www.wunderground.com/blog/JeffMasters/show.html—For more in-depth discussions about weather events, Jeff Masters was interesting.
www.crownweather.com—This site also had in-depth explanations of what weather was happening or coming.
http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/text/MIAOFFNT3.shtml—This site had a more concise and technical version of what was happening with seas and wind.
http://www.caribwx.com—Many boaters listen to Chris Parker on their SSBs. We were able to pick him up in the Bahamas, but we lost him farther south. A paid subscription to his website will provide more personalized weather information.
There are many other websites that other boaters swear by, and there are other weather reporters you can listen to on your SSB. In some anchorages, other boaters used the VHF to provide the whole harbor with the weather reports they received. It’s all good, and you should take advantage of as many sources as you can. If things don’t add up, be wary!
DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT …
SPARES. As LESSON 16A tells you, you cannot have too many spares. At the very minimum, I would have a spare alternator, starter, alternator voltage regulator, battery, and propeller. Then I’d keep plenty of spares of every belt, bolt, bulb, and filter (oil, fuel, and water) used on the boat. Composing this list is a long and drawn-out process but a necessary one. Puerto Rico, St. Thomas, St. Martin, Martinique, and Grenada will likely have what you need when something breaks, but don’t count on it (and expect to pay more for it).
TOOLS. This list could go on forever, but we found these tools to be the most used: fixed wrenches, flathead screwdriver, Phillips-head screwdriver, metric and standard socket sets, rubber oil-filter remover, Oil Boy fluid extractor (to remove oil from engine and saildrive), sail sewing kit/awl/palm (for little sail tears), electrical multitester/meter, and bolt cutter (in case the worst happens and you have to cut through the shrouds due to a dismasting). Don’t forget a gas/diesel funnel filter (such as Mr. Funnel) to save you from heartache over bad fuel.
TO BE OR NOT TO BE A CLOTHESHORSE
WHAT TO BRING. We heard many people say you didn’t need many clothes on a boat. That may be true if you’re chartering for a weekend in the BVIs, but if you’re living aboard your boat, you’ll need changes of clothes.
Why? Anchorages can be crowded and not everyone will want to look at your bits and pieces. You will leave your boat, and the locals of the place you’re visiting will not appreciate your nakedness or your skimpy wardrobe (no matter what they’re wearing). You will need to go to customs and immigration. You will need to go grocery shopping. You might want to eat out every once in a while. You will tour the island and might even go hiking.
At least have a wardrobe that can take you until the next washing. Plus, you will be surprised at how nippy 25 knot winds, spraying seas, and 80 degree temperatures on a cloudy day can be. Rain is cold.
Here’s what I recommend for Caribbean sailing: foul-weather gear, lots of bathing suits, cover-ups, sundresses, long skirts, shorts, canvas slacks, pajamas, and as many quick-dry pieces of clothing as you can afford. Workout wear is perfect. T-shirts, underwear (at least a couple of pairs), tank tops with built-in bras, a few belts, a cozy fleece sweatshirt (as opposed to cotton, which can get clammy and take forever to dry), and a couple of long-sleeved shirts for cold, wet days.
For shoes you might want nonskid white-soled boat shoes (note that not all boat shoes are nonslip), swim shoes, sandals (for both men and women), flip-flop type shoes, and maybe trail running shoes (which come in nonmolding material and can be used for hiking, walking, and exercise). Michael brought golf shoes and dress shoes and they both rotted in the dampness and humidity. My one pair of shoes with heels also disintegrated.
If you bring too much stuff (even sheets and towels), you will find it getting moldy and smelly and will produce lots of laundry.
LAUNDRY. Some boats have washing machines, but they’re big energy and water guzzlers. We found some harbors with entrepreneurs who would pick up laundry from your boat (or let you take it to them) and return it clean, folded, and smelling nice for a reasonable $30EC (around $15US). We liked those anchorages. Other times we used our bucket method employing water and ammonia for everything but sheets or really filthy clothes. Laundromats could be hard to find and were almost always expensive. We used them at times, but then hung our clothes out to dry on the boat (and hoped that birds didn’t poop on them).
WHAT DID WE DO ALL DAY?
ENTERTAINMENT. We were surprised to discover how much time we spent on our boat just sitting around, usually waiting for weather, which included waiting out five to six months of hurricane season. Books, DVDs, and games were a huge commodity.
Not a game person? You will be! Cards, dominoes, cribbage, Monopoly. Bring ’em all. If you have something unique, you’ll be the most popular person in the anchorage. Having good music will also give you points. Before we left the States, we downloaded a lot of music. Jacumba came mp3 player ready, which allowed us to plug an iPod or similar device to the boat’s stereo system (including outdoor speakers). We didn’t have an mp3 player, but we connected our laptop to a Y-adapter cable (easily found in places such as Radio Shack).
CHORES. I don’t think we need to beat a dead horse, since I told you all we were doing, but let me give you a few tips on cleaning. We cleaned a lot. The exterior fiberglass discolored easily from rust, Saharan dust, ash, island grime, dirt particles in rain, bugs, and sunlight. We worked hard to keep Jacumba white and waxed the sections of the hull that were above water, as well as a lot of the fiberglass in the cockpit and the outer main cabin. Footprints showed on the white fiberglass, and the cat’s and my hair got everywhere.
We’d use a bucket to throw salt water over the whole boat (outside) and then break out the Simple Green (you cannot have enough of this stuff) and the scrub brush. Then, if possible, we’d wait for rain, put on our foul-weather gear, and scrub the boat clean. When Simple Green didn’t work, Top 2 Bottom always did. It’s expensive, acidic, and toxic, so try not to use it in pristine areas. If it didn’t rain, we used our jerry jug water and gave everything a freshwater rinse.
Keeping the metal clean was important, so after the above water toss, we’d wipe the metal dry and spray it with an anticorrosive spray.
The boat interior would get moldy, so we’d choose an area every few days and spray it with bleach. I tried less toxic stuff (even Simple Green), but the mold came back immediately. Bleach was the only thing that worked. Of course, all my clothes had bleach stains …
BOAT MAINTENANCE. Maintenance can save you money and frustration, so it’s a very important chore. You can find many lists and schedules in books and online to help you remember what you should be checking—things like anchor tackle, rigging, sails, engines, electrical stuff, and safety equipment. Print off some lists and use them. They’ll help the next person who buys your boat, as well.
With or without antifouling paint, your boat bottom will need occasional scrubbing. Caribbean waters may be warmer than farther north, but they’re still cold in winter, and just a half hour in them would turn us blue, even when we were wearing a thin skin. You might want to invest in a thick wetsuit. While you’re in the water, don’t forget to check the props and saildrives, if you have them.
COOKING. Is cooking a chore? I wasn’t sure where to put this. It was a chore to me! We had a good setup with a three-burner stovetop, a barbecue grill, and even a small oven. We tried to cook on deck as much as possible to keep the heat out of the boat, but we used all three of our cooking options. Well, Michael did. I washed dishes. Many boaters become good cooks because there’s nothing else to do, and you have to make do with what you have available. Finding food could be a pain in the butt, particularly if we wanted something specific, but we learned to be flexible. Or mooch from others who had what we were looking for.
TAKING OUT THE GARBAGE. Most islands with large boating populations have trash bins for yachties’ garbage. Some islands charge for
the service but most don’t. The Bahamas presented complications simply because so many of the islands were uninhabited. As I mentioned in LESSON 59, Trash talk, to keep trash to a minimum, we looked for products with the least amount of packaging (such as buying loose local eggs and putting them into our plastic egg containers). We’d then try to get rid of all the remaining unnecessary wrapping (cereal, spaghetti, and toothpaste boxes, for example) at the time of purchase. Cardboard harbors cockroaches, eggs, spiders, and other pests, so it’s best to just keep it off your boat. Buy lots of plastic containers and use them to store food (and they keep edibles fresher longer). If you’re at sea, toss your food waste. Because we had a filter on our kitchen faucet, we didn’t need bottled water (a watermaker also eliminates the need for bottled water), which kept plastic waste to a minimum. Crush your emptied cans; you’ll be amazed at how much space this saves. By employing these practices, once under way we generated surprisingly little trash. We took advantage of islands with recycling. We never brought toxic waste (batteries, used oil) to shore unless we knew that the island had a way to dispose of it properly. Remember, many islands don’t have endless land for landfills and usually burn (or dump) their garbage. Be a good steward of your resources and theirs.
GENERAL STUFF. Most mornings were spent checking weather, with a lot of boaters listening to their favorite forecasters on their SSBs. We used the Internet. Then if the harbor had a cruisers’ net on the VHF, we’d listen in at designated times in the morning. Cruising guides usually alert you to the “net,” as will other cruisers. The broadcast was usually on Channel 68. From the cruisers’ net we’d learn from other boaters or businesses what might be happening onshore. We’d hear about any interesting menus, celebrations, sales, museums, and diving excursions. Anyone who was flying or sailing back to the States would announce that they’d take any mail and drop it off at a mailbox once they made landfall. If we were looking for boat parts, we’d make an announcement to see if anyone had what we were looking for or could bring it back from the States for us. We’d also get the weather, sailing conditions, and news—whatever the announcer thought was important. The net could last 5 minutes or 45 minutes.
Then it was time to eat and get on with our day. We’d try to fix at least one or two boat things a day so those chores didn’t build up, but then we’d try to fit in something fun too. If we could get involved in local events, such as a softball game, or expat-coordinated events, such as a tour or poker game, we did. Evenings were spent either socializing or winding down while watching the sunset. Most boaters went to sleep embarrassingly early—including us.
Of course, everyday things take longer on a boat: doing laundry, grocery shopping, and getting water and fuel. You could lose half a day just doing those activities. Boredom is rarely a problem.
EXERCISE. I found exercising difficult. Obviously, boat chores kept us in some semblance of shape, as did swimming, snorkeling, and hiking when we could. But not all anchorages were clean enough for swimming or safe enough for walking. That led to a lot of drinking, eating, playing games … and gaining weight.
KEEPING IN TOUCH WITH FAMILY. Many boaters have blogs. We also found it to be the easiest way to keep friends and family informed. They’re free and fairly easy to create. Instead of sending e-mails, you can just post the latest on your blog, upload pictures, and have readers comment back on the same blog. You can even permission-protect your blog so that only the people you approve have access to it. Why would you want to do that? Because you never know who else might be reading it.
LESSON 106: WATCH YOUR MOUTH Be careful what you say online. I have to admit, I thought about potential boat buyers reading our blog but assumed they’d understand that the issues we were having were just part of owning a boat. All our other friends’ blogs talked about fixing things too. It’s called maintenance, and you want to hear that someone is working on their boat! Of course, that was incredibly naive and probably cost us a lot of interest and money. I might not have bought Jacumba either had I read everything that was being fixed. Sometimes it’s not a good thing to know what’s behind the curtain.
FURRY FRIENDS
DOGS VS. CATS. It was easier to enter an island with a cat than with a dog (because the assumption was you wouldn’t take a cat to shore). Dogs were more complicated. You’ll likely take a dog to a beach for a walk. Be sure your papers are in order, and have them with you. We heard of people’s dogs shot on sight by remorseless officials because documents were not immediately produced to validate the dog’s legality. Most people had no problems, but be vigilant (and legal). Pet food wasn’t hard to find, but vets were. Just as it’s important to have a decent first-aid kit for humans, it’s important to have one for pets, including a kit to put the animal down if necessary. Many people travel with pets—more than half I’d say.
KITTY LITTER. On land or off, kitty litter stinks (or can). If you plan to use kitty litter, make sure it’s biodegradable so you can dump it in the ocean (or in some way not overtax local landfills). Note that dumping anything (including biodegradable items such as food and litter) is illegal within 3 miles of shore, so keep an old bucket with a lid (such as a paint bucket or even an empty kitty litter container) and scoop the dirty stuff in there until you get offshore. Have lots of kitty litter (it’s readily available, but be prepared to pay a lot for it.) Local sand works but usually contains fleas. We kept our covered box outside under the bimini (rear porch) whenever we could; if you don’t have that option, keep the litter box really clean or you will have a stinky boat. And know that the stuff sticks to all surfaces, including your bed. Our cat learned how to use Astroturf (fake grass mat) in two days; it saved us a big hassle, but it had to be cleaned twice a day, including right after a “big” performance. Good thing we spent lots of time on the boat. Hans and Kristen, on Whisper, used two trays. The top one had rocks in it and the lower one collected urine. Pee dripped to the bottom; poop stayed on the top. They would dunk the whole setup in salt water, bring it back up, soak it with bleach, and empty it. Repeat. A pain? Yes, but we all thought it was worth it.
HEALTH
INSURANCE. You might require access to good care because of your medical history. You might just be a klutz. Some people may be willing to take more chances than others. When we realized that health insurance would be about $5,000 a year for the two of us, with a high deductible, we decided to take our chances. We were healthy and young, so we figured we’d press our luck. Michael did go to a doctor or a hospital a couple of times, but neither visit cost over $100. We did have life insurance though.
FIRST AID. What we didn’t have was a decent first-aid kit. That was not smart. We had a cheap kit with ace bandages and Band-Aids but no antibiotics or painkillers. I highly recommend that you buy a well-stocked kit, especially if you plan to be out there awhile.
Even if you don’t know how to use the stuff in your kit, chances are that someone else will. Nurses seem to be common in crews on the high seas.
AND FINALLY
RELATIONSHIPS. If you’re fighting now, you’ll be fighting on a boat. A rocky relationship between a parent and child might get better once the youngster is away from outside influences; but whatever is ailing you and an adult partner is unlikely to be resolved the way you hoped on a boat. The liveaboard lifestyle is a microcosm, and anything that bugged you before is likely to be magnified once you’re at sea. You’ll both be insecure at times, and it’s important not to turn on each other during those episodes. Two big egos can be problematic as well.
If you’re both up for the adventure and both know what you’re getting into and who’s going to do what (most of the time), you’re a lot more likely to come out of this experience happy and whole.
The End
There. What are you staring at? What more can I tell you? Get out there already!
Appendix
How We Chose Our Island
So how did we come to choose St. Kitts as The One? Well, by deciding that the others weren’t. H
ere’s what we liked and didn’t like about each island we visited.
Bahamas
The Bahamas will always have a special place in our hearts, particularly because we grew into ourselves as sailors there. As tough as things were, the Bahamas turned out to be a good training ground. We learned to sail in the worst conditions—winds were usually over 25 to 30 knots; we had to avoid squalls; we had to learn to read the water so as to not ground out or hit reefs; we got good at predicting weather and how our boat (and we) would act in certain sea conditions; we learned tides; and I got good at using our laptop/chartplotter to set courses. We also tweaked our online sea-condition sources and started honing our skills at using that information to allow for a safe and relatively comfortable trip. We slowly began to understand swells and upcoming weather conditions and gained faith in the charts, the anchor, and our own abilities. It does come in time.
Don’t let anyone fool you. If I had a dime for every time someone told me that the conditions we experienced in the Bahamas were “abnormal,” I wouldn’t have had to sell my car. It’s actually so normal that a lot of boaters avoid the Bahamas altogether when they head south from the States. They join the Cruising Rally Association’s Caribbean 1500. This gets everyone from Virginia to Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands, quickly (about eight days), hopefully ahead of all those cold fronts. If you don’t have a lot of time, it’s better than getting “trapped” in the Bahamas. Plus, if you’re new to offshore sailing, it’s nice to have a little hand-holding.
The good news about the Bahamas? The islands have incredible multihued waters and beautiful beaches. The island chain is one of the few places in the Caribbean (well, close to the Caribbean) that you could truly be by yourself on a deserted island. Over and over again. The Bahamas are safe. You don’t have to lock up your boat or your dinghy. You can snorkel and not worry about your stuff on the beach (with the exception of Nassau, which we avoided). The bad? We thought it was too cold and too expensive, and the islanders, for the most part, were too unfriendly.
A Sail of Two Idiots Page 36