by KJ Fallon
Copyright © 2018 by KJ Fallon
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available on file.
Cover design by Rain Saukas
Print ISBN: 978-1-5107-2554-6
Ebook ISBN: 978-1-5107-2555-3
Printed in the United States of America
This book is dedicated to my family because, in the end, that is what matters
Without my morning coffee I’m just like a dried up piece of roast goat.
—Johann Sebastian Bach
Contents
Preface
Introduction
PART ONE
FROM CROP TO CUP THROUGH THE DECADES
CHAPTER 1—Coffee Consumption; from Flat to Flat White
CHAPTER 2—A Sixty-Second Take on the Sometimes-Subversive Journey of Coffee through History
CHAPTER 3—The Journey from Tree to Table
PART TWO
LOVING THE SINGLE LIFE?
CHAPTER 4—Rise of the Single Serve
CHAPTER 5—The K-Cup, an Industry Standard
CHAPTER 6—The Nascent Keurig and the K-Cup
CHAPTER 7—K-Cup, Etcetera
CHAPTER 8—Turf Wars: Keep Your Pod Out of My Brewer
PART THREE
COFFEE FOR ONE EVOLVES
CHAPTER 9—The Single-Serve Environmental Quandary and Some Alternatives
CHAPTER 10—Giving Back
CHAPTER 11—Coffee and Health
CHAPTER 12—Does Single Serve Fuel Too Much Separateness?
CHAPTER 13—Just What is Single Serve Anyway?
CHAPTER 14—What’s Next for Coffee for One?
Acknowledgments
Endnotes
Bibliography
Preface
Coffee is so ubiquitous in our culture that when a die-hard tea drinker I know went into a deli and ordered “Tea to go,” the guy behind the counter handed my friend two containers of coffee with lids.
Every year, more than 500 billion cups of coffee are served. Coffee fuels our existence. It is our push in the morning and the afternoon. Much has been written about the origins of coffee as a beverage and even the romance of coffee, using this brewing method or that one to bring out the true essence of whatever bean and whatever roast you have chosen to be transformed into a delicious, aromatic elixir. But let’s face it. Most of the time, we want to have what we want and need as quickly as possible. This is where the near instant gratification of the single-serve coffee option comes in.
About 100 million people groggily reach for a cup of coffee first thing in the morning, and the single-serve brewing method is the fastest way to get that cup of java into their hands. Coffee wakes us up, keeps us up, and even provides health benefits, including burning fat and decreasing the risk of type 2 diabetes and the most common type of liver cancer, according to recent studies. Clearly, the beverage from the bean is a major part of life, and 54 percent of Americans over the age of eighteen are coffee drinkers.
A lot of folks have pushed the usual methods of making coffee—the percolator, the French press, and even Mr. Coffee-type brewers—off into the appliance nostalgia closet. Oh, sure, coffee connoisseurs will display and even use their French press or siphon or vacuum pots. And people still brew coffee using any manner of common and esoteric methods—cold brewing, vacuum pot, AeroPress. And we all like a little variety. But as a basic and everyday way to make a cup of coffee, the single-serve brewer is here to stay and has found a permanent place on the kitchen counter. This is one small appliance that is not going to go away. It will evolve, but it will not disappear. Uses for it and variations of it will continue to develop. For instance, CVS pharmacy offers cold medicine in a single-serve cup meant to be dispensed via a single cup compatible brewer. Single serve is a singular phenomenon that will continue to grow and become more ingrained in our culinary culture.
Consumers now think nothing about spending the equivalent of more than fifty dollars a pound for ordinary coffee in single-serve pods or cups. Single-serve coffee says as much about our lifestyles as it does about how we make our coffee. Single serve is practically the only coffee brewing method an entire generation knows. This is what they grew up with and how they measure their coffee needs. Single-serve coffee has become so ingrained in our lives that the National Coffee Association USA (NCA), which, since 1950, has commissioned an annual survey about coffee consumption in the United States, recently broke out single serve into a separate category for market and trends research. In 2013, about fifteen billion single-serve coffee capsules were sold worldwide.
Many coffee lovers cannot remember a time when the machine that brewed and dispensed coffee one convenient cup at time did not exist. According to a National Coffee Association study, “since 2012 single-cup brewers have been the second most used coffee preparation method.” And the percentage of coffee drinkers who had coffee brewed in a single-serve brewer the previous day is on the rise.1
It is as much about the pods as it is about the brewer, perhaps even more so. Keeping consumers hooked on a particular brand of pod or cup is the money maker. And drink lots of coffee, they do. The 2017 National Coffee Drinking Trends survey found that: “In 2017, a total of 33% of households claim to own this type of brewer. This compares to 29% in 2016. We also see increased interest versus 2016 in buying a single-cup brewer in the next six months. This argues for continued growth of the systems.”2
As a lifelong coffee lover (who also appreciates a myriad variety of teas), it is my hope that the coffee-loving reader will enjoy learning about the evolution of single-serve coffee, and the failures, fights, and fiascos that have littered the road to best in cup.
The single serve represents not just a brewing sea change for the US forty billion-dollar coffee industry, but a lifestyle shift. No need for a pot of coffee for a family or group. At the office, no one has to be responsible for making a fresh pot of coffee. You can make fresh-brewed coffee just for yourself, using one hand, in under a minute.
The story of specialty coffee and single serve includes Green Day, Hugh Jackman, George Clooney, and a host of others who recognize the place that coffee has in our world.
Introduction
While this book started out as a long look at single-serve coffee and how it has become a part of life, it turned out to involve so much more. What was it about coffee culture that led to the single-serve option in the first place? Single-serve coffee did not appear in a vacuum. It took many years to get to the point where coffee lovers expected to be able to brew a fresh cup of coffee pretty much wherever and whenever they wanted. Imagine if a single-serve brewer had appeared somehow in, say, 1955, like in Back to the Future. I suspect that the people in the McFly household during that time period would have seen no use for such a gadget. “Make just one cup of coffee for just one person? Why? What about the rest of us who want some coffee? I have a whole can of coffee right here. Opened it two weeks
ago and there’s still lots left.”
Well, it is all about what you’re used to, right?
Specialty coffee is the breakout spin-off from what past generations of coffee lovers had previously thought of as coffee. And specialty coffee has become ever more specialized. Is your specialty coffee shop not specialized enough for you? How about an even more specialized coffee bar inside the specialty coffee shop? Starbucks did just that when it opened Starbucks Reserve Bars in some of their stores. Starbucks also has specialized Roasteries where their premium, small-lot Reserve coffee beans are roasted. The Roasteries also serve the premium coffees. Starbucks has even announced it was opening a Roastery in Milan, Italy, in late 2018. Italy, where, according to Italy magazine:
“It would be fair to say that Italians are passionate about coffee. So much so, you would think they had discovered it. They didn’t. To make up for this, however, they have invented a coffee culture unequalled anywhere else in the world.”1
PART ONE
FROM CROP TO CUP THROUGH THE DECADES
CHAPTER 1
Coffee Consumption; from Flat to Flat White
Coffee is usually the first sip of the morning. It is the beverage that opens the eyes to a new day and prepares our nervous system for whatever the forces throw our way. Brewing coffee in coffee pots from humble metal to decorative ceramic has been around for a very long time. Over the years this basic design evolved into the percolator and electric percolator, which worked fine for a family or group having their coffee at the same time. Other methods were also embraced by those who had the time and the inclination to go gourmet. The elegant but slow French press, the very leisurely drip method, the unhurried pour over. The sometimes near theatrical preparation was an integral part of the process. Whatever the choice, a special grind of coffee was needed for each different brewing technique. In any case, preparing the coffee was going to take time. No quick fix there. Preparing the morning brew using these low-concept methods would take a big chunk out of the morning.
What was behind the desire for a fresh-brewed single serve? When did coffee drinkers realize that they could hope for, and get, great-tasting coffee one cup at a time, really fast? Sure, there was instant, and the quality of that seemed to be improving, but would it ever be possible to have a quick fresh-brewed cup of coffee before heading out the door in the morning?
You’re Drinking What with Breakfast?
Coffee wasn’t always in the spotlight on the beverage stage. Coffee consumption in the Unites States peaked around 1945, with folks drinking about forty-six gallons per person.
But another beverage was starting to become a lot more popular starting at around that time. (No, not beer. Beer, along with ale, was the popular drink for breakfast or anytime in the eighteenth century.1) Soda. The real beverage love of people’s lives was soda.
While consumption of coffee had been flat for years, after 1962 there was a marked decline in coffee drinking. In 1962, about 75 percent of adults in the United States drank coffee. By 1988, just 50 percent were coffee drinkers. Not only were there fewer coffee drinkers, those coffee drinkers were drinking fewer cups of coffee. In 1962, coffee drinkers were quaffing around three cups a day. By 1980, the amount of coffee being imbibed per day was slightly more than two cups and by 1991, that amount fell to less than two cups per day. And the people who were drinking the coffee were those in an older generation. Where were the people in their twenties? An older population with little interest in coffee drinking and a younger generation that didn’t care so much for coffee didn’t bode well for the longevity of coffee as a permanent part of the food and beverage habits of consumers. What were the younger people drinking? Yes. Soda. As coffee consumption fell, soda consumption rose, and at a very bubbly and steady pace.2
Coffee was getting seriously displaced by the cold, carbonated way to get caffeine, even in the morning. It was faster, it was more convenient, and it was just a lot . . . more . . . cool. At least that’s what the soda makers wanted folks to take away from their “Coke in the Morning” ad campaign back in the 1980s and more recently with a variation on that theme. Having your morning caffeine via a refreshing, cold, and easy-to-carry soda was very appealing to a lot of consumers. They didn’t have to wait in line to fill a flimsy Styrofoam cup with what was likely over-brewed coffee in the convenience store, and, if they were having breakfast at home, they didn’t have to bother with measuring the coffee and waiting around while it brewed, and waiting some more while it cooled enough to drink. Why not just open the refrigerator and grab a soda with a decent amount of caffeine and bring along another one for the road? Or two.
Add to that Pepsi’s “Pepsi A.M.” campaign. Pepsi A.M. had 28 percent more caffeine than regular Pepsi but still about 75 percent less than the amount of caffeine in coffee. Then, sometime in the 1990s a few test markets got the chance to try Pepsi Kona and Pepsi Cappuccino.3, 4
Not enough? Then, how about Coca-Cola BlāK, a coffee-flavored cola? This coffee-ish soda was available for a short time in 2006. Coca-Cola likely was trying to interest the gourmet coffee lover with this very seductive-looking beverage bottle and its advertising campaign. After about two years the product was discontinued.5 Another coffee and soda combination was Café-Cola, produced in the 1990s. (Cafe Cola 2017)6
It is evident that while soda was king, coffee was still an influence that soft drink manufacturers wanted to exploit. And for a lot of people, a cold caffeinated beverage with maybe a caffeine infusion was just what they wanted. They would rather have a cold soda than a cup of probably not-so-fresh-coffee. Plus, maybe they just didn’t like the taste of coffee. Maybe this was because the coffee they were exposed to was just bad coffee. And there was that time thing, again. Who had time to wait around for a pot of coffee to brew? Why not just have an ice-cold Coke? If you needed more caffeine, just have another, and maybe another. Plus, for a lot of workers on fluctuating work schedules, the first meal of the day often just went better with a cold soda.
In 1985, Jolt Cola promised all of the sugar and twice the caffeine.7 (There is a Facebook page dedicated to bringing it back.)8 All you had to do was open the refrigerator, grab it, drink it, and go. Or drink it on the go. This was a lot less cumbersome than making coffee in the morning, especially considering that probably half the pot would be poured down the drain anyway since there was so little time to drink more than one hastily prepared cup. Soda consumption was going up, while coffee consumption was going down. You can be sure that coffee organizations took notice.
Of course, there was instant coffee, but even with that you had to wait for the water to boil and then stir it and wait some more for the coffee to cool down so you could drink it. And then if you wanted a second cup, you’d have to do it all over again.
So, enticing people to come back to or to start drinking coffee in the morning, never mind at other times, was going to take some effort, imagination, and forethought. Consumers would have to start being persuaded that, hey, maybe they should rethink their love affair with soda, which was ongoing for generations.
Part of the pullback to coffee was due to a gradual evolution on the one hand, but also to a few more revolutionary events. And they all seemed to have happened around the same time.
Revolution #1: Mr. Coffee (1972)
Its name is now synonymous with electric drip coffeemakers, but back in 1972 when it was first introduced for home use, Mr. Coffee was a brand-new idea in the world of making fresh coffee at home. Here was a machine that in one compartment you just had to fill with water and in another compartment place a filter laden with ground coffee, plug it in, turn it on, and wait, but with a wait that was a lot shorter than with other brewing methods. Plus, you didn’t have to watch over it to make sure it didn’t boil over or burn. It was all automatic. You could get on with whatever else you needed to do and the coffee would practically make itself.
Mr. Coffee was a resounding success, selling more than a million units in two years and was hailed as a revolu
tionary food preparation device.9 And it was.
Revolution #2: The Birth of Coffeehouse Culture in the United States
McNulty’s—1895
This establishment goes back a long time before specialty coffee became a phenomenon. Since the early twentieth century, this landmark for coffee and tea lovers has been offering the best of coffees and teas in Manhattan’s West Village. True, there is only the one store (the store first opened not far from its current location)—but what a coffee (and tea) emporium, singular in every respect. Here, coffee lovers have come to know the best coffee available and have come to expect nothing less. Folks outside the New York area can order online, and McNulty’s continues to get a high ranking and not just due to nostalgia. It is a favorite with tourists, as well. A step inside reveals the heady smells of so many gourmet coffees—it is hard to choose the one or ones you want to try.
McNulty’s has been around for a very long time and may be in just one small location, but they are further proof that people will seek out fine coffees once they are awakened to the pleasures this perfect beverage offers. These coffee lovers learned that settling for mediocre coffee is not an option.
There really cannot be too many gourmet coffeehouses. Even though other coffee emporiums have opened nearby it only enhances what McNulty’s has to offer. There is no such thing, it seems, as too many choices of where to find the perfect cup of coffee.
Peet’s Coffee
Peet’s Coffee is the brainchild of Holland-born Alfred Peet, who knew pretty much everything there was to know about coffee. He came to the United States after World War II and was flabbergasted at the swill that Americans referred to as coffee. Seeing it as his mission to set things right, he opened his first store in 1966 in Berkeley, California. His method was a forerunner of the gourmet preparation of coffee. He prepared his coffee in small batches using fresh beans that were dark roasted. The result was a cup of coffee that opened the eyes, taste buds, and souls of coffee drinkers. So this is what coffee was supposed to taste like!