Great Flood in, 8–9, 182–183, 208
Noah’s sons in, 211–212
Black Sea, 28, 31, 31n7, 33–37, 331, 343, 352–353, 358, 359
Bokova, Irina, 349
Bosporus, 30–31, 33–37
British Museum, 17, 18, 19, 20–21, 25, 33, 89–90, 94, 212, 250, 294, 310–311, 316, 317–319, 321–322, 325, 355, 356
Bryce, James, 166
Bueler, William, 12
Buried Book, The (Damrosch), 322, 323
Bush, George W., 261
C
Çaliğa, 223–225
Camp II, 156–158, 163, 185
Canada, 261
Cappadocia, 39, 41
Casson, Lionel, 323
Cathedral of the Holy Cross, 110, 111
Çavuşin, 40–41, 44
Çavuştepe, 100
Chaldean Account of Genesis, The (Smith), 315
Charles (Crockatt), 7, 96, 107–114, 116, 127, 132–135, 138, 143–145, 149, 153–158, 167–179, 182, 186, 188–193, 197, 200–201, 317, 325
Chivers, Tom, 93
Christianity, 7, 10, 13, 16n5, 19, 37, 67, 68, 76, 89, 102, 110, 160, 237, 327, 354, 355
Churchill, Winston, 11n2
Civilization (Clark), 203
Clark, Kenneth, 203
Climbing route, 125
Conefrey, Mick, 99
Constantinople, 249
Cooley, W. D., 66
Coracle, 92
Cornea, 182
Cornuke, Robert, 303–304
Creation, 16, 16n16, 160
Cregan-Reid, Vybarr, 250–251, 320
Crosby, Oliver S., 1, 8, 129–130
Cummings, Eryl, 103–106, 159
Cummings, Violet, 103–106
Cuneiform, 17, 18, 20, 32, 37, 61, 89–90, 93, 246, 249–250, 310–311, 317, 318, 319, 321, 353, 354, 355
Cyrus Cylinder, 20–21, 310
Cyrus the Great, 20–21, 37, 314, 316
D
Damrosch, David, 322
Davis, Leslie, 325
deMyle, Simon, 103
Descent, 178–197
Dietrich, Hermann, 129–130
Dinosaurs, 15–16
Discovering Gilgamesh (Cregan-Reid), 250–251, 320
Dobbs, Kildare, 49
Doğubeyazit, 110, 115–131, 139, 192–193
Dohuk, 264, 266
Dubba (Karim, Kaka), 236–237, 239–245, 250–261, 251, 253–255, 263, 265–270
Durupinar, İlhan, 208
Durupinar site, 207–212
E
Early Ascents of Ararat (Stuart), 120
Edmunds, Fred, 182
Epic of Gilgamesh, xv, 18, 44, 59–63, 104, 198, 250, 256, 278, 322
Erbil, 237–239, 241–242, 260
Erdoğan, RecepTayyip, 281, 331n19, 359–360
Euphrates, 15n4, 37, 38
F
Fasold, David, 211
Femmes du Mont Ararat, Les (The Women of Mount Ararat) (film), 82
Final ascent, 166–178
Fincke, Jeanette, 318, 319
Finkel, Irving, 84, 89–91, 92, 93–94
Fish Lake, 213–232
Flood. See Great Flood
“Flood Tablet,” 17–20, 94, 250, 251
Forbidden Mountain, The (Navarra), 1, 3, 129, 138–141, 176
Francis, Pope, 16n16, 331n19
Fraser, Alick, 120
Frost, Robert, 347
G
Genesis, Book of, 8, 14, 16n5, 89, 93, 102n11, 160, 208, 354
Genocide, 10–12, 11–12, 11n2, 148, 148n14, 325, 328–334, 331n19
George, Andrew, 322
Giil, Muslim, 292–293, 296–298
Giosan, Liviu, 31
Gladstone, William, 251
Goran (Jovanovic), 7, 96, 114–119, 127, 128, 132–138, 144–163, 167–182, 186, 187–202, 203–206, 213, 325
Göreme Open Air Museum, 44, 59
Great Ascents: A Narrative of Mountaineering (Newby), 103
Greater Armenia, 49, 67, 72, 75–77, 111, 162, 354
Greater Kurdistan, 76, 80–81, 348
Great Flood, 8–9, 13–15, 14n4, 59–61, 102
Gregory the Illuminator, 334
Gufa, 92
Gulf War, 234
H
Hamd, Iyshyeh, 252
Hamid, 299, 302, 304–307
Haydarpaşa Station, 31, 31n8
Hilabja, 254
Hitler, Adolph, 11n2 Holy Cross Cathedral, 110, 111
Hussein, Saddam, 24, 68, 240–241, 252, 261
I
Ian (Moffat), 6, 96, 107–119, 127, 132, 135, 138, 143–158, 164, 166–179, 181–194, 197, 200–206, 211, 213, 326
Ibraheem, Khaleel Border Complex, 266, 267
Ice Age, 34
Iran, 21, 32, 97–98, n124. See also Tehran
Iraq, 20, 197–198, 233–263, 349
Irwin, James, 8, 159–161
Isfahan Hotel, 121–123, 132, 203, 212, 229
Ishak Pasha Palace, 201, 204, 326
Isidore of Seville, 16
Islam, 7, 13, 37, 110, 212, 267n17, 281, 355, 358
Islamic State (ISIS), 248n16, 267n17, 348
Istanbul, 31, 31n8
J
Jabbar, Ali, 68, 237, 239, 241–242, 244, 253, 264–265
Jabbar, Andam, 21, 24, 231–232, 237, 351
Jabbar, Gulie, 23–25, 237, 253
Jabbar, Hemin, 236–238, 241–242, 244–245, 256, 259–260, 264, 266, 268–270
Jabbar, Huner, 237, 244–245, 253, 256, 258–260, 268–270
Jabbar, Taha, 22–25, 39, 232, 234, 237–238, 241, 243, 251, 253, 351
Japheth (son of Noah), 211–212
Journey to Ararat (Parrot), 66
Judaism, 12, 13, 37, 67, 68, 148, 354, 355
K
Kamelia, 299, 301–302, 304–307
Khader, Khasyeh, 237
Khanjian, Arsinée, 147–149, 149n14, 151, 359
Khodzko, Iosif, 7, 95
Khor Virap, xviii, 327, 333, 334
Kissinger, Henry, 349
Klein, Joe, 68
Koran. See Qur’an
Kubi (guide), 117–119, 126, 128, 130, 133–135, 145, 147, 152, 154, 155, 158–162, 164, 166–178, 184–185, 325
Kurczy, Stephen, 350
Kurdistan, 22, 22n6, 76, 81, 234, 261, 348
Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK), 80–83
Kurds, 76, 97–98, 101, 254
Kuyunjik, 246
L
Lake Van, 29, 56, 72, 74, 75, 78, 96, 100, 107, 109, 111, 268, 287, 295, 296, 303
Land of Ararat, The; Or Up the Roof of the World (Macdonald), xiv
Last Glacial Period, 34
Layard, Austen Henry, 18, 246, 248–249, 321–322
Lemkin, Raphael, 11n2
Lesser Ararat, 9, 124, 326, 345
Libraries in the Ancient World (Casson), 323
Library of Nineveh, 18, 20, 245, 246–249, 247n15, 318–319, 323
Life (magazine), 209, 358
Lost Mountains of Noah, The (Cornuke), 303
M
MacGregor, Neil, 294, 311
Maxwell, Gavin, 264
Merling, David, 211
Mesopotamia, 14, 37, 38, 72, 245
Middle East, as concept, 67–68
Mona, 299–302, 304–307
Monastery of St. Jacob, 65, 65n9
Montgomery, John, 103–104, 106
Moon landing, 159, 160
Morgenthau, Henry, 11–12, 325, 330
Mother of the World, 326
Mountain of Pain, 10, 153
Mountain sickness, 182
Mountains of Ararat, 9, 37, 61, 101, 103
Mountains of the World (Bueler), 12
Mount Ararat, 345
Agri Dagh, 10, 30, 64, 153
in Bible, 9
The Forbidden Mountain, 1
height of, 4
history of, 7–8
Irwin on, 159–161
names of, 9–10
rigors of, 12–13
in Stuart, 119–121
in Turkish culture, 9–10
in Urartu, 71
Mount Cudi, 276, 278
Mount Erciyes, 50
Mount Nimush, 61, 256, 279
Mount Nisir, 256
Mount Sabalan, 279, 303, 304
Movement of Free Women of Kurdistan, 82
Muslim. See Islam
N
Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic, 118n12
National Museum of Iran, 310–312
Navarra, Fernand, 1, 3, 8, 125, 132, 138–142, 141n13, 176
Newby, Eric, 103, 119
Nico (Vanderstoop), 99–102, 108–117, 126–138, 143–146, 153–155, 166, 191, 197–206, 212–220, 222–226, 326
Nimrud, 248, 248n16, 349
Nineveh, 18, 20, 245, 246–249, 247n15, 318–319, 323
Nineveh and Its Remains (Layard), 321–322
Noah, 8–9, 18, 211–212
Noah’s Ark
accounts of, 15–17
in Bible, 8–9, 182–183, 208
directions for constructing, 90–91
in Finkel, 89–91
history of, 13–15
in recent exploration history, 7–8
site claiming to be, 204–212
in Torah, 15, 37, 89, 94, 102, 208, 278, 354
Noah’s Ark: Fact or Fable (Cummings), 103–104
Noah’s Ark: I Touched It (Navarra), 142
Noah’s Ark Ministries International (NAMI), 350
Noah’s Ark National Park, 211, 359
Noah’s Pudding, 57–58
Nomads, 136–137, 196
North West Palace of Ashurnasirpal, 349
Nûh, 10, 14, 35, 37, 104, 212, 276, 355, 361
O
Oceangoing vessels, 105
Olearius, Adam, 115
Oval boat, 92
P
Pahlavi, Mohammad Reza, 313
Paraşut, 16, 94, 122, 142, 350
Parrot, Friedrich, 7, 65–66, 94, 120, 143, 316, 328
Parrot Glacier, 138–139, 161
Patricia (Ristich), 7, 88, 94–102, 107–117, 127–138, 143–158, 167–193, 197, 200–206, 213, 214–218, 221–226, 325
Pearson, Lester, 261
People’s Defense Units (YPD), 83
Persia, 21
Persian Gulf, 37
Peshmerga, 24, 253, 254, 348
“Phantom Ark,” 209
“Photo Vage,” 338, 341, 345, 351
Pir Omar Gudrun, 256
Pittman, Walter, 35–36
PKK. See Kurdistan Workers’ Party (PKK)
Plain of Araxes, 134
Plath, Sylvia, 195
Pleistocene Ice Age, 34
Plimer, Ian, 211
Polo, Marco, 49, 203
Pokr Vedi, 334, 338
Pope Francis, 16n16, 331n19
Protestant Reformation, 16n16
Q
Quest for Noah’s Ark, The (Montgomery), 106
Qur’an, 14, 35, 37, 47, 94, 102, 104, 276, 278, 355
R
Ramadan, 74, 132, 221, 225, 245, 251, 257–258, 287
Rassam, Hormuzd, 18, 248, 249
Rawlinson, Henry, 250
Reed Shaken by the Wind, A (Maxwell), 264
Reformation, 16n16
Rich, Claudius, 247
Riquer, Jean de, 139, 140
Roskovitsky, Vladimir, 104–106
Rumî, Mevlâna Jelaleddin, 40, 47, 48
Russia, 36, 65, 101, 104. See also Soviet Union, Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR)
Ryan, William, 35–36, 37
S
Salter, James, 153
Sarihan, Reşit, 207–208, 209
Sennacherib, 246–247
Seslitaş, 223–225
Shah, 313
Shajarian, Mohammad-Reza, 309–310
Sharoyan, Peter, 95
Sheep, 189–192
Shi’ites, 68
Silk Road, 203
Simmonds, Douglas, 90
Smith, George, 18, 249–251, 315, 319–321, 324
Solo Faces (Salter), 153
Song of Travel and Other Verses (Stevenson), 233
Soviet Union, 2, n139. See also Russia, Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR)
Stevenson, Robert Louis, 233
Strother, Robert S., 320–321
Stuart, Robert, 7, 119–121, 136
Sulimaniyah, 256–258
Sumeria, 17
Sumerians, 14, 17, 59
Summit, 177–178
Sunnis, 68
Surp Haç, 110, 111
T
Tabriz, 129, 300, 302
Tatvan, 29–32, 49, 51, 55, 56, 58, 64, 69, 70, 72–73, 79, 96, 109, 268, 276, 277, 280, 282, 283, 284, 286, 287, 288, 290, 291, 295, 297, 298, 300
Taylor, Jonathan, 32–33, 317, 321–323
Tehran, 32–33, 289, 295, 299–301, 302, 305, 306–310, 313, 315, 326
Thursby, Walter, 120, 121
Tigris River, 15, 20, 37, 38, 245, 246, 256, 267
Tillman, H. W., 184
Todd, Douglas, 16n5
Torah, 15, 37, 89, 94, 102, 208, 278, 354
Trans-Asia Express, 32, 193, 289, 294–314
Transcaucasia and Ararat (Bryce), 166
Turkey
Armenian Genocide and, 10–12, 148, 148n14
Iran and, 97–98
Kurdistan Workers’ Party and, 80–83
Mount Ararat in culture of, 9–10
Turkish Bath, 198
Two Mountains and a River (Tillman), 184
U
Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR), 2, n139. See also Russia, Soviet Union
United States of America, 22, 115, 133, 205, 209, 229, 233, 260–261, 300, 331, 358–359
Urartu, 71, 72, 162, 303, 329
Urarat, 329
Ussher, James, 15
Utnapishtim, 18, 19, 59, 61, 94, 250, 256, 353
V
Van (city of), 23, 29–30, 32, 64, 71–76, 78–80, 84–86, 96–97, 100–101, 107, 109–112, 116–119, 149, 192–193, 201, 230–231, 291–292, 294–297, 303
Van Castle, 116
Van Cats, 107
Van Gölü Express, 55–64
Vision, 182
von Abich, Hermann, 329
Voyages and Travels of the Ambassadors, The (Olearius), 115
W
Wargehe Delal, 266–267, 267n17
Whirling Dervishes, 46–48
Wilson, Woodrow, 326, 331–332
Women, 69–83
“Women of Ararat,” 82
Woolley, Leonard, xvii, 102n11, 350–351
World Order (Kissinger), 349
World War I, 12, 22
Wounds of Armenia (Abovian), 329
Wyatt, Ronald, 209, 350
Y
Yezidis, 267n17
YPD. See People’s Defense Units (YPD)
Z
Zafer (guide), 4–5, 13, 85–88, 94–102, 106–122, 126, 128, 134–135, 168, 196, 201, 203–206, 210–212, 230
Zagros Mountains, 256
Zargaryan, Tigran, 328–331
Zoroaster, 21
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Timbuktu’s most famous landmarks are three mosques. This minaret has been often remudded since its creation hundreds of years ago. The mosques have been cited as “unique earthen architecture. “
An Excerpt from
To Timbuktu for a Haircut
INTRODUCTION
Touch a Map of the World
WHEN I WAS A BOY, EVERY OCCASION MY FATHER left the house was important. I and my older brother would pester him: “Where are you going, Daddy? Where? To work? To church? To the store?” And in the vernacular of the day, or perhaps with a flippancy meant to silence us, he would say what I believed to be the truth: “I’m going to Timbuktu to get my hair cut.”
So began my own feeble notions of travel. With the irrefutable logic of a child, I understood that one day I, too, must go to Timbuktu and get my hair cut. After all, how far could it be?
Fifty years later, a world away, I walked a path among mud homes as old as time, baked by a dry heat that choked my breathing. It was impossible to tell the sand from the dust unless you stood on it. A young boy was setting up a chair with a missing leg in front of his parents’ house. Sand piled by the doorway, nudged there by desert winds that pushed relentlessly through these village streets. His left foot suddenly slipped over the edge of the path’s centre ditch. The slip almost caused him to fall into the shallow sewer. He noticed me as he regained his balance, and I stopped and looked into his eyes. We were only a metre apart. The youngster, maybe five years old, stared down my greeting. His eyes widened in a glare of determination. He crossed his dusty arms and clasped each defiant shoulder with a scraped hand. Sand and drool encrusted his lips in loose granules. The rose colour of his tongue showed and he did not smile. I felt like the first white man he’d ever seen, and not a welcome visitor. His face proclaimed his proud independence. He knew that whatever had lured me to travel there was hollow. But he did not know that I was looking for a shop where I could get my hair cut.
It was my wife’s idea. I had time available for being away the coming January, all of it, and Janice didn’t. For half a year we’d talked about my taking a solo journey. But her interest began to fade when the topic of “what I’ll do” reared its head. We were in Prague to hear the International Olympic Committee’s decision naming the host destination for the 2010 Olympic Winter Games. My colleagues and I had launched Canada’s Vancouver-Whistler bid six years earlier and were now part of the Canadian delegation. Janice and I arrived in the Czech Republic two days in advance, near midnight. In search of a late dinner, we walked on the cobblestones of the Charles Bridge, looking into the dark waters that flowed beneath. The roadway led us to an open but near-empty restaurant, where our lives were unexpectedly changed within minutes. While waiting for our grilled chicken over pasta we talked about the bid and then anything but the bid.
My wont at such times was to compile a mental list of projects I could accomplish within a month. Friends had suggested everything from a long walk to a short sailing voyage; my family advised a month’s vow of silence in a Tibetan monastery. It must change you, people said; you’ll come back better for the time away. Whatever you do, don’t stay home and do chores.
Full Moon over Noah's Ark Page 36