The Makeup Artist Handbook

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The Makeup Artist Handbook Page 35

by Gretchen Davis


  Platysma

  Muscles on the neck that draw the lower lip downward and upward.

  Circulatory System and Veins

  The circulatory system is made up of two different systems: the pulmonary (the right side of the heart receives deoxygenated blood from the body and pumps it to the lungs) and the systemic (the left side of the heart receives oxygenated blood from the lungs and sends it to the body; arteries carry blood from the heart to the tissues and organs; veins return the blood to the heart).

  Arteries

  Aorta

  Largest artery in the body.

  Brachiocephalic Trunk, Right Carotid, and Right Subclavian Arteries

  Provide blood to the neck, head, and upper limbs.

  Celiac Trunk, Superior Mesenteric Artery, and Inferior Mesenteric Artery

  Supply blood to the abdominal internal organs.

  Coronary Arteries

  Supply blood to the heart.

  Left and Right Common Iliac Arteries

  Abdominal aorta divides into left and right common iliac arteries.

  Left Carotid, Left Subclavian Arteries

  Provide blood to the left side of the head, neck, and upper limbs.

  Renal, Suprarenal, and Gonadal Arteries

  Provide blood to internal organs at the back of the abdominal wall.

  The Veins

  Brachiocephalic

  One of two veins that form the superior vena cava.

  Hepatic Portal Vein

  Vein that leads from intestinal veins to the liver.

  Inferior Vena Cava

  Receives blood from the pelvis, abdomen, and lower limbs.

  Internal Jugular

  Receives blood from the head and neck area, including the brain.

  Portal System

  A set of veins that deplete blood from the intestines and the supporting organs.

  Splenic Vein

  Vein leaving the spleen.

  Subclavian

  Empties blood from the shoulder area.

  Superior Mesenteric

  Blood returns to circulation by way of the small intestine.

  Superior Vena Cava

  Receives blood from the upper body by way of the internal jugular, subclavian, and brachiocephalic veins.

  Additional Terms

  AD

  Assistant director.

  Adding color

  Mixing pigments to a product.

  Additive Color

  Adding primary colors to come to white light.

  Additive Color Mixing

  Color mixing with lights.

  Airbrush

  A small, air operated tool that sprays various media such as ink, dye, or paint, through the process of atomization.

  Air Regulator

  Adjusts air pressure.

  Alginate

  A thickening agent derived from seaweed and giant kelp that absorbs water quickly and is used as a mold-making material in makeup effects and prosthetics, life-casting, and textiles.

  Analogous

  Colors next to each other on the color wheel.

  Atomization

  To reduce to fine particles or spray.

  Background

  Background artists (actors) or extras working in a scene.

  Black

  Absence of all color.

  Blank Out

  To start with a blank canvas.

  Blending

  Applying makeup using tools to achieve a smooth seamless finish.

  Bloom

  The strength or rigidity of the brand of gelatin.

  Bondo

  Cab-O-Sil (silica) that is mixed with Pros-Aide to form a thick paste.

  Brightness

  Percentage of transmission of the full spectrum of energy.

  Bull Pen

  Working the line with many other makeup artists painting for the crowds with little time to do it.

  Cab-O-Sil

  A silica substance that is mixed with Pros-Aide (adhesive) to form a thick paste.

  Cast

  Actors appearing in the scenes.

  Casting

  To assign an actor a role.

  Casting

  To form (metal, plaster, rubber, etc.) into a particular shape by pouring it into or brushing it onto a mold, while it is in a fluid or liquid state, and letting it harden.

  Center of Gravity

  The point of the body that dictates where the weight is distributed.

  CFM

  Measurement of airflow.

  Characters

  Names of the characters that the actors will be playing.

  Chavant NSP Clay

  Sculpting clay.

  Chiaroscuro

  An Italian term meaning light dark. The term originated as a type of Renaissance drawing on colored paper.

  Chief Makeup Artist

  What a makeup department head is called in Europe.

  Closed set

  Means there are no visitors allowed on the film set.

  Complementary

  Any colors 180 degrees apart on a 360-degree color wheel.

  Complementary Colors for Light

  Complementary colors are also called secondary colors.

  Contour

  Darker colors that are applied to any area the Makeup Artist wants to set back.

  Correction Filters

  To balance a given light source.

  Crew Call

  Time the crew is called into work.

  Cure

  A chemical process that allows materials such as plaster, rubber, and gelatin to change from a liquid or fluid state to a solid form.

  Dark and Halftones

  Halftones divided into light and dark.

  Deadener

  Smith's (Gordon J.) Prosthetic Deadener is an additive designed to work in concert with Platsil Gel-10 (or any platinum silicone) to create a complete theatrical prosthetic design system for the motion picture industry (www.fxsmith.com).

  Demold

  Taking hardened product out of a mold.

  Digital

  Using data in the form of numerical digits in a computerized format.

  Digital Cinematography

  When film is substituted with a digital format for recording images.

  Digital Motion Pictures

  Images that are captured and stored in a digital format, in this case motion pictures.

  Digital Photography

  Images captured in a digital format that records the images and stores them on a computer chip, until they are to be printed or viewed on a screen or monitor.

  Digital Television

  Pictures and sound that are captured and stored in a digital format for recording, viewing, and/or broadcasting images.

  D/N

  Means day or night on a call sheet.

  Dominant Wavelength

  Apparent color of the Light.

  Dot Method

  Placing dots instead of straight lines in makeup application. For example to create a stronger lash line.

  DP

  Director of photography.

  Dual Tone

  A pigment that changes hue from mass tone (pure color straight from a tube or powder) to top tone (adding white to a color).

  Extra

  Background actor or artist.

  Fairy Soap

  A brand-name, gentle bar soap for hygiene, used widely in Europe and can be used to clean molds and/or prosthetics.

  Foundation Primers

  Makeup used to even out the texture of the skin.

  Gaffer

  Lighting designer.

  Gel Filters

  Filters are used in front of a light source to change what the light is putting out.

  Gelatin

  A colorless protein formed by boiling the skin, bones, and connective tissue of animals to form a glue-like substance, used by makeup artists for a variety of reasons, such as mold-making.

  Green Marble SeLr

  A makeup sealer created
by Kenny Myers and Richard Snell for Premiere Products.

  Half tones

  All of the value (degree of lightness or darkness) variations in a color.

  High-Definition Television or HDTV

  Television broadcast using higher resolution formats.

  Highlight

  Lighter colors that are applied to any area the Makeup Artist wants to have stand out.

  Holding and Catering

  Where the extras are being held, and where the food is located on a film set.

  Hue

  Any color in reference to the color spectrum and/or a gradation or variety of shades of a color tint.

  Imaginary axis

  An imaginary axis used by artists to determine where the weight of the body changes.

  Licensed Aestheticians

  Expert in skin care.

  Makeup Department Head

  The person in charge of designing and running the makeup department.

  Mass Tone

  Color right out of the tube or pure powder pigment.

  Mattifying Products

  Products that are made to take down shine.

  Media

  Plural for medium used in fine arts to refer to the material or technique with which an artist works, and/or a liquid with which pigments are mixed.

  Moisture Filter

  A filter for the purpose of removing water from air.

  Monochromatic

  Any color mixed with white. The various shades of a single color.

  Nitrile Gloves

  Gloves made of nitrile rubber, a synthetic rubber resistant to fuel, oil, and other chemicals. Nitrile gloves can be worn when working with platinum-addition RTV silicone (used in prosthetic making) since they will not react negatively with the silicone.

  Oil Filter

  A filter made for the purpose of removing oil from air.

  Opaque

  Not transparent (see-through/clear glass) nor translucent (semi-see-through/frosted glass); not allowing light to pass through.

  On the Clock

  Official time record of work being done for payment.

  Pantone 187C

  A brand name paint color created by Pantone, Inc., using their Pantone Matching System for creating specific colors for various uses, such as painting prosthetics.

  PAX Paint

  Acrylic paint mixed with Pros-Aide adhesive used for painting prosthetic appliances.

  Plasteline Clay

  A type of modeling clay that can be used in mold-making.

  Platsil Gel-10

  A fast-curing rubber that can be used as an adhesive to adhere a prosthetic to the skin.

  Poly Fiber II

  A brand-name compound used to thicken polyurethane rubbers and plastics for making brushed molds and shells. The level of thickening can be easily controlled to make thin gels to thicker pastes.

  Pot Life

  The open or working time for how long you can manipulate a material before it starts to set or cure (harden).

  Primary Color

  Three primary colors that can be mixed together to make all other colors.

  Pros-Aide

  A prosthetic adhesive.

  PSI

  Pounds per square inch, a measurement of air pressure.

  Purity

  The intensity of a distinctive hue or saturation of a color. Similar to chroma, which is the purity of a color or its freedom from white or gray.

  Rays

  A wave of radiant energy in the form of beams of light, such as ultraviolet rays.

  RCW Color Wheel

  In Don Jusko's color wheel, every color has an opposite color to be used in mixing neutral darks.

  Reflected Light

  A light source that is produced by bouncing off of objects in the surrounding environment.

  Releases

  Products that help to remove cast items from their mold.

  Removers

  Products that come in many different formulas used to remove adhesives, eye makeup, or a variety of makeup applications.

  SC#

  Scene numbers in the script.

  Secondary Colors

  Colors made by mixing together two primary colors.

  Secondary Colors in Light

  The combination of two primary colors.

  Set Call

  The time that stand-ins and background actors report to the set.

  Shadow

  When a form turns away from the light source, half-tones become darker until the light completely goes away.

  Silicone

  Inert, synthetic compounds with a variety of forms and uses. Typically, heat-resistant and rubber-like, used in sealants, adhesives, lubricants, cosmetics, and so on.

  Smith's Prosthetic Deadener

  A prosthetic additive developed by the special effects Makeup Designer, Gordon J. Smith, as part of Smith's Prosthetic System (see Deadener).

  Soft Box

  A photographic lighting device used to create a soft, diffused (made less brilliant) light by directing light through a diffusing material, or by bouncing light off a second surface.

  SPF

  Sun protection factor.

  Spot Paint

  A technique used to balance out the skin tone.

  Stippling

  To use an up-and-down motion while applying makeup with a brush, sponge, or textured sponge.

  Stipple sponges

  Textured sponges used for different stippling effects.

  Superior Mesenteric

  Blood returns to circulation by way of the small intestine.

  Swinging

  Caused by the center of gravity being shifted from one leg to another.

  Textures

  The surface properties of a color.

  Thinners

  Thinners are products made to thin adhesive products.

  Tints

  Adding white to any hue.

  Top Tone

  Adding white to a color.

  Translucent

  Permitting light to pass through but diffusing it so that persons, objects, and so on on the opposite side are not clearly visible (e.g., frosted glass).

  Transparent

  Easily seen through; having the property of transmitting rays of light through its substance so that bodies or objects situated beyond or behind can be distinctly seen (e.g., clear glass). Dyes that are clear.

  Triadic

  Any three colors that are 120 degrees apart on the color wheel.

  Undertone

  Adding clear media.

  UVA Rays

  Light rays that penetrate the surface of the skin and damage the connective tissue.

  UVB Rays

  Light rays that cause damage to the surface of the skin such as burning.

  Vertical Axis

  The centerline that correctly defines proportions of the facial features when the head is moved in different angles.

 

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