Rantepao
%0423 / Pop 26,500
Something of an overgrown village, Rantepao is an easy-to-manage town that lies within striking distance of the region's major sites, and offers a good range of accommodation and restaurants. The centre is a tad scruffy, but traffic isn’t too heavy and the streets quickly merge with farmers' fields on Rantepao's outskirts; you're never far from the crow of a rooster. Nights can be cool and there is rain throughout the year, even in the dry season.
Rantepao
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1IndosellaC2
4Sleeping
2Luta Resort TorajaA3
3MadarandaB1
4Wisma Maria IA4
5Wisma MonikaA3
6Wisma MontonD2
5Eating
7Cafe ArasC2
8Restoran MamboA3
9Rimiko RestoranC2
10Rumah Makan SaruranB3
7Shopping
11Kaos TorajaA4
12TodiA3
1Sights
Pasar BoluMARKET
Rantepao’s main market is held every six days; ask around in town for the exact day. It also operates daily in a reduced capacity. The main market is a very big, social occasion that draws crowds from all over Tana Toraja. There's a 10,000Rp charge to enter the livestock market, where the leading lights from the buffalo community are on parade; many of the animals cost more than a small car. Pasar Bolu is 2km northeast of town and easily accessible by bemo.
2Activities
Most of the area's activities lie in the hills beyond Rantepao. Hotels that have swimming pools allow nonguests to swim for a fee (from 15,000Rp).
BALOK
The markets held at Rantepao and Makale have whole sections devoted to the sale of the alcoholic drink balok (palm wine; also known as tuak and toddy). Balok is sold in huge jugs around town and comes in a variety of strengths, colours (from clear to dark red, achieved by adding bark) and flavours (from sweet to bitter).
TTours
There are many independent guides based in Rantepao. Agencies can also arrange tours (including trekking and cultural tours), vehicles and guides.
IndosellaHIKING, RAFTING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 4250 5301, 0423-25210; www.sellatours.com; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 111)
A reliable, experienced tour company that organises good hiking, white-water rafting and cultural excursions.
4Sleeping
Prices in Rantepao rise in the peak tourist season (June to August), when some private homes also accept guests. Air-conditioning is rare as nights are cool.
Location and views are often the selling points for midrange places along the roads to Makale or Palopo, which cater almost exclusively for tour groups.
oPia’s Poppies HotelGUESTHOUSE$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21121, 0813 4202 6768; [email protected]; s/d 135,000/175,000Rp; W)
Resembling an Alpine mountain lodge, this excellent place in a tranquil location 10-minutes' walk from the centre has very helpful staff and a welcoming ambience. Rooms face a verdant garden, have quirky details such as stone bathrooms and en-suites have hot water. Be sure to eat in the charming cafe which serves excellent local food. Breakfast not included.
Rosalina HomestayHOMESTAY$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-25530; http://rosalinahomestayrantepao.blogspot.co.uk; Jl Pongitiku Karassik; d incl breakfast 200,000Rp; W)
Opened in 2015, this fine place is owned by Enos, a highly experienced Torajan guide, and his family. They take really good care of their guests, including by preparing filling breakfasts. The spacious rooms are on the upper floor of the family's home, and overlook an ocean of ride paddies from a large shared balcony.
Wisma Maria IGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21165; [email protected]; Jl Sam Ratulangi 23; s/d incl breakfast 115,000/137,000Rp, r with hot water bathroom from 170,000Rp; W)
This cheap place has many plus points including the helpful owner, who can arrange guides and motorbikes, a garden and an attractive dining room decorated with tribal artefacts (where a very generous breakfast is served). However, the simple accommodation is very basic and varies a lot; look first before you commit to a room.
Hotel PisonHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21344; s/d/tr from 135,000/150,000/350,000Rp; aW)
Tumbling down a hillside, the bland but fair-value Pison has 32 clean rooms in several price categories, with bathrooms and minibalconies or porches; all but the very cheapest have hot water. There's a good restaurant; breakfast not included.
Wisma MontonHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21675; Jl Abdul Gani 14A; r incl breakfast 200,000-250,000Rp; W)
Hidden away down a side lane, this three-storey establishment has clean and comfortable rooms with hot water, and an attractive garden. The building is speckled with Toraja decoration and there’s a rooftop restaurant with fine views.
Wisma MonikaGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21216; 36 Jl Sam Ratulangi; r incl breakfast 250,000-400,000Rp; aW)
A grandiose-looking cream villa in a central spot with a choice of plain but well-maintained and clean rooms, all with bedside reading lights. Staff prepare a good breakfast.
MadarandaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-23777; Jl Sadan 21; d incl breakfast 375,000Rp; W)
The huge Torajan-style house, compete with painted details and tribal carving, is the real draw here, and in low season you can easily bargain for better rates. Staff is friendly. It's located next to a busy road around a 10-minute walk from the centre.
Luta Resort TorajaHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21060; www.torajalutaresort.com; 26 Jl Dr Ratulangi; r incl breakfast 675,000-1,100,000Rp; aWs)
This is the only luxury hotel in the centre and it's a stylish place to stay. Very comfortable accommodation is decorated with modern, muted colours, though bathrooms are small. Rooms either overlook the lush central garden or the river at the rear. Note the pool is tiny and wi-fi was limited to the lobby at the time of research.
Heritage TorajaRESORT$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21192; www.torajaheritage.com; r incl breakfast US$100-175; aWs)
The Heritage styles itself as a four-star resort, offering accommodation in huge tongkonan-style houses and a more conventional hotel block (which is fine, but not as atmospheric). Gardens are lush, the lagoon-like pool is great and there's a separate kids pool. Overall, it's a solid choice, but the hotel would benefit from improving attention to detail. Located about 3km from town towards Ke’te Kesu.
Toraja Torsina HotelHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21293; www.hotel-torsina.com; s/d incl breakfast from US$48/62; Ws)
Set in the rice fields near the turn-off to Ke’te Kesu, the rooms here are clean and comfortable (if old-fashioned) and decent value. Service is good and the lovely L-shaped pool is a blissful place for all ages to chill.
THE TORAJA
The Toraja inhabit the vast, rugged landscape of the South Sulawesi highlands. Their name is derived from the Bugis word toriaja, which once had negative connotations similar to ‘hillbilly’ or ‘bumpkin’.
For centuries Torajan life and culture survived the constant threat posed by the Bugis from the southwest. However, in 1905 the Dutch began a bloody campaign to bring Central Sulawesi under their control. Missionaries moved in on the heels of the troops, and by the time of WWII many of the great Torajan ceremonies (with the exception of funeral celebrations) were rapidly disappearing from Torajan culture.
BELIEFS
Prior to the arrival of Christianity, the Toraja believed in many gods but worshipped Puang Matua as the special god of their family, clan or tribe. Christianity has undermined some traditional Torajan beliefs, but the ceremonies are still a vital part of life.
Torajan mythology suggests that their ancestors came by boat from the south, sailed up Sungai Sa’dan (Sa’dan River) and dwelt in the Enrekang region before being pushed into the moun
tains by the arrival of other groups.
Buffalo are a status symbol for the Toraja and are of paramount importance in various religious ceremonies. The buffalo has traditionally been a symbol of wealth and power; even land could be bought with buffalo. Sought-after albino buffalo can change hands for more than US$8000.
Despite the strength of traditional beliefs, Christianity in Toraja is a very active force. One of the first questions asked of you will be your religion, and Protestants are given immediate approval.
TRADITIONAL HOUSES
One of the most noticeable aspects about Tana Toraja is the size and grandeur of the tongkonan (traditional Torajan house). It is the place for family gatherings and may not be bought or sold.
The towering roof, which rears up at either end, is the most striking aspect of a tongkonan. Some believe the roof represents the horns of a buffalo; others suggest it represents the bow and stern of a boat. The more buffalo horns visible, the higher the household’s status.
FUNERALS
Of all Torajan ceremonies, the most important is the tomate (funeral; literally ‘deceased’). Without proper funeral rites the soul of the deceased will cause misfortune to its family.
The Toraja generally have two funeral ceremonies: one immediately after death and an elaborate second funeral after preparations have been made. The bigger funerals are usually scheduled during the dry months of July and August, but there are funerals year-round.
Until the time of the second funeral, the deceased remains in the family house. An invitation to visit the deceased is an honour. If you accept, remember to thank the deceased and ask permission of the deceased when you wish to leave – as you would of a living host.
The second funeral can be spread over several days and involve hundreds of guests. The Toraja believe that the souls of animals should follow their masters to the next life, hence the importance of animal sacrifices. Festivities often start with bullfights, where lots of lively betting takes place, and some famous fighting bulls may be imported for the event from the distant reaches of the country. Animal lovers are likely to find the bullfights disturbing and the sacrifices very traumatic; these two kinds of events are best avoided if you cringe at the sight of blood.
Visitors attending a funeral should wear black or dark-coloured clothing and bring gifts of sugar or cigarettes for the family of the deceased.
GRAVES & TAU TAU
The Toraja believe that you can take possessions with you into the afterlife, and the dead generally go well equipped to their graves. Since this historically led to grave plundering, the Toraja started to hide their dead in caves.
These caves are hollowed out by specialist cave builders. Coffins are taken deep inside the caves, and tau tau (life-sized carved wooden effigies of the dead) are placed on balconies in the rock face in front of the caves.
You can see tau tau carvers at work at Londa. There are many tau tau at Lemo and a few elsewhere, but it’s becoming increasingly difficult to see them in Tana Toraja. So many have been stolen that the Toraja now keep them in their homes.
5Eating
Going to ceremonies or dining in local restaurants offer great opportunities to sample Torajan food. The best-known dish here is pa’piong (meat stuffed into bamboo tubes along with vegetables and coconut). If you want to try it in a restaurant, order several hours in advance because it takes time to cook.
Pia'sINDONESIAN, INTERNATIONAL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21121; meals 30,000-60,000Rp; h7-10am, 6-10pm; W)
The dining room at Pia's Poppies Hotel is a fine place to try local food including pa'piong, plus decent pizza. All food is cooked to order, so it's essential to order well ahead (at least two hours) or be prepared to wait. Bintangs cost just 30,000Rp. It's a ten-minute walk south of the centre. Note it's closed for lunch.
Rumah Makan SaruranINDONESIAN, CHINESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro 19; mains from 15,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)
Reliable, freshly prepared Indonesian-style Chinese food is served at this hopping restaurant that’s popular with young Indonesians. It looks a bit scruffy from the street, but once you're past the kitchen's smoking woks you'll find the comfortable interior has plush banquette seating. There's a full bar and good juices for 12,000Rp.
Rimiko RestoranINDONESIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-23366; Jl Andi Mappanyukki 115; dishes 20,000-50,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W)
A long-running, very friendly place that serves authentic local food. It serves good Torajan specialities including buffalo, pork and eel in black sauce (50,000Rp), as well as Indo staples such as gado gado.
Restoran MamboINTERNATIONAL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Sam Ratulangi; dishes 25,000-60,000Rp; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat; W)
Geared towards tourists, this clean place has a long menu including everything from sate to steak (and an interesting interpretation of a burrito). No MSG is used.
Cafe ArasINDONESIAN, STEAK$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Andi Mappanyukki; meals 35,000-100,000Rp; h7am-10pm; W)
This place is wildly popular with tour groups and travellers thanks to its tourist-friendly set-up (attractive seating, sensitive lighting and mellow music). The food is decent, and includes international dishes (such as steaks) and local options, but not exceptional; it's toned down a degree for Western palates.
7Shopping
Rantepao is a great place to find woodcarving, weaving and basketry, the main crafts of Tana Toraja. Look for specialities from the region's villages, such as Mamasan boxes (used to store magic, salt and betel nuts), huge horn necklaces and wooden figurines; and high-quality woodcarvings by Ke’te Kesu and Londa carvers, such as trays, panels and clocks, designed like the decorations on traditional houses.
Artefacts sold in souvenir shops, especially around the market building in town, also include small replicas of Torajan houses; weaving (that produced in Sa’dan is particularly good); and cloth from the Mamasa Valley. Necklaces made of seeds, chunky silver, and amber or wooden beads festoon the gift shops, but it's the orange-bead necklaces that are authentic Torajan.
TodiCRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-27003; www.todi.co.id; Jl Pembangunan 70; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
Sells high quality ikat, wood carvings and Torajan crafts. You can watch weavers in action on their looms here. Prices are quite high, but some bargaining is possible.
Kaos TorajaCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ratulangi 1; T-shirts 90,000Rp; h10am-7.30pm)
This store specialises in cool T-shirts (for both guys 'n' gals) made from quality cotton and nothing else. Check out its Toraja motifs and stylish designs.
8Information
If you’re doing some serious hiking, pick up a copy of the detailed Tana Toraja (1:85,000) map, published by Periplus (best bought from home).
Free wi-fi is standard in most hotels and guesthouses. Internet cafes are located all over town, and charge around 5000Rp per hour.
Bank DanamonBANK
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro)
Has an ATM.
BNI BankBANK
(Bank Negara Indonesia; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro)
Branch with an ATM.
Government Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21277; Jl Ahmad Yani 62A; h9am-2pm Mon-Sat)
The friendly staff here can provide accurate, independent information about local ceremonies and festivals, and recommend guides.
Post OfficePOST OFFICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
Rumah Sakit ElimHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0423-21258; Jl Ahmad Yani; h24hr)
This is the main hospital in town; however, facilities are quite basic. Make for Makassar if you require international-standard medical care.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Aviastar was operating twice-weekly flights between Rantepao and Makassar at the time of research, but double-check the latest schedule as it's
not a reliable connection. Planes are tiny and seats very limited; tickets can be booked via travel agents in town, not via Aviastar's website.
Bus & Bemo
Most long-distance buses leave from the bus company offices along Jl Andi Mappanyukki. Buses often run at night. Prices vary according to speed and the level of comfort and space.
Several bus companies offer comfortable buses to/from Makassar, including Charisma (which has wi-fi), Manggala Trans, Metro Permai and Bintang Prima. Litha buses are cheaper but pretty beat-up. Try to book your ticket a day or so in advance.
Various companies also have services to Mamuju via Polewali, from where there are connections to Mamasa. From Terminal Bolu, 2km north of Rantepao, there are regular vehicles to Palopo. From the corner of Jl Landorundun and Jl Andi Mapanyukki, Kijangs leave every few minutes to Makale (6000Rp, 20 minutes) and other places in Tana Toraja.
BUSES FROM RANTEPAO
Destination Fare (Rp) Duration (hr)
Makassar (Terminal Daya) 110,000-220,000 8-9
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