by Lisa Cohen
“look[ing] perfect in…pink”: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, February 21, 1926, CBD.
“patterned jumper [sweater]…forth”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.
“put the gramophone on and danced”: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.
“whole school of Paris artistes-decorateurs”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.
“both Bohemian and…feminine”: Madge Garland, “The World of Marie Laurencin,” The Saturday Book 23, John Hadfield, ed. (London: Hutchinson, 1963), 46.
“costumes for ‘Les’…designs”: Charlotte Gere, Marie Laurencin (London: Academy, 1977), 23.
“both modern and exquisite”: Sarah Stacey to author, interview, London, December 7, 1997.
“in her espadrilles…bistro”: Garland, “The World of Marie Laurencin,” 59.
“frock consciousness”: Woolf, Diary, Monday, April 27 [1925], 3:12.
her frequent despair: See Lisa Cohen, “‘Frock Consciousness’: Virginia Woolf, the Open Secret, and the Language of Fashion,” Fashion Theory, vol. 3, no. 2 (May 1999): 149–74.
“I have been…it”: Woolf, Diary, April 27 [1925], 3: 12–13.
“My love of…discover”: Woolf, Diary, Thursday, May 14 [1925], 3:21.
“knew that she…was”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979.
“So there is…outfit”: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.
“a very beautiful…head”: Garland, in Noble, Recollections, 171.
“hilarious conversation about corsets”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.
Diary, 2:319.
“the ethics of…Vogue”: Virgina Woolf to Jacques Raverat, January 24, 1925, The Letters of Virginia Woolf, vol. 3, 1923–1928, 6 vols., Nigel Nicholson and Joanne Trautmann, eds. (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1977), 154.
“Why,” she wrote…“Toddery?”: Virginia Woolf to Vanessa Bell, Saturday May 25 [1928], Woolf, Letters, 3:502.
“perhaps worse than…petticoats”: Virginia Woolf to Logan Pearsall Smith, Wednesday, [January 28, 1928], Woolf, Letters, 3:158.
“And whats [sic]…Sup”: Virginia Woolf to Vita Sackville-West, Tuesday, September 1, 1925, Woolf, Letters, 3:200.
“I want as…wit”: Woolf, Diary, Sunday, April 19 [1925], 3:9.
“The New Dress”: Virginia Woolf, “The New Dress,” in The Complete Shorter Fiction of Virginia Woolf (New York: Harcourt, Brace, 1989, 1985), 170–77. All quotations of this story are from this edition.
“Vogue is going…public”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, Thursday, June 28 [1923].
“naturally of a…out”: Chase, Always in Vogue, 152.
“the publisher, the…it”: Carolyn Seebohm, The Man Who Was Vogue: The Life and Times of Condé Nast (New York: Viking, 1982), 80–81.
“The world was…dressmakers”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.
“difficult to find…fraught”: Madge Garland, “Condé Charm,” review of The Man Who Was Vogue, Financial Times, September 11, 1982, 10.
“Miss McHarg (Mrs…. required”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, Monday, September 13, [1926].
“end on the…Nast”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, Sunday, November 14, [1926].
“This affair has…rupture”: Vita Sackville-West to Harold Nicholson, September 24, 1926, quoted in Seebohm, The Man Who Was Vogue, 128.
“It is said…action”: Virginia Woolf to Vanessa Bell [end of September 1926], Woolf, Letters, 3:295.
“So poor Todd…order”: Vita Sackville-West to Harold Nicholson, September 24, 1926, quoted in Seebohm, The Man Who Was Vogue, 127–28.
“immediately…representative”: Seebohm, The Man Who Was Vogue, 130.
“The lady [Dody]…formula”: Chase, Always in Vogue, 152–53.
“in the days…contract”: Garland, “Condé Charm.”
“that filthy Editor…bit”: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, January 10 [1926]; Wednesday, October 20 [1925], CBD.
“Miss Todd the…Garland”: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Thursday, April 8 [1926], CBD.
“a brilliant evocation…youth”: Quoted in Julie Kavanaugh, Secret Muses: The Life of Frederick Ashton (New York: Pantheon, 1996), 72.
“both looking very…dressed”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, Sunday, November 14 [1926].
“to be Vogue, only quarterly”: Virginia Woolf to Vanessa Bell, Tuesday, February 21, 1928, Woolf, Letters, 3:463.
“trying hard to…pictorial”: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, October 31 [1926], CBD.
“a black toque…dress”: Cecil Beaton to his sisters, January 14, 1927, quoted in Vickers, Cecil Beaton, 89.
“I wanted to…flower”: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Thursday, October 21, 1926, CBD.
“Todd was a…normal”: Cecil Beaton, unpublished diaries, Sunday, November 7, 1926, CBD.
“rows in front…hours”: Chloe Tyner to author, telephone interview, May 19, 1997.
“in a state…tearful”: Chloe Tyner to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, April 2, 1991.
“like some primeval…hirsute”: Woolf, Diary, Saturday, February 18 [1928], 3: 175–76.
“The Todd ménage…ends”: Virginia Woolf to Vanessa Bell, Saturday, May 25 [1928], Woolf, Letters, 3:501.
“Todd’s room; rather…Garland”: Woolf, Diary, Thursday, May 31 [1928], 3:184.
“She had been…awful”: MG to Hilary Spurling, conversation, London, March 29, 1989.
“I had never…remained”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
TO REMAKE MY CAREER
“Dody went downhill…charming”: Chloe Tyner to author, telephone interview, May 19, 1997.
“it was much…London”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“almost anywhere”: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.
“miserable meals…eyes”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“One night we…flat”: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.
“sober habit…women”: Iris Tree, in ed. Simon Fleet, Sophie Fedorovitch: Tributes and Attributes; Aspects of Her Art and Personality by Some of Her Fellow Artists and Friends (Bolton, printed for private circulation, 1955), 14.
“feeling for ethereal…stage”: Maude Lloyd, in ibid., 44.
“my greatest artistic…adviser”: Kavanaugh, Secret Muses, 73.
“drinking tea and…hours”: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.
“the early beginnings”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“way of life and dress”: Ibid.
Illustrated Newspapers Group: Their other papers included The Illustrated London News, Tatler, and The Sphere.
“I can and I will”: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.
“Madge’s two old…bed”: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.
“what are called women’s interests”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“knitting, and babies…saucepan”: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.
“such a challenge”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“I lived the fullest life”: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986.
“always very elegant…soignée”: Anne Scott-James to author, interview, London, December 9, 1997.
“always in a hat”: David Sassoon to author, interview, London, September 22, 1997.
“I thought I…not!”: “Madge” [by Natasha Ledwidge], n.d., MGP.
“Dark brown is…blue”: “Madge Garland Writes a Forecast of Fashion,” The Bystander, January 6, 1932, 35.
“Pink and brown…shades”: Madge Garland, “New Ways with Woollens,” The Bystander, May 4, 1932, 230.
“Sports clothes favour…divided”: “Madge Garland Writes a Forecast of Fashion,” 35.
“For evening wraps…gowns”: Madge Garland, “Madge Garland Brings Ba
ck News from Paris,” The Bystander, January 20, 1932, 133.
“copy of a…STOP”: Madge Garland, “A Telegram from Paris,” Britannia and Eve, March 1930, 76.
“Don’t you think…bustle?”: Madge Garland, “A Fashion Questionnaire: A Few Pertinent Remarks on the High-lights of the 1931–1932 Winter Fashions,” Britannia and Eve, November 1931, 54. She used this form several years before Diana Vreeland’s “Why Don’t You” column in Harper’s. In fact, she and Vreeland knew each other when Vreeland lived in London and ran a lingerie shop in the early 1930s.
“Which Would You…Tulle?”: Madge Garland, “News and Novelties,” The Bystander, October 5, 1932, 34–35.
“A long dress…it”: Gertrude Stein, “Tender Buttons,” Writings 1903–1932 (New York: Library of America, 1998), 318.
“Practice measurement, practice…accentuation”: Stein, “Tender Buttons,” 319.
“Looking is not…clothing”: Stein, “Portrait of Mabel Dodge at Villa Curiona,” Writings 1903–1932, 357.
“For this is so. Because”: Stein, “If I Told Him: A Completed Portrait of Picasso,” Writings 1903–1932, 506.
“Velvet is Very Important”: Madge Garland, The Bystander, September 21, 1932, 561.
“The ANGLE of…important”: Garland, “Madge Garland Brings Back News from Paris,” 130–31.
“This insistence on…importance”: Madge Garland, “What I Saw in Paris,” Britannia and Eve, April 1930, 74.
“Importance is given…gaillac”: Madge Garland, “A Letter from Paris: Autumn 1933,” Britannia and Eve, October 1933, 63.
“There is a…frivolous”: Mary Graham [Madge Garland], “The Psychology of Dress,” Britannia and Eve, December 1930, 87. I have found no other trace of Graham, so I attribute the article to Madge, whose initials she shares.
“it is the…‘trivial’”: Virginia Woolf, A Room of One’s Own (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1989 [1929]), 73–74.
“the desire to…individual”: Graham [Garland], “The Psychology of Dress,” 87.
“It is a…house”: Madge Garland, “This Fashion Business,” Britannia and Eve, November 1930, 140.
“A huge modern…lamé”: Garland, “Letter from Paris, Autumn, 1933,” 9, 60, 86.
“madly jealous of…hell”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, July 2, 1980, IAP.
She remained in France: “England was unsuitable for their chosen way of life,” as Wyld’s niece put it. Biddy Kay to Isabelle Anscombe, n.d, IAP.
“always set her…belts”: Ibid.
“the most austere…materials”: Madge Garland, “Interiors by Eyre de Lanux,” The Studio (1930): 263–65, 265.
“was radical in…day”: Isabelle Anscombe, A Woman’s Touch, 121, 128.
“the grain of…banal”: Garland, “Interiors by Eyre de Lanux,” 265.
“grew up in…living”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, July 2, 1980, IAP. Like Esther Murphy, Madge lost many friends of the 1920s to opium and other addictions; she believed that she had never succumbed to drugs because she had to support herself.
“Give Madge what she wants”: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, conversation, London, n.d.
“toadied to in…princesses”: Garland, Fashion, 100.
“You will go far”: “Madge Garland,” obituary, Telegraph, July 17, 1980, MGP.
“the rôle of merchandise-stylist”: Garland, Fashion, 105–6.
“looked on with…criticism”: Ibid.
“be the pivot…idea”: Ibid., 106.
“deals with the…stores”: Jane Mulvagh, Vogue Fashion History of 20th Century, foreword by Valerie D. Mendes (London: Viking, 1988), 185.
“Selfridges or Harrods…wherever”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“was the chicest…lot”: Virginia Nicholson to author, telephone interview, May 26, 1998.
“antennae”: Anne Scott-James to author, interview, London, 9 December 1997.
“bitterly anti-Garland…so”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, September 2, 1935.
“much more boring…reliable”: Anne Scott-James to author, interview, London, December 9, 1997.
“people who happened…homosexual”: Jennifer Beattie to author, interview, London, December 9, 1997.
“Claire [sic] Luce…star”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, June 19 [1937].
“and have cocktails…host”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, Saturday July 8 [1939].
“straight skirt, nice…spectacular”: Jennifer Beattie to author, interview, London, December 9, 1997.
“sorting out everyone’s…own”: Patricia Laffan to author, interview, London, March 21, 1998.
“She had no…irony”: Patrick Woodcock to author, interview, London, January 25, 2002.
“a very complex…difficult”: Sybille Bedford to author, telephone conversation, January 8, 2003.
“quarreled…bitterly”: Sybille Bedford to author, interview, London, December 7, 1997.
“In a match…winning”: Francis King to author, interview, London, March 21, 1998.
“Here comes that…Garland”: Patricia Laffan to author, interview, London, March 21, 1998.
“until we see…war”: Harry Yoxall to Condé Nast, November 4, 1938, CNA.
“The clothes were…future”: Madge Garland, “Introduction,” Fashion, 1900–1939, Scottish Arts Council and Victoria and Albert Museum (London: Idea, 1975), 8.
“The cost of…so”: Harry Yoxall to Condé Nast, September 28, 1939, CNA.
“reckless in the…met”: Sybille Bedford, Aldous Huxley (New York: Carroll and Graf, 1985 [1973, 1974]), 308.
“low in the…stress”: Harry Yoxall to Condé Nast, October 11, 1939, CNA.
“turned up trumps…brighter”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, September 26, 1939.
“It was a…well”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, December 29, 1939.
“to get rid of Madge”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, October 31, 1939.
“fundamentally artificial approach…conservatism”: Elizabeth Penrose to Harry Yoxall, November 2, 1939, CNA.
“contact with the…clothes”: Condé Nast to Edna Woolman Chase, November 30, 1939, CNA.
“difficult situation,” wrote…“but…”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, October 31, 1939.
“There are to…anguish”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, January 2, 1940.
“swansong…trip”: Harry Yoxall, unpublished diaries, February 6, 1940.
“Then once again…friends”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“children’s socks, or…thing”: MG to Flora Groult, interview, London, July 26, 1986. Betty Penrose had also complained that Madge had no “practical, promotional sense,” no “merchandising sense.” “If I were a merchant looking for a sound fashion director,” she wrote to Harry Yoxall, “Mrs. Garland would be the last person I would choose.” Stafford Bourne had other ideas.
“such trivial matters…moment”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
Britain was far behind…: When British industry groups finally developed a sizing code derived from systematic measurements of the population, beginning in the 1960s, manufacturers still resisted using it.
“a series of…etc.)”: Garland, Fashion, 65.
“the right type…size”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“began to dabble in design”: Glynn, “50 Years On.”
“through shattered streets…glass”: Vera Brittain, Testament of Experience: An Autobiographical Story of the Years 1925–1950 (New York: Macmillan, 1957), 266.
“I don’t know…all”: MG to Gerald McHarg, June 2 [1941], MHFP.
“One can only…done”: Ibid.
“nowadays one only…seen”: MG to Gerald McHarg, n.d. [postmarked March 12, 1942; received June 10, 1942], MHFP.
“to restrict the…trimmings”: Garland, Fashion, 61.
“coupons, clothes, style…B. o. T.”: MG to Gerald McHarg, June 3, [1942], MHFP.
“I never thought…it”: MG to Shaunagh Ward-Jackson, con
versation, London, n.d.
“He had more…together”: MG to Hugo Vickers, interview, London, March 8, 1980.
“It was always…match”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.
“were backward in…fashion”: Garland, Fashion, 61.
“died a quick…war”: MG to Isabelle Anscombe, interview, London, October 8, 1979, IAP.
“Uncertainty with regard…acute”: MG to Gerald McHarg, November 9, [1941], MHFP.
“in the abstract…it”: Violet Powell to Hilary Spurling, conversation, Somerset, January 2002.
“very badly blitzed…disaster”: MG to Gerald McHarg, September 30 [1944], MHFP.
“planes in hundreds…wheels”: Janet Flanner to Solita Solano, November 15, 1944, JFP.
“The streets were…nothing”: Jane Heap to Florence Reynolds, Holly A. Baggett, ed., Dear Tiny Heart: The Letters of Jane Heap and Florence Reynolds (New York: New York University Press, 2000), 136–37.
“enough to live…resources”: MG to Gerald McHarg, September 30, [1944], MHFP.
“with rockets and sirens around”: MG to Gerald McHarg, November 28, 1944, MHFP.
“so that I…occasions”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“the greyness of London”: Ibid.
“pretty and gay…‘transformed’”: Quoted in Bedford, Aldous Huxley, 442.
“Talked with Madge…rugs”: Hedda Hopper “Looking at Hollywood,” Los Angeles Times, June 25, 1945, A2.
“where I expect…day”: MG memoir drafts, MGP.
“colorful, impudently gay…America”: “Dress Reformer,” MGP.
“this poverty stricken island”: MG to Gerald McHarg, November 16 [1947], MHFP.
“I have a…it”: MG to Gerald McHarg, June 19, 1946, MHFP.
“icy…With the…everywhere”: MG to Gerald McHarg, January 25 [1947], MHFP.
“epic: fourteen hours…horrible”: MG to Gerald McHarg, n.d. [1946], MHFP.
“the clothes in…interesting”: Ibid.
“to set up…center”: Women’s Wear Daily, September 5, 1947, MGP.
“to remake my…up)”: MG to Gerald McHarg, June 19, 1946, MHFP.
“in the thick…do”: MG to Gerald McHarg, September 18, 1947, MHFP.
PROFESSOR OF FASHION
“as soft and easy…gloves”: Quoted in www.exero.com/mastergate/secured/fashion/ferragammo.htm.