by Graham Kerr
Per serving: 100 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 16 g carbohydrate, 4 g protein, 5 g dietary fiber, 25 mg sodium
Annual/Cool Season
Water: Evenly moist until chickpeas have pushed through the soil; regularly during flowering and pod formation. Avoid overhead watering.
Sun: Full, but will grow in partial shade
Companion Planting:
PRO: Potatoes, cucumbers, corn, strawberries, celery, summer savory
CON: Garlic
Pests: Aphids, bean beetles, flea beetles, leafhoppers, mites
Diseases: Blight, mosaic, anthracnose (Note: there are disease-resistant varieties)
Soil: Loose, well-drained soil, rich in organic matter
Fertilizer: Add aged compost to planting beds in advance of planting, and potassium and phosphorus during growing time
pH: 6.0-6.8
Varieties: Chickpea (garbanzo), gram, Black Kabuli, Garden Green
Plant Care: Avoid handling chickpeas when wet or with heavy dew, as this may promote the spread of fungus spores
Zones: 3-11
Planting: Indoors, start in a peat or paper pot several weeks before transplanting out. Outside, sow 1½-2 inches deep, 3-6 inches apart, as early as 2-3 weeks before the average last frost in spring. Thin out to 12-24 inches apart.
Germinate: 4-10 days
Harvest: About 100 days
Rotation: Rotate chickpeas and other legumes to add nitrogen to the soil
Edible: Immature seed
Chickpeas
HUMMUS
I really couldn’t leave out a basic recipe for hummus. I’ve used the green variety both as an experiment and for St. Patrick’s Day. You can also use the standard cream color.
SERVES 4
1 pound fresh green chickpeas or
1 (15.5-ounce) can low-sodium chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon tahini
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, chopped
¼ teaspoon salt
¼-½ cup water4
Pinch cayenne
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
If using fresh chickpeas, steam them for 10 minutes until tender.
Place the chickpeas in a food processor or blender. Add the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, salt, water, and cayenne. Whiz until smooth. Scrape into a bowl and stir in the parsley. Serve with fresh cut-up vegetables or as a sandwich spread.
Per serving: 103 calories, 3 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 14 g carbohydrate, 5 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 404 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Starch, 1 Fat
ROASTED CHICKPEA SNACK
Quite the eye-catching and healthful snack, especially with green garbanzos, but you can always use the regular cream-colored variety.
SERVES 4
2 teaspoons olive oil
Pinch ground turmeric
Pinch cayenne
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon salt
1 pound fresh green chickpeas or 1 (15.5- ounce) can low-sodium chickpeas, rinsed and drained
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Combine the olive oil, turmeric, cayenne, lime juice, cumin, and salt in a bowl. Add the chickpeas and toss to coat.
Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake 30 minutes for fresh and 15 minutes for canned or until chickpeas are slightly crunchy. Cool and serve.
Per serving: 148 calories, 4 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 24 g carbohydrate, 4 g protein, 5 g dietary fiber, 456 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1½ Starch, ½ Fat
UPSIDE-DOWN CHICKPEA PIE
Let’s assume for a moment that you have taken the plunge and decided for a season to eat in a vegan or vegetarian manner. You want to try a relatively elaborate concoction, just to see what it entails and if it’s worth the effort. This could be your experiment.
SERVES 4
teaspoon saffron powder
¼ cup water
1 cup long-grain white rice
1 teaspoon nonaromatic olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped (yield 1 cup)
2 garlic cloves, bashed and chopped
1 small (2-3 inches) eggplant, peeled and cut into ¾-inch pieces
¾ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
teaspoon ground cinnamon
teaspoon ground cloves
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon almond extract
1 pound fresh chickpeas
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
4 ounces toasted almonds
2 cups low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh spearmint
Stir the saffron into the water to dissolve. Add the rice, mix well, and set aside.
Heat ½ teaspoon of the oil in a high-sided skillet over medium-high. Sauté the onion for 5 minutes, then stir in the garlic and eggplant. Add the cumin, allspice, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, salt, black pepper, and almond extract. Continue cooking for 3 more minutes, then remove to a plate to keep warm.
Heat the remaining oil in the same pan without washing it. When it’s nice and hot, add the chickpeas and toss well for 2 minutes. When browned, return the eggplant mixture to the pan, add the lemon juice, and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the toasted almonds.
Spread the mixture evenly in a greased 10-inch nonstick skillet. Cover with the rice mixture and pour 1½ cups of the stock over the top. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook 10 minutes. Remove the cover and shake the pan to make sure the vegetables are not sticking Press the uncooked rice down into the liquid, adding more stock as you need it. Place the lid back on and cook 15 more minutes or until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed.
Cover the pan with a serving plate and turn it over carefully. The pie should slip right out. Combine the parsley and mint and scatter over the top. Cut into 4 wedges and serve on hot plates.
Per serving: 397 calories, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat (3% calories from saturated fat), 78 g carbohydrate, 15 g protein, 13 g dietary fiber, 449 mg sodium. Exchanges: 3½ Starch, 2 Vegetable, 1 Fat
Chiles
Capsicumfrutescens
My wife, Treena, is known for her almost asbestos palate that can withstand a vindaloo (Indian curry) of equal heat to that enjoyed by the late king of Norway, who, like us, frequented Veeraswamy in Swallow Street just off Piccadilly Circus in London.
It’s because of the difference between my pallid palate and her robust one that I’m grateful to good old Wilbur Scoville, who recruited a gallant band of volunteers to rub cut chiles on the soft inside of their lips and use numbers to describe what can only be called pain.
Recent research suggests that nerve endings gradually adjust to this P Factor (the initial used to denote pain), allowing the consumer to slowly ascend the Scoville Scale as their nerve endings become deadened—or should I say killed off?
Curiously, there are more recorded benefits to human health than ills. Chiles actually seem to assist digestion in some people, but not all. It is best to seek advice on its use before you endure the cure!
Hot peppers will need an indoor start, usually 2 months before the last frost. They grow well in fiber-constructed egg cartons set in a shallow tray, which allows the bottoms to stay wet.
It’s important to transfer the young seedlings to 2-inch square pots, where their roots have the space to develop. I left mine indoors until about 5 inches tall. I then set them out next to my tomatoes and gave them 15 inches of clear space around. I was given a couple of apparently good tips. Since peppers love magnesium, just sprinkle 1 teaspoonful around the base of each plant. And, before harvesting, stop the water, because dry conditions will boost the spiciness.
The soil temperature needs to be above 60ºF before you trans
plant. It’s a great idea to invest a few dollars in a garden probe thermometer to ensure that you don’t jump the gun!
You’ll find that the plants will thrive at daytime temperatures above 70ºF and nights at 60ºF. Should it get any lower, you may need to use a lightweight fabric row cover held above the plants by wire hoops, as cold weather causes the blooms to drop off. No bloom, no peppers!
When harvesting, use disposable gloves, as the capsaicin can get in your eyes, and it’s painful!
The Numbers
For each 100 g raw (3.5 oz; ½ cup): 40 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 9 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 7 mg sodium
Chiles
Annual/Perennial (in tropical climates)
Water: Moderate, but less when fruited; by restricting water, you can increase spice/heat
Sun: Full
Companion Planting:
PRO: Basil, eggplant, onions, tomatoes
CON: Fennel, kohlrabi
Pests: Aphids, snails, slugs, weevils
Diseases: Rot, mildew, leaf spot
Soil: Light, well-drained soil
Fertilizer: Magnesium needed (1 teaspoon Epsom salts around each plant base); medium to heavy feeder; fish emulsion at flowering and 2-3 times during the plant’s life
pH: 5.5-6.8
Varieties: Anaheim (green to read, very mild), cayenne, sweet cayenne, Jimmy Nardello (hot: 10,000 SU), chiltepin, chile piquin (very hot: 50,000+ SU), jalapeño, Mucho Nacho (green to red, 5,000-10,000 SU), habanero, Jamaican Hot Chocolate (extremely hot: 100,000-500,000 SU)
Planting: Indoors, seed ¼-½ inch deep, 8 weeks before last frost; outdoors, transplant when soil is 55ºF, space 15 inches apart
Germination: 7-10 days
Harvest: From seed, 60-90 days
Rotation: Do not follow eggplant, tomato, or potato
Edible: Pod and seeds
STUFFED MILD CHILES
A really unusual appetizer, these peppers are just enough to whet the appetite and start a conversation. If they look a bit lonely on the plate, garnish with some fresh arugula.
SERVES 4
2 mild chile peppers, such as Anaheim
½ teaspoon olive oil
½ cup chopped onion
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
1 garlic clove, chopped
½ cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
2 cups chopped Swiss chard or spinach
½ cup low-sodium salsa
⅓ cup grated reduced-fat Monterey jack cheese
1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons bread crumbs, fresh or panko
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 bunch arugula (optional garnish)
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Grease a small baking sheet.
Cut the chiles in half lengthwise and remove the seeds and ribs.
Heat the oil in a medium skillet and sauté the onions with the cumin 5 minutes until soft and translucent but not brown. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Stir in the corn, Swiss chard, and salsa. Remove from the heat and stir in the Monterey jack cheese.
Combine the Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs in a small bowl.
Divide the vegetable mixture among the halved peppers, top with the Parmesan mixture, and dust with paprika. Place the chiles in the prepared baking sheet and bake 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and the top is golden. Garnish the serving plates with the arugula if desired.
Per serving (½ chile): 136 calories, 3 g fat, 2 g saturated fat (13% calories from saturated fat), 21 g carbohydrate, 7 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 340 mg sodium. Exchanges: ½ Starch, 1 Lean Meat, 1½ Vegetable
CHILIQUILES
This is a good way to immerse yourself in an all-in-one feast from the garden. Caution: Since the carbohydrates are perhaps on the high side, if you have a special need, simply reduce the amount of tortillas by half and keep the extra sauce for another meal.
I’ve used canned chipotle chiles (smoked jalapeños) for their added flavor, but you can use fresh Anaheim for a milder, crisper finish.
SERVES 4
10 (8-inch) corn tortillas
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice
2 pounds Roma tomatoes, peeled, skinned, seeded, and diced
2 canned chipotle chiles, rinsed and seeded
(if you like it blistering hot, leave the seeds)
½ teaspoon nonaromatic olive oil
1 large sweet onion, cut into ¼-inch dice
3 garlic cloves, bashed and chopped
2 cups low-sodium vegetable stock (see page 288)
¼ teaspoon salt
FOR THE GARNISH
½ cup low-fat plain yogurt
1½ cups shredded cooked chicken
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
To make tortilla chips, preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray two baking sheets with cooking spray.
Stack the tortillas and cut into eighths. Lay out the tortilla wedges in one layer in the prepared baking sheets. Lightly spray the tops with cooking spray and bake 15-20 minutes or until crisp. Set aside.
Drain the tomatoes, reserving the liquid. Place all the tomatoes in a blender with the chipotles and whiz until pureed but with some texture.
Heat the oil in a large high-sided chef’s pan or skillet over medium. Sauté half the onions about 7 minutes until golden. Stir in the garlic and cook another minute. Raise to medium-high heat and pour in the tomato mixture. Cook, stirring often, 5 minutes until the sauce thickens and starts to spatter. Pour the reserved tomato juice into a measuring cup and add stock to make 2½ cups. Add to the skillet along with the salt and bring to a boil. You should have 4½ cups sauce. Stir in the tortilla chips, making sure each one is coated with sauce. Bring back to a boil and then remove from the heat. Cover and let stand 5 minutes—no more!
Divide among 4 hot plates and top with the remaining onions, yogurt, chicken, Parmesan cheese, and cilantro. The dish can also be served directly from the skillet, topped attractively with the garnish.
Per serving: 432 calories, 9 g fat, 3 g saturated fat (7% calories from saturated fat), 64 g carbohydrate, 28 g protein, 9 g dietary fiber, 933 mg sodium. Exchanges: 3 Starch, 2 Lean Meat, 2 Vegetable, ½ Fat
Collards
Brassica oleracea var. acephala
About the time that Robin Hood was living rough in Sherwood Forest, the local villagers who sustained him and his merry men may well have grown coleworts as part of his supply chain!
Coleworts are really collards, or perhaps that’s backward? They are the same loose-leafed cabbage—all dark green leaves with no head formation.
Much like cabbages, collards are always sown outdoors when the soil reaches 60ºF. Be careful to sow lightly; you can mix the seeds with sand to spread them out more easily. As they grow, keep thinning them out. Eventually, the really sturdy ones will need 18 inches of clearance all around. Keep harvesting the larger outer leaves before they get over 20 inches long by pruning them off carefully, leaving the central bud untouched. You can plant as late as autumn for a winter crop because they like a light frosting, but use a row cover if it gets seriously cold.
Unfortunately, these greens have been subjected to overcooking for generations in the South, where they accompany such all-time greats as black-eyed peas and hoppin’ John.
I suspect that the idea may have started with the intention of softening the very tough (in the matured plant) stalks, but by the time that happens, the leaf is rendered into a kind of succulent, highly flavored fibrous custard that looks as though a squad of Marines had washed out their fatigues in the pot.
I love the texture and flavor that can be achieved when the stalks are fully removed before the leaves hit the pot, and the brilliant green is retained by less cooking time.
The Southern custom of adding lemon juice and cayenne is a fine idea and makes the adventure a real triumph.
The Numbers
There is a mode
rate to high supply of oxalate, which may promote kidney stones, and goitrogens, which affect the thyroid. The concentration of both is reduced by cooking.
For each 100 g raw (3.5 oz; 1 cup): 30 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 6 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 20 mg sodium
Collards
Biennial/Annual/Hardy/Cool Season
Water: Moderate
Sun: Full
Companion Planting:
PRO: tomatoes, peppers
CON: Celery, potatoes, cabbages
Pests: Aphids, loopers, worms, flea beetles
Diseases: Rotate beds to avoid common diseases
Soil : Medium-light soil, well dug in before planting
Fertilizer: Compost well; fish emulsion every 3-4 weeks
pH: 5.5-6.8
Varieties : Champion, Vates
Zones: 3 and warmer
Planting: Seed ¼-½ inch deep, 4 weeks before last frost; plant out 2 inches and thin progressively to 16 inches
Germinate: 10 days
Harvest: 60-90 days
Rotation: Don’t follow cabbage family, as diseases can easily follow
Edible: Leaves
STEAMED COLLARDS
Just in case you missed it, I really must repeat the absolute need to strip the leaves from the very tough stalks. You can mature the stalks in the refrigerator for 3-4 days to tenderize them for faster steaming and use in a later dish.
SERVES 4
1 pound collards
¼ teaspoon dried basil
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper or
¼ teaspoon cayenne
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ teaspoon salt
Wash the collards and remove the heavy stems. Pile a few of the leaves on top of each other, roll into a cylinder, and cut across into strips. Repeat with the rest.