Arabian Sands

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Arabian Sands Page 39

by Wilfred Thesiger

Darfur, 31, 34, 36, 37

  Daru plateau, the, 195

  Date palms, 111

  Dawasir, the: 103, 204, 207; massing to attack the Saar, 216

  Dawasir, Wadi: 126, 211, 216, 238, 243; Amir of, 242–4

  Desert, Arabian, size of, 39

  Dessie, 38

  Dew, in the desert, 163

  Dhafar, 81

  Dhafara, 116, 126, 151, 288

  Dhala, 45

  Dhaufar Mountains: 43–4, 190; trilithons on, 90; great flood in, 258

  Dhiby well, 256; arrival at, 258

  Dhow: 79, 266, 276; voyage on, 277–9

  Dibai, 163, 261, 275, 280, 325

  Difln, Wadi, 96

  Dikil, 30

  Dinka, the, 34

  Divers, Bani Yas with pearling fleet, 261

  Donkeys, 261, 304, 307

  Doon crater, 36

  Drums, priests’: in Abyssinia, 18; in the Tihama, 75, 105

  Druze, Jabal al, 37

  Dugong, 266

  Dupuis, Charles, 31

  Duru, the: 114, 267, 269, 271; treachery of, 156; hostility to Christians, 160; enmity with Rashid, 171; hostile meeting with, 172–3; they pursue Umbarak’s party in Wadi al Ain, 298–9; desire to keep Umbarak out of their territory, 319–23

  Eagles: lawful as food, 162; chasing gazelle, 198; killing fox, 284; attacking peregrines, 293

  Eastern Aden Protectorate: journey through, 182ff.; raid from, 185–6

  Egypt: 38, 109; Ancient, 92

  Elephants, 35

  Eloy, Aucher, 273

  Emi Koussi crater, 36

  Empty Quarter, the: 40ff., 54, 76ff.; first view of, 83, 108. See also throughout Chapters 7 and 11

  Execution of a Habad, 125–6

  Exploration, reasons in favour of, 278–9

  Fahad, Amir of Laila, 246–7

  Fahud, 314

  Falcons: saker, at Laila, 247; the training and using of, 288–94; the catching of, 289–90

  Farai, 304

  Fasher, 32

  Faswat al Ajuz, well of, 285

  Fennec. See Fox

  Fig-trees, 47, 179

  FitzGerald, Vesey, 41, 42

  Floods, 66–7, 182, 258

  Flycatchers, Paradise, 48

  Fox: 140; steals meat, 119; lawful food, 162; killed by eagle, 284; Fennec, 260, 304

  Frankincense, 44, 190

  Fughama: 199; anticipated attack near, 199–200

  Galifage, 27

  Gazelle: 106, 111, 113, 119, 130, 179, 192, 198, 307; becoming rare, 232

  Genghis Khan, 98

  Ghaf, 111, 119, 172, 274

  Ghafari, the: 171, 197, 273, 282, 295, 296; hostility to Umbarak’s journey through Oman, 313

  Ghaidat, 124, 197, 207

  Ghail ba Yamin, 201

  Ghanim, 65, 76, 119, 153, 164

  Gharbaniat sands, 301

  Ghazala, a camel, 274, 291

  Ghudun, Wadi, 83, 89

  Giulietti (Italian explorer), 24

  Gloucester, Duke of: mission to Ethiopia, 20

  Glubb, Sir John, 108–9, 125, 170

  Goats, 70, 73, 85, 172, 245, 274, 304

  Gojam, 37

  Granite, 232

  Grasshoppers, swarming of, 42

  Grazing. See Camels

  Greece, Ancient: influence of, on Muslim Empire, 98

  Gumsait Mahra, the, 197

  Gypsum: 120, 127; flats, 152

  Habab, the, 125

  Habarut, 192–4

  Habasha, 198

  Habashiya, Jabal, 198

  Had pastures, 234

  Hadara. See Ahl al Hadara

  Hadhramaut, the: 48, 68, 74, 203–4; architecture of, 89, 209–10; raids around, 185–6

  Hadoram. See Ahl al Hadara

  Hafit, Jabal, 274, 283, 318

  Haig-Thomas, David, 23, 25

  Haij, 305

  Haile Selassie, Emperor of Abyssinia: coronation of, 21, 198; restoration of, 37

  Hajaz Mountains: 17, 75, 237; villages in, 51; travels in, 203

  Halfain, Wadi, 204, 309, 313

  Hamad bin Hanna. See bin Hanna

  Hamaid, of the Mahra: 295; 296, 299, 301; arrested at Tawi Yasir, 314

  Hamasa, 282; sheikh of, 283

  Hamdu Uga, 27

  Hanawi, the, 171, 175, 273, 282, 320

  Hands, cutting off of, 242

  Hanu, stream bed of, 237

  Harasis, the, 47, 178–9, 320

  Hares: 130, 150–1; as forbidden food. 111; the catching of, 166, 283–4; the hunting of, 293

  Harm: 130; as camel food, 164, 165

  Harmal, 90

  Harth, the, 310

  Hasa, the, 232

  Hassi well: 220, 221; arrival at, 236ff.

  Haushi, well at, 176, 178

  Hautas, 111

  Hawking, 290–9

  Hazaramaveth, 48

  Heat, in the desert, 140, 149, 157

  Hebrews, 92

  Heliotrope. See Rimram

  Henderson, Edward, 275, 325

  Himyarite civilization: 44, 92, 198; language of, 47

  Hiza, sheikh of Abu Dhabi, 263–4, 267, 268

  Homosexuality, 125

  Honeysuckle, 17

  Huaishil: sheikh of the Dura, 317; as guide to Birkat al Mauz, 319; anger with Dura, 320; gets support from Ali bin Hilal, 321–2

  Hulaiya, 72

  Humura, the: 68, 194, 204; trilithons in their country, 90

  Hun, Wadi, 199

  Hunger, in the desert, 143–4, 157–8

  Huquf, the, 303

  Hurr, 289

  Hussain, Saif al Islam al, Governor of the Jauf, 228

  Hyenas, 179

  Ibadhis, the, 273, 314

  Ibex, 85, 188, 192, 198

  Ibn Jawali, Governor of the Hassa, 122, 152, 156

  Ibn Saud, Abd al Aziz, King of Saudi Arabia: 41, 93, 186; permission to Philby to cross Empty Quarter, 122; his tax-collectors, 152, 156; refuses permission to cross Western Sands, 203; acknowledged as overlord by the bin Maaruf Saar, 212; post at the Hassi, 221; permission to tribes to raid Mishqas, 238; orders detention of Umbarak and imprisonment of his companions, 239; anger at Umbarak’s journey to Sulaiyil, 247; and the Akhwan, 248; control over Murra, 271

  Ibri: 160–1,271; hostile Dura from, 172; diversion to collect stores from, 173–4

  Ilb, 205

  Incense, 109

  Ingrams, W. H., 204, 209

  Iraq Petroleum Company, 272, 275

  Islam, 54–5, 96–8, 249

  Izz, 295, 316, 323

  Jaalan, Jabal, 309

  Jabal. See under individual names of mountains

  Jabari, al: of the Awamir, 294; and the fennec fox, 304; agrees to accompany Jabal al Akhadar exploration, 319

  Jabrin, 116, 118, 232; Umbarak offers to act as guide to, 248–50; journey to, 250ff.

  Jackson, Noel, 275

  Jaddat al Harasis, the, 131, 178, 204

  Jadid, of the Rashid: 155, 157; leaves the party, 164

  Jarbib, 47, 82

  Jasmine, 17, 47

  Jasper, 232

  Jaub, 256

  Jauf, the, 185, 228

  Jaul, al, tableland of, 201

  Jaulbaut, 275

  Jayakar, Dr., 274

  Jerboas, 130

  Jibuti, 20

  Jidda, 41, 75, 186

  Jilida plain, the, 225, 232–3

  Jira, volcanoes of, 29

  Jiza, Wadi, 197, 198; drought in, 103

  Jizan, 75

  Johnson, E. R., Assistant Political Officer in the Hadhramaut, 210

  Joktan. See Qahtan

  Juasimi pirates, 277

  Jumaan bin Duailan. See bin Duailan

  Juniper, 17

  Junuba, the, 113, 323

  Karab, the, 152, 212, 214, 225

  Karia, 283

  Kashgai, the, 276

  Kaur, Jabal, 172, 311, 317

  Khaba well, 156

  Khalid, sheikh of Abu Dhabi, 263–4

  Khali
li, al. See Oman, Imam of

  Kharijites, the, 273

  Khartoum, 30, 32

  Khaur bin Atarit well, 120, 153

  Khaur Sabakha, 153

  Khaur Wir, 179

  Khuatim, 135–6

  Kidyut valley, 195

  Kismim pass, 82, 188

  Kites, 20, 263

  Koran, the opening verse, 55

  Kudu, 32

  Kutum, 31–2, 35–6

  Lahamma well, 284

  Laila: plan to go to, 243, 245; arrival at, 246; given no food in, 248; failure to find guide in, 248; as stronghold of the Akhwan, 249; supplies from, 250

  Lammergeyer, 75

  Larks, 130

  Lawful food, 162

  Lawrence, T. E.: 83, 97; on Bedouins, 15; Revolt in the Desert, 39; The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, 125

  Lean, O. B., 38

  Leopard, 81

  Libyan desert, 32, 34

  Limestone, 48, 177, 232, 313

  Lions, 34, 35

  Liwa: 116, 153; as centre for buying food, 155, 157; decision to look for, on way to Abu Dhabi, 259–60; found, 261; exploration of, 283ff.

  Lizards: 130, 179, 230; monitor, 260; lizard skins for carrying butter, 85

  Locusts: in the Sudan, 41; in Abyssinia, 41; ‘desert locust’, 41; Locust Research Centre, 41–2, 181–2, 203

  London, Umbarak’s homesickness in, 203

  Lucerne, 74, 238

  Mabkhaut bin Arbain. See bin Arbain

  Madhamar, Mt., 313, 314

  Mahalhal, of the Awamir, 294

  Mahra, the: 47, 68. 109, 178, 184, 192, 195, 197, 206, 214, 217; descent from the Habasha, 198; circumcision among, 124; assist in attack on Abida, 218

  Mahrat, Wadi, 197, 198

  Mahsin, of the Rashid: 101–2, 106; accident to, 109ff., 135; recovers, 114, in Salala, 179

  Maidob, Jabal, 31, 32

  Main, 228

  Makhia, the, 213

  Mamur, 323–4

  Manahil, the; 68, 73–4, 103, 152, 182, 184, 185, 214, 215, 216; raids on, 74; as sheep owners, 88; fight with the Dahm, 199; attacks on government posts, 204; hatred of the Saar, 208; raid the Yam, 207; raid the Manasir, 286–7

  Manasir, the: 156, 161, 163–4, 271; encampments of, 165; Liwa encampment of, 261; guide from, for Abu Dhabi, 261

  Mankhali, well mounds of, 236

  Manwakh well: 205–6, 213; lovely girl at, 206; well runs dry, 218–20

  Maria Theresa dollars. See Rivals

  Ma Shadid well, 88

  Masila valley, 197, 199

  Matrah, battle between Omanis and English, 273

  Maxwell, Wedderburn, 35

  Meat, division of, by lots, 85, 151

  Mecca: 97, 109; sanctuary around, 111; face towards, when praying, 55

  Michail, Negus, 19

  Miles, Colonel, 273, 276

  Minaean civilization: 44, 92; language of, 47

  Miram Muhammad, 26–7

  Mishqas, the: 208; attacks by, 244

  Modra valley, 36

  Monsoon, 47

  Moon, eclipse of, 151

  Moore, Guy, 31

  Mosque, 324

  Mudhaibi, 310

  Mudhail: 189–90; discovery of neolithic axe-head at, 190; old buildings at, 191

  Mughair well, 71

  Mughshin: 42, 46, 65, 108ff., 155, 204; prolonged drought around, 66–7; Sultan of Muscat’s claim to, 76

  Muhammad al Riqaishi. See Riqaishi, al

  Muhammad bin Abdullah al Khalili. See Oman, Imam of

  Muhammad, of the Duru: acts as rabia, 173; returns home, 175

  Muhammad, of the Rashid (son of bin Kalut): 185, 206, 217; offers to join Western Sands crossing, 207; anxiety over raiders, 207; suggests alternative crossing, 217; presented with rifle before crossing, 224; inefficiency of, 225; offers to guide from Subkhat Mutti to Abu Dhabi, 254; agrees to accompany Jabal al Akhadar exploration, 319

  Muhammad Yayu, Sultan of Aussa, 27

  Mukalla: 68, 132; plan to travel to, 181; arrival at, 201–2; return to, 203–4

  Munzinger, Werner, 24, 30

  Muqaibara well, 303

  Murra, the, 122, 152, 204, 238, 239, 250, 253–4

  Murri, Ali al, 282, 284

  Murzuk, a renegade Saar, 207–8

  Musallim bin al Kamam. See bin al Kamam

  Musallim bin Tafl. See bin Tafl

  Musandam peninsula, 271

  Muscat: 174; as capital of Oman, 273

  Muscat, Sultan of (Sayid Saiyid bin Taimur), 43, 76, 122, 272, 313, 328

  Muslim Empire, 92, 98–9

  Muslim faith. See Islam

  Mutair, the, 93

  Muwaiqih, 268, 272, 274, 281, 288, 294, 317, 319

  Nabi Hud, shrine of, 199

  Nafi, 307

  Nafud sands, 252

  Najd, the, 51, 92, 328

  Najran, 186, 203, 207, 212, 215, 240, 280

  Nasrani, al, 238

  Naukhada, 276

  Nazwa, 174, 310, 316, 317–8

  Nesbitt, L. M.: Desert and Forest, 24

  No, Lake, 35

  Nuer, the, 34, 36, 48

  Nura, 193, 194

  Oil, effects of discovery of, 95–6

  Oil used to anoint guests, 312–13

  Oleanders, 311

  Olive, wild, 17, 75

  Oman: 76, 124; route through, 156ff.; interior of, 269, 270; bitterness of feuds in, 281–2; Umbarak’s determination to return to Buraimi through, 306

  Oman, Imam of (Muhammad bin Abdullah al Khalili): 76, 160, 174, 271, 273, 295; authorizes journey back to Muwaiqih, 316–17, 324–5

  Omdurman: 30; camel ride from Jamal Maidob to, 31

  Ophir, 44

  Oryx, 32, 34, 179, 227, 228; search for, 302, 303; missed by Umbarak, 227–8; becoming extinct, 230; the stalking of, 232; Awadh shoots forty, 280

  Ostriches, 32, 231

  Palmetto. See Saf

  Palms: date, 111, 161, 164, 179, 192, 197, 209, 238, 252, 261, 263, 268; coconut, 44

  Pelicans, 229

  Peregrines. See Falcons

  Persians 92

  Philby, St. John: 39, 242–3, 246–7, 248–51; and crossing of the Empty Quarter, 121–2; work along Yemen border, 204

  Phoenicians, 92

  Pinks, 17

  Pintails, 179

  Pirate Coast, 277

  Plant distribution in the Empty Quarter, 181

  Porphyry, 232

  Prayer: 54; call to, 55

  Primulas, 17

  Qahtan (or Joktan), descendant of Shem, 48, 91, 171

  Qahtan, the, 75

  Qaid, 119

  Qaimiyat, the, 228–9

  Qamaiqam, a camel, 156, 266

  Qariya: well, at, 236; ruins at, 237, 248

  Qarra, the 46, 47; customs with cows, 48; as cattle owners, 82

  Qarra Mountains, 43, 46–7, 122, 179, 186

  Qasaiwara well, 295, 296, 299

  Qasm, 282

  Qassis, 150, 228, 229, 230, 258, 283

  Qatar peninsula, 254

  Quff, palm groves at, 209

  Qurn Sahma, 303

  Qutuf, 261

  Rabadh, 164.166

  Rabia, the, part played by, 171, 173, 175, 184, 196

  Rai, of the Afar, 175–6

  Raidat al Saar, 204–5, 212–13

  Rainfall, in the desert, 127–8, 140, 181, 256–9

  Ramadhan, fast of, 142

  Ramlat al Ghafa, 122, 126, 145

  Rashid, the: 53, 67, 79, 102–3; prayers among, 55, 74; contrasted with the Bait Kathir, 67; smalt numbers of, 68; signal of peace among, 72; raids on, 73–4; raid on Saar, 107; lead across the Empty Quarter, 134ff.; enmity with Dura, 171; as guides to Mukalla, 181–2; anger at truce-breaking by the Dahm, 187; agree to attack the Dahm, 200; discuss truce with the Saar, 206; buy camels from the bin Maaruf, 214–5; youthfulneu of guides, 216; two herdsmen killed by the Abida, 217; attack on the Abida at Thamud, 217; renewal of truce with the Dahm, 280

  Rashid, son of Sheikh of Di
bai, 295

  Ras Lul Seged, 20

  Ravens: 130, 147; eaten as cure for stomach ache, 162; attacked by peregrine, 293

  Rhyolite, 232

  Rift Valley, 24

  Rim, 129, 229, 230

  Rimram, 123, 130

  Riqaishi, Muhammad al, 174

  Riqaishi, the, Governor of Ibri, 160–1, 317–18

  Riqaiya. See Walia

  Riyadh, 122, 126, 243

  Riyals, 81, 159

  Romans, the: 91, 92; attempt to invade Arabia, 44

  Roses, wild, 17

  Royal Air Force: 43, 49, 50; in the desert, 180, 184, 210, 255, 272, 275

  Rub al Khali. See Empty Quarter

  Rualla, the, 68, 328

  Rustaq, 273

  Saad, Sheikh, tomb of, 190

  Saar, the: 68, 107, 110, 185; trilithons in their country, 90; murder of Saar boy, 107; nature of, 205; discuss truce with the Rashid, 206; camels bought from, 212; encampment near Manwakh, 213; credulity of, 214; bitterness towards the Rashid, 216

  Sabaean civilization: 44, 92, 198; language of, 47

  Sabkhat Mutti salt-flats: 254, 258; the crossing of, 250ff.

  Sabyia, 75

  Saddle camel, Omani, 57

  Sadr, of the Saar, 220, 221, 222, 224–5, 230, 235–7

  Saf, 86, 87

  Sahail, killing of, 107

  Sahara desert, 35

  Sahma sands, 110, 301

  Said, of the Bait Kathir and evil spirit, 108–9; and proposed crowing of Empty Quarter, 114, 116; and stomach ache, 122–3

  Said, of the Rashid, (brother of bin Kabina), 131, 196, 200

  Saif al Islam al Hussain. See Hussein

  Saints: oaths sworn on tombs of, 112

  Saiwun: 204; Sultan’s palace at, 209; modernization of, 210

  Saiyid Said bin Timur. See Muscat, Sultan of

  Saiyids, the: 209, 214, 215; overcharging by, 215

  Saker. See Falcon

  Salakh, Mt., 313

  Salala: 43, 64, 134; description of, 43–6; Wali of, 41, 45, 181; stay at, 182ff.

  Salih, of the Saar, 220, 222, 224–5, 233, 234, 237

  Salih bin Aisa. See bin Aisa

  Salim bin Ghabaisha. See bin Ghabaisha

  Salim bin Habarut. See bin Habarut

  Salim bin Kabina. See bin Kabina

  Salim bin Mautlauq. See bin Mautlauq

  Salim bin Rashid al Kharusi, former Imam of Oman, 273

  Salt-bushes. See Harm

  Salt-flats, 140, 143, 148

  Salukis, 283–4

  Sambuk, 275, 276

  Sanau well, 71

  Sandford, Colonel (later Brigadier) D.A., 21

  Sands, the. See Empty Quarter

  Sands: colours of, 128, 137, 140, 148, 152; ‘the singing of’, 166; reading the, 302–3

  Sands, Western. See Empty Quarter

  Sandstorms, 322

  Sardines: 44, 70, 193; fed to camels, 79

  Saud, brother of Salim bin Mautlauq, 218

 

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