S Minasa' from Makassar Mall to the turn-off for the 1km walk to the tomb.
WHAT’S IN A NAME?
From the early 1970s until 1999 the official name of Makassar was Ujung Pandang. During his final days as president, BJ Habibie made the popular decision to change the name back to Makassar. In reality both names are still used, as they have been for centuries, and neither title is politically charged.
4Sleeping
Makassar's sleeping options are improving but still quite limited, and good budget places are hard to find. A number of excellent new midrange hotels have opened in recent years, and more are under construction.
Most of the best options are within walking distance of the waterfront.
oDodo's HomestayHOMESTAY$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 412 9913; http://dodopenman.blogspot.co.uk; Jl Abdul Kadir Komplex Hartaco Indah Blok 1Y/25; s/d incl breakfast 75,000/100,000Rp; aW)
An excellent homestay owned by Dodo, a superfriendly local who's been assisting travellers for more than 20 years. His home is a spacious, air-conditioned house in a quiet neighbourhood 4km south of the centre; one of the rooms has an en-suite bathroom. There's free tea and coffee, and Dodo arranges transport (including motorbike and car rental) and tours around Sulawesi.
The homestay can be reached by public transport; contact Dodo for exact directions.
New Legend HotelHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-363-2123; http://newlegendhotel.com; Jl Jampea 1; dm/r/ste incl breakfast from 123,000/242,000/440,000Rp; aW)
In a convenient Chinatown location, this new place is owned by the same helpful people who used to run Makassar's only hostel. Their new venture is primarily a modern hotel, with clean, well-presented rooms, all with TV/DVD, air-con and en-suite bathrooms (with hot water), though the cheapest lack windows. The city's only dorms are fan cooled and have shared bathrooms.
oGe Jac MartHOMESTAY$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-859-421; http://ge-jacmart-homestay.blogspot.co.uk; Jl Rambutan 3; r incl breakfast 290,000Rp; aW)
This is a wonderful place to stay, just off the seafront. It's run by the Pongrekun family (originally from Tana Toraja), who are hospitable, speak good English and enjoy looking after guests. The modern, immaculately clean family home has whitewashed walls and a splashes of art, and the seven very comfortable rooms each include a private bathroom with hot water.
It's located on a quiet lane just south of Jalan Kenari, near the Masjid Amirul Mukminin, the 'floating mosque'.
Novotel Makassar Grand ShaylaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-361-9444; www.novotel.com; Jl Charil Anwar 28; r incl breakfast from 640,000Rp; aWs)
This sleek, new contemporary hotel makes a fine base in the city, offering guests a 25m pool, a gym, a spa and really well equipped modern rooms that have fast wi-fi and luxury bedding. It's located about a 10-minute walk from the waterfront.
Favehotel Daeng TompoHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-363-9777; www.favehotels.com; Jl Daeng Tompo 28-36; r incl breakfast from 368,000Rp; aiW)
The boutique-style Favehotel represents good value given its fine location on a quiet street five minutes' walk from the beach. Rooms are not huge, but they are modish and inviting, and have quality beds with crisp linen and hip en-suite shower rooms. There's a cafe-restaurant on-site.
Santika HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-363-2233; www.santika.com; Jl Sultan Hasanuddin 40; r incl breakfast from 642,000Rp; aiW)
The modern, slightly edgily designed Santika isn’t well located for views, but the rooms are plush and have calming beige-and-white decor. Rates for walk-ins can be cheaper than booking online.
Makassar Breeze Place ResidenceHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0896 5007 3932; [email protected]; Jl Monginsidi 26E; r incl breakfast 295,000Rp; aW)
The bright, modern accommodation in this apartment-hotel complex offers fine value and comfort, and includes flat-screen TVs, kitchen facilities and attractive bathrooms. It has a high standard of cleanliness, and serves generous breakfasts in the block's communal dining room. The staff speak limited English, but do their best to help out travellers.
Asoka HomestayHOMESTAY$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-873-476; Jl Yosep Latumahina; r incl breakfast 250,0
00-300,000Rp; aW)
Just steps from the waterfront, this quiet homestay with its lacy, decorative frills may feel like your granny's house. Asoka offers spacious and airy, though slightly dated rooms, with private cold-water bathrooms and TVs, surrounding a little courtyard.
Hotel YasminHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-362-8329; www.yasminmakassar.com; Jl Jampea 5; r incl breakfast from 368,000Rp; aiW)
Victorian-era patterned wallpaper and upholstered chairs add a little decadence to this bustling, decent-value hotel. Rooms are smallish but in good shape and the staff is professional. There’s a cafe-restaurant and 24-hour room service.
Aston MakassarHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-362-3222; www.aston-international.com; Jl Sultan Hasanuddin 10; r incl breakfast from 800,000Rp; aiWs)
This towering city landmark enjoys a fine location within walking distance of the seafront and Fort Rotterdam. Rooms are spacious and well appointed, and the buffet breakfast spread is a welcome sight for hungry bellies. On the top two floors you'll find a 30m indoor pool, a gym, a spa and a sky bar-restaurant.
5Eating
For many visitors it’s the food that makes Makassar a great destination. There’s an abundance of seafood, Chinese dishes, a few international surprises and local specialities such as coto Makassar (a hearty, well-seasoned soup made from buffalo innards), mie titi (also called mie kering – crispy noodles with gravy, chicken and shrimp) and pisang epe (grilled flattened bananas covered with cane syrup and/or chocolate, found all around the city at night at small stalls).
Jl Timor, in the heart of the Chinese quarter, is where you’ll find restaurants serving delicious mie pangsit (wonton soup).
oLae LaeSEAFOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-334-326; Jl Datu Musseng 8; meals from 30,000Rp; hnoon-10pm)
A famous seafood restaurant, Lae Lae is a crowded, unadulterated food frenzy: expect no-nonsense surrounds, discarded crab shells around your feet and great food. You enter via a smoking street-side barbecue area sizzling with grilled fish and seafood, and eat at long tables, where you'll rub shoulders with locals. Three accompanying sambal sauces are offered and there are tasty vegetable side dishes.
Rumah Makan Pate'neINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sulawesi 48; mains 11,000-34,000Rp; h8am-9pm)
Serving up delicious, inexpensive Javanese dishes and Indonesian classics, Pate'ne offers fine value and authentic flavours. Enjoy soto ayam (chicken soup) for just 11,000Rp, or feast on a filling nasi campur (rice with a choice of side dishes) for 27,500Rp. Fresh juices including melon, mango, apple and avocado are available.
Fish WarungsHAWKER$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan; per fish around 25,000Rp; h5-10.30pm)
A string of makeshift fish warungs set up every night on the foreshore opposite Fort Rotterdam and south along the waterfront, and serve some of the tastiest, cheapest seafood in town. Roaming buskers provide table-side entertainment.
Kampoeng PopsaINTERNATIONAL, INDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan; meals from 25,000Rp; h8am-11pm)
This large, open-sided food court facing the harbour has sea breezes, a young clientele, a gregarous vibe, space for kids to run around, and lots of choices, from mei titi to sushi, and noodle dishes to ice cream. Beers, including Heineken and Guinness, are served. There's often live music at night. Find it right across the street from Fort Rotterdam.
SentosaINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-326-062; Jl Penghibur 26; soups 8000Rp; h8am-10pm)
The Makassarese flock to this basic cafe with sea views for inexpensive grub, including tasty meatballs and delicious wonton soup.
BistropolisINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-363-6988; www.bistropolis.net; Jl Sultan Hasanuddin 18; meals 50,000-149,000Rp; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat, to midnight Sun; aW)
A stylish, atmospheric bistro serving great international standards including pasta and pizza, (imported) steaks, ribs, fish and chips and a few Asian dishes. The ice cream (try the Bailey's flavour) is delectable and the espresso hits the spot. Subtle lighting, comfy seating and fine service make it a fine place for lingering over a meal.
RM NelayanSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-361-0523; Jl Alimalaka 25; meals 40,000-70,000Rp; h10am-10pm)
It's tough to resist the aromas emanating from this highly popular restaurant's fish barbecue while strolling along Jl Alimalaka. Step inside and receive a selection of six condiments placed on your table. Fish and shrimp are offered in a variety of styles, including delicious rica-rica (a spicy stir-fry), and cold Bintangs are available.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Many of the bars around the port area are little more than brothels disguised as karaoke bars and are best avoided by all but the proverbial drunken sailor.
Makassar does not have a big club scene; most venues are dotted along the harbourfront road. Entry costs from 35,000Rp to 60,000Rp, which usually includes a soft drink or a beer.
Kios SemarangBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Penghibur; hnoon-1am)
Climb the stairs to the upper floors where you will be rewarded with a rowdy crowd downing beers and comfort grub (the spicy chicken wings are famous). It's a key expat hang-out, and the closest thing to a Makassar drinking institution.
LevelBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0411-831-400; www.thelevel.co.id; Jl Somba Opu 277C; h10am-2am; W)
A landmark white structure facing the floating mosque Masjid Amirul Mukminin, the Level attracts Makassar's young things and hipsters, and hosts DJ events and live bands. There are several zones including a lounge-cafe, the sunset bar, karaoke rooms and a bar-club. Dress sharp (no sandals or flip-flops). You can also drop by for a coffee or a meal during the day.
Zona CafeCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.zonacafe.info; Jl Pasar Ikan; admission 40,000-100,000Rp; h8am-2am)
This popular club draws a loyal young crowd with its DJs and bands from Jakarta and its regular drink promotions. Check its Twitter feed (@zonaholic) for upcoming events.
Ballairate Sunset BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pasar Ikan 10, Hotel Pantai Gapura; h1-11pm)
Built on stilts over the sea, this is the best-located bar in town. Walk right through Hotel Pantai Gapura to discover draft Bintang and a perfect view of the sunset from a large deck.
Kafe KarebaBEER GARDEN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Penghibur; h5pm-midnight)
This long-running outdoor beer garden on the seafront features live bands and is popular with locals and visitors alike. It also has a pretty extensive food menu.
3Entertainment
Studio 21CINEMA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.21cineplex.com; Jl Sam Ratulangi)
Shows current Western films in their original language (with Bahasa Indonesia subtitles). On the top floor of the Ratu Indah Mall complex.
7Shopping
Shopping malls are dotted around the city and suburbs.
Jl Somba Opu has craft stores selling jewellery, ‘antiques’ and souvenirs. Look for Kendari filigree silver jewellery, Torajan handicrafts, Chinese pottery, Makassarese brass work and silk cloth from Sengkang.
Ratu Indah MallMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://malratuindah.co.id; Jl Sam Ratulangi; 8am-10pm)
The best central mall, with two (official) Apple retailers, a Body Shop, a Matahari department store, outdoor-adventure sports retailers, cafes and restaurants.
Makassar MallMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Kyai Kaji Ramli & Jl Agus Salim; h7.30am-10pm)
A sprawling mess and more like a market than a mall; come here to experience Makassar at its craziest.
8Information
Emergency
Police StationPOLICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %110; Jl Ahmad Yani)
Immigration
Immigration OfficeIMMIGRATION
(%0411-584-559; Jl Perintis Kemerdekaan; h7am-noon & 1-4pm
Mon-Fri)
Located 13km from the city centre, on the road to the airport.
Internet Access
Internet centres are found across the city. Most charge 5000Rp per hour.
Expresso Cafe NetINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jl Pasar Ikan & Jl Ahmad Yani; per hr 5000Rp; h8am-midnight)
Centrally located, clean private booths and fast connections.
Medical Services
RS Awal Bros HospitalHOSPITAL
(%0411-452-725; http://makassar.awalbros.com; 43 Jl Jendral Urip Sumoharjo)
The most convenient and well-equipped hospital. Some staff speak English here. It's out near the toll road.
Money
Banks and ATMs are dotted all over the centre of the city. You'll find several moneychangers and ATMs at the airport.
Telephone
The most convenient option is to buy a local SIM card (from 5000Rp). Telkomsel is the carrier with the best coverage in Sulawesi.
Tourist Information
Sulawesi Tourism Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
Lonely Planet Indonesia Page 125