by Jim Morekis
Once the southern edge of the Great Dismal Swamp, Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge (252/796-3004, www.fws.gov/pocosinlakes, daily dawn-dusk, free) is an important haven for many species of animals, including migratory waterfowl and reintroduced red wolves. Five important bodies of water lie within the refuge: Pungo Lake, New Lake, the 16,600-acre Lake Phelps, and stretches of the Scuppernong and Alligator Rivers. All of these areas are good spots for observing migratory waterfowl, but Pungo Lake is particularly special in the fall and winter, when snow geese and tundra swans visit in massive numbers—approaching 100,000—on their round-trip Arctic journeys. The refuge headquarters is at Walter B. Jones Sr. Center for the Sounds (U.S. 64, 6 miles south of Columbia).
Also east of Columbia on U.S. 64 is the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge (between Columbia and Roanoke Island, 252/473-1131, http://alligatorriver.fws.gov, daily dawn-dusk, free). This large swath of woods and pocosin represents one of the most important wildlife habitats in the state, home to over 200 species of birds, as well as alligators, red wolves, and more black bears than almost anywhere in the coastal mid-Atlantic. In the 1980s, red wolves were introduced into the Alligator River Refuge as they became extinct in the wild elsewhere in their original range. During the summer months the Columbia-based Red Wolf Coalition (252/796-5600, http://redwolves.com) leads “howlings,” nighttime expeditions into the refuge to hear the wolves’ calling in the woods. Reservations are required, and participation usually costs $7, though it is free on certain occasions.
TRANSPORTATION
This remote corner of North Carolina is crossed by two major north-south routes, U.S. 17 and U.S. 168, both running south from Chesapeake, Virginia. U.S. 168 passes to the east, through Currituck, while U.S. 17 is the westerly route, closest to the Dismal Swamp and Elizabeth City, and passing through Edenton, Windsor, and Williamston. At Williamston, U.S. 17 meets U.S. 64, a major east-west route that leads to Plymouth, Creswell, and Columbia to the east.
Pamlico Sound
WASHINGTON, BATH, AND BELHAVEN
On the north side of the Pamlico River, as you head toward Mattamuskeet National Wildlife Refuge and the Outer Banks, the towns of Washington, Bath, and Belhaven offer short diversions into the nature and history of this region.
along Washington’s waterfront
North Carolina Estuarium
The North Carolina Estuarium (223 E. Water St., Washington, 252/948-0000, www.partnershipforthesounds.org, Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, $3 adults, $2 children) is a museum about both the natural and cultural history of the Tar-Pamlico River Basin. In addition to the exhibits, which include live native animals, historic artifacts, and much more, the Estuarium operates pontoon boat tours on the Pamlico River. River roving is free, but reservations are required.
Turnage Theater
Washington has a great performing arts facility in the restored early 20th-century Turnage Theater (150 W. Main St., Washington, 252/975-1711, www.turnagetheater.com). All sorts of performances take place at the Turnage throughout the year, including prominent artists from around the country. There are concerts of all kinds of music, productions by touring dance troupes and regional theater companies, and screenings of classic movies.
Moss House
Located in the historic district, a block from the river, is the Moss House (129 Van Norden St., Washington, 252/975-3967, www.themosshouse.com, $110-235). This 1902 house is a cozy bed-and-breakfast with airy guest rooms and delicious breakfasts. An easy walk from the Moss House is Bill’s Hot Dogs (109 Gladden St., Washington, 252/946-3343, daily 8:30am-5pm), a longtime local favorite for a quick snack.
Goose Creek State Park
Goose Creek State Park (2190 Camp Leach Rd., 252/923-2191, http://ncparks.gov, daily 8am-dusk, free) is on the banks of the Pamlico, where Goose Creek empties into the river. It’s an exotic environment of brackish marshes, freshwater swamps, and tall pine forests, home to a variety of wildlife, including bears, a multitude of bird species, and rather many snakes. More than eight miles of hiking trails, as well as boardwalks and paddle tails, traverse the hardwood swamp environment. Twelve primitive campsites ($13/day), with access to toilets and water, are available year-round, including one that is disabled-accessible.
Historic Bath
North Carolina’s oldest town, Bath, was chartered in 1705. The town is so little changed that even today it is mostly contained within the original boundaries laid out by the explorer John Lawson. For its first 70 or so years, Bath enjoyed the spotlight as one of North Carolina’s most important centers of trade and politics—home of governors, refuge from conflicts with Native Americans, frequent host to and victim of Blackbeard. Much as Brunswick Town, to the south, was made redundant by the growth of Wilmington, Bath faded into obscurity as the town of Washington grew in the years after the Revolutionary War. Today, almost all of Bath is designated as Historic Bath (252/923-3971, www.bath.nchistoricsites.org, visitors center and tours Apr.-Oct. Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 1pm-5pm, Nov.-Mar. Tues.-Sat. 10am-4pm, Sun. 1pm-4pm, $2 admission for Palmer-Marsh and Bonner Houses). Important sites on the tour of the village are the 1734 St. Thomas Church, the 1751 Palmer-Marsh House, the 1790 Van Der Veer House, the 1830 Bonner House, and, from time immemorial, a set of indelible hoofprints said to have been made by the devil’s own horse.
While in Bath, drop in at the Old Town Country Kitchen (436 Carteret St., 252/923-1840, Fri.-Sat. 7am-8:30pm, Sun.-Tues. 7am-2pm, Wed.-Thurs. 7am-8pm, $10) for some country cooking and seafood. If you decide to stay the night, try the Inn on Bath Creek (116 S. Main St., 252/923-9571, www.innonbathcreek.com, 2-night minimum Apr.-Nov. Fri.-Sat., $130-225). This bed-and-breakfast, built on the site of the former Buzzard Hotel, fits in nicely with the old architecture of the historic town, but because it was built in 1999, it has modern conveniences to make your stay especially comfortable.
Belhaven
The name of Belhaven Memorial Museum (210 E. Main St., Belhaven, 252/943-6817, www.beaufort-county.com, Thurs.-Tues. 1pm-5pm, free) gives no hint as to what a very strange little institution this is. The museum houses the collection of Miss Eva—Eva Blount Way, who died in 1962 at the age of 92—surely one of the most accomplished collectors of oddities ever. The local paper wrote of her in 1951 that, “housewife, snake killer, curator, trapper, dramatic actress, philosopher, and preserver of all the riches of mankind, inadequately describes the most fascinating person you can imagine.” Miss Eva kept among her earthly treasures a collection of pickled tumors (one weighs 10 pounds), a pickled one-eyed pig, a pickled two-headed kitten, cataracts (pickled), and three pickled human babies. It must have taken a very long time to carry everything over here, but Miss Eva’s collection is now on public display, the core of the Belhaven Memorial Museum’s collection.
Belhaven has an especially nice inn, the Belhaven Water Street Bed and Breakfast (567 E. Water St., 866/338-2825, www.belhavenwaterstreetbandb.com, $85-115). The guest rooms in this 100-year-old house face Pantego Creek and have their own fireplaces and private baths as well as wireless access.
S MATTAMUSKEET NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
Near the tiny town of Swan Quarter, the Mattamuskeet National Wildlife Refuge (Hwy. 94, between Swan Quarter and Englehard, 252/926-4021, www.fws.gov/mattamuskeet, daily dawn-dusk, free) preserves one of North Carolina’s most remarkable natural features, as well as one of its most famous buildings. Lake Mattamuskeet, 18 miles long by 6 miles wide, is the state’s largest natural lake, and being an average of 1.5 feet deep—five feet at its deepest point—it is a most unusual environment. The hundreds of thousands of waterfowl who rest here on their seasonal rounds make this a world-famous location for bird-watching and wildlife photography.
Mattamuskeet National Wildlife Refuge
Old-timers in the area have fond memories of dancing at the Lodge at Lake Mattamuskeet, one of eastern North Carolina’s best-known buildings. The huge old building was constructed in 1915 and was, at the time, the world’s largest pumping station, moving over on
e million gallons of water per minute. In 1934 it was bought by the federal government along with the wildlife sanctuary, and the Civilian Conservation Corps transformed it into the lodge that was a favorite gathering place for the next 40 years. The lodge is closed at the time of this writing, but is undergoing restoration for future public use.
Hiking and biking trails thread through the refuge, but camping is not permitted. Within the administration of the Mattamuskeet Refuge is the Swan Quarter National Wildlife Refuge (252/926-4021, www.fws.gov/swanquarter, daily dawn-dusk, free), located along the north shore of the Pamlico Sound, and mostly accessible only by water. This too is a gorgeous waterscape full of wildlife.
TRANSPORTATION
If you continue south on U.S. 17 from Williamston, the next major town you’ll reach is Washington. From there you can turn east on U.S. 264 to reach Bath and Belhaven. Alternatively, you can reach U.S. 264 from the other direction, by taking Highway 94 at Columbia and crossing Lake Mattamuskeet.
There is one state ferry route in this region, at the far northwest corner, between Currituck and Knotts Island (877/287-7488, 45 minutes, free).
Tryon Palace
North Carolina Central Coast
HIGHLIGHTS
PLANNING YOUR TIME
TRANSPORTATION
New Bern
HISTORY
SIGHTS
ENTERTAINMENT AND EVENTS
SHOPPING
SPORTS AND RECREATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
FOOD
Beaufort and Vicinity
SIGHTS
SPORTS AND RECREATION
HARKERS ISLAND
MOREHEAD CITY
BOGUE BANKS
TRANSPORTATION
Lower Outer Banks
S CAPE LOOKOUT NATIONAL SEASHORE
VILLAGE OF CEDAR ISLAND
Cape Lookout Lighthouse.
Highlights
Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.
S Tryon Palace: The splendid and, in its day, controversial seat of colonial government in North Carolina is reconstructed in New Bern’s historic district, a significant destination worthy of a whole day’s leisurely exploration (click here).
S North Carolina Maritime Museum: North Carolina’s seafaring heritage, in living traditions as well as history, is represented in fascinating exhibits and activities at this great museum (click here).
S Beaufort’s Old Burying Ground: Even if it weren’t the final resting place of the “Little Girl Buried in a Barrel of Rum,” this little churchyard would still be one of the prettiest and most interesting cemeteries in the South (click here).
S Core Sound Waterfowl Museum: Actually a museum about people rather than ducks, the Waterfowl Museum eloquently tells of the everyday lives of past generations of Down Easterners, while bringing their descendants together to reforge community bonds (click here).
S North Carolina Aquarium: Sharks and jellyfish and their aquatic kin show their true beauty in underwater habitats at the aquarium, while trails and boat tours lead to the watery world outdoors (click here).
S Cape Lookout National Seashore: The more than 50 miles of coastline along Core and Shackleford Banks, now home only to wild horses and turtle nests, were once also the home of Bankers, who made their livings in the fishing, whaling, and shipping trades (click here).
You’ll start to feel the ocean when you’re still many miles away from its shore. A good hour’s drive from the Atlantic, the sky begins to expand in a way that suggests reflected water, like a mirage felt rather than seen. Getting closer to the coast, the pine forests on either side of the highway are peppered with mistletoe bundles.
New Bern and Beaufort, centers of colonial commerce, connect North Carolina to the greater Atlantic world. Both towns are wonderfully preserved, ideal places for self-guided strolls with lots of window-shopping. Below the crooked elbow of the Neuse River, the Croatan National Forest surrounds hidden lakes and tiny towns. To the northeast, Cedar Island National Wildlife Refuge is a vast plain of marshes, gradually dropping off into Pamlico Sound. Cape Lookout National Seashore shelters the mainland from the ocean, a chain of barrier islands where a remote port, once one of the busiest maritime towns in North Carolina, and a whaling village, nearly washed away by a series of storms, now stand empty but for seagulls and ghosts.
You may hear folks in North Carolina refer to any point on the coast, be it Wilmington or Nags Head, as “Down East.” In the most authentic, local usage of the term, Down East really refers to northeastern Carteret County, to the islands and marsh towns in a highly confined region along the banks of Core Sound, north` of Beaufort. Like seemingly every scenic spot in North Carolina, Down East communities are undergoing seismic cultural shifts as people “from off” move into the area, as young people leave home to make their lives and livings elsewhere, and as forces like global trade and environmental changes make the traditional maritime occupations of the region increasingly untenable. Nevertheless, Down Easterners fight to preserve the core treasures of Core Sound. Conservation and historic preservation efforts are underway, and they’ve already netted some victories. The best place to witness Down Easterners’ passionate dedication to preserving their heritage is at the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum on Harkers Island. Members of the little communities along the sound have brought precious family objects to be displayed at the museum, and the quilts, family photos, baseball uniforms, oyster knives, net hooks, and other treasures eloquently tell of their love of the water, the land, and each other.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
The standard beach-season rules apply to the coastal areas covered in this chapter. Lodging prices go up dramatically between Memorial Day and Labor Day, and though you might score a rock-bottom price if you visit on a mild weekend out of season, you might also find that some of the destinations you’d like to visit are closed.
North Carolina Sea Grant (www.ncseagrant.org) provides wallet cards listing the seasons for different seafood caught and served in Carteret County. The cards can be ordered by mail, or downloaded and printed from the website.
Late summer and early autumn are hurricane season all through the Southeast. Hurricane paths are unpredictable, so if you’re planning a week on the beach, and know that a hurricane is hovering over Cuba, it won’t necessarily hit North Carolina, though the central Carolina coast is always an odds-on favorite for landfall. Chances are you’ll have pretty fair warning if a storm is coming—you won’t wake up one morning to find your motel room windows covered with plywood, and everybody else in town gone—but it’s always a good idea to familiarize yourself with evacuation routes, and not take chances. A storm that’s too far offshore to cause any weather problems can still mess up beach conditions, making waves and currents that are exciting for surfing but way too dangerous for swimming. (These caveats are relevant to the whole North Carolina coast, not just this region.)
Barring storms, the fall is a really beautiful time on the beaches here. The coastal weather is sometimes warm right into November, and though the water may be too chilly for swimming then, there’s hardly a nicer time for walking tours of the old towns—except, of course, azalea season in the spring.
TRANSPORTATION
Car
One of the state’s main east-west routes, U.S. 70, gives easy access to almost all of the destinations in this chapter. From Raleigh to Beaufort is a distance of a little over 150 miles, but keep in mind that large stretches of the highway are in commercial areas with plenty of traffic and red lights. U.S. 70 continues past Beaufort, snaking up along Core Sound through little Down East towns like Otway and Davis, finally petering out in the town of Atlantic. At Sea Level, Highway 13 branches to the north, across the Cedar Island Wildlife Refuge and ending at the Cedar Island-Ocracoke Ferry.
Down south, to reach the Bogue Banks (Atlantic Beach, Emerald Isle, and neighboring beaches) by road, bridges cross Bogue Sound on Highway 58 at both Morehead City and Cedar Point
(not to be confused with Cedar Island).
Ferry
Except for the visitors center at Harkers Island, Cape Lookout National Seashore can only be reached by ferry. Most ferries operate between April and November, with some exceptions. Portsmouth, at the northern end of the park, is a short ferry ride from Ocracoke, but Ocracoke is a very long ferry ride from Cedar Island. The Cedar Island-Ocracoke Ferry (800/856-0343) is part of the state ferry system, and costs $15 one-way for regular-sized vehicles (pets allowed). It takes 2.25 hours to cross Pamlico Sound, but the ride is fun, and embarking from Cedar Island feels like sailing off the edge of the earth. The Ocracoke-Portsmouth ferry is a passenger-only commercial route, licensed to Captain Rudy Austin. Call 252/928-4361 to ensure a seat. There’s also a vehicle and passenger ferry, Morris Marina Kabin Kamps and Ferry Service (877/956-6568), from Atlantic to Long Point on the North Core Banks, leashed or in-vehicle pets are allowed.
Commercial ferries cross every day from mainland Carteret County to the southern parts of the National Seashore. There is generally a ferry route between Davis and Great Island, but service can be variable; check the Cape Lookout National Seashore website (www.nps.gov/calo) for updates.