3. Remove and discard the bones and skin from the poached chicken. Shred the chicken with your hands. Remove the lemongrass and, if desired, the pieces of ginger.
4. Serve the porridge, very hot, in individual bowls. Place a few pieces of the shredded chicken over the porridge, followed by some chopped scallions, chopped cilantro, chopped Vietnamese coriander, bean sprouts, and some thinly sliced onion rings. Squeeze some lime juice over each portion. Or you can put these garnish items on a separate plate. and allow your guests to garnish their own bowls of porridge.
[SERVES 4]
GROUND BEEF PORRIDGE
Cháo Bò
The beef version of chao is made flavorful and fragrant with cilantro, ginger, and lemongrass with a dash of pepper.
6 cups unsalted chicken broth
(purchased or homemade)
5 tablespoons fish sauce
2 thick slices fresh ginger
2 stalks fresh lemongrass, cut into
4-inch lengths
½ tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
4 cups uncooked jasmine rice
½ pound lean ground beef
2 scallions, chopped into rings
cup chopped fresh cilantro
leaves
1 cup fresh mung bean sprouts
½ yellow onion, finely sliced into
rings with mandoline
2 red Thai bird chiles, finely
chopped
1. Warm the chicken broth in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the fish sauce, ginger, lemongrass. sugar, salt, and pepper. Stir until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Add the uncooked rice and cover. Cook over low heat for about 35 minutes or until the rice is completely done. The consistency should be similar to that of porridge and a little watery.
2. Remove the lemongrass and ginger and continue simmering. Add the ground beef to the pot and stir well to mix the bits of meat through the porridge. Cook over low heat for another 1 to 1½ hours, or until the rice is almost translucent. The porridge should be very watery.
3. Serve very hot in individual bowls, topped with some chopped scallions, chopped cilantro, bean sprouts, and thinly sliced onion rings. Or you can arrange these garnish items on a separate plate, with the chopped Thai bird chiles, and allow your guests to garnish their own rice porridge.
[SERVES 8]
There are some popular delis in Little Saigon where you can order simple chao to go. The most common form of chao found in sit-down restaurants is chao huyet—rice porridge with liver, congealed pork blood, and long intestine (pork “sausage”), accompanied by a deep-fried breadstick.
SPICED BEEF STEW
Thit Bò Kho
One of my favorite “slow” dishes, this beef stew is more like a perfectly spiced soup than an actual thick stew. Nonetheless, it is still a hearty meal with remarkable flavor and perfect for eating with a fresh, warm baguette to sop up the liquid (steamed white rice is also good). A friend of mine describes it as eating an “exoticized beef stew.” The preparation is quite simple, and then you can just leave the stew at the back of your stove in a low simmer for a few hours. Surprisingly, this dish is quite popular for breakfast.
5 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
1½ teaspoons annatto seeds
1 pound top round beef chuck, cut into
1½-inch cubes
1 fresh Thai bird chile, finely chopped
1½ tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon yellow curry powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup fish sauce
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 large onion, cut into 6 pieces and
separated
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 stalks fresh lemongrass, cut into
2-inch lengths
3 star anise pods
1 cinnamon stick
2 large carrots, peeled, cut lengthwise,
and chopped into 1½-inch pieces
1 medium daikon, peeled and cut into
1½-inch pieces
6 cups unsalted chicken or beef broth
Fresh cilantro or parsley
1. In a skillet or small saucepan, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive or vegetable oil with the annatto seeds. Stir constantly until the seeds have completely bled their reddish color into the oil. Let cool, then discard the seeds, and set the annatto oil aside.
2. In a large bowl, combine the cubed beef, chopped chile, sugar, curry powder, salt, fish sauce, pepper, and remaining olive or vegetable oil. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
3. Heat the annatto oil in a large stockpot. When it is hot, add the onion, garlic, lemongrass, and anise pods and saute for 5 minutes.
4. Remove the beef from the bowl, and add it and its marinade to the stockpot. Pour in the chicken or beef broth. Add the cinnamon stick, carrots, and daikon and boil for 5 minutes, then reduce to a very low heat and cook for about 1½ to 2 hours. The meat is done when it’s extremely tender or falling apart at the touch. Before serving, remove the lemongrass. anise pods, and cinnamon stick.
5. Serve the stew in individual bowls with warm baguettes, or ladle it over steamed rice. Garnish with fresh cilantro or parsley.
[SERVES 4]
GRILLED BEEF WITH LEMONGRASS AND GARLIC
Bún Bò Nuóng Xã Tói
The zing of the lemongrass and the heat of the garlic make this grilled beef recipe a very flavorful, fragrant dish. Easy to make in under an hour, the beef is delicious with an herb noodle salad, steamed rice, or rice vermicelli; over a bed of Bibb lettuce and tomatoes; or alone with nuoc cham. You can also skewer the beef cubes as kebabs or even pan-fry them in a skillet to be served as appetizers.
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 stalks fresh lemongrass, very
finely chopped
¼ cup fish sauce
3 tablespoons olive oil
¼ teaspoon salt
1 pound beef sirloin tip or beef
round, sliced thinly
1 yellow onion, quartered
Fresh cilantro or scallions
¼ cup crushed unsalted dryroasted
peanuts
1. First prepare the marinade. In a shallow bowl, stir together the sugar, black pepper, garlic, lemongrass, fish sauce, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and salt. Stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved.
2. Place the beef slices in a shallow dish or bowl or a ziplock bag. Pour on the marinade and toss the beef so that it is completely covered. Cover the dish or seal the bag and refrigerate for a half hour.
3. Coat the surface of a grill pan or skillet with the remaining oil. Or prepare a gas or charcoal grill. Start by sautéing or grilling the yellow onion quarters. When they are golden brown, add the beef to the onions. For a skillet or grill pan, pour any remaining marinade over the beef; if using a grill, continue basting the meat with the remaining marinade. The meat will cook within 5 minutes for a medium-rare doneness. Cook according to your preference.
4. To serve place the hot sliced beef and onions over your accompaniment of choice (herb noodle salad, rice, or plain rice vermicelli) in four separate bowls. Top with the juices from the skillet or grill pan. Serve with generous amounts of nuoc cham, and garnish with cilantro or scallions and crushed peanuts.
[SERVES 4 WITH BUN AS AN ENTREE. 6 AS AN APPETIZER]
GRILLED BEEF SLICES WITH CHILE, LEMONGRASS, AND HONEY
Bun Bò Thit
The idea of honey and beef might concern you at first, but your worries will wash away before you even take your first bite. The aroma of the seared meat with the fragrant cooked honey is only the beginning. Both the honey and the hoisin sauce give the beef a deliciously dark, caramelized flavor, while the lemongrass, chile, and dipping sauce balance the sweetness. The thick sauce adheres well to slippery ingredients such as bun, which this dish should be served over. Grill
ed beef can also be presented as an appetizer over greens, for a nontraditional Vietnamese meal.
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
1 fresh Thai bird chile, finely
chopped
2 tablespoons honey or sugar
1 teaspoon black pepper
3 stalks fresh lemongrass, very
finely chopped
1½ tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
¾ pound top sirloin or beef tenderloin,
sliced in ½-inch slices
across the grain
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the fish sauce, hoisin sauce, chopped chile, honey or sugar, pepper, and lemongrass until the honey or sugar is dissolved.
2. Heat the olive oil in a skillet or grill over medium heat. Begin by sautéing the chopped garlic for a few minutes.
3. When the garlic is golden brown, add the sliced beef to the skillet and pour the marinade over it, stirring quickly. The meat will cook in its juices and the marinade for about 8 minutes for a medium-well doneness. Adjust the cooking time based on your own preference.
4. Serve the grilled meat hot with an herb noodle salad (bun) or steamed rice, the salad platter, and plenty of nuoc cham.
[SERVES 4 AS AN ENTREE, 6 AS AN APPETIZER]
New restaurants in Little Saigon employ the gimmick of offering free beverages or a $1.00 bowl of pho. My parents’ generation has become obsessed with this and will ask at any restaurant in Little Saigon, “What are you giving us for free today?”
GRILLED PORK CHOPS WITH HERB NOODLE SALAD
Bún Thit Heo Nuóng
This dish is typical of the way the Vietnamese marinate and cook their meats. Served with the fresh herbs, and presented with the contrasting textures of the juicy meat and the soft, thin rice noodles. this is an entree that easily becomes a favorite of first-time diners of Vietnamese cuisine. Steamed rice can be substituted for the herb noodle salad if you prefer. Pork chops with the bone are your ideal choice as the bone makes for a juicier dish and keeps the meat from shrinking.
¼ cup fish sauce
¼ teaspoon chili paste
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon salt
4 pork chops (or 2 pounds
boneless pork)
3 tablespoons oil
2 shallots, diced
1 medium yellow onion, sliced into
rings
4 cloves garlic, minced
Herb Noodle Salad (see recipe
in Basics)
1. In a small bowl, combine the fish sauce, chili paste, sugar, black pepper, and salt. Whisk until the sugar and salt are dissolved.
2. Place the pork chops or boneless pork in a shallow dish or bowl or ziplock bag. Pour the marinade all over them, cover the bowl or seal the bag, and leave it in the refrigerator overnight.
3. In a skillet over high heat, warm the oil. Cook the shallots and onion for a few minutes in the hot oil until light brown and fragrant. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes.
4. Add the pork to the skillet and pour any remaining marinade on top. Lower the heat to medium and cook for about 10 minutes on each side or until the surface of the meat has browned and the pork is cooked through.
5. Remove the pork from the heat and let it sit for 15 minutes. Slice the pork chops into bite-size pieces to make it easier for your diners to pick them up and eat them with chopsticks. Arrange the pork pieces over the herb noodle salad and serve with generous amounts of nuoc cham.
[SERVES 4]
RICE FLOUR CREPES WITH MUSHROOMS AND GROUND PORK
Bánh Úót Thit
To make this dish, it takes some time to get the hang of creating the thin crepes. But clearly the effort pays off once you’ve mastered the process. They’re like eating light pillows. Probably one of our most nondescript foods, the rice crepe instantly takes on character when filled with this savory ground pork and mushroom mixture, dipped into nuoc cham, and served as a singular main entree or a stunning appetizer.
FILLING
cup dried tree ear mushrooms
1 cup warm water
½ pound ground pork
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon sugar
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 tablespoon oil
CREPES (BANH UOT):
2¼ cups lukewarm water
1½ cups rice flour
¼ cup cornstarch
cup tapioca flour
½ tablespoon sugar
½ tablespoon salt
cup olive oil
1. First make the filling. In a small bowl, reconstitute the mushrooms by placing them in the cup of warm water for 1 hour. In the meantime, in a medium bowl, combine the ground pork, fish sauce, black pepper, sugar, garlic, and shallot. Mix well.
2. When the dried mushrooms are reconstituted, add 1 tablespoon of the liquid from the bowl to the ground pork mixture; mix well. Drain and discard the remaining water from the mushrooms. Finely chop the mushrooms and add them to the ground pork mixture and blend again.
3. Heat the tablespoon of oil in a skillet over medium heat. Saute the ground pork mixture for about 10 minutes or until it is completely brown. Set it aside in a bowl or a plate.
4. Next, make the rice crepes. Pour the lukewarm water into a bowl. With a wooden spoon or chopsticks, add the rice flour a bit at a time while stirring, making sure to break up any flour lumps. Add the cornstarch, a little at a time. Continue the same process with the tapioca flour. Add the sugar and salt and stir until they are dissolved. Set aside for a half hour.
5. Heat a medium-size, nonstick skillet on a low burner. Lightly brush the skillet with the olive oil. You do not want to fry these crepes, so use the oil sparingly.
6. Pour in about ¼ cup of the batter, and swirl the skillet around so that the batter evenly spreads. The rice crepe needs to be very thin, like a French crepe and not a pancake. The thinner and the more delicate, the better. Cover the skillet tightly, and let it sit on the burner, still on low heat, for about 3 minutes. Do not let the crepe burn. When done. the crepe will be white and the surface should be dry to the touch.
7. Remove the lid and gently remove the crepe by scraping and loosening the sides first. Place the crepe onto an oiled plate or nonstick baking sheet to cool. Continue making crepes until the batter is gone, making sure to re-oil the skillet between crepes. Do not pile the crepes on top of one another—they are slick and delicate and will stick together.
8. To fill the crepes: Take one crepe at a time and place it on a nonstick surface, such as an oiled plate or oiled baking sheet. Place 2 tablespoons of the pork filling in a thin horizontal line all the way across the bottom third of the crepe. Fold in the sides of the crepe about an inch. Start from the bottom and fold up. The rolled crepe should be about 1 to 1½ inches thick. Set aside and repeat these steps until all the crepes are filled.
9. Crepes can be served hot or at room temperature, individually or family style. Serve with a salad platter and fresh bean sprouts. Garnish with fried scallions, garlic, or unsalted dry-roasted peanuts if you wish. Serve with plenty of nuoc cham.
[SERVES 6 AS AN ENTREE : 8 TO 10 AS AN APPETIZER]
GRILLED PORK CHOPS WITH LEMONGRASS AND GARLIC
Suón Heo Úóp Xã Tói
The aromatic flavors of lemongrass and garlic permeate the pork chops, producing a fragrant dish that is a wonderful complement to a vegetable saute or a noodle side dish, as well as being delicious with plain steamed rice and the salad platter. If you do not have enough time for the pork chops to marinate at least an hour, you can add another tablespoon of fish sauce.
1 stalk fresh lemongrass, very
finely chopped
½ tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon chili paste
1 medium onion, sliced into ri
ngs
6 cloves garlic, minced
½ tablespoon fresh lime juice
¼ cup fish sauce
3 pounds pork chops (or substitute
another cut of pork)
¼ cup vegetable or olive oil
Black pepper to taste
1. In a medium-size mixing bowl, combine the lemongrass, sugar, chili paste, onions, garlic, and lime juice. Mix thoroughly, then add the fish sauce and mix until the sugar has dissolved.
2. In a shallow dish or bowl, arrange the pork chops so that as much of the surface area is as exposed as possible. Pour the marinade all over the chops. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour, but ideally overnight.
3. In a grilling pan. heat the oil over medium heat. Grill the pork chops roughly 10 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Add black pepper to taste. Cut the meat into bite-size pieces so it is easy to pick up with chopsticks. Serve over white rice with a side of nuoc cham and a salad platter.
The Little Saigon Cookbook: Vietnamese Cuisine and Culture in Southern California's Little Saigon Page 6