6. Serve hot, garnished with the chopped scallion.
BRAISED EGGPLANT AND TOFU IN CARAMEL SAUCE
Cà Tím Du H Kho
Eggplant is one of those vegetables that practically “melt” after a long cooking process, which is why it is so often found in slow-cooked Vietnamese dishes like a curry or a stew. For this dish, the cooking time must be close to an hour in order to achieve the velvety texture of an overcooked eggplant. This is not the most attractive-looking dish, however, so be sure to chop plenty of Thai basil to garnish it.
2 large Asian eggplants (or
2 globe eggplants)
3 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon sugar
6 ounces (1 package) firm tofu
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, peeled,
quartered, and separated
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 anise seed pods
¼ cup fish sauce
½ fresh Thai bird chile, finely
chopped
¾ cup Coco Rico coconut soda
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
Fresh Thai basil leaves, roughly
chopped
1. Wash, pat dry, and peel the eggplants. Cut them into 1½-inch cubes. Place the cubes in a colander or on a baking sheet and generously sprinkle them with the 3 tablespoons of salt to sweat out the bitter juices. Let stand for about 20 minutes. If you are using globe eggplants, increase the salting time to 35 minutes.
2. Rinse the salt off the eggplant cubes and pat them dry. Place the cubes in a medium bowl and sprinkle all over with the sugar. Set aside.
3. Cut the tofu into cubes about 2 inches thick.
4. In a clay pot or saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. When hot, add the sugared eggplant and stir occasionally as the sugar cooks and begins to brown. Add the onion, garlic, anise pods, and a pinch of salt to the eggplant. Saute for another 5 minutes, or until browned.
5. Add the tofu, fish sauce, chile, coconut soda, and black pepper to the pot. Blend all together and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and let cook for 1 hour. or until the liquid has reduced to a thick sauce.
6. Garnish with the Thai basil and serve with steamed rice.
CABBAGE SALAD WITH BANANA BLOSSOMS
Gi Chay Rau Rm Bp Chui
This vegetarian salad is distinctive because of the banana blossoms, the flower of the banana plant. Banana blossoms, which have a high content of tannic acid, are popular in soups and salads because of their sour and tangy taste. Here they complement the crunch of the cabbage and the fish sauce. You can also add more ingredients such as tofu or shredded chicken.
1 cup banana blossoms
2 cups water
Juice of 1 lime
1 head green cabbage
½ yellow onion
¼ cup fish sauce
½ teaspoon chili paste
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
½ tablespoon sugar
¼ cup chopped fresh Thai basil
leaves
¼ cup chopped fresh Vietnamese
coriander leaves
¼ cup chopped fresh mint leaves
½ cup fresh mung bean sprouts
1 tablespoon oil
2 tablespoons sliced shallots
cup crushed unsalted dryroasted
peanuts
1. Remove and discard the outer layers of the banana blossoms. Soak the core of the blossoms in a bowl with 2 cups of water and the juice of 1 lime for 20 minutes.
2. While the banana blossoms are soaking, rinse the head of cabbage, then remove the outer layers. Cut the head in half and remove the core. Shred the cabbage with the mandoline, or chop it into small shreds. Put the cabbage in a large bowl.
3. Slice the half onion with a mandoline or cut it into paper-thin slices. Add the onion slices to the shredded cabbage.
4. In a small bowl, combine the fish sauce, chili paste, 2 tablespoons lime juice, and sugar. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.
5. Drain the banana blossoms and pat dry. Julienne the blossoms into thin shreds, and add them to the cabbage and onion mix.
6. Add the chopped basil, coriander, mint leaves, and bean sprouts to the salad bowl. Pour the fish sauce dressing all over the salad and toss.
7. In a small skillet or saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of oil until hot. Add the sliced shallots and fry until golden brown. Drain.
8. Garnish the salad with the crushed peanuts and fried shallots. Let the salad sit for 10 minutes to allow the cabbage to wilt slightly, and then serve.
VEGETARIAN SWEET-AND-SOUR SOUP
Canh Chua Chay
This vegetarian alternative to Canh Chua Ca (see the recipe in the Comfort Foods chapter) is great for those who do not like cooking with a fish carcass. It is one of the more playful dishes that the Vietnamese cuisine has to offer. The pineapple juice, combined with the tomatoes and herbs, makes for an extremely fragrant and complex dish. The little bit of heat in the soup hits you perfectly in the back of the throat. Taro stems may be hard to find, but keep looking; you can substitute celery, but only after you have exhausted all resources.
6 cups unsweetened pineapple juice
4 cups water
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
½ tablespoon sugar
1 cup ¼-inch sliced taro stems
6 tablespoons fish sauce
½ cup fresh or canned bamboo
shoots
2 shallots, finely chopped
3 whole cloves garlic
3 tomatoes, each cut into 6 pieces
1 stalk lemongrass, cut into 3-inch
lengths
1½ fresh Thai bird chiles, finely
chopped
1 cup diced fresh or canned pineapple
2 scallions, chopped into rings
1 cup fresh mung bean sprouts
3 cups cooked rice vermicelli
(optional)
1 cup diced tofu (optional)
Fresh cilantro
1. In a large stockpot, combine the pineapple juice and water and bring to a rolling boil. Add the black pepper, sugar, taro stems, fish sauce, bamboo shoots, shallots, garlic, tomatoes, lemongrass, and chopped chiles to the boiling broth. Lower the heat and let the soup simmer for 20 minutes. Add the diced pineapple and scallions and continue cooking for another 5 minutes.
2. When ready to serve, stir in the bean sprouts and, if desired, the tofu or cooked noodles. Garnish with the fresh cilantro.
[SERVES 6]
When families have lost a loved one, they will give a picture of the deceased to a temple, where it is displayed on a wall among hundreds of other photographs; this can be quite an overwhelming sight for the visitor. The monks, wearing their gold or saffron robes, will sit with other temple members to pray for these souls, so that they reach Nirvana.
Seafood Dishes
THE FISH MARKETS
You need to take only a quick look at a map of Vietnam to see why seafood stands out in our cuisine. With the country’s long coastline and extensive Mekong River system, it’s obvious why seafood is predominantly showcased at the Vietnamese table—both in Vietnam itself as well as in Little Saigon. Not only is seafood served with every lunch or dinner meal, but it is even served at breakfast (such as our rice porridge with braised catfish or shrimp).
Little Saigon’s individual fish markets as well as the large seafood sections of the Vietnamese markets offer an ocean bounty that far surpasses any American market. They are the sole source of fresh (and inexpensive) seafood for the community. The Vietnamese fishmongers in Little Saigon are true professionals in their field. Provided there is no language barrier, the fishmonger can offer information about the flavor, freshness, and quality of every type of fish and will steer the customer in the right direction to create the perfect seafood dish. The community is so small and close-knit, any fishmonger or market selling poor quality seafood would quickly go out of business.
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sp; The layout from one store to the next is consistent. Refrigerated glass cases within every market are stocked with fish fillets and steaks. Below these cases are trays holding an oceanful of whole fish on ice for consumers to pick up and prod-snapper, sea bass, mackerel, and geoduck, just to name a few. The fish come without markers, but the locals are always able to identify what they need. White plastic buckets hold various mollusks like clams or mussels, still alive and gurgling in salt water. Above it all are several gigantic tanks with schools of fish like tilapia, catfish, and Dover sole, which can be purchased straight from the tank. Another tank is for Dungeness crab, and a third for lobster; customers reach in to take a crab or lobster right out of the tank to check the size and health of the creature.
Because the freshness of the seafood is of the highest importance in Vietnamese cuisine, the majority of our fish dishes are prepared simply—steamed, boiled, or pan-fried with little fanfare other than a little bit of fresh lemongrass or ginger to liven them up. The notion of melted butter or elaborate, thick sauces for seafood is inconceivable. Shellfish, cooked by simple boiling or steaming, are enjoyed with just some herbs, and a lime, salt, and pepper mixture for dipping. Instead of fish steaks and fillets, a whole fish is often steamed or grilled and served with its head, tail, skin, and bones intact. The Vietnamese believe that when a fish is cooked whole, it has more juiciness and flavor. Similarly, shrimp are cooked with their tails and shells on to retain their taste and essence.
The recipes in this chapter include simple ones as well as a few more involved ones such as stir-fries or curries. Some you will fall in love with and want to try again and again with every different type of fish. Just remember, to cook as the Vietnamese do, you want to start with the freshest possible seafood.
The Vietnamese believe it is best to cook a whole fish with the bones and skin intact. It may seem bothersome to pick out fish bones from your mouth as you’re eating, but it’s worth it for the flavor. If you feel you must debone the cooked fish before serving, lift the flesh gently to remove the bones, then skewer the fish back together for presentation’s sake. It just takes practice.
WHOLE SALTED FISH WITH LEMONGRASS AND CHILI PASTE
Cá Chiên Xã Ói
Even though the Vietnamese enjoy grilling their seafood, we really love frying as well. A perfectly fried whole fish has phenomenal flavor and an addictive crunch. The crispy, fried fish skin is half the fun, but it also absorbs most of the salty fish sauce. The lime cuts through the saltiness, as does the steamed rice. If you would like to try this recipe with skinless fish fillets, cut the amount of fish sauce in half. This dish is popular at home as well as on the lazy Susan for a large group of people at a celebratory meal.
¾ pound whole mackerel or
tilapia, with skin
6 cloves garlic
3 stalks fresh lemongrass, finely
chopped
¼ onion, finely chopped
½ tablespoon sugar
¼ cup fish sauce
1 teaspoon chili paste
cup olive oil for frying
1 scallion, chopped into rings
1 lime, halved
1. Clean the fish thoroughly and remove the entrails if your fishmonger has not already done so. On each side of the fish, cut three diagonal, evenly spaced slashes, cutting almost to the bone. Pat dry.
2. In a mortar with a pestle, pound together the garlic, lemongrass, onion, and sugar. Put the ingredients in a small bowl. Add the fish sauce and chili paste and whisk together with a fork.
3. Spread the paste over the fish, making sure to rub between the slashes as well. Set the fish aside and let it marinate for an hour.
4. In a skillet large enough to fit the whole fish, heat the oil over high heat for about 5 minutes. Carefully place the fish in the skillet and fry for about 5 to 8 minutes or until the skin is golden brown and crispy. The length of time will depend on the thickness of your fish. Check for doneness by slightly lifting the fish and looking on its underside, and check between the slashes to see that the fish is cooked through. The fish will be white and flaky.
5. Flip the fish over and fry for another 5 minutes, until golden brown, over high heat. Garnish the fish with the scallions, and squeeze half the lime over the entire fish. Reserve half the lime for guests who would like more. Serve fish with a lot of steamed rice.
GRILLED SALTED FISH WITH LIME
Cá Mui Núng
The Vietnamese love their salted dishes, and salty seafood is no exception. In many recipes, seasonings like salt are often taken for granted. We do not have that situation here. We use an appetizing salt rub that permeates the skin of the fish and makes it nice and crispy. Mackerel has a high oil content, which makes it a perfect candidate for grilling. If you prefer another fish, ask your fishmonger for the freshest oily white fish available. For this recipe, and for grilled fish in general, you really need to use a whole fish, preferably not deboned, as fillets tend to flake and fall apart while grilling. If you feel you must debone your whole fish before cooking it, stuff it with scallions and tie it up with cooking twine so that it maintains its shape. The skin needs to stay on, as this is what keeps the flesh intact while grilling.
1 pound whole mackerel or another
oily white fish, with skin
¼ cup coarse salt
1 teaspoon chili paste
8 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup finely chopped onion
¼ tablespoon sugar
3 tablespoons oil for brushing
Juice of ½ medium lime
1 scallion, chopped into rings
1. Clean the fish thoroughly and remove the entrails if your fishmonger has not already done so. On each side of the fish, cut three evenly spaced, diagonal slashes, cutting almost to the bone. These slashes are important because they will help the seasonings penetrate the flesh. Pat dry.
2. In a small bowl, combine the coarse salt, chili paste, minced garlic, chopped onion, and sugar. Blend well so that it forms a paste.
3. Spread the paste all over the fish, making sure to rub between the slashes as well. Cover the fish, refrigerate, and let it marinate for at least 8 hours. For best results, the fish should marinate overnight.
4. Before grilling, lightly rinse the salt off the fish, but the salt inside the slashes of the fish can remain. The salt paste does not need to be completely rinsed off.
5. Over medium heat, heat a grill large enough to fit the whole fish. Brush the fish all over with the oil. If the fish has been deboned. stuff it with scallions and tie it together with cooking twine.
6. Place the fish on the hot grill and cook for about 5 minutes on each side or until the skin is blackened and crispy. Lift the fish gently to check the underside for color and crispness. Look inside the slashes to check that the fish is cooked; the flesh should be white and tender and slightly flaky. Remove the fish from the grill and lay it on a large platter.
7. Squeeze the juice of half a lime all over the entire fish. Garnish with the chopped scallions and serve over bun or with lots of steamed rice.
[SERVES 4]
FRIED FISH FILLETS WITH LEMONGRASS
Cá Chiên Xã
The clean and light flavors of this recipe require that you select a meaty fish such as mackerel, catfish, or sea bass, because certain types of fish won’t stand up to the hot frying oil. This is a great, palatable dish that’s very common in Vietnamese cuisine, but it is salty! It originated as a way to make a small amount of food stretch for many as an entire meal. The fish fillets turn a nice golden brown when fried, and the addition of lemongrass gives them a fragrant, lemony taste to contrast with the salt. Eat this fish with lots of rice or bun and dip tiny bites into tangy nuoc cham.
¾ to 1 pound fish fillets or steaks
½ teaspoon salt
½ tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon chili paste
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
½ teaspoon ground blac
k pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped
fresh lemongrass
2 tablespoons oil
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1. Clean the fish fillets or steaks and pat dry. Place them in a shallow dish.
2. Combine the salt and sugar in a bowl. Sprinkle the mixture evenly all over both sides of the fish. Cover and let sit for at least 8 hours in the refrigerator; overnight is ideal.
3. Remove the fish from the refrigerator. The salt and sugar should have penetrated the fish, and there should be liquid in the dish, as the salt extracts water from the fish. Drain off any water from the dish.
4. In a small bowl, whisk together the chili paste, fish sauce, lime juice, black pepper, and lemongrass.
5. In a large skillet. heat the oil over medium heat. Begin by frying the chopped garlic for a few minutes or until golden brown. Then add the fish fillets or steaks. Drizzle the fish sauce mixture all over the fish and fry for 5 minutes per side.
The Little Saigon Cookbook: Vietnamese Cuisine and Culture in Southern California's Little Saigon Page 11