Phan Thiet, a small town south of Nha Trang on the coast, is also famous for its varietals of fish sauce. Fish sauce is sold in different gradations. The pungent, salty liquid is called nhi in its first extraction. Considered the finest grade in the fish sauce hierarchy, it is recommended for creating dipping sauce. Darker gradations, which resemble a thick brown sauce, are hardly ever used for cooking anymore, since the finest fish sauce is available for just a few dollars a bottle.
Fish sauce should not be applied as generously as soy sauce. There is a more complex combination of amino acids in fish than in other foods. When the proteins of fish are broken down during the fermentation process, the quality of taste is similar to that of soy sauce, beef broths, or any other umami-heavy food. Because of the high levels of amino acids—and therefore umami flavor—less fish sauce is used, but that translates to better flavors and better food.
PREPARATION TECHNIQUES
For the most part, cooking calls for some easy and basic methods, but sometimes special techniques are required. Here are a few tips on specific preparations.
Braising: An important technique that requires you to cook food slowly with a little liquid in a covered vessel, such as a clay pot or saucepan. The first step in braising is searing or browning, a crucial part of the caramelizing process in Vietnamese cuisine. You need to be patient as you prepare these slow dishes.
Caramelizing: The Vietnamese are known for kho dishes: braised, caramelized food. When sugar is cooked over medium to high heat, it will caramelize into a thick brown sauce. I like to cover meat with a generous amount of sugar before browning it, which produces a nice caramel coating. As the meat braises, the liquid and sugars will continue to cook and thicken.
Chopping: My recipe testers enjoyed the goi salads but had no idea the Vietnamese were so obsessed with chopping! I think we like chopping so much because increasing the surface area of the food makes for easier absorption of flavors and marinades. When immersed in any kind of dressing, a julienned carrot is more flavorful than an inch-long piece. Chopped, shredded, and paper-thin-sliced foods add to the presentation. Chopping is also important because all food needs to be cut into bite-size pieces for chopstick use.
Light frying: Vietnamese cuisine does not include many fried dishes, but when it does, they’re never deep-fried, just lightly fried in a thin layer of oil (never lard) in a skillet or frying pan. Occasionally the food is in a light batter. The foods are generally fried for just a short amount of time and are drained immediately on paper towels. Our frying doesn’t make greasy foods, but simply gives certain dishes a nice crunch.
Reconstituting: Many dried ingredients—such as shrimp and mushrooms—are important for soups, stir-fries, and braises. If a recipe calls for the reconstitution of these ingredients, save the liquid that accumulates and add it to the sauce, stir-fry, or soup you are cooking. When reconstituting any dried ingredients, use tepid water that just barely covers them, and leave them for a few hours or overnight to draw out the most flavor.
Sautéing: Requires that you cook food quickly in the right amount of oil, butter, or, in the case of Vietnamese food, a marinade, over medium to high heat. It is best to use a skillet or frying pan of a size that comfortably contains the food. The pan should be preheated. When the food is cooked quickly, it stays moist. The cooking time will vary depending on the food.
Steaming: A way to cook food without adding extra oil. It allows the food to be cooked and appreciated in its most pure form. When we steam fish, we usually do so with some sauce (fish or soy or Maggi) as well as some herbs. A dish or bowl needs to hold these contents comfortably. The fish should sit on an oiled surface or a bed of herbs to prevent it from sticking to the steamer.
THE BASICS
In every cuisine, there are always several recipes that cooks need to know: a good tomato sauce, a flour tortilla, a perfect flaky piecrust. Vietnamese cuisine also has its own list of basics—steamed rice, special dipping sauces, and garnishes that are served at practically every meal. These basic recipes are part of almost every recipe in the next chapters.
DIPPING SAUCE
Nc Chm
Get used to this dipping sauce. It is served with everything! In almost every Vietnamese home, there is a container of nuoc cham sitting in the refrigerator and a bowl of it on the table. It is amazing how an everyday meal can be transformed into an adventure simply by adding dipping sauce to each bite. Try out this recipe and modify it to your own tastes. You can make variations, for instance, by adding julienned carrots, ginger, or scallions. This recipe usually makes enough sauce for four servings of simple dishes, such as the comfort food dishes in the Asian Garden Mall chapter.
½ fresh Thai bird chile, finely
chopped into rings, seeds
included
8 tablespoons warm water
1½ tablespoons sugar
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1½ tablespoons fresh lime juice
Whisk together all the ingredients in a small bowl. Make sure the sugar is completely dissolved. Leave the bowl at room temperature for at least several hours before serving. The longer you let the ingredients marinate, the more flavor the sauce will have. If you will not be using the sauce within a day, refrigerate it, because the sugar and lime juice will cause it to spoil. Bring it back to room temperature before serving.
[MAKES 1 CUP]
DIPPING SAUCE WITH GINGER
Nuóc Chám Gùng
This is your simple nuoc cham recipe with an extra kick from fresh ginger. It’s perfect to brighten up poultry and fish dishes. This recipe usually makes enough sauce for four servings of simple dishes.
4 cloves garlic, minced
1½ tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon chili paste
¼ cup minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
¼ cup fish sauce
cup water
In a small bowl, whisk together all the ingredients until the sugar is dissolved. Leave the bowl at room temperature for a few hours to let the sauce marinate. As with dipping sauce, it is best to refrigerate if you are not planning to serve it within 24 hours.
[MAKES 1¼ CUPS]
PEANUT SAUCE
Túóng Đu Phng
The Vietnamese version of peanut sauce is a little bit sweeter and soupier in texture than other Asian versions such as Thai and Chinese. Because of its sweetness and richness, this peanut sauce is a better complement for spring rolls and other bland foods than nuoc cham. For a bit more kick, add more chili paste.
1 tablespoon peanut oil or
sesame oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup finely ground unsalted
dry-roasted peanuts
½ teaspoon chili paste
¾ cup chicken broth
1½ tablespoons thick peanut
butter
cup hoisin sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon fish sauce
½ teaspoon cornstarch
2 tablespoons crushed unsalted
dry-roasted peanuts, for garnish
1. Heat the oil in a small saucepan. Add the minced garlic and cook until it is golden brown. Drain and discard the oil. Set garlic aside.
2. In a small bowl. whisk the cooked garlic with the ground peanuts, chili paste, chicken broth, peanut butter, hoisin sauce, sugar, and fish sauce.
3. When the mixture has a smooth consistency, pour it into the saucepan and bring it to a boil over high heat. Let it boil for 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to a simmer.
4. Add the cornstarch and mix well to a very smooth consistency. Let cool to room temperature. Stir, then garnish with additional crushed peanuts before serving.
[MAKES 2 CUPS]
GINGER LIME SOY SAUCE
Tuóng Chanh Gùng
Ginger lime soy sauce is not used often because of its intensity, and soy dipping sauces in general are more Chinese-influenced. Be
cause it’s the least subtle of all the dipping sauces, it accompanies poached or boiled meat dishes that are in need of flavor.
cup fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons soy sauce
¾ cup water
1 tablespoon roughly chopped
fresh ginger
½ teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
In a small bowl, whisk together all the ingredients until the sugar is dissolved. Leave the bowl at room temperature for a half hour before serving. As with dipping sauce, it is best to refrigerate if you are not planning to serve within the day.
[MAKES 1 CUP]
SCALLION OIL
Dâu Hành
Scallion oil is great to use as a topping for grilled meat and seafood dishes or any kind of rice vermicelli. It can be stored in a covered jar at room temperature for up to a week.
3 scallions, chopped into rings
½ cup sesame or olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
In a saucepan or deep skillet, heat the scallions, oil, and salt over medium heat. Cook for 2 minutes. Set aside and allow the oil to cool to room temperature before drizzling it over food.
[MAKES ½ CUP]
FRIED SHALLOTS AND GARLIC
Hành Chiên and Toi Chiên
Many Vietnamese dishes ask for a garnish of fried, thinly sliced shallots or garlic. These are needed not only for presentation but also for their aroma and crunchy texture. As you learn to appreciate this garnish, feel free to use it with any recipes of your choosing.
cup olive oil
2 small shallots or 3 cloves garlic,
thinly sliced lengthwise
In a medium skillet, heat the oil until hot. Add the shallots or garlic cloves (or both) and fry until fragrant and golden brown, or about 5 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels before using them as a garnish.
[MAKES ¼ CUP]
Respect for elders is extremely important in the Vietnamese culture. Not only are elders served first when it comes to food, but you should also expect to give up your seat on a bus or your place in line to an elderly person.
PICKLED CARROTS AND DAIKON
Cai Chua
Pickled carrots and daikon are great to serve, cool or at room temperature, with the salad platter. Diners will gravitate to them if they need a tangy and sweet crunch to complement their meal. Generally served as just an accompaniment, these pickled treats are also added to banh mi thit (sandwiches).
1 cup rice vinegar
½ cup water
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
2 medium carrots, peeled
½ pound daikon, peeled
4 whole cloves garlic, peeled
1 Thai bird chile, chopped into
rings
1. In a saucepan, bring the vinegar, water, salt, and sugar to a boil. Let boil for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
2. While the vinegar and water mixture is boiling, slice the carrots and daikon into either -inch slices, or into matchstick pieces—whichever shape you prefer.
3. Put the carrots and daikon in a large jar with the garlic and chile. Add the cooled vinegar mixture. Seal tight and refrigerate for at least 24 hours before eating. The vegetables can be kept up to 3 weeks in the refrigerator.
[MAKES 3 CUPS]
PICKLED SHALLOTS
Cu Kiêu Chua
Packed in vinegar, sugar, and salt, pickled shallots are used as a condiment for grilled foods and to add a sweet-and-sour taste to main dishes. They are often purchased in jars at the grocery store, but it is fun to make your own if you have extra shallots lying around. They should be served cool or at room temperature.
1½ cups rice vinegar
¾ cup water
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup whole shallot cloves
2 fresh Thai bird chiles, chopped
into rings
1. In a saucepan, bring to a boil the rice vinegar, water, salt, and sugar. Let boil for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
2. Put the shallot cloves, chiles, and cooled vinegar mixture into a large jar. Seal tight. Let them sit for 48 hours before serving. They will keep up to 4 weeks with refrigeration.
[MAKES 1 CUP]
The 2000 U.S. census found that over the past ten years, the Vietnamese population in the United States grew at a rate of 82.7 percent to 1.2 million, with half residing in California alone. The Vietnamese are the second fastest-growing minority group in the United States; Asian Indians are first.
SALAD PLATTER
Da Xà Lách
One of the most important components of the Vietnamese dining experience is the salad platter. Xa lach, loosely translated, means “salad.” The quintessential salad platter (below) is composed of various fresh, leafy herbs, both common ones like mint and cilantro and more Vietnamese herbs such as coriander and perilla. It is the individual herbs that are of particular importance. They each represent a specific flavor—lemony zing, peppery, pungent, sweet—that can be plucked from the platter to match Vietnamese dishes. The basic salad platter also includes red or green leaf lettuce (or any other fresh lettuce), sliced cucumbers, lime wedges to be squeezed over the appropriate
dishes, and Thai chiles (left whole on the platter to be broken and shared by the entire group). Sometimes pickled shallots or carrots are included. The salad platter, along with hot steamed rice and dipping sauce, is served at practically every meal. Even with your run-of-the-mill Vietnamese dinner, you need your plate of herbs with your rice. You are forever dipping and wrapping these herbs around foods or adding them straight to your rice or noodle bowl. Make sure everyone’s hands are clean! It is really what sets Vietnamese food apart and what makes it so special—that we would demand to have a bite of fresh coriander or Thai basil with each spoonful of plain steamed rice. Each recipe may call for a different composition for the salad platter, and will be so noted.
½ cup fresh mint leaves
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves
cup fresh Thai basil leaves
cup fresh perilla leaves
cup fresh Vietnamese coriander
leaves
1 head red or green leaf lettuce
1 cucumber, peeled and cut into
¼-inch slices
6 pickled shallots
2 whole red or green fresh Thai
bird chiles
1 lime, quartered
1 cup fresh mung bean sprouts
1. Wash all greens and dry.
2. Herbs like mint, cilantro, and basil do not need to be chopped, just separated. Separate the lettuce leaves. Red lettuce needs to be separated but not torn apart.
3. On a large platter arrange all the different components in separate piles. Do not mix anything together. The salad platter is served at the table with the rest of the dishes, family-style. The platter is passed around and diners will take what they need, even breaking off a piece of chile. The lime wedge is especially good with the noodle soups. to be squeezed into the broth for extra taste.
[SERVES 4]
STEAMED JASMINE RICE
Cóm
Steamed rice is a staple of Vietnamese cuisine. It’s best made with a rice cooker, an appliance every Vietnamese person owns, but you can also make it in a nonstick saucepan. It’s quite easy. To make light, fluffy, and perfectly cooked rice, use a 1-to-1 ratio for the rice and water. If you are making rice on a stovetop, you will need a bit more water as it will evaporate more quickly than in a rice cooker.
1 ½ cups uncooked jasmine rice
1½ cups water (add ¼ cup for
stovetop cooking)
1. Rinse the jasmine rice under running water to remove starches, using a fine-mesh strainer or colander. With your hands squeeze rice by the fistfuls to break up the residual starch. Rice needs to be rinsed at least twice until the water runs clear.
2. If you are using a rice cooker, place
the rinsed rice in it and add 1½ cups water. Start the rice cooker: serve when all the water is absorbed by the rice.
3. If you are cooking on the stovetop, put the rice and 1¾ cups water in a medium-size nonstick saucepan. Bring the pan to a boil and let boil for 5 minutes, uncovered. Stir, then bring the heat down to a simmer. Cover the pot and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the water has been completely absorbed. Stir only once more to break up the rice while cooking.
[SERVES 4]
Meat and poultry dishes are more common in Vietnamese cuisine today than they were in the past, although they are served less frequently than seafood. Because Vietnam is a third-world country and largely agrarian, beef, pork, and chicken were not plentiful and came at a high price. So the Vietnamese would salt meat and poultry heavily so that diners would take just small bites along with large quantities of rice to cut the sodium. That way, one meat dish would be able to serve a large number of people.
The Little Saigon Cookbook: Vietnamese Cuisine and Culture in Southern California's Little Saigon Page 3