Cod: A Biography of the Fish That Changed the World

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by Mark Kurlansky


  Thor, Jón Th. British Trawlers and Iceland, 1919-1976. Göteborg, Sweden: University of Goteborg, 1995.

  Yvon, R. P. Avec les pecheurs de Terre-Neuve et du Groenland. St.-Malo: L’Ancre de Marine, 1993.

  FOOD HISTORY AND ANTHROPOLOGY

  Allen, Brigid. Food: An Oxford Anthology. Oxford: Oxford University, 1994.

  Artusi, Pellegrino. The Art of Eating Well. Translated by Kyle M. Phillips III. New York: Random House, 1996.

  Brereton, Georgina E., and Janet M. Ferrier, ed. Le Mesnagier de Paris. Paris: Le Livre de Poche, 1994.

  Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme. Physiologie du goût. Paris: Flammarion, 1982. First published in 1825.

  Capel, José Carlos. Manual del pescado. San Sebastián: R and B, 1995.

  Collins, John. Salt and Fishery, Discourse Thereof. London, 1682.

  Couderc, Philippe. Les Plats qui ont fait La France: De l’andouillette au vol-au-vent. Paris: Julliard, 1995.

  Davidson, Alan. North Atlantic Seafood. London: Macmillan, 1979.

  De Andrade, Margarette. Brazilian Cookery: Traditional and Modern. Rio de Janeiro: A Casa do Livro Eldorado, 1985.

  de la Falaise, Maxime. Seven Centuries of English Cooking: A Collection of Recipes. Edited by Arabella Boxer. New York: Grove Press, 1973.

  Dumas, Alexandre. Le Grand Dictionnaire de cuisine. Vol. 3, Poissons. Payré: Edit-France, 1995. First published in 1873.

  Hieatt, Constance B., ed. An Ordinance of Pottage: An Edition of the Fifteenth Century Culinary Recipes in Yale University’s Ms Beinecke 163. London: Prospect, 1988.

  Hope, Annette. A Caledonian Feast. London: Grafton, 1989.

  McClane, A. J. The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery. New York: Henry Holt, 1977.

  McGee, Harold. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. New York: Scribner’s, 1984.

  Montagne, Prosper. Larousse gastronomique. Paris: Larousse, 1938.

  Oliver, Sandra L. Saltwater Foodways: New Englanders and Their Food, at Sea and Ashore, in the Nineteenth Century. Mystic,.Conn.: Mystic Seaport Museum, 1995.

  Otaegui, Carmen. El Bacalao: Joya de nuestra cocina. Bilbao: BBK, 1993.

  Pizer, Vernon. Eat the Grapes Downward: An Uninhibited Romp through the Surprising World of Food. New York: Dodd, Mead, 1983.

  Riley, Gillian. Renaissance Recipes. London: New England Editions, 1993.

  Root, Waverley. Food. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1980.

  Root, Waverley, and Richard de Rochemont. Eating in America: A History. New York: William Morrow, 1976.

  Scully, Terence, ed. The Viandier of Taillevent. Ottawa: University of Ottawa Press, 1988.

  Sloat, Caroline, ed. Old Sturbridge Village Cookbook. Old Say-brook, Conn.: Globe Pequot Press, 1984.

  Tannahill, Reay. Food in History. New York: Stein and Day, 1973.

  Thorne, John, with Matt Lewis Thorne. Serious Pig: An American Cook in Search of His Roots. New York: North Point Press, 1996.

  Toussaint-Samat, Maguelonne. History of Food. Translated by Anthea Bell. Oxford: Blackwell, 1992.

  Trager, James. The Food Chronology: A Food Lover’s Compendium of Events and Anecdotes, from Prehistory to the Present. New York: Henry Holt, 1995.

  Visser, Margaret. Much Depends on Dinner: The Extraordinary History and Mythology, Allure and Obsessions, Perils and Taboos of an Ordinary Meal. New York: Macmillan, 1986.

  Wilson, C. Anne. Food and Drink in Britain: From the Stone Age to the 19th Century. Chicago: Academy Publishers, 1991.

  Acknowledgments

  This book owes a great debt to many people throughout the Atlantic region, but especially: José Juan Castillo in San Sebastián, Hallfredur Örn Eiriksson at the Árni Magnússon Institute in Reykjavik, Lillian Gonzalez in New York, Einar Gustavsson at the Scandinavian Tourist Board in New York, Jørgen Leth in Port-au-Prince, Louis Menashe in New York, David S. Miller in Copenhagen, Rosita Marrero in San Juan, Gillian Parsons at the University of Lancaster, Christine Toomey in London, John Walton at the University of Lancaster, arid Monique Zerdoun in Paris. Special thanks to Lisa Klausner.

  I am greatly indebted to Denise Martin and Linda Perney for so generously giving their time and considerable skills and for much valued advice. I also want to thank Charlotte Sheedy for all her support and guidance. This book owes much to my incredibly good fortune in finding the right editor and publisher. Deep-felt thanks to Nancy Miller for her friendship, faith, enthusiasm, and skillful work and to George Gibson, who is the kind of publisher of which most writers only dream.

  Index

  Acts of Trade and Navigation

  Adams, John

  Adams, John Quincy

  Alaska

  American Revolution

  Anglo-Danish Convention of 1901

  Arctic cod (Boreogadus saida)

  Aresti, Gabriel

  Arnold’s Cove, Newfoundland

  Asia, search for route to

  Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua)

  Auden, W. H.

  Bacalao companies

  Bait/baitfish

  Banks

  dangers of

  ownership of

  Bardot, Brigitte

  Barents Sea

  Basques

  cod recipes

  fish tongue, recipes

  transition to importing

  Belgium

  Beothuk tribe

  Bilbao, Spain

  Birdseye, Clarence

  Blackback fishery

  Blackburn, Howard

  Bluefin tuna

  Bones (cod), recipes

  Bonino, Emma

  Boston

  Boston Tea Party

  Bottom draggers/dragging

  Brandade

  Bretons

  Bristol merchants

  British

  see England

  British Admiralty

  British cod

  British Crown

  British Empire

  British fishermen

  and Common Fishing Policy

  in New England

  xenophobia of

  British fishing fleet

  in Iceland

  reduction of

  British West Indies

  Burbot

  Butler, James Davie

  By-catch

  Cabot, John

  Canada

  Department of Fisheries and Oceans fishing policy

  ‘ moratorium

  and New England fishermen

  Newfoundland and Labrador, province of

  regulation of fishing fleet

  right to Northeast Peak

  seal hunt

  and Spanish fishermen

  and territorial limits

  Canadian Coast Guard

  Cape Cod

  Cape Shark

  see also Dogfish

  Capelin

  Caribbean market

  Caribbean trade

  Cartier, Jacques

  Catches

  dwindling

  engine power and

  ground fish

  Iceland

  Pacific cod

  percent discarded

  size of

  see also Cod catches

  Catholicism

  Chafe, Bernard

  Cheeks (cod), recipes

  Cherry bottom

  Chowder recipes

  Climate

  Cod (Gadus morhua)

  aberrations in

  characteristics of

  disappearance of

  eggs/young

  as fetish

  in fish-and-chips

  kinds of

  migration

  New England

  in New England economy

  parts eaten

  size of

  sources of

  tagging

  words for/associated with

  see also Arctic cod; Atlantic cod; Northern stock; Pacific cod; and under specific terms, e.g., Sounds (cod)

  Cod catches

  Canada

>   limits on

  Cod farming

  Cod fisheries

  and abolition

  closed

  Cod fisheries (cont’d)

  fortunes made in

  freezing and

  Cod fishing

  and American Revolution

  changes in

  New England

  Cod grounds

  Iceland

  Cod-liver oil

  Cod markets

  Cod prices

  Cod stocks

  British waters

  capacity to reproduce

  depletion of

  Georges Bank

  hope for return of

  Icelandic

  inshore

  migration and

  resilience of nature and

  restoring

  Cod trade

  New England

  and slavery

  West Indies

  Cod Wars

  Codfish aristocracy

  Codfish balls (recipes)

  Codpiece

  Collins, John

  Columbus, Christopher

  Commission of Government (Newfoundland)

  Common Fishing Policy

  Conservation

  Conservation policy

  Continental shelf(ves), ownership of

  Convenant, René

  Convention of 1818,

  Côrte Real, Gaspar

  Crabbing

  Croft, Thomas

  Crosbie, John

  Cured cod

  quality of

  Curing

  Darwin, Charles

  Declaration of Independence

  Denmark

  and Cod Wars

  Iceland’s independence from

  word for cod

  di Soncino, Raimondo

  Diesel power

  Dogfish

  see also Cape Shark; Overfishing

  Dorymen

  Dragging nets

  Dried cod

  Dried fish

  Easting and westing

  Eguino, Adolfo

  Eirik the Red

  Engine power

  England

  and American Revolution

  lack of salt

  North American colonies

  and territorial limits

  Environmentalists

  European Economic Community

  European Union

  Europeans

  exploring New World

  fishing northern Banks

  Euskadi

  Eysteinsson, Úlfar

  Factory ships

  Farming

  Filleting machinery/plants

  Fish, getting to market

  Fish-and-chips

  Fish consumption

  Fish farming

  Fish fillets

  Fish prices

  Fish-processing plants

  Fish sticks

  Fish stocks

  depletion of

  monitoring

  North Atlantic

  see also Cod stocks

  Fishermen

  dangers to

  effect of fishing policy on

  esprit de corps

  as fish-plant workers

  former

  Iceland

  inshore

  Petty Harbour

  reduction in number of

  skills of

  status in fishing cod

  techniques used by

  Fishermen’s Wives of Gloucester

  Fishery management

  Fishery management councils

  Fishery Products International (FPI)

  Fishing

  capital investment

  changes in

  combined with farming

  economies based on

  government subsidization of

  modernized

  New England

  Newfoundland

  see also Cod fishing

  Fishing grounds

  and 200-mile zone

  Fishing industry

  British

  government support for

  Fishing Industry (cont’d) Japan

  Fishing policy forcing fishermen out

  Fishing rights

  Fishing rooms

  Fishing zones

  Fishy Moore’s (co.)

  Flemish Cap

  Fog

  Food fishery

  France

  and Cod Wars

  and fishing rights

  and modernization of fishing

  salt tax

  and territorial limits

  Franklin, Benjamin

  Freezing (fish)

  French and Indian War

  French colonies

  French fishing fleet

  French Revolution

  Fresh cod

  recipes

  Frozen cod

  Frozen food

  Gadiformes

  cured, dried

  Gaspé cure

  Gaspé Peninsula

  Gati, Peter

  General Foods

  General Seafoods Company

  Genetic diversity

  Georges Bank

  cod stock

  oil found on

  ships fishing

  ships lost

  U.S./Canada border

  Germany

  Ghent treaty

  Gillnetters/gillnetting

  Gloucester

  Eastern Point

  economic crisis

  fear of Canadian competition

  Gloucester fishermen

  Gloucester fleet

  Gorton’s (co.)

  Gosnold, Bartholomew

  Government subsidization of fishing

  Grand Bank

  Grand Banks

  closed

  dorymen on

  fishing rights

  fishing ships

  international section of

  New England fishermen barred from

  oil found on

  requiem for

  Great Britain

  market for groundfish in

  see also England

  Green cod

  Green fish

  Greenland

  Greenpeace

  Grimsby

  Grindavik, Iceland

  Groundfish

  catches

  diminishing

  distinctions between

  frozen

  market for

  Groundfishing

  regulation of

  Groundfishing fleet (Canada)

  Guadeloupe

  Gulf of St. Lawrence

  Habardine

  Haddock

  catches

  market for

  Hake

  Hancock, John

  Handlining

  Hanseatic League

  Harry Ramsden’s (co.)

  Heads (cod), recipes

  Herring

  Hooper, William

  Hull (port)

  Huxley, Thomas Henry

  Iceland

  cod stock

  combining fishing and farming in

  compared with Newfoundland

  diet

  entrepreneurial class in

  fisheries in economy of

  independence

  rights to cod in

  salt cod exported from

  see also Cod Wars

  Icelandic Coast Guard

  Icelandic cod

  Icelandic shelf, catches

  Industrialization

  International Commission for the Northwest Atlantic Fisheries

  International Council for Exploration of the Seas (ICES)

  International Court of Justice

  International Fisheries Exhibition (London)

  International law of the sea

  Ireland

  Irish box

  Irish Sea

  Italy recipes

  Japan

  Jefferson, Thomas

  Jewell, David

  Jiggingr />
  Johnson, Alfred

  Joncas. Z.

  Jónsson, Jón

  Juveniles

  Kirby, Michael

  Krill

  La Rochelle, France

  Labrador

  Landings

  Latin America

  Latitude

  Laxness, Halldór

  Lee, Sam

  Leifur (Leif Eiriksson)

  Ling

  Lobsters/lobstering

  Longitude

  Longlines

  Longlining

  Lumpfish

  Lunenburg fishery

  Lutefisk

  Mackerel

  Madison, James

  Magnuson Fisheries Conservation and Management Act of

  Maine

  Marine ecology

  Marine Research Institute (Iceland)

  Martin, Cabot,

  Martinez, Juan

  Massachusetts

  cod fishery

  in slave trade

  see also Cape Cod; Gloucester; Salem

  Massachusetts Bay Colony

  Mayo, Ralph

  Mediterranean markets

  Mesh size

  Mifflin, Fred

  Miquelon

  Molasses Act of

  Moratorium

  Morison, Samuel Eliot

  National Marine Fisheries Service

  National Sea Products

  Nationalism

  NATO

  Nature

  indomitable force of

  resilience of

  Naumkeag

  Navigation

  Net trawling

  Netherlands

  Netting

  New England

  and American Revolution

  climate

  cod exports

  cod in economy of

  domestic market

  fishing

  fishing seasons

  new technology in

  trade

  New England coast

  charting

  New England fisheries

  New England fishermen

  and American Revolution

  barred from Grand Banks

  fear of Canadian competition

  fishing rights

  New England Fishery Commission

  New England Fishery Management Council

  New Englanders

  New France

  New World

  Newfoundland

  compared with Iceland

  cod fishing

  cod stocks

  cod trade

  crabbing

  diet in

  economy of

  fishing in

  French in

  inshore fishing

  law regulating mesh size

  and oil companies

  Portuguese in

  salt cod

 

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