Silicone Rubbers (Smooth-Sil Series): Silicone rubbers are two-component systems, and are available in ranges of hardness from very soft to medium. Silicone can be cured with a platinum catalyst or a tin catalyst. You can make molds that are poured, brushed, or sprayed onto a model. Silicone can have negative results when coming into contact with other products such as sulfur clays. Silicone also must be accurately mixed by using a scale.
Gelatin: Can be poured into a silicone mold. The appliance picks up more detail from the mold if the silicone is slightly heated before pouring the hot gelatin.
Safety Tip
By Smooth-On
Materials are safe to use when following directions by the manufacturer. Federal law requires that manufacturers provide important information in the form of a material safety data sheet (MSDS). The MSDS provides all pertinent information on a product—ranging from directions for proper use to safety precautions, a list of active ingredients, associated hazards, combustion levels, and storage requirements.
Problems That Might Arise When Mold-Making
If the mold has soft spots (partial cure):
1. It was not mixed correctly (premixed).
2. It was not mixed thoroughly.
3. The product was contaminated.
4. It was not correctly measured.
If your mold stuck to the model:
1. The wrong release agent was used, an inadequate amount was applied; or it was not used at all.
2. The model was not properly sealed.
Quick Overview
1. An original model can be made with almost any material. This includes clay, wax, wood, plaster, stone, metal, bone, or cement (Figure 11.1).
Figure 11.1 Product supplies
2. If you are pouring, use a container wall around your model (Figure 11.2). If brushing, no wall is needed.
Figure 11.2 Model being poured with a container wall
3. Seal all areas of the mold and model if using porous materials: plaster, wood, sulfur, or water-based clays.
4. Use a release agent for all sealed areas. If you are using silicone, a release agent is not necessary.
5. Follow manufacturer directions suited for your project.
Have good ventilation. Do not inhale fumes, rubber products, release agents, sealers, fillers, resins, plasters, and so on. Wear good rubber gloves, and minimize skin contact while working. Wash your hands with soap and water, or anywhere there has been contact with products.
Protect your surfaces from spills with wax paper, brown paper, or your own favorite setup towels. Keep your station clean by keeping utensils clean, and surfaces washed with acetone or alcohol to remove any materials that have spilled. Gelatin can be simply washed off.
What should you have in your kit for mold-making? Smooth-On suggests the following:
Wood or acrylic pieces for container walls (this is for containing any product from spilling over). Mold boxes can be homemade.
Scale
Modeling clay
Mixing containers
Stirring sticks
Sealing agent
Release agent
Mold rubber or molding material of choice
If you find that your mold did not set properly, it could be for one of the following reasons:
1. Wrong mixing measurements
2. Wrong type of scale (should be a gram scale or triple beam balance)
3. Temperature too cold
Steps to silicone mold-making with Smooth-On:
1. Sculpt (Figure 11.3).
Figure 11.3 Sculpt
2. Release (Figure 11.4).
Figure 11.4 Release
3. Mix product (Figure 11.5).
Figure 11.5 Mix product
4. Apply thin layer (Figure 11.6).
Figure 11.6 Thin layer
5. Apply second coat (Figure 11.7).
Figure 11.7 Second coat
6. Apply third coat (Figure 11.8).
Figure 11.8 Third coat
7. Remove mold (Figure 11.9).
Figure 11.9 Remove mold
8. Scrape clay (Figure 11.10).
Figure 11.10 Scrape clay
9. Measure out (Figure 11.11).
Figure 11.11 Measure out
10. Mix flesh tones (Figure 11.12).
Figure 11.12 Mix flesh tone
11. Mix A and B (Figures 11.13A and B).
Figure 11.13 Mix
12. Mix quickly (Figure 11.14).
Figure 11.14 Mix quickly
13. Spread in mold (Figure 11.15).
Figure 11.15 Spread in mold
14. Release with powder (Figure 11.16).
Figure 11.16 Release with powder
15. Done (Figure 11.17).
Figure 11.17 Finished piece
Terms
You should know the following terms as they pertain to mold-making and appliances:
Adding Color: Mixing pigments or flocking materials to a product before being cast into a mold.
Alginates: Seaweed-based products used to take an impression of an object or person to be used in mold-making.
Chavant NSP Clay: Sculpting clay that holds fine details, sculpture free and available in soft, medium, or hard grades.
Casting: A product being used in a mold to create molded reusable appliances.
Cure: A chemical reaction that occurs when you mix two ingredients together that finish.
Cure Inhibition: Certain casting products can be inhibited by contaminants used in or around a work area, causing the molded product to remain tacky or not to cure.
Demolding: When your product has cured enough to be taken out of the mold.
Green Marble SeLr: Makeup sealer, used in aging techniques and for multiple layers.
KRYOLAN Crystal Clear: Protective coating with clear finish that doesn't yellow.
Myristate: An additive for high-grade cosmetics. Also used as an emulsifier or moistening agent.
Mix Ratio: The proper mix of products.
Plastics: Products such as W.M. Creations, Inc. A.M.E.K.-based liquid plastic. Not to be used directly on the skin. Use in stone or silicone molds.
Pot Life: How long the product mixed will last for usage.
Pros-Aide: A prosthetic adhesive that can be mixed with acrylic paints. Has a strong bond.
Pros-Aide Bondo: Pros-Aide mixed with Cab-O-Sil.
Platinum Cure Silicone Rubber: Abrasion and heat resistance in a versatile product for mold-making productions. Materials such as plastics, concrete, wax, low-melt metal alloys, or resins can be cast into silicone-rubber molds.
Release Agent: An agent used to help release the product that was cast from the mold.
Rigid Gypsum Molds: Known as stone molds.
Slush Casting: Products that are to be used in a mold, poured and worked around the inside of the mold until all areas are covered. You can slush several layers on top of each other. Each layer must be cured before applying a new layer.
W.M. Creations, Inc. Soft Sealer: Product used to seal wax, gelatin appliances, and as a sealer on the back of gelatin appliances to prevent moisture from attacking gelatin.
Silicone Mold-Making
By Matthew Mungle
[This is a technique that can be used on location with professional results.]
Silicone is a flexible material, and easy to demold appliances. Once a silicone mold is made, it should last indefinitely. Silicone molds can be made quickly and on location.
What should you have in your makeup kit to be able to create silicone molds and appliances? Components of a mold-making kit follow:
Silicone mold-making materials
Small spatulas
Throwaway brushes
Liquid soap such as Ivory clear soap
Pros-Aide Bondo
W.M. Creations, Inc. Soft Sealer
Medical mixing cups
Chavant NSP Clay
Sculpting tools
Steps to Silicone Mold-Making
1. Set up your station. Make
sure there are no latex gloves or sponges near the work area. Wash your hands and lay down setup towels (preferably paper towels).
2. Sculpt the desired form out of Chavant NSP clay (non-sulfur clay). Spray the clay with one light coat of KRYOLAN Crystal Clear, and dry thoroughly (about three minutes). Mix the silicone material (Third Degree molding material or Skin Tite by Smooth-On). These two products are platinum-silicone based, and are affected by latex or sulfur products. Paint the silicone material onto the sculpture with a finger or throwaway brush, making sure not to trap bubbles in the cast. Build the material up at least 1 inch to avoid warpage. Let dry at least 30 minutes, and then demold.
What to Pour into the Mold
Suggested materials that can be poured into the mold would be plastic, Pros-Aide Bondo, and silicone products.
Applying the Finished Prosthetic:
1. Set the appliance in place on the skin area, holding tweezers if necessary (Figure 11.18).
Figure 11.18 Step 1: Place on skin
2. Applying a small amount of 99-percent alcohol under the appliance with a brush or cotton-tipped applicator, let the appliance blend (melt) into the skin (Figure 11.19).
Figure 11.19 Step 2: Melt into skin
3. Blend off any soft sealer edges with 99-percent alcohol (Figure 11.20).
Figure 11.20 Step 3: Blend off any soft sealer
4. Color with Stacolors, activated with 99-percent alcohol (Figure 11.21).
Figure 11.21 Step 4: Color with sta colors
5. Paint with cut example (Figure 11.22).
Figure 11.22 Step 5: Paint with cut
6. Finished painted cut (Figure 11.23).
Figure 11.23 Step 6: Finished painted cut
7. Adding blood (Figure 11.24).
Figure 11.24 Step 7: Added blood
8. Cut and blood (Figure 11.25).
Figure 11.25 Step 8: Cut and blood
9. Finished scar (Figure 11.26).
Figure 11.26 Step 9: Finished scar
10. Seal with a soft sealer if necessary.
Painting Prosthetics
When an appliance is translucent, there is a realistic quality that shouldn't be painted over. Stacolors, which are activated with 99-percent alcohol, give you the flexibility to paint in thin layers like a wash (translucent) or opaque (dense so it cannot be seen through). Apply Stacolor with brushes, sponges, or cotton-tipped applicators. Stacolors also come in liquid form, which you can use in an airbrush without having to thin the product first.
Remove products with isopropyl myristate, Super Solv, or baby oil. Clean skin first with 70- or 90-percent alcohol. Do not use near the eyes (Figure 11.27).
Figure 11.27 Matthew Mungle
Silicone Prosthetics
Materials
Plastic wrap
Transparent tape
Black Sharpie
Scissors
Pencil
Formica project board or make-up counter top
Chavant NSP Brown Medium Clay
Sculpting tools
Texture stamps
KRYOLAN Crystal Clear Spray
Mouldlife Sculpt Gel (A, B, and C)
Metal spatula
Black W.M. Creations, Inc. Stacolor Liquid
Epoxy Parfilm
Mold-size cardboard (see instructions, step 15)
99% alcohol
RCMA No Color Powder
Powder puff and straight pin
Procedure
1. Determine what size the prosthetic appliance will be on the face. Create a tracing of the area off the actors face with plastic wrap, covered with transparent tape and a black Sharpie as you would for a beard pattern. Write “top” at the top of the tracing to help in positioning the piece on the board and on the face later (Figure 11.28).
Figure 11.28 Step 1
2. Cut the shape out of the plastic wrap with a pair of scissors. Trace the pattern out on the Formica project board or on a Formica make-up counter top with a pencil (Figure 11.29).
Figure 11.29 Step 2
3. Sculpt the prosthetic using NSP Chavant Clay and Sculpting Tools (Figure 11.30).
Figure 11.30 Step 3
4. Make sure the edges of the prosthetic are blended out. This will be the edge that is blended onto the actor's face.
5. Texture the appliance and edges.
6. Spray the sculpting with a light coat of KRYOLAN Crystal Clear Spray. Let dry for 10 minutes (Figure 11.31).
Figure 11.31 Step 6
7. Build a flashing wall around the sculpting 1/4" wide by 1/8" tall with additional NSP Clay (Figure 11.32).
Figure 11.32 Step 7
8. Spray sculpting and flashing with one more coat of KRYOLAN Crystal Clear Spray. Let dry for 10 minutes.
9. Wash hands and dry.
10. Scoop out equal portions of A and B Mouldlife Sculpt Gel with a metal spatula and mix together thoroughly in a plastic cup. Clean the spatula before dipping into each side of the Sculpt Gel containers to avoid cross contamination. Important note: Sculpt Gel is a platinum-based silicon and will not set up if exposed to a latex product (Figure 11.33).
Figure 11.33 Step 10
11. Add 15 drops of W.M. Creations, Inc. Black Stacolor Liquid to the Sculpt Gel mixture and stir thoroughly.
12. Carefully paint the Sculpt Gel onto the sculpture with your clean finger, working the product into all the sculpted detail. Use a back and forth motion to prevent trapping bubbles. This first coat should cover the sculpture and past the flashing 1/4". Let this coat cure for 30 minutes or until completely set (Figure 11.34).
Figure 11.34 Step 12
13. Mix a larger batch of A and B Sculpt Gel product, twice as much as the first coat.
14. Spatula the material over the appliance and flashing area. Smooth out the top of the mold as flat as possible. Mix one more batch of Sculpt Gel, if necessary, to level the top of the mold (Figure 11.35).
Figure 11.35 Step 14
15. Before the last coat of the Sculpt Gel is set spray a sheet of plastic wrap, the size of the mold, with a light coat of Epoxy Parfilm. Place the sheet on top of the wet Sculpt Gel, sprayed side down.
16. Place a piece of cardboard on top of the plastic wrap and press down very lightly to create a flat surface (Figure 11.36).
Figure 11.36 Step 16
17. Let the material cure for one hour.
18. Pull off the cardboard and plastic wrap from the mold.
19. Peel the Sculpt Gel mold off of the appliance sculpture. The sculpture should stay intact and will be able to be cast several times if need be (Figure 11.37).
Figure 11.37 Step 19
20. Clean the mold, if necessary, with 99% alcohol and a tissue.
21. Spray the mold with a heavy coat of Epoxy Parfilm and massage the separator into the mold with your finger. Spray one additional coat of Parfilm into the mold (Figure 11.38).
The Makeup Artist Handbook Page 23