To detach the beard, you can use any remover you normally would use for adhesive or prosthetics. (Isopropyl myristate works great and is gentle on the skin.)
1. Take a powder puff and dip into the remover.
2. Apply to the skin and use gentle strokes in a circular motion until the hair is removed and the skin is no longer tacky.
I found the results to be exceptional and with a little practice I hope you do as well.
Reference
Kupitz Cimuha, Inc, Kupitz, E.H., wig maker design, laying of facial hair and lace facial pieces. Tel: 818-769-6465.
Mungle Mungle, M. www.matthewmungle.com.
Tinsley Tinsley, C. www.tinsleytransfers.com.
10. Airbrush
Airbrush makeup is a tool in creating certain looks, especially a flawless finish to the skin. Airbrush makeup has also found a niche in the retail cosmetic world. It is used in all areas of makeup: beauty, body makeup, body art, tattoo cover, bruising, effects, and fantasy. Airbrush is used in all media—print, film, television, and theatre—and is a mainstay in HD and HDTV. The airbrush machine is a tool that is going to be a personal preference for the artist and the actor/talent you are working with. In some situations, or in makeup design, you will have to airbrush to create the look that is needed. In other situations, the department head will require you to airbrush. You will be at an extreme disadvantage if you do not learn how to airbrush and care for the equipment.
What is an airbrush? An airbrush is a small, air-operated tool that sprays various media, including ink and dye, but most often paint, by a process of atomization. An airbrush works by passing a stream of fast-moving (compressed) air through a venturi, which creates a local reduction in air pressure (suction) that allows paint to be pulled up from an interconnected reservoir at normal atmospheric pressure. The operator controls the amount of paint by using a trigger that opens a fine tapered needle.
Understanding Your Airbrush
By Badger
Airbrushes have three usual characteristics:
1. Action performed by the user triggering the paint flow.
2. The mechanism for feeding the paint into the airbrush.
3. The point in which the pressure (PSI) and air mix. (PSI means measurement of air pressure, i.e., pounds per square inch.)
There are two different ways that an airbrush mixes air with paint, allowing you to airbrush:
Internal Mix: The paint and the air mix together inside the head assembly to produce a thoroughly atomized fine-dot spray pattern.
External Mix: Indicates that air and paint mix outside the airbrush. Air and paint come together outside the head, or fluid assembly. External-mix airbrushes produce a larger-dot spray pattern than internal-mix airbrushes.
Airbrush Triggers
Single Action: Refers to airbrushes on which the trigger controls only the airflow. When the trigger is depressed, a preset amount of fluid is sprayed. The amount of fluid is regulated by turning the needle adjustment screw at the back of the handle, or, in the case of an external-mix airbrush, by turning the fluid cap on the paint tip at the front of the airbrush.
Dual Action: Refers to airbrushes on which the trigger controls both air and color (down for air, back for color). This simple maneuver allows the artist to change the width of the line, the range of value, and the opacity of paint without stopping hand motion.
Feeds
Gravity Feed: Refers to airbrushes with top-mounted color cups in which gravity draws paint into the airbrush. Less air pressure is required, enabling slower hand movement, which creates excellent control for fine detail.
Bottom Feed: Refers to airbrushes on which paint enters through a siphon tube or color cup attached to the bottom of the airbrush. Removable jars or various-sized color cups can be connected to and utilized with bottom-feed airbrushes. This configuration is generally more versatile and enables the user to change colors quickly. This is important when working with several colors at once. This enables the artist to move quickly when changing colors, as well as for storing colors during use.
Side Feed: Refers to airbrushes on which a small color cup fits into the side of the airbrush. The side-feed color cup rotates, enabling the user to work on either a horizontal or vertical surface. The side-feed configuration also permits the user to achieve fine detail without the possible sight obstruction of a top-mounted color cup.
Hybrid Airbrush: Airbrushes that have a combination of gravity and bottom feed.
Airbrushes
Badger Model 100 G: Gravity-feed airbrush with -ounce color cup (Figure 10.1).
Figure 10.1 Badger Air-Brush Model 100 G
Badger Model 100MU: Airbrush with ⅓-ounce color cup and makeup-specific head assembly (Figure 10.2).
Figure 10.2 Badger Air-Brush Model 100MU
Badger 360 Universal: Airbrush is capable of performing in a gravity-feed as well as a bottom-feed mode (Figure 10.3).
Figure 10.3 Badger Air-Brush 360 Universal
Badger Model Omni 5000: Gravity-feed airbrush with ⅛-ounce color cup (Figure 10.4).
Figure 10.4 Badger Air-Brush Model Omni 5000
Paasche VJR#2: Gravity feed, double action, internal mix. Airbrush used to create a wider range of tinting, shading, and details. Color cup is on top for easy color changes. Good for both right- and left-handed users (Figure 10.5).
Figure 10.5 Paasche Airbrush VJR#2
Paasche H#3 Single Action: External mix airbrush.
Paasche Talon Double: Double-action, gravity-feed airbrush (Figure 10.6).
Figure 10.6 Paasche Airbrush Double Action Gravity
Iwata HP-C Plus: Large gravity-feed cup with a large needle-nozzle configuration. Fine-spray output, and entire range of stippling effects. Airbrush has a short paint passageway.
Pro Tip
Makeup Artists often use airbrushes that have stipple features for effects work. Temptu offers a large selection of Iwata products.
Iwata HP-CH: Designed for artists who need control for detail work. Airbrush uses new Micro air-control-valve technology.
Iwata HP-CS: Gravity feed with 0.35-millimeter needle and nozzle combination for fine-detail spraying. Generous-sized cup and funnel shape.
Iwata HP-CR: Gravity feed designed for quick change of custom-mixed colors. Internal-mix airbrush, ergonomic handle design, fine-detail work, and easier spraying.
Eye shadow is best applied via an airbrush with a very fine needle/ nozzle ratio like the Iwata High Performance HP-B, which is 0.2 millimeter. Although much too light to apply foundation, it gives you the ability to keep your colors focused. Fine-needle/nozzles are popular for lining eyes, and with effects artists for veining. An appropriate needle/nozzle range for most airbrush makeup, both face and body, is 8 millimeters + 5 millimeters, with the wider apertures leaning toward the body makeup end of things. The smaller the nozzle, the more control you have. When the nozzle is too small, the application will take longer than necessary unless you need to focus the range of space you are working on.
—David Klasfeld, CEO/Creative Director, Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics, Inc.
Compressors
Terminology
CFM: Measurement of airflow.
Moisture Filter: Removes water from air.
Oil Filter: Removes oil from air.
PSI: Measurement of air pressure (pounds per square inch).
Air Regulator: Adjusts air pressure.
Listing
Iwata Smart Jet Pro: Compressor shuts off automatically when not in use. It has an oil-less piston air compressor with built-in airbrush holder; moisture filters (removing water from air) with an air regulator (adjusts air pressure); and bleed-valve adjustment to release moisture.
Pro Tip
Compressors with built-in airbrush holders are extremely convenient when working in a makeup trailer, especially if you are working with an airbrush with a top color cup.
Iwata Power Jet: Compressor has oil-less dual-piston air with a 3.5-liter air-storage t
ank. It has zero pulsation, moisture filter, and a mounted pressure gauge with air regulator for precise air-pressure adjustment.
Iwata Power Jet Pro: A compressor with a 2-liter air-storage tank with zero pulsation and an air reserve for spraying at higher air pressures. It has dual-adjustable pressure regulators plus dual-moisture filters and dual-mounted pressure gauges. The compressor also has dual quick-disconnect ports and dual built-in airbrush holders.
Iwata Power Jet Lite: Adjustable pressure regulator, moisture filter, and built-in airbrush holder.
Iwata Silver Jet: Compact and quiet single-person use with working pressure adjustable from 10 to 18 PSI. The compressor has a coiled air hose, pressure-adjustable knob, handle, airbrush holder, and pressure gauge.
Iwata Sprint Jet: A mounted air-pressure gauge with a bleed-valve airflow adjustment to lower air pressure. Pressure works from 1 to 35 PSI. Zero maintenance with an oil-less piston air compressor.
Pro Tip
Makeup companies (such as Mac Pro and Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics), which offer small portable compressors, often use the Iwata Series.
Paasche D100: ⅛-horsepower compressor delivers 15 to 25 PSI with most model airbrushes (Figure 10.7).
Figure 10.7 Paasche Airbrush D100
Paasche D500SR: ⅛-horsepower with switch and regulator, which is capable of delivering 20 to 40 psi. With an oil-less piston.
Paasche D3000R: Oil-less diaphragm compressor that is tank mounted. The compressor is compact and portable with a maximum of 40 PSI (Figure 10.8).
Figure 10.8 Paasche Airbrush D3000
Badger Model 80–3 Mini Compressor: Produces 3 to 5 PSI (Figure 10.9).
Figure 10.9 Badger Model 80–3 Mini Compressor
Badger Model 80-7xaIR Compressor: Produces 10 to 12 PSI (Figure 10.10).
Figure 10.10 Badger Model 80-7X Air Compressor
Badger Model 80-8x Air Compressor: Produces 10 to 12 PSI with built-in regulator (Figure 10.11).
Figure 10.11 Badger Model 80-8X Air Compressor
Pro Tip
In general, use compressors with a lower PSI or compressors that allow you to adjust the settings for direct airbrushing on the face. The higher the PSI, the more kickback you'll get from the product.
All-in-One Airbrush Systems
Small all-in-one airbrush systems have fantastic overall weight. Traveling with these compressors is a snap, and using one in small spaces is a breeze. This size goes anywhere, a great advantage for the professional. There are no fancy pressure gauges or moisture meters that make airbrushing intimidating. Air Pro, Temptu, and Dinair are a few of the portable-airbrush companies on the market today (Figure 10.12).
Figure 10.12 Temptu Compressor and Gun
Pro Tip
Small compressors with an output of 6 to 8 PSI are perfect for the face and small areas of the body, such as covering tattoos.
Battery Compressors: Runs on a battery pack. Great to take your airbrush on set or in any situation where you need to be mobile.
Ninja Jet: Compact size, airbrush holder, carry handle, low-maintenance oil-less piston motor. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics (OCC) sells starter kits.
Temptu: AIRbrush Makeup System.
Dinair Mini-System Beauty Kit: Compressor weighs less than a pound. The system comes with a travel adapter (100 to 240 volts), and has a PSI of 0 to 7. The airbrush is a Dinair 400CA. Also included are stencils, instructions, and makeup (Figure 10.13).
Figure 10.13 Dinair Mini System Beauty Kit
Airbrush Product Lines
By Bradley Look
People ask me all the time about the dangers of airbrushing. There is an unfounded fear about the airbrush. What I usually find is that airbrushing is not being properly used in some of those cases, which leads to many of those problems. As a Makeup Artist, it is your responsibility to stay on top of the most current information and how products interact with each other. Manufacturers of airbrushes, compressors, and airbrush makeup all have instructions, plus suggestions on how to use their products so that you'll get the most from airbrushing with success. Before you start using that airbrush, know what makeup is available and, more important, what kind of makeup you are buying. What is in airbrush makeup?
Here are the six formula breakdowns of airbrush makeup available:
Water Based: This type of makeup is not unlike the standard liquid variety: finely ground, cosmetic-grade approved pigments dispersed in water. Water is the most common solvent found in cosmetics, and is usually referred to as aqueous dispersion.
Pro Tip
Water-based makeup makes cleaning your airbrush equipment easy. Just clean after each use with water.
Polymer Water Based: This cosmetic formulation is one of the more commonly used for airbrush makeups. Once the makeup is airbrushed, the polymer vehicle upon drying produces a continuous film on the skin.
Polymer SD40-Alcohol Based: This is just like the polymer water-based formulas (listed above), with one major difference. SD40 alcohol is used as the solvent in place of water. The alcohol assists in the drying of the product on the skin.
Alcohol Based: This type of airbrush makeup is normally known within the makeup industry as the “temporary airbrush inks” associated with the production of faux flesh art (tattoos).
Silicone Based: This is the newest formula of all the airbrush makeups currently available. This brand of cosmetic claims that it stays looking “just applied” all day without fading or wearing away.
Pro Tip
To alter coverage of silicone-based products, you can thin them only with formulas that work with silicone. (Example: Mac Pro has an airbrush cleanser that also works as a thinner for their silicone-based airbrush makeup.)
DHA Based: Although technically not really considered an airbrush makeup, DHA (dihydroxyacetone) based products constitute the sunless-tanning systems. The use of the airbrush in spraying cosmetics gave the sunless-tanning manufacturers an idea: Why not produce a formula that can be atomized?
Now let's talk about makeup and what is on the market today. Products are listed by their brand name and/or by the manufacturer's name. All of the products listed are pre-reduced to a consistency for spraying straight from the bottle. However, if you should desire to thin the product further, check with the manufacturer first. Also, these products have been formulated to be atomized at a low PSI, usually between 3 and 6. Using the right product for the right job means a good makeup.
Airbrush Bodyart: Airbrush product available in both water and alcohol formulations. DHA tanning system offered as well.
Airmakeup Cosmetics: Polymer water-based product.
AirPro Airbrush Makeup: A water-based formula. The company also has a sunless-tanning solution. Airbrush cleaner is available for the line.
Bodyair: Polymer water-based line of products.
DCK Airbrush Cosmetics: Polymer water-based product line.
Dinair: There are three product lines available through this company: polymer water based, polymer SD40-alcohol based, and DHA. Dinair also manufactures an airbrush cleaner.
Duratat: Water-based tattoo ink containing no alcohol.
Fantasy Faces: Polymer SD40-alcohol–based formulation. Thinner for product also available.
Fashion Aire Foundation: Polymer water-based and sunless DHA formulation. An airbrush cleaner is available.
Graftobian: Polymer water based as well as polymer SD40-alcohol based. Both thinner and airbrush cleaner are available.
JanTana: DHA sunless tanner.
Jomo: SD40 alcohol based.
Kett Cosmetics: Water based and polymer SD40 alcohol based. An airbrush cleaner is also available.
KRYOLAN: Currently, KRYOLAN has a polymer water-based and an SD40-alcohol–based product line.
MAC Airbrush: Polymer water based and silicone SD40 alcohol based.
Make Up For Ever: Water and alcohol based.
Mancini Airbrush Makeup: Water based and offers an airbrush cleaner.
The Makeup Artist Handbook Page 20