by Ken Hom
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh root ginger
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions (white part only)
1½ tablespoons chilli bean sauce
1 tablespoon whole yellow bean sauce
2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon water
2 teaspoons chilli oil
1 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, deep-fry half the beans until slightly wrinkled, which should take about 3–4 minutes. Remove the beans and drain them. Deep-fry the second batch in the same way.
2 Transfer about 1 tablespoon of the oil in which you have cooked the beans to a clean wok or frying-pan. Heat the oil, then add the garlic, ginger and spring onions and stir-fry for 30 seconds.
3 Add all the rest of the ingredients except the green beans and stir-fry for 30 seconds.
4 Add the drained beans and mix until they are thoroughly coated with the spicy mixture. Serve as soon as the beans have heated through.
Chinese pancakes
These pancakes are the classic accompaniment to Peking Duck (see here) and Crispy Aromatic Duck (see here) and reflect the northern Chinese use of wheat instead of rice. They are easy to make once you get the knack, which comes with practice. The unusual method of rolling ‘double’ pancakes is designed to ensure thinner, moister pancakes with less risk of overcooking them. Since they can be frozen, wrapped tightly in clingfilm, it is possible to make them weeks ahead.
To reheat the pancakes, steam them briefly, or you could cover them tightly with clingfilm and microwave them – this takes only a minute. Don’t be tempted to reheat them in the oven as this will dry them out too much. When using pancakes that have been frozen, let them thaw in the refrigerator before reheating.
serves 6–8
preparation time: 40 minutes, plus 30 minutes’ resting the dough
cooking time: 20–30 minutes
275 g (10 oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
250 ml (8 fl oz) very hot water
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 Put the flour into a large bowl. Gradually stir in the hot water, mixing all the while with chopsticks or a fork until it is fully incorporated. Add more water if the mixture seems dry.
2 Turn the dough out and knead it with your hands for about 8 minutes or until it is smooth, dusting with flour if necessary, as it may be quite sticky at this point. Put the dough back into the bowl, cover it with a damp tea-towel and let it rest for about 30 minutes.
3 Remove the dough from the bowl and knead it again for about 5 minutes, dusting with a little flour if it is sticky. Once the dough is smooth, form it into a roll about 45 cm (18 in) long and 2.5 cm (1 in) thick. Cut the roll into 18 equal pieces and shape each one into a ball.
4 Take 2 of the dough balls. Dip one side of one ball into the sesame oil and place the oiled side on top of the other ball.
5 With a rolling pin, roll the 2 pancakes simultaneously into a circle about 15 cm (6 in) in diameter. You can flip the double pancake over and roll on the other side as well.
6 Heat a frying-pan or wok over a very low flame. Put the double pancake into the pan and cook it for 1–2 minutes, until it has dried underneath; there may be brown specks. Flip it over and cook the other side until dried as well.
7 Remove from the pan and let it cool slightly. When it is still warm, but cool enough to handle, peel the 2 pancakes apart and set them aside. Repeat this process until all the dough balls have been cooked.
Perfect steamed rice
The Chinese way of steaming rice is simple, direct and effective. I prefer to use long-grain white rice, which is dry and fluffy when cooked. Don’t use pre-cooked or ‘easy-cook’ rice as it lacks the texture and starchy taste fundamental to Chinese rice.
The secret of preparing rice without it becoming sticky is to cook it first in an uncovered pan at a high heat until most of the water has evaporated. Then the heat should be turned very low, the pan covered and the rice cooked slowly in the remaining steam. Never uncover the pan once the steaming process has begun; just time it and wait.
Here is a good trick to remember: if you cover the rice with about 2.5 cm (1 in) of water it should always cook properly without sticking. Many packet recipes for rice use too much water and result in a gluey mess. Follow my method and you will have perfect steamed rice, the easy Chinese way.
serves 4
preparation time: 20 minutes
cooking time: 20 minutes
Enough long-grain rice to fill a glass measuring jug to 400 ml (14 fl oz)
600 ml (1 pint) water
1 Put the rice into a large bowl and wash it in several changes of water until the water becomes clear.
2 Drain the rice. Put in a heavy pan with the 600 ml (1 pint) water and bring to the boil. Boil for about 5 minutes until most of the surface liquid has evaporated. The surface of the rice should have small indentations like a pitted crater.
3 At this point, cover the pan with a very tight-fitting lid, turn the heat as low as possible and let the rice cook undisturbed for 15 minutes. There is no need to ‘fluff’ the rice; just let it rest off the heat for 5 minutes before serving.
Egg-fried rice
Egg fried rice is common in Chinese restaurants and is probably the best-known Chinese dish in the West. The secret is to use cold cooked rice and a very hot wok. Remember that authentic fried rice should have a wonderful smoky taste, and should never be greasy or heavy.
serves 4
preparation time: 5 minutes
cooking time: 8 minutes
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons groundnut oil
1 quantity of Perfect steamed rice (see here), cooled completely
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
1 Put the eggs, sesame oil and half the salt in a small jug or bowl, mix with a fork and set aside.
2 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add the groundnut oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the cold cooked rice. Stir-fry for 3 minutes, or until it is thoroughly heated through.
3 Next drizzle in the egg and oil mixture and continue to stir-fry for 2–3 minutes or until the eggs have set and the mixture is dry.
4 Add the remaining salt and the pepper and stir-fry for 2 minutes longer, then toss in the spring onions. Stir several times, turn on to a platter and serve at once.
Chow mein
Chow mein literally means ‘stir-fried noodles’ and this dish is as popular in the West as it is in southern China. It is a quick and delicious way to prepare egg noodles. Almost any ingredient you like, such as fish, meat, poultry or vegetables, can be added to it. It makes a popular lunch dish, either served at the end of the meal or eaten by itself.
serves 4
preparation time: 10 minutes, plus 10 minutes’ marinating
cooking time: 20 minutes
225 g (8 oz) dried or fresh egg noodles
4 teaspoons sesame oil
100 g (4 oz) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into fine shreds 5 cm (2 in) long
2½ tablespoons groundnut oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
50 g (2 oz) mangetout, finely shredded
50 g (2 oz) Parma ham or cooked ham, finely shredded
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
½ teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions
For the marinade:
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
2 teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon sesame oil
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 Cook the noodles in a large pan of boiling water for 3–5 minutes, then drain and plunge them in cold water. Drain thoroughly, toss them with 3 teaspoons of the sesame oil and set aside.
2 Combine the chicken shreds with all the marinade ingredients, mix well and then leave to marinate for about 10 minutes.
3 Heat a wok over a high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the groundnut oil and, when it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the chicken shreds. Stir-fry for about 2 minutes and then transfer to a plate. Wipe the wok clean.
4 Reheat the wok until it is very hot, then add the remaining groundnut oil. When the oil is slightly smoking, add the garlic and stir-fry for 10 seconds. Then add the mangetout and ham and stir-fry for about 1 minute.
5 Add the noodles, soy sauces, rice wine or sherry, salt, pepper, sugar and spring onions. Stir-fry for 2 minutes.
6 Return the chicken and any juices to the noodle mixture. Stir-fry for about 3–4 minutes or until the chicken is cooked.
7 Add the remaining sesame oil and give the mixture a few final stirs. Turn it on to a warm platter and serve at once.
Northern-style cold noodles
These savoury noodles are perfect for any meal or snack. They are quick and easy to make but if you wish to prepare them ahead of time, keep the sauce and noodles separate until the last possible moment.
serves 4
preparation time: 10 minutes
cooking time: 3–5 minutes
350 g (12 oz) dried or fresh egg noodles
2 tablespoons sesame oil
3 tablespoons finely chopped spring onions, to garnish
For the sauce:
3 tablespoons sesame paste or peanut butter
1½ tablespoons finely chopped garlic
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh root ginger
2 teaspoons chilli bean sauce
3 tablespoons Chinese white vinegar or cider vinegar
2 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons ground roasted Sichuan peppercorns (see here)
1 tablespoon groundnut oil
1½ tablespoons sesame oil
1 Cook the noodles in a large pan of boiling water for 3–5 minutes, then drain and plunge them in cold water.
2 Drain the noodles thoroughly and toss them with the sesame oil. Arrange them on a platter or in a large bowl.
3 The sauce can be made in advance and kept refrigerated, as it is served cold. Just mix all the ingredients together in a bowl or an electric blender.
4 When ready to serve, pour the sauce on top of the noodles and toss well, then garnish with the spring onions.
Singapore noodles
This is the ultimate Fusion noodle dish. Curry is not original to Chinese cuisine. It was introduced to China centuries ago by immigrants returning home from sojourns in Southeast Asia, especially from the east coast of India. This is why even today curry continues to be popular in southern and eastern China, where many immigrants returned from faraway Singapore. Chinese cuisine readily adopts new foods and ingredients when their virtues are recognized. These light and subtle rice noodles make an ideal foil for the spicy sauce.
serves 6–8
preparation time: 20 minutes, plus 25 minutes’ soaking
cooking time: 15 minutes
225 g (8 oz) thin dried rice noodles
2 eggs, beaten
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons groundnut oil
1½ tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh root ginger
6 fresh red or green chillies, seeded and finely shredded
6 fresh or tinned water chestnuts, peeled if fresh, sliced
50 g (2 oz) Chinese black mushrooms, soaked, stems removed (see here) and finely shredded
100 g (4 oz) Chinese barbecue pork or cooked ham, finely shredded
3 spring onions, finely shredded
100 g (4 oz) cooked small prawns, shelled
175 g (6 oz) small, sweet frozen peas, thawed
Fresh coriander leaves, to garnish
For the curry sauce:
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
3 tablespoons Indian Madras curry paste or powder
2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
250 ml (8 fl oz) tinned coconut milk
175 ml (6 fl oz) Classic Chinese chicken stock (see here) or good-quality bought stock
1 Soak the rice noodles in a bowl of warm water for 25 minutes, then drain them in a colander or sieve. In a small bowl, combine the eggs with the sesame oil, salt and pepper and set aside.
2 Heat a wok over a high heat, then add the groundnut oil. When it is very hot and slightly smoking, add the garlic, ginger and chillies and stir-fry for 30 seconds.
3 Add the water chestnuts, mushrooms, pork or ham and spring onions and stir-fry for 1 minute. Then add the rice noodles, prawns and peas and stir-fry for another 2 minutes.
4 Add all the sauce ingredients and cook over a high heat for 5 minutes or until most of the liquid has evaporated.
5 Now pour the egg mixture over the noodles and stir-fry constantly until the egg has set. Turn the noodles on to a large platter, garnish with coriander leaves and serve at once.
Menus
Here is some simple advice on how to put together a Chinese meal, plus suggested menus for a variety of occasions. Start with some of the easy ones, which will give you experience of the basic cooking techniques. At first, cook just one or two Chinese dishes at a time, perhaps including them as part of a European meal. Chinese snacks, for example, make wonderful starters at any meal, and many Chinese dishes can successfully be combined with Western-style meats and salads.
When you prepare your first completely Chinese meal, choose just two or three dishes and serve them with some plain steamed rice. Never select dishes that all need stir-frying or you will have a traumatic time in the kitchen trying to get everything ready at once and will arrive at the table hot and flustered. Choose instead one braised dish, a cold dish, or something that can be prepared ahead of time then warmed through, and limit your stir-frying to just one dish. This means that not only will you gain the confidence needed to try more ambitious recipes but also your meal will be all the more authentic for embracing a variety of techniques.
Remember that the art of Chinese cooking lies in achieving a harmonious blend of colour, texture, aroma and flavour. This involves using a range of cooking methods. A fish may be steamed, a meat braised, while the vegetables may be stir-fried. A meal will also be designed so that each dish is different and yet they all complement each other. One dish will be spicy and another mild; one may be chewy, another crisp. The total effect should appeal to all the senses. All the dishes should be placed in the centre of the table and shared between the diners, who help themselves and each other to a little of this and then a little of that. For the Chinese, eating is a communal experience, and a shared meal is regarded as the visible manifestation of the harmony that should exist between family and friends.
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Dinner Party for 6
This is an elegant, stylish meal for friends. It is quite ambitious but much of the work can be done ahead of time. Both the soup and the rice can be reheated. Serve the soup first, followed by the prawns, then serve the duck and rice. Increase the quantities given in the recipes by half to serve six.
Sweetcorn and crab soup
Spicy Sichuan-style prawns
Crispy aromatic duck
Egg-fr
ied rice
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Dinner Party for 6
This is a simpler menu than the one here and is light and tasty. Serve the fish first, followed by the chicken with spinach and rice. Increase the quantities given in the recipes by half to serve six.
Steamed Cantonese-style fish
Stir-fried chicken with black bean sauce
Stir-fried spinach
Perfect steamed rice
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Dinner Party for 6
Here is a savoury treat for your vegetarian friends. There is a variety of textures and tastes in this easy-to-prepare meal. Substitute vegetable stock for the chicken stock in the Braised Sichuan-style spicy beancurd. Increase the quantities given in the recipes by half to serve six.
Crispy ‘seaweed’
Stir-fried mixed vegetables
Braised Sichuan-style spicy beancurd
Perfect steamed rice
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Buffet for 20