nieves penitentes, 77
Nobel Prize, 13
Noel, John, 23, 109, 110, 111, 130, 134, 176
North Face equipment company, 96, 98, 102
North Pole, 28
Norton, E. F. “Teddy”:
on 1922 Everest expedition, 83, 87, 88, 89
on 1924 Everest expedition, 24, 36, 39, 50, 65, 71-72, 108-9, 112, 116, 118, 119, 120, 121, 123-28, 134, 150, 168, 176, 178
Norton, Jake, 20, 22, 30, 34, 35, 37, 56, 58, 60, 61, 65, 71, 95-96, 104, 135, 140, 141-42, 143, 145, 147, 148, 158, 159, 160, 163
NOVA, 29, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 63, 64, 135, 146
nude bathing, 44
Observer (London), 64
Odell, Noel, 23, 25-26, 36, 39-40, 50, 65-66, 72, 109, 112, 113, 117, 118, 119-20, 122, 123, 127, 128, 129, 130-33, 138, 144, 150, 166, 167, 170, 171, 176, 178
“old English dead” body, 26-27, 28, 29, 38, 72, 151, 173
On High Hills (Young), 47
“Oriental inertia,” 117
Oxford University, 11, 24, 43, 112, 114
oxygen, bottled, 27, 36, 94, 110, 121, 122, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 135, 138, 146, 174-75
Anker’s avoidance of, 31, 143, 148, 156, 158
benefits of use of, 24, 88, 89, 93
discarded canisters for, 31, 56, 143, 156
flow rates of, 144-45, 157, 159
Irvine’s mechanical adjustments made on apparatus for, 24-25, 26, 113, 114-15, 170
Mallory’s initial skepticism toward, 24, 84
Messner’s ascents without, 33, 126
modern improvements in, 166
oxygen deprivation, 20, 31, 32, 85, 86, 125, 156, 157, 158, 170-71
Pakistan, 98
Paterno, Joe, 99
Pawlowski, Ryszard, 162
PBS, 55, 56
Pemba (Sherpa), 161
Penn State University, 99
pitons, 165
Plato, 43
Poland, 105
Politz, Andy, 22, 30, 31, 33, 34, 37, 56, 60, 62, 95-96, 104, 135-40
Pollard, Thom, 54-55, 105, 135, 136, 138-40, 172
porters, 23, 80, 81, 84, 110, 116, 124, 127, 129, 132, 176
1924 expedition’s problems involving, 116-18, 119-21, 122
“Tigers,” 121, 123
Western climbers’ attitudes toward, 70-71, 77, 78-79 see also Sherpas
Potterfield, Peter, 57
Presidential Range, 12
Primus stoves, 124
Prometheus Unbound (Shelley), 112
Psalm 103, 37, 140
puja ceremonies, 70-71, 100, 111, 117, 156
Pumori, 140
Pye, David, 43, 48, 51, 52, 53, 82
Queen Victoria (Strachey), 75-76
Raeburn, Harold, 74, 75, 79
Rainier, Mount, 29, 57, 100, 142
Revelation Mountains, 14
Rheinberger, Michael, 146-47, 155, 157
Richards, Tap, 22, 30, 34, 35, 37, 58, 60, 61, 65, 71, 95-96, 104, 135, 140, 141-42, 143, 145, 147, 148, 158, 159, 160, 163
RMI (Rainier Mountaineering, Incorporated), 57, 58
Roberts, David:
on Ethiopian expedition, 59
and plan of book, 16
Robertson, David, 41, 49, 53, 62-69, 177
Robson, Mount, 97
Rocky Mountains, 97
Rongbuk Glacier, 20, 28, 76-77, 78, 116, 152, 169
Rongbuk Monastery, 69, 70, 71, 73, 111, 117, 156
rope, 139
old vs. modern, 21, 47-48, 72, 165 see also fixed ropes
Rosa, Monte, 41
Rowell, Galen, 98-99
rowing, 112, 114
Royal Geographical Society, 78, 178
Russia, 105
St. Paul’s Cathedral, 70, 178
Salkeld, Audrey, 27, 29, 42, 64, 87
Salt Lake City, Utah, 98, 99
Sanders, Cottie (Ann Bridge), 42, 45-46, 48
Santa Rosa, Calif., 65
Scott, Robert Falcon, 67, 177
Scott, Shellene, 67
Seattle, Wash., 29, 55, 60, 61
separation, as climbing error, 94-95
Seven Summits, 99
Shaw, George Bernard, 75
Shaw, Seth, 100-101
Shawangunk Mountains, 12
Shekar Dzong, 108
Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 112
Sherpas, 58, 71, 72, 84, 90, 95, 103, 105, 118, 119, 124, 128, 129, 130, 132, 140, 141, 142, 143, 147-48, 161, 162, 167
deaths of, in 1922 avalanche, 90, 110-11, 178 see also porters
Shisha Pangma, 57
Shrewsbury public school, 112
Simonenko, Valentyn, 93
Simonson, Eric “Simo,” 31, 54, 55, 56, 57, 60, 64-65, 66, 68, 69, 74, 78, 86, 95, 105, 135, 138, 142, 143, 153, 154, 155, 158, 159, 163
background of, 57-58
as guide, 29, 57
leadership style of, 58
1999 Everest expedition team assembled by, 29
previous Everest expeditions of, 29, 30, 58, 96, 138, 143, 146
sirdars, 79, 140
skiing, 113
Slovenia, 105
Smythe, Frank, 72
snow blindness, 36, 118, 125, 127-28, 147
Snowdon, Mount, 52
Sobek, 59
Somervell, Howard, 178
on 1922 Everest expedition, 83, 87, 89, 90
on 1924 Everest expedition, 24, 108-9, 112, 116, 118, 120, 121, 123-27, 133-34, 164, 176
South Pole, 67, 177
Spirit of Man, The (Bridges), 112
Spitsbergen, 24, 109
“Stella” letter, 67-69
Stern, 63, 162
Stiletto Needle, 12
Stoppers, 150
Story of Everest, The (Noel), 176
Strachey, James, 44, 45
Strachey, Lytton, 44-45, 75-76
Strang-Watkins Challenge Cup, 113
Strutt, Edward, 83
Stump, Terrance “Mugs,” 99-100, 103
Switzerland, 84, 113
Symposium (Plato), 43
Tacoma, Wash., 163
Taos, N. Mex., 142
Tasker, Joe, 39
Telluride, Colo., 97
Tennessee, 13
Tenzing Norgay, 12, 72, 77, 175
Terzeul, Vladislav “Slava,” 54, 93-95
“Third Pole,” 74, 174
Tibet, 17, 26, 30, 58, 62, 66, 77, 103, 108, 111, 114, 150, 174
Tibetan language, 78, 79, 111, 120, 127
Tigers, 121, 123
Time, 62
Times (London), 64, 75
Torre Egger, 98
trekkers, 58, 67
Trisul, 83
Tyndale, Harry, 46
Ukraine, 93, 105, 106
United States, Mallory’s lecture tour in, 92, 108
Unna cookers, 124, 129, 167
Unsworth, Walt, 45, 113
Utah, University of, 97-98
Venice, 52
Victoria, Queen of England, 177
Vinson, Mount, 57, 146
Waddington, Mount, 12
Wales, 41-42, 44, 45, 50, 52, 53, 153, 168, 180
Wang Hongbao, 26-27, 28, 29, 32, 38, 72, 151, 173
War Office, British, 112-13
Washington State Historical
Museum, 68, 163
Western Cwm, 77
Wheeler, Edward, 81-82
Whetu, Mark, 147, 155, 157
White Island, 29
Whittaker, Lou, 57
Wickersham Wall, Mount McKinley, 13
Wilcox party, 14
Winchester public school, 40-41
wind, climbers’ strength drained by, 94
World War I, 45, 49, 51-52
“yellow brick road,” 156
Yosemite National Park, 98, 99, 153
Young, Geoffrey Winthrop, 46-47, 48, 49, 50, 52, 53, 82, 90, 91, 119, 165, 168, 172, 178-79, 180
Young Climber’s Grant, 97
Younghusband, Sir Francis, 176, 178
Zangrilli, Fabrizio, 60
The Lost Explorer Page 21