by C. H. Layman
Saturday the 5th. Little wind, and fair. At four this morning I saw Cape Pillar, bearing W by N distant eight leagues; saw a smoke on the south shore, and at noon we saw a smoke on the north shore, but we did not care to lose time. At three o’clock saw Cape Deseada, bearing from Cape Pillar SW distant four leagues.
At four o’clock wore the boat, and steered ESE. The Lieutenant was now fully convinced we have been all along in the right Straits, and had we run but one league further on Monday November 17th we had escaped all this trouble and anxiety. As for my own part, I was very well assured from the first entrance that we were right, but the Lieutenant would not believe that it was Cape Pillar on the south shore coming into the Straits, but thought we were in a lagoon to the northward. So that we have been above a fortnight coming back to rectify mistakes, and to look at Cape Pillar a second time. At eight o’clock came abreast of the smoke seen in the morning. The people, being well assured that we are actually in the Straits of Magellan, are all alive. Wind at WSW.
Sunday, little wind at W with rain. At three this morning abreast of Cape Munday; at six abreast of Cape de Quad opposite to which on the south shore saw a smoke, on which we went ashore to the Indians, who came out on a point of land at the entrance of a cove, hallooing and crying, Bona! Bona! endeavouring to make us understand that they were our friends. When ashore we traded with them for two dogs, three Brent geese, and some seal, which supply was very acceptable to us. We supped on the dogs, and thought them equal in goodness to the best mutton in England. We took from the Indians a canoe, made of the bark of trees, but soon towed her under water, and were obliged to cut her loose. Steered NE by E. At eight o’clock abreast of St Jerome’s Sound; at twelve, abreast of Royal Island.
Tuesday the 8th, at four this morning, being calm, weighed, and rowed towards Elizabeth’s Island, it bearing WNW. At four in the afternoon anchored off the northernmost point in eight fathom water, fine sand, about half a cable’s length from the shore. Put the vessel in and landed some people to seek for wood and water. In the evening the people came aboard, having been all over the island in search of wood and water, but found none. Here indeed we found shags and seagulls in great numbers, it being breeding time. We got a vast quantity of their eggs, most of them having young ones in the shell; however we beat them up all together with a little flour, and made a very rich pudding. Elizabeth’s Island is a beautiful spot of ground to appearance, with very good pasture, but it is entirely barren of anything for the support of man. This day John Turner, Marine, perished for want of food.
Wednesday the 9th, at four this morning weighed, and steered ENE for the narrows, with the wind at SSW. When abreast of the Sweepstakes Foreland steered SSE on purpose to look for water. After going along shore about six leagues into a deep bay, we saw a fine delightful country. Here we saw guanacos in great numbers, ten or twelve in a drove. They are to be seen in such droves all along the shore for several leagues.
The guanaco is as large as any English deer, with a long neck, his head, mouth, and ears resembling a sheep. He has very long slender legs, and is cloven-footed like a deer, with a short bushy tail of a reddish colour. His back is covered with red wool, pretty long; but down his sides and all the belly part is white wool. Those guanacos, though at a distance very much resembling the female deer, are probably the sheep of this country; they are exceeding nimble, of an exquisite quick sight, very shy, and difficult to be shot.
At noon, finding neither wood nor water, wore to the northward. At three got abreast of the foreland, hauled in for Fish Cove, which lies just round the eastern point. Here we expected to land, and shoot some of those guanacos; but when abreast of the cove, the wind blew so hard right out, that we were obliged to bear away for the first narrows, it being impossible to get in. At eight this evening entered the first narrows, meeting the flood, which runs here very strong. At twelve came to an anchor in five fathom about a mile off shore. The tide flows on the western shore seven hours, and ebbs five. This day Robert Vicars, Marine, perished with want.
Thursday the 10th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail. At six got out of the first narrows, hauled in for a deep bay on the N shore to seek for water. The Boatswain swam ashore, and in half an hour afterwards came down on the beach and brought us the news of finding fresh water. It being rocky ground and ebbing water, the vessel struck. We were obliged, in this exigence, to slip the cable, time not permitting us to haul up the anchor. We stood off and on the shore till half flood, then went in and took the cable on board. After landing some people with casks to fill, hauled the anchor up and went about two miles farther out.
Friday the 11th, at three this morning the boat struck upon the tide of ebb. It ebbing so fast, we could not get her off. In a quarter of an hour’s time the boat was dry. We were favoured with little wind and smooth water, otherwise she must have stove to pieces, the ground being very foul. It ebbs dry above a league off, and there is shoal water a great deal further out, so that it is dangerous for a ship to haul into this bay. While the boat was dry, we got all the water-casks out of the hold, and put them ashore to be filled. At six hauled the boat off, having received no damage. At eight, it being four feet flood, ran the boat close in shore and took off our water, the whole quantity being four tons, out of which we were obliged to leave two puncheons, one quarter-cask, with three muskets, a funnel, and some other necessaries; and were very much concerned, lest we should also leave some of the people ashore. The wind blowing hard and the sea tumbling in, we were under a necessity of hauling off and putting to sea, for fear of losing the boat.
Since we left the island where the Wager was lost, we have several times very narrowly escaped being made a wreck, and sometimes have been preserved when we have seen our fate before our eyes, and every moment expected it, and when all the conduct and ability of men could have availed nothing. Any one, who has been a witness of those providential deliverances, and doubts the being of a supreme power, disqualifies himself from any title to all future mercy, and justly deserves the wrath of an incensed deity.
This day at noon, being well out of the bay and nigh mid-channel over, steered ENE for Cape Virgin Mary, with a fine gale at SW. At one we saw the cape bearing NE by E distant nine leagues. At seven in the evening saw a low point of flat land, stretching away from the cape SSE two leagues. At eight, little or no wind, steered E by S. At twelve at night doubled the point, the wind at W right in the middle of the bay, where we filled the water. Inland lie two peaks, exactly like asses’ ears. We would advise all vessels from hauling into this bay, it being shoal water and foul ground.
As for every other part of the Straits of Magellan, from Cape Victory to Cape Virgin Mary, we recommend Sir John Narborough,[39] who in his account is so just and exact that we think it is impossible for any man living to mend his works. We have been a month in those Straits, from our first sight of Cape Pillar to Cape Virgin Mary. The whole length of the Straits, the reaches and turnings included, is reckoned one hundred and sixteen leagues.
Chapter 10
Survivors Arrive at Rio Grande
Long-boat Speedwell, 16th December 1741. They make the uninhabited harbour of Port Desire; seals and water are available, but little else. There is dissent and disaffection in the boat, and all are in a miserable condition. More deaths by starvation and some accidents occur; and while foraging for provisions ashore the wind and surf increase, and eight men, including Midshipman Morris, are left to their fate. Landings are made on the north side of the River Plate estuary, and some unofficial help obtained from Spaniards. Finally, after an epic voyage of 2500 miles in an open boat, they arrive at Portuguese Rio Grande, 107 days after leaving Wager Island. The 30 survivors are hospitably received by an incredulous Governor and population.
From the journal of John Bulkeley, Gunner
We steered NW by N for the harbour of Port Desire.[40] The going into this harbour is very remarkable: on the south side lies, one mile in the land, a high peaked-up rock much li
ke a tower, looking as though it was a work of art set up for a landmark to steer into this harbour; this rock is forty feet high. At five o’clock got into the harbour and ran up to Seal Island which lies about a league up. Here we killed more seal in half an hour than we could carry off, being obliged to leave the greatest part of what we killed behind. The people eating greedily of the seal were seized with violent fevers and pains in their heads.
While we were at Port Desire we had seal and fowl in abundance. The Carpenter found here a parcel of bricks, some of them with letters cut in them. On one of those bricks these words were very plain and legible, “Captain Straiton, 16 cannons, 1687.” Those we imagine have been laid here from a wreck.[41]
The Carpenter with six men went in search of water; a mile up the water’s side they found Peckett’s Well, mentioned in Sir John Narborough’s book. The spring is so small that it does not give above thirty gallons per day; but the well being full, supplied us.
The people grow very turbulent and uneasy, requiring flour to be served out, which in our present circumstances is a most unreasonable request. We have but one cask of flour on board, and a great distance to run to Brazil, and no other provision in the boat but the seal we have killed here. Nay, they carry their demands much higher, insisting that the marine officers, and such people as cannot be assisting in working the boat, shall have but half the allowance of the rest; accordingly they have pitched upon twenty to be served half a pound of flour each man, and themselves a pound. This distinction the half-pounders complain of, and that twenty are selected to be starved.
Monday 28th December 1741. Moderate gales, and fair. This day served out all the flour in the boat, at three pound and a half to each man. We have now nothing to live on but seal, and what Providence throws in our way.
Friday, January 1st 1742. Fresh gales, and fair weather, with a great sea. At ten last night, shifting the man at helm, brought her by the lee,[42] broke the boom, and lost a seaman overboard. The greatest part of our seal taken in at Port Desire, for want of salt to cure it, now stinks very much; but having nothing else we are obliged to eat it. We are now miserable beyond description, having nothing to feed on ourselves, and at the same time almost eaten up with vermin.
Wednesday 6th, departed this life Mr Thomas Harvey, the Purser; he died a skeleton for want of food. This gentleman probably was the first Purser belonging to His Majesty’s service that ever perished with hunger. We see daily a great number of whales.
Sunday 10th. This day at noon, in working the bearings and distance to Cape St Andrew, do find myself not above thirteen leagues distant from the land; therefore hauled in NW to make it before night. We saw today abundance of insects, particularly butterflies and horse-stingers. We have nothing to eat but some stinking seal, and not above twenty out of the forty-three which are now alive have even that, and such has been our condition for this week past. Nor are we better off in regard to water, there not being above eighty gallons aboard. Never were beheld a parcel of more miserable objects; there are not above fifteen of us healthy (if people may be called healthy that are scarce able to crawl). I am reckoned at present one of the strongest men in the boat, yet can hardly stand on my legs ten minutes together, nor even that short space of time without holding. Every man of us has had a new coat of skin from head to foot. We that are in the best state of health do all we can to encourage the rest.
At four this afternoon we were almost transported with joy at the sight of land (having seen no land for fourteen days before) the extremes of which bore NW about seven leagues. We ran in with it, and at eight anchored in eight fathom; fine sand about a league from the shore; the northern point bore about NE, the southern point about SW by S.
Monday 11th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail, steering along shore NE by E. This is a pleasant and delightful country to sail by; we kept within a mile of the shore. We saw horses and large dogs in great numbers, the shore being perfectly covered with them. At noon I had a good observation in the latitude of 38:40 S. At the same time saw ahead land, which I take for Cape St Andrew’s; it is a long sandy point, very low, where a shoal runs off SE about three leagues. Sounded and had but two fathom and a half at high water. When we got clear of this we steered NE into a sandy bay, and anchored there in three fathom and a half, fine sand. Here is a great swell, and shoal water. This bay we call Shoalwater Bay.
Tuesday 12th. Lying in Shoalwater Bay, the wind at SE and fair weather. Having nothing on board the vessel to eat and but one cask of water to drink, we put her in as nigh as we could venture; so that any person who had the least skill in swimming might get ashore. Here runs a pretty large surf, which may endanger our vessel. This puts us to a stand: to go from hence without meat or drink is certain death. A few of the healthiest were resolved to swim on shore to get water and provisions. The officers, viz. the Boatswain, Carpenter, and Lieutenant Ewers, to animate the rest first leaped into the water; eleven of the people followed them. In this attempt one of the marines was unfortunately drowned. We tossed overboard four quarter-casks to fill with water, with ammunition for shooting.
When the officers and people got on shore they saw thousands of horses and dogs; the dogs are of a mongrel breed and very large. They also saw abundance of parrots and seals on the rocks, but not a bush growing on the place. They made a fire with horse-dung, and shot a great many seal, which they cut up in quarters to bring aboard. One of the water-casks being leaky, they cut it up and converted it into fuel to dress the seal. They caught four armadillos; they are much larger than our hedgehogs, and very like them; their bodies are cased all over with shells, shutting under one another like shells of armour. In this country thirteen of His Majesty’s British subjects put to flight a thousand Spanish horse. Horses are more numerous here than sheep are on the plains in Dorset and Wiltshire.
We on board see abundance of seal lying on the shore cut up in pieces, but the wind blows so hard we can by no means get at it. We think ourselves now worse off than ever, for we are actually starving in the sight of plenty. We have but two people on board that can swim; to give them all the assistance we can, the Lieutenant and myself, with the rest of the people, proposed to haul the long-boat nearer in, and make a raft for one of the two to swim ashore on, and to carry a line to haul some of the seal aboard. With much entreaty these two swimmers were prevailed on to cast lots. The lot falling on the weakest of them, who was a young lad about fifteen years of age and scarce able to stand, we would not suffer him to go. While our brethren were regaling in the fullness of plenty ashore, we aboard were obliged to strip the hatches of a seal-skin, which has been for some time nailed on, and made use of for a tarpaulin. We burnt the hair off the skin, and for want of anything else fell to chewing the seal-skin.
Wednesday 13th, fine weather, and calm. At six this morning the Boatswain shot a horse, and the people a wild dog. The horse was branded on the left buttock with the letters AR. By this we conjecture there are inhabitants not far off. At nine veered the boat in, lashed the oars to the hatches, and made a stage to haul up the seal. The people swam off three casks of water. Sent on shore one quarter-cask more, and two breakers. Came aboard the Boatswain, Carpenter, and Lieutenant Ewers; and four men more are getting the seal and the horse on board, which was no sooner in the vessel than a sea-breeze came on, and blew so hard that we were obliged to weigh, leaving ashore one quarter-cask, two breakers, and eight of the people. The wind at ESE and a tumbling sea, came to an anchor about a league off the shore. We shared all the provisions among the company. We still see the people ashore, but can’t get them off.
Thursday 14th, hard gales at ESE and fair weather. Last night the sea was so great that it broke the rudder-head off. We were doubtful every moment of the vessel’s parting, which if she had we must have been all of us inevitably lost. We were obliged to put to sea, not being able to get the people off.[43] We sent ashore in a scuttled puncheon some wearing apparel, four muskets, with balls, powder, flints, candles, and several n
ecessaries; and also a letter to acquaint them of the danger we were in, and of the impossibility of our riding it out till they could get off.
In Freshwater Bay, dated on board the Speedwell, on the coast of South America, in the latitude of 37:25 S, longitude from the meridian of London, 65:00 W, this 14th day of January 1742.
These are to certify the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain, &c. that we, whose names are under-mentioned, having nothing left on board the vessel but one quarter-cask of water, were obliged to put into the first place we could for subsistence, which was in Freshwater Bay; where we came to an anchor, as near the shore as we could without endangering the vessel, having no boat aboard and a large surf on the shore; therefore Mr King the Boatswain, Mr Cummins the Carpenter, and Lieutenant Ewers, with eleven of the people, jumped overboard, in order to swim ashore, with three casks for water; in which attempt James Greenham was drowned in the surf off the shore: the sea breeze coming on prevented the people getting on board the same night; therefore on Wednesday morning, it being then calm, they brought to the beach the casks filled with water, with seal and other provisions in great quantities, which we hauled on board. The Boatswain, Carpenter, Lieutenant Ewers, and three of the people swam off, but the sea breeze coming in, and the surf rising, the rest were discouraged from coming off; we hauled a good berth off the shore, where we lay the remainder of the day and all the night. The greatness of the sea broke off our rudder-head, and we expected every minute the vessel would founder at her anchor. Thursday morning we saw no probability of the people coming aboard; and the wind coming out of the sea, and not one stick of firewood in the vessel to dress our victuals, and it being every man’s opinion that we must put to sea or perish, we got up a scuttled cask, and put into it all manner of necessaries, with four small arms lashed to the cask, and a letter to acquaint them of our danger; which cask we saw them receive, as also the letter that was in it; they then fell on their knees, and made signals wishing us well; at which we got under sail, and left our brethren, whose names are under-mentioned.