River Town

Home > Other > River Town > Page 33
River Town Page 33

by Peter Hessler


  To some degree, Anne had been like this. She had never quite fit in with the others, but she was also very bright, socially gifted, and attractive. In the end, these qualities gave her enough confidence to ignore certain aspects of the group. But Janelle was only extremely intelligent, which probably served to sharpen her sense of isolation.

  Often money lay at the heart of these stresses. Peasant women saw their husbands go off in search of work, gaining financial security but leaving their spouses isolated, and sometimes this loneliness destroyed them. Women could earn money themselves; this was a way of becoming independent, but a career could also result in the frustration of sexism and the criticism of people who felt that a woman shouldn’t strive in this way. A woman like Anne could go south to Shenzhen, where there was money; but Shenzhen money could be earned in many ways. There were xiaojies who worked as secretaries and there were three-with xiaojies. xiaojies like Li Jiali and xiaojies like Anne. All of them were doing whatever they could to earn money. And they were surrounded by plenty of men who had sold their souls long ago, and often the women had to negotiate this uncertain world alone.

  AT THE END OF THE SEMESTER, before the Chinese New Year, Miss Ou slipped an envelope under my door. Inside the envelope was a letter, a copy of her health certificate, and five hundred yuan. The letter was in broken English:

  Dear Pete,

  How long have to see you, where you has gone recently?

  Please remember: “First thing first.” Can you tell me. May I help you?

  “Make every-thing risk must rise early.”

  “Take a chance! All life is a chance the man who goes furthest is generally the one who is willing to do and dare.”

  “Although language isn’t complete interlinked, it isn’t misunderstood to express love.”

  “The best relationships are these which we create at our own expense with our own honesty and understanding.”

  Because not easy, so we should double cherish.

  “Miracles sometimes occur, but one has to work terribly hard for them.”

  “Bold and mighty forces will come to your aid.”

  “A good wife and health is a man’s best wealth.” “Happiness is being married to your best friend.”

  “Think more and become wiser.” Your own are wonderful!

  May I ask a favor of? I sure you able to do something. I’m sorry to trouble you, I do appreciate your kindly help. Please to my home have food, spend Spring Festival together, shall we? The best of luck to you!

  Sincerely,

  Ou Xiaomei

  P.S. This is my health certificate.

  The health certificate noted that she was 1.70 meters tall and weighed sixty-seven kilograms. There weren’t any problems with her heart, chest, or lungs. Her teeth, nose, and ears were also good. She was listed at thirty years of age, which was not true; the certificate was a photocopy of the original and obviously this detail had been doctored. But everything else looked accurate.

  On the upper right corner of the health certificate was a photograph of Miss Ou. The picture was at least twenty years old. It was a small black-and-white snapshot of a much younger Miss Ou wearing heavy-rimmed glasses and neatly curled hair. She was smiling in the photograph, a pretty young woman who looked at the camera with confidence.

  The one-hundred-yuan notes were folded neatly in half. It was more than half of what Miss Ou made in a month. Even in America it was a good sum, sixty bucks, but in Fuling you could eat for two months on five hundred yuan. If you had that much money twenty times over, you could buy yourself a second child.

  I WAS AFRAID OF MISS OU and rarely dealt with her directly. During the first year I had learned that directness only encouraged her; once I asked her firmly to stop coming to my apartment at night, and she became very excited and showed up every evening for the next week. Like all of my Miss Ou stories, it seemed funny when told out of context, but when it happened I was only annoyed and depressed by how desperately unhappy she seemed.

  I took the money to Fei Xiaoyun, who worked in a different section of the same department store as Miss Ou. Fei Xiaoyun was possibly the prettiest xiaojie I knew in town, as well as one of the kindest; she had been one of the first to talk with Adam and me when our Chinese was still bad. I often stopped to chat with her when I went into town, and I knew that she would understand the problem with Miss Ou. I gave her the money and explained the situation.

  “You know that soon it’s the Spring Festival,” Fei Xiaoyun said. “There are many Chinese traditions at this time of year, and one of them is to give people money. So that’s probably why she gave it to you—she just wants to show her kindness.”

  Years ago, Fei Xiaoyun had been a student at the college, and because of that the sound of her Mandarin was very pleasant. I listened to her clear tones and then I shook my head.

  “During the Spring Festival people give money to children,” I said. “I understand that tradition. But I’m not a child and you don’t give this kind of money to an adult. Would it be appropriate if I gave you five hundred yuan because you’re my friend?”

  “No,” she said. “That wouldn’t be appropriate.”

  “It’s the same way with this money. I think it’s very strange and it embarrasses me.”

  “Yes,” she said, sighing. “It is a little strange.”

  That was what I liked the most about Fei Xiaoyun—she didn’t feel the need to lie to me just because I was a waiguoren. She had enough sympathy for Miss Ou to try to defend her, but at the same time she understood where I was coming from. Sadly she looked at the bills in the envelope.

  “Will you please help me and give that back to Miss Ou?” I asked.

  “Yes. I’ll be sure to do that.”

  “You can tell her that I’m sorry I can’t accept it. But please don’t encourage her—I don’t want her to bother me anymore. I don’t want to be rude, but I don’t want her to call me or come to my apartment again.”

  “I understand. I’ll try to tell her that.” But I could see that Fei Xiaoyun knew it was hopeless. Miss Ou was one of those who had slipped beyond the pale, and there wasn’t much that you could do about people like that. I assumed that whenever I left Fuling for good there would be some kind of minor hassle with Miss Ou, which was precisely the way it would happen. But standing there in the department store I didn’t worry too much about the future. In Fuling I always dealt with problems one at a time, and right now the most important issue was to give the money back.

  I thanked Fei Xiaoyun and wished her a happy Spring Festival. She smiled, placing the envelope in her desk, and a couple weeks later she reported that she had returned it successfully. I put Miss Ou’s health certificate in a folder where it could be forgotten. But sometimes I found myself thinking about the old photograph, and I wondered why the young woman had never married, and what had happened to make her the way she was today. For some reason I never threw the photograph away.

  THE TEACHER

  “EVERYBODY NEEDS SOME KIND OF FAITH,” says Kong Ming. “Whether it’s religion, or Capitalist Democracy, or Communism—regardless of what the faith is, everybody needs something. My faith is the Communist Party. I first wanted to join when I was a college student, but at that time I wasn’t accepted.”

  Teacher Kong is a Party Member and a former peasant and a current instructor of Ancient Chinese Literature in the Chinese department of Fuling Teachers College. He is thirty-three years old, and there are a few streaks of silver in his black hair. He has a soft smile that is shadowed by the barest hint of a mustache on his upper lip. He knows a great deal about Han Dynasty poetry, and his three-year-old son has the given name Songtao, which means “waves of pines”: the sound a pine forest makes when the wind blows.

  “It’s a common phrase in Chinese poetry,” Teacher Kong explains. “It was also used once by Shelley—I read it in translation. There’s a poem he wrote about a forest, where he describes the trees making that same sound. I think the forest was in Italy but
I’m not certain.”

  There are only 58 million Party Members in all of China—less than 5 percent of the population. For more than a decade, Teacher Kong was interested in joining, but it wasn’t until last year that he was finally accepted, after a formal application and a series of interviews and evaluations that took months to complete. “In the past they used to look more carefully at your home and your family,” he says. “Your background was very important. But that’s not the way it is now—they look at your ideas instead, which is better.

  “I think the basic goals of Communism—to help the poor, to make things equal—I think those are good goals. The Party certainly has problems, of course, and some people join for selfish reasons. They want more power, and after they become Party Members they only care about themselves. That’s not good—that’s why we have corruption, because a few people only care about themselves. And if the Communist Party gets worse and worse, of course the common people won’t believe in it. This is the biggest problem right now. But I believe that most people still support the Party, and I certainly agree with its ideas. There always will be some problems, but the fundamental goals are good.”

  ONE OF THE FUNDAMENTAL GOALS of the Chinese Communist Party has always been stability for the average citizen, which traditionally has been maintained through the system of state-run work units. Teacher Kong’s danwei is the college, and as a result his life has none of the scramble and uncertainty of the entrepreneur. His three-room apartment is owned and maintained by the college, which rents it for roughly thirty yuan a month—a sum so small that its payment is essentially a formality. The college also provides Teacher Kong with health insurance, as well as a retirement pension. At less than eight hundred yuan, his monthly salary isn’t high, but the big perk is security, because it’s unheard-of for the college to fire an employee. Teacher Kong has what Americans would call tenure, except that traditionally in Communist China such tenure has been given the moment you start your job, and it has been given to everybody who works for a state danwei: teachers, government officials, post office employees, train attendants, dock laborers, factory workers. Under Chinese Communism, all of them have job security—“the iron rice bowl.”

  But already this term is slipping into the past tense, and people in Fuling tend to use it in one of two ways. Usually it is heavy with irony, as locals emphasize a wasteful system that needs further reform; but there are still those who use it nostalgically as they describe something comfortable that is steadily disappearing. The way this term is used depends on where one stands in the danwei system, and increasingly the government is adopting the more critical viewpoint of the iron rice bowl. As a result, no rice bowl is entirely iron, and no danwei is without reform, and never is Socialism without those Chinese Characteristics that are developing into a strange marriage of Communism and Capitalism, constantly shifting and redefining the parameters of lives like Teacher Kong’s.

  The first major change will hit him later this year, in June of 1998, when his apartment will be privatized. No longer will he enjoy the formality of a thirty-yuan rent payment; instead, the apartment’s fifty-four square meters will be sold to him for a little more than ten thousand yuan. It’s a good price—but nevertheless a lot of money for a man who makes eight hundred yuan a month, and whose wife makes even less as a freelance photographer. There is, of course, the possibility that the apartment’s value will rise, providing Teacher Kong with a profit in the long run—but nothing in the past has taught him to see an apartment as an investment. Nobody in Fuling speaks of mortgages and refinancing, and it’s unheard of for a common citizen to get a loan from a bank. To make a big purchase, you pay from your own savings, or you borrow from family and friends—or, if the money can’t be found, you don’t buy at all.

  Other cracks are spreading across the iron bowl. Already the government has decided that the danwei insurance system will be reformed. The details of this change have yet to be determined, but probably Fuling’s teachers will have to buy their own policies from China’s fledgling insurance companies. And soon Teacher Kong and his wife, Xu Lijia, will have to deal with the issue of schooling. Elementary schools in the East River district charge the standard fees—more than one hundred yuan per semester in tuition, along with book and uniform charges. Such expenses are not difficult to bear, but the quality of public education in Fuling has started to vary widely, because schools with good reputations can charge higher tuition fees, thus paying higher salaries to keep top-rate teachers. The East River institutions are slipping in this competitive environment, and most teachers at the college choose to send their children to downtown schools. But such transfers are increasingly expensive—a few years ago it cost eight thousand yuan to change districts, and now the one-time fee has leaped to twelve thousand. How much higher will it be in three years, when Kong Songtao is ready for school? And is it worth the money? Are there other Characteristics that will crop up in the once-stable world of the Socialist danwei, leading to more difficult decisions for the family? And will these changes ever reach the point where Teacher Kong no longer speaks of Communism as a xinyang, a faith?

  BUT EVEN AMID THESE CHANGES, Teacher Kong is not particularly worried. Decisions will be made when necessary; in the meantime, he teaches ancient Chinese literature and watches his son grow up. This equanimity has nothing to do with Teacher Kong’s status as a Party Member, committed to the government’s policies. Instead, he is calm for the same reason that so many other Chinese are strangely placid in the midst of changes that seem overwhelming to outsiders. Quite simply, he has seen far worse.

  “When I was a boy we didn’t have enough to eat,” says Teacher Kong. “Especially in 1972 and 1973—those were very bad years. Part of it was that we lived in a remote place where the land wasn’t very good, but also there were some problems associated with the Cultural Revolution—problems with production and agricultural methods. It was a little better later in the 1970s, but still it wasn’t too good. We never ate meat; I was always hungry. Every day we ate rice gruel, and we only had a little bit of that. Rarely did we have salt. We ate weeds, wildflowers, pine needles—I’ve eaten all those things.

  “My mother died when I was five, after she gave birth to my sister. Of course, we didn’t have milk or anything like that to help the baby, who died as well. I don’t remember that. But at the age of ten my father died, which I do remember. He got sick suddenly, a very bad cold, and in three days he was dead.

  “After that, things were even worse. My grandfather wasn’t strong enough to work, and I was too young to do much, so my uncle had to support all of us. At that time the Production Team in that village was very bad, and they weren’t of any help. Later, things improved and they were able to assist us, but for many years it was terrible.”

  All of Kong Ming’s early life took place in the mountains outside Fengdu, a town that nowadays has about thirty thousand residents. From his childhood home it took an hour by foot to reach the nearest road, which was three hours by rough bus ride from Fengdu, and as a result Kong Ming never saw the town until he was fourteen years old. He helped his uncle farm the land, where they grew wheat and corn on the slopes, rice in the paddies, and vegetables where they could. “The work didn’t seem hard back then,” he says, “but it would be hard now, because I’m not used to it anymore.” He looks at his hands and smiles, for now they are the hands of a teacher—ink-stained and soft, the dirt and calluses long gone.

  “I go to the countryside now,” he says, “and I can’t believe how hard the work looks, even around the suburbs of Fuling, where the peasants are relatively well off. I can’t believe I used to live in a place like that. And I see the students here at the college, most of whom are from peasant families, and I want to tell them that they shouldn’t waste their parents’ money. So many of our students are from backgrounds like mine, but they’ve already forgotten how hard the work is. On weekends they go out and waste so much money.”

  Only a few of his middle-sch
ool classmates made it to high school, and none of the others tested well enough to go to college. He was admitted to Sichuan Teachers College, a four-year institution in Chengdu that is the top teachers college in the province. After graduating in 1988, he taught in a Fengdu trade school for six years, and then he was offered a job in Fuling.

  Almost anybody in America who has made a rise like Teacher Kong’s would be full of the confidence—and perhaps the arrogance—of the self-made man, but it is characteristically Chinese that such pride is completely absent. He rarely talks about his background, and he never emphasizes its difficulty, because he knows that things easily could have been worse.

  “My family never had any trouble during the Cultural Revolution,” he says, when asked about political problems. “We were too poor. After Landlords, there were three types of peasants: Rich Peasants, Middle Peasants, and Poor Peasants. We were very poor—when you were as poor as we were, you didn’t have anything to worry about during the Cultural Revolution. As long as you didn’t steal something, or kill somebody, or commit another crime, there wasn’t anything to worry about. Nobody in my family was persecuted.

  “I can remember some of the village meetings at the end of the Cultural Revolution, in 1974 and 1975. I didn’t really understand, of course, because I was only in elementary school, but I remember them clearly. They would take a Landlord, or maybe a Capitalist Roader—usually somebody who had been trying to sell firewood or vegetables—and they would have a meeting to criticize him. He’d stand like this.”

  Teacher Kong demonstrates: feet together, waist bent slightly, head bowed so that his chin is tucked against his chest. For a few seconds he stands completely still, and then he laughs and continues the story.

  “They didn’t do the airplane so much. Mostly they had to stand like this, and if they didn’t bow their head far enough, the people would force them down. I remember one older man in the village who had been a Landlord. At all the meetings they made him stand for hours like that, with his head bowed. He would shift his head to the side, because it was more comfortable that way, and finally after all the meetings his head was like that all the time. Even after the Cultural Revolution was finished, he would walk around the village with his head bent to the side.”

 

‹ Prev