by Craig Boreth
6. To Have and Have Not, p. 135.
7. Hemingway, Ernest, Islands in the Stream, p. 208.
8. Islands in the Stream, p. 208.
9. Hotchner, A. E., Papa Hemingway, p. 37.
10. Hotchner, Papa Hemingway, p. 7.
11. Hemingway, Mary, How It Was, p. 311.
12. Hemingway, Mary, How It Was, p. 311.
13. Islands in the Stream, p. 214.
14. Islands in the Stream, p. 65.
15. Islands in the Stream, p. 222.
16. Islands in the Stream, p. 223.
17. Islands in the Stream, p. 230.
18. Lang, Jennifer Harvey, (Ed.), Larousse Gastronomique, pp. 124-25.
19. Islands in the Stream, pp. 288-89.
20. Hemingway, Ernest, By-Line: Ernest Hemingway, pp. 239-49.
21. Hemingway, Ernest, The Enduring Hemingway, p. xxi.
22. Hemingway, Ernest, The Old Man and the Sea, p. 17.
23. Islands in the Stream, pp. 390-91.
24. Hotchner, Papa Hemingway, p. 194.
25. Hemingway, Mary, How It Was, p. 103.
26. Hemingway, Mary, How It Was, p. 420.
27. Hemingway, Mary, “Life with Papa,” p. 116.
28. Hemingway, Mary, “Life with Papa,” p. 29.
29. Hemingway, Mary, “Life with Papa,” p. 116.
30. Hemingway, Mary, How It Was, p. 242.
CHAPTER 6
1. Hemingway, Ernest, The Complete Short Stories of Ernest Hemingway, p. 370.
2. Baker, Carlos, Ernest Hemingway: A Life Story, p. 609.
3. Complete Short Stories, p. 27.
4. Complete Short Stories, pp. 9-10.
5. Hemingway, Mary, How It Was, pp. 355-56.
6. Hemingway, Mary, How It Was, pp. 347-48.
7. Hemingway, Mary, How It Was, pp. 347-48.
8. Wells, Reginald, “A Christmas Choice of Fair and Fancy Game,” Sports Illustrated, pp. 40-41.
9. Baker, Ernest Hemingway: A Life Story, p. 294.
10. Arnold, Lloyd, High on the Wild, p. 7.
11. Baker, Ernest Hemingway: A Life Story, p. 517.
12. MacMullen, Forrest, conversation with author, September 4, 1997.
CHAPTER 7
1. Hemingway, Ernest, Death in the Afternoon, p. 462.
2. Death in the Afternoon, p. 11.
3. Hemingway, Ernest, A Moveable Feast, p. 158.
4. Villard, Henry S. and James Nagel, Hemingway in Love and War: The Lost Diary of Agnes von Kurowsky, p. 73.
5. Lichine, Alexis, New Encyclopedia of Wine & Spirits, p. 384.
6. Hemingway, Ernest, A Farewell to Arms, p. 6.
7. Reynolds, Michael, Hemingway: The 1930’s, p. 2.
8. A Farewell to Arms, p. 191.
9. A Moveable Feast, p. 37.
10. Hemingway, Ernest, By-Line: Ernest Hemingway, p. 190.
11. A Moveable Feast, p. 101.
12. Baker, Carlos, (Ed.), Selected Letters, p. 808.
13. A Farewell to Arms, p. 38.
14. A Farewell to Arms, p. 113.
15. A Moveable Feast, pp. 53-54.
16. Hemingway, Ernest, The Sun Also Rises, p. 87.
17. Hemingway, Ernest, The Complete Short Stories of Ernest Hemingway, p. 450.
18. A Moveable Feast, p. 127.
19. A Moveable Feast, p. 162.
20. A Moveable Feast, p. 167.
21. A Moveable Feast, p. 19.
22. Lichine, p. 159.
23. A Moveable Feast, p. 174.
24. A Moveable Feast, pp. 43-44.
25. The Sun Also Rises, p. 246.
26. A Moveable Feast, p. 52.
27. The Sun Also Rises, p. 153.
28. A Moveable Feast, p. 128.
29. Hemingway, Ernest, The Garden of Eden, pp. 51-52.
30. A Moveable Feast, p. 55.
31. Fuentes, Norberto, Hemingway in Cuba, p. 64.
32. Lichine, p. 495.
33. The Garden of Eden, p. 16.
34. The Garden of Eden, p. 243.
35. The Garden of Eden, p. 52.
36. Hemingway, Ernest, Across the River and into the Trees, p. 232.
37. Across the River and into the Trees, p. 130.
38. Across the River and into the Trees, p. 177.
CHAPTER 8
1. Hemingway, Ernest, Dateline: Toronto, p. 182.
2. Hemingway, Ernest, For Whom the Bell Tolls, p. 51.
3. Hemingway, Ernest, The Garden of Eden, p. 69.
4. Hemingway, Ernest, Death in the Afternoon, p. 172.
5. For Whom the Bell Tolls, p. 50.
6. Dateline: Toronto, p. 182.
7. Hemingway, Ernest, The Sun Also Rises, p. 15.
8. The Garden of Eden, p. 39.
9. The Garden of Eden, p. 26.
10. Baker, Carlos (Ed.), Selected Letters, p. 619.
11. Baker, Selected Letters, p. 618.
12. Hemingway, Ernest, The Complete Short Stories of Ernest Hemingway, p. 488.
13. Hemingway, Ernest, A Moveable Feast, p. 83.
14. A Moveable Feast, p. 83.
15. Hemingway, Ernest, To Have and Have Not, p. 129.
16. To Have and Have Not, p. 134.
17. Hemingway, Ernest, Islands in the Stream, p. 276.
18. Fuentes, Norberto, Hemingway in Cuba, pp. 228-29.
19. Houk, Walter, E-mail, July 22,1997.
20. Islands in the Stream, p. 281.
21. Hemingway, Ernest, By-Line: Ernest Hemingway, p. 55.
22. Complete Short Stories, p. 5.
23. Complete Short Stories, p. 421.
24. Complete Short Stories, p. 425.
25. By-Line: Ernest Hemingway, p. 449.
26. Hemingway, Ernest, A Farewell to Arms, pp. 302-303.
27. Hemingway, Ernest, Across the River and into the Trees, p. 121.
28. Grimes, William, Straight Up Or on the Rocks, p. 109.
29. Islands in the Stream, p. 258.
30. The Sun Also Rises, p. 233.
31. The Sun Also Rises, p. 41.
32. A Moveable Feast, p. 206.
33. A Farewell to Arms, p. 143.
34. Dateline: Toronto, pp. 356-57.
35. Across the River and into the Trees, p. 82.
36. Griffin, Less than a Treason, p. 142.
37. The Sun Also Rises, p. 110.
38. Islands in the Stream, p. 244.
39. Islands in the Stream, p. 84.
40. By-Line: Ernest Hemingway, p. 247
41. A Farewell to Arms, p. 310.
42. A Moveable Feast, p. 170.
43. By-Line: Ernest Hemingway, p. 275.
44. Complete Short Stories, pp. 612-13.
45. Hotchner, Papa Hemingway, pp. 158,161.
EPILOGUE
1. Hemingway, Ernest, The Complete Short Stories of Ernest Hemingway, pp. 482-84.
Bibliography
BOOKS
Arnold, Lloyd. High on the Wild. Caldwell, ID: Caxton Printers, 1968.
Baker, Carlos, ed. Ernest Hemingway: Selected Letters. New York: Charles Scribners Sons, 1981.
_________. Ernest Hemingway: A Life Story. New York: Scribners, 1969.
Beard, James, et. al. The Great Cooks Cookbook. New York: Ferguson/Doubleday, 1974.
Bertholle, Louisette. Secrets of the Great French Restaurants. New York: Macmillan, 1974.
Brennan, Georgeanne. Aperitif. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1997.
Cappel, Constance. Hemingway in Michigan. New York: Fleet Publishing, 1966.
Casas, Penelope. Discovering Spain. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1992.
_________. Tapas: The Little Dishes of Spain. New York: Knopf, 1989.
_________. The Foods and Wines of Spain. New York: Knopf, 1982.
Castillo-Puche, Jose Luis. Hemingway in Spain. New York: Doubleday, 1961.
Charters, James. This Must Be the Place: Memoirs of Montparnasse. New York: Collier Books, 1989.
Child, Julia. Baking with Julia. New York: William Morrow & Company, 199
6.
Cipriani, Arrigo. Harry’s Bar: The Life and Times of the Legendary Venice Landmark. New York: Arcade Publishing, 1996.
Cipriani, Arrigo. The Harry’s Bar Cookbook. New York: Bantam Books, 1991.
Collins, Larry, and Dominique Lapierre. Is Paris Burning? New York: Pocket Books, 1977.
Conrad, Barnaby III. Absinthe: History in a Bottle. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1988.
_________. Martini. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1994.
Curnonsky and Rouff, Marcel. The Yellow Guides for Epicures: Paris. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1926.
Dannenberg, Linda. Paris Boulangerie-Pâtisserie. New York: Clarkson Potter, 1994.
Dardis, Tom. The Thirsty Muse: Alcohol and the American Writer. New York: Ticknor and Fields, 1989.
Doctorow, E. L. Jack London, Hemingway and the Constitution. New York: Random House, 1993.
Dos Passos, John. The Best Times: An Informal Memoir. London: Andre Deutsch, 1968.
Fuentes, Norberto. Hemingway in Cuba. Secaucus, NJ: Lyle Stuart, 1984.
Giusti-Lanham, Hedy and Andrez Dodi. The Cuisine of Venice and Surrounding Northern Regions. Woodbury, New York: Barron’s, 1987.
Griffin, Peter. Less than a Treason. New York: Oxford University Press, 1990.
Grimes, William. Straight Up Or on the Rocks: A Cultural History of American Drink. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1993.
Heath, Ambrose, ed. Madame Prunier’s Fish Cookery Book. New York: Julian Messner, 1939.
Hemingway, Ernest. Across the River and into the Trees. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1950.
_________. By-Line: Ernest Hemingway. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1967.
_________. The Complete Short Stories of Ernest Hemingway. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1987.
_________. Conversations with Ernest Hemingway. Edited by Matthew J. Bruccoli. Jackson, MS: University Press of Mississippi, 1986.
_________. The Dangerous Summer. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1985.
_________. Dateline: Toronto. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1985.
_________. Death in the Afternoon. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1932.
_________. The Enduring Hemingway. Edited by Charles Scribner. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1974.
_________. A Farewell to Arms. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1929.
_________. For Whom the Bell Tolls. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1940.
_________. The Garden of Eden. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1986.
_________. Green Hills of Africa. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1935.
_________. Islands in the Stream. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1970.
_________. A Moveable Feast. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1964.
_________. The Old Man and the Sea. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1952.
_________. The Sun Also Rises. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1926.
_________. To Have and Have Not. New York: P. F. Collier & Son, 1937.
_________. The Torrents of Spring. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1972.
Hemingway, Mary Welsh. How It Was. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1951.
Hotchner, A. E. Hemingway & His World. New York: Vendome, 1989.
_________. Papa Hemingway. New York: Random House, 1966.
Iribarren, Jose Maria. Hemingway y los Sanfermines. Pamplona: Editorial Gomez, 1970.
Jacques, Marie. Colette’s Best Recipes. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1923.
Lang, Jennifer Harvey, ed. Larousse Gastronomique. Paris: Larousse, 1938.
Lawrence, H. Lea. Prowling Papa’s Waters. Marietta, GA: Longstreet Press, 1992.
Lichine, Alexis. New Encyclopedia of Wine & Spirits. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1987.
MacLeish, Archibald. A Continuing Journey. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1967.
Mclver, Stuart. Hemingway’s Key West. Sarasota, FL: Pineapple Press, 1993.
Miller, Tom. Trading with the Enemy: A Yankee Travels through Castro’s Cuba. New York: Atheneum, 1992.
Reynolds, Michael. Hemingway: The American Homecoming. Cambridge, MA: Basil Blackwell Ltd., 1992.
_________. Hemingway: The Paris Years. New York: Blackwell, 1989.
_________. Hemingway: The 1930s. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, 1997.
_________. The Young Hemingway. New York: Black-well, 1986.
Rodriguez-Hunter, Suzanne. Found Meals of the Lost Generation. Boston: Faber & Faber, 1994.
Rogal, Samuel J. For Whom the Dinner Bell Tolls. Bethesda, MD: International Scholars Publications, 1997.
Samuelson, Arnold. With Hemingway: A Year in Key West & Cuba. New York: Random House, 1984.
Sandier, Bea. The African Cookbook. New York: Citadel Press, 1993.
Sanford, Marcelline Hemingway. At the Hemingways. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1962.
Savarin, Real French Cooking. Garden City, New York: Doubleday & Co., 1956.
Sheraton, Mimi. The German Cookbook. New York: Random House, 1965.
Street, Julian. Where Paris Dines. Garden City, New York: Doubleday Doran & Co., 1929.
Toklas, Alice B. The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1954.
Villard, Henry S. and James Nagel. Hemingway in Love and War: The Lost Diary of Agnes von Kurowsky. New York: Hyperion, 1995.
Villas, James. The French Country Kitchen. New York: Bantam Books, 1992.
Waldo, Myra. The Flavor of Spain. New York: Macmillan, 1965.
SELECTED ARTICLES
Beegel, Susan. “Hemingway Gatronomique: A Guide to Food and Drink in A Moveable Feast.” The Hemingway Review. v4, nl, Fall 1984, pp. 14-26.
Belzer, S. A. “Savoring the Soup of Hemingway Country.” The New York Times. December 17, 1997, p. F13.
Benoit, Raymond. “The Complete Walker: Food and Lodging in Hemingway’s ‘Big Two-Hearted River.’” Notes on Contemporary Literature. v20, n3, May 1990, pp. 10-12.
Desnoyers, Megan Floyd. “Ernest Hemingway: A Storytellers Legacy.” Prologue, v24, n4, Winter, 1992, pp. 335-49.
Hemingway, Mary. “Life with Papa.” Flair, January 1951, p. 29,116-7.
Lanier, Doris. “The Bittersweet Taste of Absinthe in Hemingway’s ‘Hills Like White Elephants.’” Studies in Short Fiction, v26, Summer 1989, pp. 279-88.
Lyons, Nick. “Hemingway’s Many Hearted Fox River.” National Geographic, June 1997, pp. 106-23.
Slough, Andrew. “An Immoveable Feast.” SKI, v59, n3, Nov. 1994, pp. 180-7.
Solomon, Barbara, “Where’s Papa?” The New Republic, March 9, 1987, pp. 30-34.
Stoneback, H. R. “Memorable Eggs ‘in Danger of Getting Cold’ and Mackerel’Perilous with Edge-Level Juice’: Eating in Hemingway’s Garden.” The Hemingway Review, v8, n2, Spring 1989, pp. 22-29.
Underhill, Linda and Jeanne Nakjavani. “Food for Fiction: Lessons from Ernest Hemingway’s Writing.” Journal of American Culture, v15, n2, Summer 1992, pp. 87-90.
Vivant, Don. “Literary Drinks.” Forbes (FYI Supplement), v156, n10, October 23,1995, p. 162.
Wells, Reginald. “A Christmas Choice of Fair and Fancy Game.” Sports Illustrated, December 1955, pp. 40-3.
Acknowledgments
More often than not, I have felt like the editor of this book rather than the writer. It has been a collaborative effort in many ways, and there are several people without whose assistance this book would not have been possible.
First, my eternal gratitude goes out to all those who were genuinely enthusiastic about this book from the outset, who found some fun in helping me, and whose support helped me overcome whatever lingering doubts remained along the way: Thomas Bahr, whose trip to Schruns triggered this wild ride and whose friendship, research assistance, and interest has been invaluable; Peter Johnson, who saw through the free booze and seemed to embody the essence of this project (maybe it was just the free booze); Jack Murphy, a Hemingway fan who helped me remember why I wrote this thing in the first place; Tillie Ar
nold, Don Anderson, and Forrest MacMullen, all friends of Ernest from his Idaho days, whose fond memories of Papa brought the subject to life for me; and finally, Jennifer Wheeler, executive director of The Hemingway Foundation of Oak Park, who helped out so much along the way and who seems to truly love her work.
I would also like to thank the community of scholars who have dedicated much of their careers to the study of Hemingway’s life and work. I was warned at the outset of this project that “the Hemingway folks” were a tough lot. I have found them, without exception, to be scholarly, generous, forthcoming, and downright friendly. They are genuinely interested in advancing the body of work on Ernest Hemingway. In particular, I would like to thank the following: Susan Beegel, editor of the Hemingway Review, and Miriam Mandel, both walking Papa encyclopedias; Allen Josephs, president of The Hemingway Society and inspirer of restauranteurs; Marty Peterson; John Bittner; Charlotte Ponder; Ruth Hawkins; Walter Houk for exposing the mojito; Megan Desnoyers and Stephen Plotkin of the Hemingway Collection at the John F. Kennedy Library in Boston; Allan Goodrich at the John F. Kennedy Library; Maria Metzner; the Hemingway Foundation; Susan Buckley; Lydia Zelaya; Sam Rogal for his comprehensive research on Hemingway and food; Robert Trogden and everyone on the Hemingway E-mail-list service whose comments and debate provides an ongoing education for everyone who tunes in; Michael Reynolds and Carlos Baker, without whose brilliant biographies none of this would be possible.
Along the way, I have had the honor of meeting many wonderful and talented people who donated their time and wisdom to this book: Juanita Bellaguer, Juan, José, and everyone at La Pepica in Valencia; Penelope Casas, grand dame of Spanish cuisine in America; Mario Leon Iriarte, owner of Dali in Cambridge; everyone at the Schlesinger Library at Radcliffe College; Sandy Block, Master of Wine; Teresa Merenges, Cuban cuisine expert and super-nice lady; Walter Nels at the Hotel Taube in Schruns; Antonio Gonzalez and the wonderful people who make Casa Botín in Madrid a magical place; Joe Faber at Capt. Tony’s in Key West; Maria Luisa Nieto Moneo in Pamplona who, had she been around in 1925, would have found a starring role in The Sun Also Rises; the folks at the Hostals Burguete and Loizu in Burguete; Paul Christie and Neil Palmer at Gargoyle’s on the Square; and a special thank you to Cynthia Sherry and Lisa Rosenthal-Hogarth at Chicago Review Press.
Finally, a toast to all of my friends and family who helped out along the way: Katie Sharkey; Eric S. A. Reed; Jason Soslow; Mike and Tori Palmer; Bart Laurijssens and his mom; Joan and Sandy; Gary and Sandrijn; Korina; Chris Richards; Jill and Ryan; Sean and Elana; Penny and Arnie; Harry and Phyllis; Janice and Stu; Karen Bender; Marty Jones; Martin and Margaret Bendersky; Abby Gitlitz; Ayshe Yildiz; Missy Maxfield; Steve Halloran; Jeffrey Isaacs; Joe “See ya in Church” Murphy; Eileen Boreth; M. Brad Boreth; everyone at Ben-Eve’s Beauty Salon and Fat Oscar’s Bar & Grill; and of course, my mom and dad, Bessie and Ziegfried Borethkovitz, of the Flying Borethkovitzes.