Letters From Everest

by George Lowe, Huw Lewis-Jones, Jan Morris, Peter Hillary

  John told me as he arrived on 13th that he had mail for me. “At least, I have some newspapers and Mike has the letters. Mike’s buggered, I think you had better go down to him.” Mike Westmacott was making his third valiant attempt to reach VI and each day the altitude stopped him. I went down and Mike was 300 ft below me. I had 200 ft of rope and shouted to him to reach the rope and we’d pull up the letters and Da Tenzing’s load. It was an hour before Mike could reach the rope, tie on and we had his load. I took a hurried glance and saw a tiny canvas bag with a dozen letters and I whooped – it was easily the strangest mail delivery I’d had and we dragged back to VI loaded with rope, pitons, oxygen cylinders and letters.

  It took over two hours to rush through the letters. A long one from Reuben – a wonderful surprise in which he said, “Something to read at 15 or 20,000 ft” – I was at 23,500, then my highest ever. There was a ‘Free Lance’ from Betty and a letter – she’s never missed a mail yet – Geoff Milne, Pat Thorsby, Helen McKenzie, Prof. Finch – oh, and lots more, a bundle of newspapers from London, a Geographic Magazine – all of which is here with me now at VII – at about 25,000 ft. I was hoping to answer all the senders but I haven’t had a chance since as every day has been terrific.

  On 14th May Ang Nima and I left VI at 8.30 a.m. determined to get to Swiss VII and fix the route. The wind was bad that day and my feet froze badly – we were caked with ice and the cold air gave us very sore throats. The snow was wind-crusted and therefore easier. In four hours we reached the site of VII and sank down. The height is about 24,800 ft. We fixed several ropes on the steepest and most exposed parts and went down. The heat in the tent at VI was over 120°F and we nearly fainted. We both lay from 3 till 5 p.m. in complete exhaustion and were so knocked out that we asked for a day off. John (by wireless) O.K.’d this and then ordered Ang Nima down for a spell and said he was sending Wilf Noyce up to help me with the route above VII and Mike Ward would improve the route between V and VI.

  15th May. After 17 hours sleeping I peeped out and saw a trail of chaps leaving V. They arrived about midday – Ed and Wilf with 4 Sherpas. Ed was full of beans and persuaded the Sherpas to carry 25 lbs each on to VII, which they did. A wonderful effort on Ed’s part – although he admitted to being tired on the way down. The Sherpas were absolutely flogged.

  Wilf stayed and Ang Nima went down. Wilf took a sleeping pill and persuaded me to have one. I swallowed this at 7.30 on the 15th thinking it would give me a good sleep before a very ambitious day on the 16th. I slept like a log and at seven Wilf woke me, and I knelt and started the primus but went to sleep in the kneeling position. All night the wind had been gusty and very strong but I had been oblivious. Then Wilf began to shout and shake me but I was drugged and rolled over and slept until 9 a.m. Through the stupor I could hear Wilf moaning and despairing – beating and shaking me – but I drifted on. Then he slapped and pounded me and I jerked into doing things, got out, swayed on the platform, roped up, and with all our lilos, sleeping bags and things we staggered off. In 2½ hours I was 400 ft above VI and Wilf was worried that I’d die. I looked and wobbled so drunkenly. He suggested lunch and we sat on the slope and opened sardines. I ate one and my head dropped and I was asleep, sliding down the face. Wilf hauled the rope and I could hear him say, “Oh, God what will I do? What will I do? Oh, what has happened!” I mumbled and dribbled and managed to say I was drugged by the sleeping pill and I’d have to go back to VI.

  I felt absolutely bloody and so weak, and without any will power. Wilf led me to VI – where I fell and flopped down the slopes and fell into the tent and snored off. He took off rope, crampons and boots, and I was doped until evening. I woke then for two hours but felt awful, and heard Wilf giving a despairing account to Base and asking the doctors what to do – reply – “He’ll probably sleep it off by morning”. I felt terrible that night and slept log-like and awoke normally and fresh on 17th May. Thank God – never again will they persuade me!

  17th May. We established two tents on the site of Swiss VII and in the afternoon Wilf and I pushed on to about 25,000 ft and came down to find Mike Ward here with 4 Sherpas. The Sherpas went down with Wilf and Mike stayed to relieve Wilf and I decided to keep Da Tenzing here as Mike looked knocked by the height.

  Ed Hillary helps to keep the Lhotse Face secure, as he leads a team of Sherpas up to Camp VII.

  The view from high on the Lhotse Face, looking back down into the Western Cwm.

  From Camp VI, with Sherpa Ang Nima as his companion, George Lowe cut a route up the Lhotse Face.

  Everything looked fine for a push today to fix a rope on the last traverse below the South Col and so complete the terrific Lhotse Face job. About 9 p.m. it began to blow and this is the real Everest wind. The tents cracked and rocked and this morning we left at 10 a.m. in a 100 mph gale to try the traverse. We soon iced up and Mike’s hands went numb. We ploughed on – I took some movie of the others in the wind until the camera seized. We finally stopped at 25,600 ft with the traverse 300 ft above – but quite out of the question. We came down in terrible conditions and ever since the two tents have been taking a terrific pasting. Now it is dark – I must sleep, hoping the wind will die and tomorrow we’ll fix the final ropes, for the South Col carry on the 20th.

  Bye, George.

  Advanced Base

  22nd May 1953

  Dear Folks,

  The big push is underway. The excitement here is terrific. Everyone is writing furiously now and trying not to be too excited. Right now we look up at the Lhotse Face and see 17 people like ants crawling across the traverse to the South Col. They are about 26,000 ft now! Think what a triumph this is. Today we establish South Col with our main strength down here ready to put in the tremendous final punch. Seventeen people with 30 lb loads, already as high as Annapurna, the highest ever climbed. And down here are two assault teams with oxygen – with support parties on oxygen and 7 super-fit Sherpas (with oxygen) all ready to set off this afternoon and tomorrow for the final crack.

  The situation has been balancing like a battle hourly since we came down the day before yesterday. Yesterday afternoon was terrific. The whole thing was in the balance. John looked haggard and drawn. Tom Bourdillon was despairing on the oxygen bottles – none of the first lift would leave Camp VII. Notes were flying, the wireless between here and VII was phut – but the one tremendous thrill was seeing a reccy party hit the South Col – but let’s go back.

  On 20th – Wilf Noyce and Analu have just returned from South Col with news – and the events mount hourly. How can I get this all down! By a mistake I wasn’t with Wilf on his run to South Col and I’m as envious as hell.

  On 20th May Mike Ward, Da Tenzing and I left VII at 9.30 a.m. to make an attempt to reach the final traverse before the South Col and so have the route fixed for the Sherpas who were to carry on 21st. On 20th the wind was bad and the cold very formidable. We set out but turned down after only ¾ of an hour. We had all deteriorated considerably and my feet were slightly bitten, Michael’s left hand also and Da Tenzing was quite without sting. It was a terrific disappointment to me as it ended my activity on the mountain and I did so hope to reach the South Col. I had been over 25,000 feet on 3 days out of 4 and still felt fitter than the other two. The wireless had failed and we could not get Advanced Base (Camp IV) and John was in a terrific stew. He sent Wilf up on the 20th with a message and an oxygen set for me – with the intention the he (Wilf) and I make an oxygen bid for South Col on 21st and try and persuade the 7 Sherpas to follow.

  However our last orders were to come down on 20th – at all costs – and make way for the S. Col lift under Wilf. At midday we went down and met Wilf halfway between VI and VII. Our first news was that we hadn’t covered the route to the traverse and it was still in doubt – a disturbing thing for Wilf. Second we said that VII was right out of fuel and was he carrying supplies. He wasn’t and for the first time we saw Wilf in a flap. The carry had been going badly and Wilf was quite rattled. We straightened ou
t the fuel problem and took off two of his Sherpas to collect fuel from VI. Here Wilf forgot to tell me about the oxygen attempt and I came down to IV.

  We were rather surprised to find John very disappointed at our not reaching the traverse – but it was understandable as he had set such store by our efforts and I had been very cocky. Last night there was a drawn, despondent air in the camp. The ‘face’ lift was demoralised, the traverse unreached, Wilf’s Sherpas had been going badly to VII. The wireless did not connect and John was distraught. I had a bad night as the general feeling, although unsaid, was that I had failed somewhat.

  21st dawned fine, and everyone glued eyes on VII. 8 a.m. no sign of shifting – 8.30 a.m., 9 o’clock, 9.15 a.m. John was desperate. Why doesn’t Wilf start! I’m sure his Sherpas have failed! Hell, the weather is right, we must get away. 9.30 a.m., no signs of life in Camp VII. 9.45 a.m. and two figures leave VII and start down! Despair and conjecture! What’s happened. 10 a.m., two figures leave VII and start up – very slowly. Nothing else. We guessed the two “ups” as Wilf and Analu going up to the traverse to fix ropes and fix the route we had missed.

  John decided to despatch Ed and Tenzing to VII on oxygen – a few hours previously Charles Wylie had left with the second seven of the Sherpa lift. John, having guessed that the Sherpas had jibbed, sent Tenzing with Ed to add a solid spur. This was a bold move as Ed and Tenzing were his summit hopes, intended to leave fresh in a day or so. Oxygen could be ill spared but they set off at midday on 21st when no Sherpas left VII.

  Midday Wilf and Analu, both on oxygen, were steaming up at a terrific speed (1,000 ft an hour). They reached the Lhotse Face traverse and then headed up the long snow slope for the place above the S. Col where the route leads – 26,400 ft.

  A note arrived from Wilf (the two men coming down were Sherpas who jibbed at going up and were sent down with a note) to say that several oxygen bottles were leaking and that the Sherpas at VII refused, in a body, to push up – saying that they were all sick. John tore his hair and retired to his tent, Charles Evans, his chief lieutenant, went to console, Tom Bourdillon began pacing around and shouting over the wireless – “Camp IV calling Camp VII – Report my signals – This is urgent – Over! Repeat, repeat, repeat!” Tom is oxygen officer and wanted to try and save the oxygen. For three hours or so the place was like a battle control room and the battle was going badly – except that Wilf and Analu were forging up and at 2.30 p.m. crossed 26,400 ft and went out of sight to the Col and there was a mental cheer here in Advanced Base. What a thrill it was to see the first party hit the Col.

  John was mad keen then that the radio contact with VII be established. At 5 p.m., our usual time, the calls were urgent and strained and no contact was made. We didn’t know the Sherpa morale position, the oxygen bottles were reported leaking. The summit parties were due to leave within 24 hours and this would be useless and wasteful of oxygen and energy if the S. Col lift did not go. The S. Col lift was so tight that if only one man failed to lift his 30 lbs the assault could not launch on time. The weather is now as good as it will ever be. Poor John showed the strain far more than anybody.

  Bed on 21st but no sleep. 5.30 had seen Wilf and Analu descend from S. Col leaving behind a wonderful trail of helpful steps. All night everybody tossed and turned. Late evening a mail-runner arrived and included a note from James Morris (The Times Special Correspondent at Base) to say that five journalists are camped at Base all waiting with men to race to the nearest wireless base to report the news of the attempt. This is quite fantastic – the first time it’s ever happened here. All radio walkie-talkie is now in code in case they pick up our messages direct. The tension down there is terrific.

  The night grew gusty – the stars were spot-light bright and a wind moaned and roared over S. Col like a sea-tide. The noise is quite a usual sound now – but this time it had a special meaning. 40° of frost was recorded here.

  The 22nd dawned clear and the wind suddenly dropped about 7.30 a.m., although odd wisps could be seen licking Lhotse – a gentle zephyr of 40 or 50 m.p.h. or so!

  At 8 a.m. a cry went up from here – “They’re on the way – seventeen of them!” There was a rush for glasses and even with the naked eye we could see the great lift across the great crevasses above VII and trailing like a tiny centipede along the slopes of the upper Lhotse Face. The best of glasses made out Ed and Tenzing punching out a track in the snow, aided by precious assault set oxygen. The feeling of good cheer and excitement was great here when we counted that every Sherpa was on the way and the train pushed up and up without pause – 25,000 – 25,600 – up the roped crack – the right hook and then out of the Lhotse Face icefall to the huge couloir – up – up – up – midday, nearly 26,000 and still going, but slowly now. What a triumph! 17 people to 26,000 feet, the weather practically perfect. Spirits rose, the assault team of Charles Evans and Tom Bourdillon and John (in support) checked their gear and prepared to leave for V. About 1.30 one tiny figure stayed on the slope and the rest went on – someone we think has doubled his load (probably Ed or Tenzing). Charles Wylie is there with them too and at 3 p.m. they have all disappeared out of sight, towards the Col.

  Then midday 22nd, Wilf and Analu arrive at IV looking fresh – everyone greets them after their great effort. Questions fly, – oxygen O.K.? – Stores at VII? Sherpa lift? South Col stores?

  There’s enough S. Col stores for the first assault but not enough for the second and main. I’ve got a job – to get volunteer Sherpas and lift oxygen to S. Col. I’m very excited at this now. It’s just been decided.

  4 p.m., 22nd. Charles Evans and Tom Bourdillon with the most ultra-futuristic closed-circuit apparatus, plus their own personal gear (lilo, sleeping bags, crampons and what-have-you – over 50 lbs altogether) with John Hunt and two special Sherpas (Ang Temba and Balu) on open circuit, set off for V to spend the night, then VII tomorrow. South Col, 24th and summit attempt 25th. This was quite a moment.

  Now on morning of 24th, Ed and Tenzing – second summit team supported by Gregory and three super Sherpas to place Ridge Camp (28,000?) with me and three Sherpas to lift oxygen to S. Col are due to leave – and so this tangled account had better end for now.

  CHAPTER FOUR

  Base Camp

  1st June 1953

  Dear Betty,

  In a day or so the world will know of our success. At present don’t imagine our band of thirteen rolling and rollicking in an ecstasy brought on by victory. If you were at Base Camp now you would see nine Sahibs and about fifteen Sherpas lying listlessly around the tents with bloodshot and glazed eyes, thin, dirty and bewildered. Ed now is sleeping as he has done for hours and hours; Charles is just smoking and tired; the talk is very desultory and dull; everyone is quite played out. Five of the other lads will be descending tomorrow from Camp III and they too will come in stiff legged and flogged after the last two weeks.

  Two days ago we were on the South Col urging ourselves to the limit – and now like pricked balloons all our reserves have gone. Yesterday, we came down to Base Camp. Ed, Charles Evans and I were together on one rope and it took hours. I have never been so tired, nor had Ed. Now, if you could see us, you would see the most beaten, played-out, lustreless team of climbers that it is possible to imagine.

  On 25 May the second assault party, Ed and Tenzing, left Camp IV. Here Tenzing prepares the flags that he would later unfurl on the summit.

  I last wrote on 22nd May and since then I have been very high, and the summit has been reached. You will know something of the event from the newspapers but here is as far as I can recall it, the day to day happenings from 22nd.

  When the great lift reached the South Col on 22nd John Hunt decided to launch the Assault Plan and accordingly the closed circuit boys went into action. Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans set off on the afternoon of 22nd with all their bedding tied around their closed circuit apparatus, with spare soda-lime canisters and spanners poking out – in all some 50 lbs. John Hunt went with them on open ci
rcuit as support and possible emergency. Two Sherpas also went (Da Namgyl and Balu, two specially chosen Sherpas) to carry a tent and oxygen above the South Col as a possible emergency ration and shelter in the case of a late descent by Tom and Charles. In the event of this tent and oxygen not being used it was to be added to by the second assault party (Ed and Tenzing) backed by Gregory and three special Sherpas.

  It was at this stage that I came into the story. The original plan did not include me but I was very keen to get to South Col. Because of Ed and Tenzing’s trip to South Col with the Sherpa lift, and their consequent tiredness, they decided to wait a day longer than the original plan. Then it was discovered, mostly by my propaganda, that a little more oxygen and food would be advisable. Accordingly, I was commissioned to escort five Sherpas to South Col along with Gregory and his three special Ridge Camp boys to back up Ed and Tenzing. I spent all 23rd May frantically trying to fix a leak in the oxygen set I was to use. Finally by cutting and binding one of the rubber feed pipes I stopped the hiss. Tom, Charles and John climbed to Camp VII on 23rd.