Südanfahrt, Austria, 222
Sudelfeld Pass, 195
Susa, Italy, 80, 85–88, 99
“Suspicious Minds” (Elvis Presley song), 173
Susten, Switzerland, 115
Suvorov, Alexander Vasilyevich, 134–35
Svevo, Italo, 292
Tarentaise cattle, 61
Tarentaise Valley, 59
Tartarin sur les Alpes (Daudet), 129
The Tartar Steppe (Buzzati), 96–97, 256
Tarvisio, Italy, 279–80
Täsch, Switzerland, 116–17, 125
Taverne de la Tour, 109–10
Tegernsee, Germany, 188
Tegernsee (lake), 188, 190, 193
Tell, William, 132, 261
Terray, Lionel, 170
Tête d’Arolley, 66–68
Teufelsbrücke (Devil’s Bridge), 134, 135
Thompson, Mark, 286
Thonon-les-Bains, France, 23–24
Thunderball (Fleming), 229
Thus Spoke Zarathustra (Nietzsche), 92, 270
Tibetan community in Switzerland, 151
Ticino, Switzerland, 134–37
Tignes, France, 61–62
Toblerone Line, 152n
Tolmezzo, Italy (Tumeiç), 278–79
Top Gear (television show), 263
Torre Aquila (Eagle Tower), 242–43
Totes Gebirge, 223–24
Tour de France (La Grande Boucle), 64–65, 73, 78, 253
Tracht, 223
Trafoi, Italy, 263
A Tramp Abroad (Twain), 129
transhumance, 150
Tre Cime (Three Peaks) di Lavaredo, 257–59, 276
Treno Alta Velocità (TAV), 84, 85n
Trent, Italy (Trento), 241–43
Tridentine, 242
Trieste, Italy, 277, 291–94
Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere (Morris), 293
Tristan und Isolde (Wagner), 192
“Triste, triste était mon livre!” (Verlaine), 292
Trofeo Mezzalama, 60
Les Trois Vallées, 59–60
Tumeiç, Italy (Tolmezzo), 278–79
Tunick, Spencer, 126
Turin, Italy
about, 93–94
and bullet train, 85
film studios and motion pictures, 94
Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche, 91–93
and House of Savoy, 57, 71
Luxemburg Bookshop, 91–93
Mole Antonelliana, 94
view of the Alps, 46, 92–93, 94–95
Winter Olympics in 2006, 94
Turing, Alan, 32
The Turin Horse (movie), 93n
Twain, Mark (Samuel Langhorne Clemens), 82, 83, 129, 217
Tyrol, Austria, 179–81, 196, 197, 261, 274
Ulysses (Joyce), 292
UNESCO World Heritage Sites, 13, 24, 136, 213, 252, 266
Unterach am Attersee, 229
Unterammergau, Germany, 184
Untersberg, 204
Untersbergmassif, 204
Unterwalden, Switzerland, 132
Uri, Switzerland, 132, 134, 135, 136
Urtijëi, Italy (Ortisei, St. Ulrich in Gröden), 249
Ussel, 96
Ussher, James, 9
Vadian, Joachim, 148–49
Valais (Wallis), Switzerland, 60, 99, 108, 112, 115, 123
Val d’Isère, 62–63
Valle Morrobia, 137–38, 140–41
Val Venosta (Vinschgau), 262
Vaud, Switzerland, 11, 112
Venetian Alps. See Dolomites
Verbier, 108
Verlaine, Paul, 292
Verrès, 95
Vevey, Switzerland, 13, 114, 252
Via Claudia Augusta, 180, 186
Via Francigena, 71
Via Italica, 18
Victoria (queen), 119
Vintler, Niklaus and Franz, 245–46
Vipiteno, Italy (Sterzing), 260
Virgil, 76
Visconti, Luchino, 192–93, 229
Visconti and the German Dream (Huckvale), 192
Visp, Switzerland, 116
Voltaire, 10, 197
von Trapp family, 82, 182, 204, 210, 230
Voog, Daisy, 172
Vorderiss, Germany, 188
Vosges Mountains, 139
Voyages dans les Alpes (Saussure), 36
Vršič Pass, 281–84
Vuarnet, Edith (née Bonlieu), 28
Vuarnet, Jean, 26, 27–28
Vuarnet, Patrick, 28
Wagner, Richard, 167, 168, 182, 190, 192
Wall, Germany, 195
Wallgau, Germany, 188
Wallis (Valais), Switzerland, 60, 99, 108, 112, 115, 123
Walpole, Robert, 73
Wanderer Above the Sea of Fog (Friedrich), 92
Wank, 187–88
Welcome to Chamonix (Potard), 39
Weyringer, Johann, 238
The White Spider: The Classic Account of the Ascent of the Eiger (Harrer), 170, 171
The White War (Thompson), 286
Whymper, Edward, 118–20, 168
Wiborada, 147–48
Wieskirche, Germany, 184
Wildbad Kreuth, Germany, 188
Wildkirchli, 150
Wildkirch (Wild Church), 150
Windham, William, 47
Wolff, Virginia, 40n
Wolkenstein, Italy (Selva di Val Gardena), 250n
wood sorrel, 82
World Cup, 88, 99–100, 269
World War I
“Avanti Savoia!” battle cry of Italian soldiers, 58
at Caporetto/Kobarid, 245, 284–89
in Carnic Alps and the Dolomites, 275–76, 277
Franz Josef’s declaration of war in 1914, 220–21
Isonzo Front, 285, 287–88
Italian attack on Austrian possessions, 243–44
starvation of Italian POWs, 285
Wurst, Conchita, 232
“Year Without a Summer,” 19
yodeling, 152–53, 158, 236
“Youth of the World” (newsreel), 187
Zell am See, Austria (Zell), 230–32
Zellersee, 232
Zermatt, Switzerland, 116, 117–21
Zermatt museum, 118–20, 135
Zernez, Switzerland, 267
Zugspitze, 181, 186, 198
Zu Mantua in Banden (At Mantua Bound) (folk song), 261
Zuoz, Switzerland, 267
Zwingli, Huldrych, 148
ALSO BY
STEPHEN O’SHEA
Back to the Front: An Accidental Historian Walks the Trenches of World War One
The Perfect Heresy: The Revolutionary Life and Death of the Medieval Cathars
Sea of Faith: Islam and Christianity in the Medieval Mediterranean World
The Friar of Carcassonne: Revolt Against the Inquisition in the Last Days of the Cathars
Copyright © 2017 by Stephen O’Shea
All rights reserved
First Edition
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