The House by the Thames

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by Gillian Tindall


  O’Connell, Sheila, London 1753, British Museum Press, 2003

  Olsen, Donald J., The Growth of Victorian London, 1976

  Orrell, John, The Quest for Shakespeare’s Globe, Cambridge, 1983

  Pepys, Samuel, Diary, edited by Robert Latham and William Matthews, 1970

  Picard, Liza, Restoration London, 1997

  Pierce, Patricia, Old London Bridge, 2001

  Pike, E. Royston, Human Documents of the Industrial Revolution in Britain, 1966

  —— Human Documents of the Victorian Golden Age, 1967

  —— Human Documents of the Age of the Forsytes, 1969

  —— Human Documents of the Lloyd George Era, 1972

  Platter, Thomas and Busino, Horatio, The Journals of Two Travellers in Elizabethan and Early Stuart England, Ipswich, 1995

  Porter, Stephen, The Great Fire of London, Stroud, Glos., 1996

  —— The Great Plague, Stroud, Glos., 1999

  Pritchett, V. S., London Perceived, 1962

  —— A Cab at the Door, 1968

  Pudney, John, Crossing London’s River, 1972

  —— London’s Docks, 1975

  Reilly, Leonard, Southwark: an Illustrated History, London Borough of Southwark, 1998

  —— and Marshall, Geoffrey, The Story of Bankside, London Borough of Southwark, 2001

  Rendle, William, The Inns of Old Southwark, 1888

  Richardson, A. E., ‘London Re-Planned: The Royal Academy Planning Committee’s Interim Report’, Country Life, 1942

  Richardson, Rev. J., Recollections of the Last Half Century, 1855

  Rudé, George, Hanoverian London 1714–1808, 1971

  Sabaag, Karl, Power into Art, 2000

  Saint, Andrew, ‘The Building Art of the First Industrial Metropolis 1784–1873’, chapter in London – World City 1800–1840 edited by Celina Fox, Yale, 1992

  Sala, George Augustus, Gas and Daylight, 1859

  Schwartz, L. D., London in the Age of Industrialization: Entrepreneurs, labour force and living conditions 1700–1850, 1992

  Seymour, Claire, Ragged Schools, Ragged Children, Ragged School Museum Trust, 1995

  Shelley, Henry C., Inns and Taverns of Old London, 1909

  Shepherd, Thomas, London in the Nineteenth Century, 1829

  Sims, George R., editor, Living London, 1901–2

  Spalding, Frances, The Tate: a History, 1998

  Spence, Craig, Atlas of 1690s London, 2000

  Stamp, Gavin, The Changing Metropolis, Earliest Photographs of London 1839–1879, 1984

  —— ‘Giles Gilbert Scott and Bankside Power Station’, chapter in The Building of Tate Modern, 2000

  Stow, John, The Survey of London, 1598

  Tames, Richard, Southwark Past, 2001

  Waller, Maureen, 1700: Scenes from London Life, 1988

  Wagner, Gillian, Barnardo, 1979

  Weinreb, Ben and Hibbert, Christopher, editors, The London Encyclopaedia, 1983

  White, H. P., A Regional History of the Railways of Great Britain, Vol. III, 1969

  Worsthorne, Peregrine, Tricks of Memory, 1995

  Wright, Lawrence, Clean and Decent: The fascinating History of the Bathroom and the WC, 1960

  Unpublished and other archival Sources

  The London Borough of Southwark has a rich collection of archival material amassed over many years, thanks to bequests from several nineteenth-century antiquarians but also to the initiative and care of individual archivists. In the Southwark Local History Library, therefore, I have been able to consult Census returns; St Saviour’s parish records of marriages, baptisms and burials (from 1653 to 1835, with a few gaps); Rate books (from 1748); and a collection of miscellaneous house Deeds. I have been able to consult London Street Directories (various different publications) from 1790 onwards, and the Electoral registers for the twentieth century for which the Census returns are not yet accessible. I have also availed myself of the Library’s extensive files of cuttings, photographs, handbills, advertisements, correspondence and other ephemera, dating from the eighteenth century to the present day; also of the MS. book on the early history of the Union Street parochial schools compiled by Sylvia Morris, the present head of the Cathedral School of St Saviour and St Mary Overy; also of the Archivist’s own extensive list of Southwark’s one-time cemeteries. I have studied the Library’s collection of maps, especially insurance maps for the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. I have also made use of the microfilms of the South London Press, especially for the 1860s and ’70s.

  In The Family History Centre, London EC1, I have obtained various Death Certificates and Probate records referred to in this book.

  In The Metropolitan Archives, London EC1 I have been able to consult further documents relating to Bankside, in particular the Vestry Minutes books of St Saviour’s parish from 1670 to 1738, and from 1788 to 1824, also a parish Land Valuation of 1807–8. I have made extensive use of their collection of Metropolitan Board of Works archives, expecially the papers of 1856–7 and 1861–3 and 1867 relating to Bazalgette’s plans for the London sewer system, and also the Thames Flood Prevention Maps of 1880–86. Also their files relating to the life and work of John Grooms. I have availed myself of the Library’s copies of the 1945 Bomb Damage Maps, and of their extensive photographic collection, originally in the possession of the Greater London Council.

  In The British Library, as well as consulting many of the printed books cited in the preceding section, I have been able to work my way, in the Rare Book Room, through two volumes entitled St Saviour’s Illustrated: History and Antiquities of the Parochial Church of St Saviour’s, Southwark. These are compendiums of printed church records and engravings to which have been added notes, memos, plans, pamphlets, letters, handbills, photos and press-cuttings. The initial volume was compiled for subscription circulation by W.G. Moss and the Rev. J. Nightingale in 1818, and the much-expanded second volume was produced by W. Taylor in 1840. (Unamplified, printed-only versions of both volumes are in the possession of the Southwark Local History Library.)

  In The London Library I have consulted bound volumes of The Builder and The Times, particularly for the 1860s.

  In The Guildhall Library I have been able to consult the records of the Watermen and Lightermens’ Company, and also to make use of the Picture Library’s extensive collection of London paintings, prints and panoramas.

  The Museum of London possesses, among very much else, a Grace Golden Archive of that artist’s prints, drawings and personal papers, which were made available to me.

  In addition, the present owners of 49 Bankside have inherited from previous occupants of the house a file of Deeds, a few letters and a number of twentieth-century newspaper cuttings, which have been put to good use.

  INDEX

  The page references in this index correspond to the printed edition from which this ebook was created. To find a specific word or phrase from the index, please use the search feature of your ebook reader.

  Abercrombie, Sir Patrick: London Plan, 208–9, 217, 229

  Admiral’s Men (theatre company), 34

  Agas map, 15–16, 26, 32

  Albert Embankment, Lambeth, 153

  Albion Flour Mills, Great Surrey Street, 101–2, 134–5, 221

  Albion Terrace, 102

  Alleyn, Edward, 34–5

  Anchor Brewery see Barclay Perkins

  Anchor Inn, 99, 181, 221

  Anne, Queen, 57–8

  Anne Boleyn, Queen of Henry VIII, 4

  Arnold, Matthew (lighterman), 84, 90

  Arnold, Matthew (poet), 174

  Arnold, Thomas (waterman), 89

  Arthur, Prince (Henry VIII’s brother), 4

  Arundel House, 47

  Arundel, Thomas Howard, 2nd Earl of, 27

  Astell (or Astill) family, 65, 81

  Aubrey, John, 6, 37, 45, 47

  Balcon, Michael, 201

  balloons see Smith’s balloon view of London

  Bandy Leg Walk (later Great Guildford St
reet), Southwark, 49, 88, 101

  Bankside: character, 2, 5, 8, 14–15, 110–11; flood works, 14, 57, 76; stairs and docking places, 14–16, 43, 100, 177; house-building, 17, 55–8, 61, 111; brothels, 20–5; theatres and playhouses, 30–5, 40, 45–6; trade and industries, 40, 48, 94, 141, 149, 178–81, 188–9; gardens, 49; processions, 51; early 18th-century house rebuilding and ownership, 54–5; drainage problems, 55; Nonconformists in, 56; schools, 56; quays and wharves, 120–1, 155; panoramas, 134–5; Bishop’s palace ruins, 136; gas works, 140, 155, 195; Power Station, 141, 195, 209–10, 215, 221, 228; house design and features, 147–9; health risks, 151; late 19th-century social changes, 166–7, 173–5; poverty and slums in, 167–70, 188, 193–5; multi-occupation of houses, 171–2; in Besant novel, 181–3; as working-class district, 187–8; Grace Golden draws and writes on, 189; twentieth-century occupants, 190–3; houses demolished, 192; last flood (1928), 196; post-war rebuilding and improvements, 210–12; post-war industrial and commercial decline, 218; modern usage, 230–1; see also Southwark

  Barclay family, 98

  Barclay Perkins (formerly Anchor brewery), 98, 102, 136, 220

  Barclay, Robert, 104, 118, 127

  Barge House stairs, 15

  Barnardo, Dr Thomas John, 186

  Bazalgette, Sir Joseph, 152

  Bear Garden, Southwark, 27, 32, 99

  Bear Inn, 50

  bear-baiting see bull- and bear-baiting

  Beaufort, Cardinal Henry, Bishop of Winchester, 18

  Beaumont, Francis, 37

  Benson, Revd J., 143

  Bermondsey: as borough, 9; trade and industry in, 94

  Berry-Godfrey, Sir Edmund, 72–3

  Besant, Walter, 181–3, 231

  Betjeman, Sir John, 79, 154, 201, 220

  bicycles, 177

  Black family, 214, 222–3

  Black, Daniel, 214–16, 222, 225

  Blacker, Robert, 134

  Blackfriars Bridge (earlier Pitt’s Bridge), 2, 26, 87, 90, 95, 100, 181

  Blackfriars Railway Bridge, 162

  Blake, William, 102

  Blue Circle Cement Company, 215, 221

  Boars Head Sluice, 87, 153

  Booth, Charles, 6, 187

  Borough High Street, 55, 69, 100

  Borough Market, 39, 91, 120, 163, 230

  Boswell, James, 6

  Boys’ Free School, Southwark, 113–14

  Brabazon, Reginald (later 12th Earl of Meath), 114–15

  brassware, 147

  brewing, 95–9

  Bridge House Estate, 194

  Briggs, Henry, 106

  Briggs, John Perronet, 106

  brothels, 19, 20–5

  Browker, Hugh, 17–19, 25, 29, 54

  Bruce, Mary and Sarah, 53, 64

  Buchanan, Jack, 201

  Builder, The (periodical), 149, 164, 209

  Building Acts (1667 and 1707), 54, 61

  bull- and bear-baiting, 31–2, 49

  Bunyan, John, 56

  Burbage, James, 33–4, 36, 45

  Burbage, Richard, 32–4, 36

  Burdett, Sir Francis, 145

  burial grounds see graveyards

  Burke, Edmund, 96

  Burney, Fanny (Mme d’Arblay), 96

  Cade, Jack, 23

  Calvert’s Corn Wharf, 102

  Camberwell, 109–10

  canals, 105–6

  Cardinal Cap Alley, 58, 88, 143, 179, 231

  Cardinal’s Cap (or Hat) Inn, 4, 17–19, 24, 27, 29–30, 35–7, 53–4

  Cardinal’s Wharf, Bankside, 177, 206–8

  Cardinal’s Wharf (house; 49 Bankside): site and origins, 3–4, 33, 54, 62; and fish ponds, 16; building design, 62–4, 68; furnishing and equipment, 67–8; living conditions in eighteenth century, 68–71; water supply, 70–1; Sells first occupies and purchases, 88–9; improvements to, 143–4, 150; nineteenth century occupants, 143, 150–3, 183–4; water closet, 146; as business address for Charrington, Sells, Dale & Surtees, 155, 171; Moss Isaacs occupies and buys, 155–7, 176; maintained as single-family home, 176–7; in multiple occupation, 183–4; unaffected by clearance scheme, 195; Robert E. Stevenson acquires and improves, 196–201; used for storage, 196; sold by auction, 203–4; bomb-damaged in war, 205, 207; post-war occupation, 214–15, 222; vandalised by squatters, 223–4; restored by Guy Munthe, 224–5; present-day occupation, 231–2

  Catherine of Aragon, Queen of Henry VIII, 4, 207, 211, 223

  Cator, John, 65, 81, 97

  Chadwick, Edwin, 149, 151

  Chamberlain’s Men (theatre company), 33

  Charles I, King, 40

  Charles II, King, 50, 52

  Charrington, John, 158–9

  Charrington, Sells, Dale & Co., 154

  Charrington, Thomas, 158–9

  Charringtons (brewers), 97, 159

  Charringtons (coal-merchants), 73, 85–6, 97, 140, 154, 158

  children: in eighteenth century London, 66; upbringing, 108–9; education, 125

  cholera, 145, 149–51

  Christ Church, Southwark, 55

  City Lead Works, 221

  City of London Electric Lighting Company, 183, 195

  Civil War (1642–6), 46, 48

  class (social): in eighteenth century, 65–7, 90; Victorian, 174–5

  Clink liberty, 103

  Clink Museum, Southwark, 13

  Clink, The (gaol), 12–13, 93

  coaches, 77, 132

  coal and coal trade, 70–6, 79, 105–6, 120–1, 139–40, 155, 159–60

  Coal Exchange, Lower Thames Street, 120

  Commonwealth, 47

  Concannen, M., Jr, 98

  Concannen, M., Jr and A. Morgan: The History and Antiquities of the Parish of St Saviour’s, Southwark, 102–3

  Cook, Captain James, 101

  Cooper (St Saviour’s sexton), 114

  Coram, Thomas, 90

  County Hall, Lambeth, 9, 229

  Craig & Rose (paint manufacturers), 192

  cripples: training and education, 186

  Cromwell, Oliver, 25, 47–8

  Crosby, Theo, 226, 228

  Cross Bones Burial Ground, 21, 51, 112–16

  Crown Wharf, 178

  Cruikshank, George, 151

  Crumpton, Edward and Annie, 203

  Crumpton, John, 203, 211

  Cubitt, Thomas, 145

  Cure’s College almshouses, 112, 163

  Dale, H.R., 158–9

  Darc, Rosie, 212

  Davidson, Geoffrey, 214, 222

  Davies (builder, of Union Street), 165

  Deadman’s Place, Southwark, 51, 111

  Dean, Mrs C., 191

  Defoe, Daniel, 51, 65, 77

  Dekker, Thomas, 24, 30, 45, 81

  Dickens, Charles, 6, 162, 167, 170, 185; Little Dorrit, 134; Our Mutual Friend, 170–1

  Dog and Duck tavern, St George’s Fields, 99–100

  Dowgate Dock, 82

  Drake, Sir Francis, 226

  Dubreuil, André, 225

  Dulwich College (Alleyn’s Gift), 34

  East India Company, 41

  East India Dock, 218

  Easter, Stephen, 197

  education (compulsory), 184, 186

  Edward II, King, 10

  Edward VI, King, 17, 24

  electricity, 141, 183–4

  Eliot, T.S., 232

  Elizabeth I, Queen, 14–15, 24

  Elliott family, 185, 190–1, 196

  Elliott, George, 185

  Elliott, Hughes & Easter Ltd (gum-merchants), 192, 197

  Elliott, Marion, 185–6

  Ellory, Mr, 157

  Embankment (Thames), 152, 162

  Evelyn, John, 6, 31, 48, 50, 73–5

  Faithorne, William, 49

  Falcon Dock, 195

  Falcon Glass Works, 75, 95

  Falcon Inn, 29, 36, 50, 77, 81

  Falcon Iron Works, 59, 75, 95

  Falcon Point, 221

  Fastolf, Sir John, 10

  Fell’s Flower Wharf, 102


  Festival of Britain (1951), 9, 208, 229

  Fielding, Sir John, 93

  Finch’s Grotto, Southwark, 100

  fish ponds, 15–18, 49

  Fleet ditch, 60

  Flemings: settle in Southwark, 22

  Fletcher, Geoffrey, 226

  Fletcher, John, 37–8

  Flood Prevention, 57, 76, 177

  Foster, Norman, Baron, 229

  Free Grammar School, Bankside, 57

  ‘Fresh Air Scheme’, 187

  Fritter, Melchisedeck, 30, 53, 62

  Frost Fairs, 117

  Fuce, Thomas, 120, 143

  furniture and interiors, 67, 75

  Gabb, Martha, 173–5

  Gardener, Urban, 176

  Garrick, David, 96

  Gas Light & Coke Company, 140

  gas-lighting, 140–2, 194

  George I, King, 58

  Gin Acts (1751 and 1753), 91

  Girtin, Thomas, 135

  Gladstone, William Ewart, 152

  glass industry, 40, 48, 75, 95

  Globe Theatre, Southwark: reconstructed, 3, 31–3, 226–8, 230; site, 27, 29; Burbages build, 34; Shakespeare and, 36; burnt and rebuilt, 45; abandoned, 48

  Globe Trust, 226–7

  Golden, Grace, 189, 193–5, 212, 230

  Golden Hind (replica ship), 226

  Gordon Riots (1780), 93

  Grand Junction Waterworks, 159

  Grand Union Canal, 105–6, 176

  grave-robbing, 111, 113–14

  Gravel Lane, Southwark, 49, 88

  graveyards, 20–1, 51, 111–15

  Great Fire (1666), 51–4, 60

  Great Guildford Street see Bandy Leg Walk

  Great Pike Garden, 15–16, 177; see also Pye Garden, the

  Great Plague (1665), 50–1

  Great Surrey Street, Southwark, 100–1

  Greater London Council (GLC), 219, 223; see also London County Council

  Greene, Mary, 53–4

  Grooms, John, 186

  Grove Hill, Camberwell, 109–10

  Guy’s Hospital, 11

  Harris, James, 104, 112

  Harrison, Revd L., 143

  Harvard, John, 39

  hat-making, 94–5, 185, 220

  Henry VII, King, 24

  Henry VIII, King, 12, 23, 25, 223

  Henslowe, Philip, 31, 34–5, 37, 46, 54, 147

  Hey (Workhouse Master), 123

  Hill, Octavia, 166

  Hill, Rowland (preacher), 101

  Hinton & Horne (firm), 177

  Hogarth, William, 90, 99

  Holditch brothers, 120, 157, 176

  Holditch, George, 150, 157

  Holditch, George Alfred, 157

 

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