Constant Companion ordered the Key West, a sandwich in a nice, big bun made with slices of ribeye with green peppers and onions, all covered with Swiss cheese ($2.95). CC nodded his approval of the Key West after his first bite. So that’s what we both ordered when we made a return visit to Al’s Grill Friday at noon. We split an order of onion rings, and I ordered stuffed jalapeños (you get six for $3.25) from the list of appetizers. Let me tell you, these babies, stuffed with cream cheese and plenty of spice, are hot. Hot, hot, hot. I ate three of them and decided I better lay off. But if I get a cold this winter, I know I will swing by Al’s Grill and order some of these jalapeños to clear out my sinuses.
Al’s Grill isn’t exactly the type of place you’d take your mother-in-law. But then again, you might. This place appeals to a variety of people. Many of them have one thing in common: They like Jimmy Buffett. In fact, the Grand Forks Jimmy Buffett Fan Club meets at the Parrot’s Cay at 7:30 P.M. every Thursday. Last week, 42 of them flew to Denver for the Jimmy Buffett concert. Mark Johnson says the idea of the Cay is to have fun. As long as patrons aren’t out of line, he figures they can enjoy themselves at his place. The music has a happy Jamaican beat. Johnson says country western is too depressing.
Decker spends most of his time back in the nice bright kitchen of the Grill. He makes his own hamburger patties and roasts the beef for sandwiches. It’s reassuring that he quickly invites you out to see his kitchen. It’s that clean.
Al’s Grill is the heart of a tavern where people who work hard come in to play hard and enjoy life. It’s an upbeat place.
Sanders 1907 Never Lets Its Customers Down
* * *
OCTOBER 19, 1994
* * *
Gordon and Sandi Schnell of Dickinson, N.D., walked by our table at Sanders 1907 Friday evening with happy—almost smug—smiles on their faces. They had eaten at Sanders, and they were more than pleased with themselves for thinking far enough ahead to make a reservation three months ago.
They knew the past weekend, which was homecoming at UND, would be booked at Sanders. Gordon had eaten the Swiss Eiger beef, Sanders’s version of prime rib, and Sandi had enjoyed walleye meunière, with the fish crisply sautéed.
We, too, were complimenting ourselves for having made reservations in August for Sanders. With us were our favorite judges—our son-in-law, Dale Sandstrom, and daughter, Gail Hagerty, from Bismarck.
Constant Companion knit his eyebrows as he studied the description of split beef ribs. He was happy when our waiter announced that the ribs, instead, were pork that night. CC said, “Good, I never order beef ribs.”
Ocean scallops were one of the specials, and DS decided to ask for them. For him, it was a tough choice because he has on previous visits enjoyed the Eiger beef. I followed suit with scallops. GH went the Maryland crab cakes route because, as she said, you don’t often find them on menus.
After making the tough decisions, we sat back and enjoyed the ambience. There’s an intimacy and feeling of friendly camaraderie about the place. The good feeling comes from the anticipation of good food, talk and laughter.
A basket of coarse, crusty bread that is a trademark of Sanders arrived before the salads. We all dug in and commented about the cranberry-pecan bread. It’s one of the new creations of Kim Holmes, who is going on 10 years at the helm of the small cafe on Kittson Avenue in downtown Grand Forks.
Then came the salad. I had ordered the Greek version, which I enjoyed to the last piece of crumbled feta cheese. It was a fine salad, with Greek olives, a cucumber spear and a slice of a big, fresh-tasting tomato on greens. DS also had the Greek salad; CC and GH chose the Italian salad.
When our entrees arrived, I was reminded once again that presentation is everything. Our scallops were served on a bed of wild rice with asparagus spears arranged wagon wheel fashion, and a side garnish of lemon and lime wedges. The scallops were just right. Too much heat, and you get rubber. Too little heat, and you get squish-squish. These were done to perfection, and there were at least a dozen of them. They were served with Sanders prairie sauce, described by our waiter as “a little sweet with a lot of heat.”
CC was well-pleased with his ribs and rosemary potatoes, although he wasn’t able to finish the whole serving. We helped him out by sampling. GH was reinforced in her opinion that Sanders crab cakes with remoulade sauce are the ultimate.
It was enough already. But then came the dessert suggestions. We decided to order just one dessert—the pecan torte—so that we could all take a taste. That was working quite well until I found the dessert so compelling I finished it off while the others were chatting.
Arby’s Adds Another Dimension to Fast-Food Scene
* * *
FEBRUARY 18, 1995
* * *
“This is good roast beef,” said Constant Companion as we ate sandwiches for the first time at the new Arby’s on South Columbia Road.
I especially liked the bun that came with my turkey sandwich. The turkey was moist and tasty. We often have visited Arby’s on our travels and wished there was one in Grand Forks. Now, it’s here, with a convenient parking lot and a light, bright interior. It’s decorated in soft shades of blue, green and gray. And there are banners that say, “Go West. It’s Better Out Here.”
When you call the restaurant, you get the answer, “It’s a great day at Arby’s.”
The western theme, the roast beef, the good cheer. That’s Arby’s.
I noticed a no-smoking sign on the door as we entered. We stepped up to the counter and concentrated on the reader boards long enough to decide CC wanted a Philly Beef and Swiss sandwich ($2.89), and I wanted a Light Roast Turkey Deluxe ($2.18). I felt self-righteous eating it because it was only 300 calories.
We skipped the sauces at the condiment counter even though there is a sign that says, “Go ahead and add a little kick.” You can have Arby’s sauce, honey sauce and ketchup. We’re not much for sauces on our meat.
Each month, Arby’s has a special. We noticed quite a few customers eating the Beef ’n Cheddar sandwiches that are four for $5 through February. Arby’s also has four kinds of chicken sandwiches, ham, subs and French dip.
Manager Sharon Becker, who came here from the Bismarck Arby’s in Kirkwood Mall, says half of the business here is done inside, and the other half is drive-through. Becker was assistant manager in Bismarck, where she had worked 10 years. Long enough to know that it’s fun to work on the sandwich assembly line and not so great on the fry line.
“But then,” she says, “someone has to do it.”
She says the opening in Grand Forks in December was huge. “People were standing in line outside waiting to get in.”
The local Arby’s is the sixth in North Dakota.
Noel’s Brings the Sweet Smell of Curry to Downtown
* * *
JULY 26, 1995
* * *
Small cafes such as Noel’s Cuisine on Demers make the dining scene in Grand Forks an adventure. We had eaten Noel Singha’s Pakistani food a couple of years ago, when he and his wife, Caryn, leased the dining room of the American Legion Club in East Grand Forks. We enjoyed the curry dishes so much at the time that we went back a couple more times. We like to savor the curry and eat the warm bread, called naan.
Noel’s has moved to the location that for years was Web’s Cafe. We went there Thursday with our houseguest, Fran Froeschle, who used to write food columns for the Detroit Lakes (Minn.) paper when she was managing editor there.
My first surprise—a pleasant one, indeed—was to find the interior changed. Instead of the two horseshoe counters, there are only booths, about 10 of them. And there is fresh blue paint with homey valances of rose and blue tones on the windows. A cheery decor.
Noel’s has a sort of ma-and-pa arrangement. Noel is the chef, but both he and Caryn cook. She was serving the food. The menu lists breakfast and lunch items to suit American tastes. We studied the shorter menu of Pakistani food.
With more than a
passing interest in food, Friend Fran (FF) studied the list of appetizers, which includes samosas (pastry stuffed with potatoes, peas and spices for $2.50), and seikh kebab (ground meat and spices for $2.25). Fran ordered aloo tikka (potato cutlet seasoned with spices for $1.75). We all took a taste and found this appetizer to be delightful patties made of potato, onion, green chili and other spices.
Then came the entrees. FF ordered a half tandoori chicken ($6.25), which is marinated in yogurt, lemon juice and spices, roasted and served on top of rice. CC ordered chicken curry ($6.25). After discussing the degree of spiciness with Caryn, he decided to ask for the mild, rather than hot curry. And mild was hot enough.
My choice was lamb biryani. This is a dish made of spring lamb marinated in spices, green chili, coriander, mint, yogurt, fresh-squeezed lemon and served with basmati rice and ghee (clarified butter) with saffron for $8.95.
We all tasted and savored the three dishes and were pleased with the quality of meat and how thoroughly it was cooked and how well it tasted with the flavored rice. “It’s interesting,” FF said, “how they cut up chicken differently, so you don’t know what part it is.”
My lamb was tender and tasty. We all agreed it was the dish we would order on another visit to Noel’s Cuisine. My serving was so ample that I took half of it home.
I noticed regulars eating vegetarian curry dishes. Noel’s serves curries with chickpeas, spinach, potatoes and lentils. The menu also lists Bombay potatoes and okra curry, spiced tea and an Indian dessert. There is a complete list on a reader board of Pakistani foods served for lunch, which are cheaper than dinner prices. This is a good place to stop for a change of pace at noon—a break from the soup and sandwich routine.
Caryn says in their first year, business has been OK. “We have a good following of people who like curry, but we have a problem with some thinking this is only Pakistani food.”
Marilyn says, “Noel’s restaurant went with the flood of 1997. . . . The owners went back to Pittsburgh, I am told, and he died there. It was a fun little restaurant with a very loyal following.”
“Ruth and Cherie Show” Goes On Daily at Dacotah
* * *
AUGUST 2, 1995
* * *
“Ham dinner and a tuna sandwich with soup,” Ruth hollers at the kitchen door.
“More coffee?” Cherie asks a customer, as she pours from a thermal pot.
Ruth stops to play with a baby in a high chair at a long table near the back of the restaurant. Cherie moves over to the cash register as three downtown lawyers get ready to leave. This is the “Ruth and Cherie Show.” It goes on every weekday morning at the downtown Dacotah Restaurant. The two waitresses work side by side. Only a few of the customers realize they are mother and daughter.
Ruth Schnebel has been a waitress in Grand Forks for almost 40 years—ever since she started working for Mrs. Oliver, at the Golden Hour, in 1958. From there, she went to the Palace Cafe, the Elks Club and on to Miller’s Super Fair on South Washington, where she proudly served up the popular pancakes and homemade syrup.
After a brief interlude at Gordy’s on Gateway Drive, Ruth landed at the Dacotah eight years ago.
Here, she is almost an institution. She knows the customers and what they will order. She works well with her daughter, Cherie Kennedy, who started in the restaurant business when she was 14. She washed dishes first at the Palace, and then moved on to be a waitress.
Ruth starts the day at 7 A.M. and finishes at 1:30 P.M. Cherie comes in at 8:30 A.M. and finishes at 2 P.M., in time to rest up for her evening job in maintenance at UND.
Ruth and Cherie are so established and so comfortable in their routine at the Dacotah that work doesn’t seem hard to them. Ruth usually presides at the rear of the coffee shop, and Cherie’s post is up front. They know their tables and their customers.
“Sometimes, I go back and punch down the toast when I see certain customers come in,” Ruth says. “We know what they will order.”
“Most of the time, we just ask if they want the usual,” Cherie says. “They say ‘the usual,’ and it makes it easy.”
The regulars who come to the Dacotah have their regular tables. There’s a round one toward the front, where you might see John Shaft, Ed Fuehrer or Larry McEnroe. Larry Rux holds down another setting toward the back of the restaurant. Then there’s a big round table at the rear, where you find a cross section of Grand Forks men. You might see Dennis Page, Barry Behlhoff, Walt Mikkelson, Tom Jelliff or Jerry Haley. It varies from day to day.
Occasionally, there will a be a woman or two at the round table at the front. The tables at the rear of the restaurant seem to be a male bastion. Always, there is the bantering back and forth with Ruth and Cherie.
“I have to give my customers a bad time,” Ruth says. “The customers tell me it’s just like home.”
Their customers at the Dacotah include downtown residents and people who live in the Dacotah Place apartments. “You miss them if they move away or die,” Ruth says.
Cherie is still bummed out over the death of Mabel Jack, who lived downtown and came in for coffee and something chocolate. “If we didn’t have chocolate, she would ask for a bowl of soup,” Cherie says.
Breakfast items at the Dacotah include a full run of eggs, hash browns, toast, cereal and better-than-average pancakes. Customers help themselves from a pastry bar that features homemade rolls for 95 cents and a wide array of doughnuts, cookies and pie.
Ruth’s people order a lot of chef salads ($3.95). Cherie’s customers are partial to soup and sandwiches. Each day, the list of noon specials is written on a board. They include items such as a cup of soup and codfish dinner for $4.25. Soup could be old-fashioned tomato or turkey dumpling.
There’s usually a footlong hot dog for $1.60. You can get a mini chef salad for $2.95 and a regular chef salad for $3.95. A cup of soup with a tuna salad sandwich and fries is featured at $3.50. You can get a three-piece chicken dinner for $4.25 some days.
Cherie says she and her mother have grown close working together, although she says, “About every seven weeks, we have a little tiff.” Working with her mother has given her a chance to see Ruth in a different light than at home.
“She’s pretty cool,” Cherie says. “I never realized how much fun my mother could be.”
The Dacotah succumbed to the Red River flood of 1997. The space has been the home of a number of post-flood businesses, and is currently Shing Ya, a Japanese restaurant.
It’s No Bologna—Minto’s 10th Annual Sausage-Making Extravaganza That Is Held Each January Is Not Your Average Cooking Contest
* * *
JANUARY 24, 1996
* * *
MINTO, N.D.—He thought he was going home empty-handed—again. Instead, Merlin Feltman of Grafton, N.D., carried away the first-place trophy from the 10th annual bologna contest here in the Harvey Street Saloon.
This is not your average cooking contest. It is a happening. It draws sausage-makers from two or three counties each January. Last Friday night, there were 66 sausages, or bologna, entered. As teams of judges sampled and savored sausage, parents of Boy and Girl Scouts of Minto were making hay. They served a meal including sausage stew and accepted donations of $1,137 for the Minto Scout programs.
Pickup trucks and vans lined Main Street of this Walsh County community and by 7 P.M., it was getting to be standing room only in the saloon.
Chris Misialek, the barkeeper, presides over the contest with the help of loyal friends. It was 34 degrees below zero outside, but they had to keep opening the doors because it was too warm inside. Around 11 P.M., after a cracker-eating and whistling contest, winners of the bologna competition were announced.
Feltman, a bachelor farmer, was surprised to win after several unsuccessful attempts. Like many competitors, his recipe is a family secret. He will say he uses a 60 percent to 40 percent mix of venison and pork. He flavors his bologna with “garlic and all kinds of stuff.” He uses a smokehouse he built on his farm,
and his winning ring of sausage was made in a batch of 35 pounds.
Like others, Feltman says he makes sausage to carry on a family tradition. He has a background of Polish and Norwegian grandparents and parents who used to make sausage. After they quit, Feltman took it up.
Joan Slominski, who won last year’s contest, made sausage 20 years ago before taking a 10-year break. She restarted when her daughter, Sandy Schrank of Grafton, decided she wants her kids to know how to make sausage.
Slominski says, “We use venison mostly. We have used beef and pork. We like to use the venison. We all hunt long enough to get our sausage meat. We freeze it and use it all year round. We serve it with potatoes, beans or hotdish. I take it out to the workers in the fields. They all like it. If you think you don’t have enough food, just throw in a ring of bologna and you’re sure you have enough meat.”
Suzi Votava Tibert says when you help make bologna, you learn how to do it. And the more people helping, the faster it goes. Tibert is a two-time winner of the classic at Minto. She always hopes for fairly warm weather on sausage-making day. With the right temperature in the smokehouse, she says you get a good, smoky taste and look.
As for the annual contest, Slominski says, “I wouldn’t miss this thing. There are people here you might not see the rest of the year.”
Red Lobster Reels ’Em In with Seafood, Biscuits
Grand Forks: A History of American Dining in 128 Reviews Page 12