The Meat Racket: The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business

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The Meat Racket: The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business Page 38

by Christopher Leonard


  The public comment from Tyson Foods on the GIPSA rule didn’t look like a letter: Comment from Tyson Foods, obtained by author from U.S. Department of Agriculture archive of public comment on GIPSA rules.

  The final hearing in the series of USDA/DOJ workshops: “Workshop on Agriculture and Antitrust Enforcement Issues in Our 21st Century Economy,” http://www.justice.gov/atr/public/workshops/ag2010/dc-agworkshop-transcript.pdf, December 8, 2010.

  David Murphy arrived at the hearing with some heavy boxes: David Murphy, interview by author.

  During the course of 2011, the meat industry’s intensified opposition to the GIPSA rule began to foster deep divisions: J. Dudley Butler, interviews by author; background interviews by author.

  To the pragmatists, the GIPSA rule was starting to look like a disaster : Butler, interviews by author; background interviews by author. Accounts of meetings are based on the accounts of at least two people who attended the meetings reported here. Secretary Vilsack refused several requests to comment on the meetings. U.S. Department of Agriculture Public Affairs Director Justin DeJong refused to allow Anne Cannon MacMillan or Krysta Harden to provide comment or responses to the accounts of multiple people who attended meetings with MacMillan and Harden.

  On a chilly Thursday morning in October 2011: “Agriculture Secy: US Having Record Year in Agriculture,” MSNBC, Morning Joe, aired October 6, 2011.

  Inside GIPSA, it became clear that Dudley Butler had lost the fight: J. Dudley Butler, interviews by author; background interviews by author.

  But the so-called “competitive injury” provision had become a political liability: Remarks by Senator Pat Roberts to the Committee on Agriculture, Nutrition and Forestry, Washington, D.C., June 28, 2011, transcript available at http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CHRG-112shrg71631/html/CHRG-112shrg71631.htm.

  The USDA decided it would repropose the “competitive injury” rule: “USDA Implements Provisions from 2008 Farm Bill to Protect Livestock and Poultry Producers,” http://www.usda.gov/wps/portal/usda/usdamediafb?contentid=2011/12/0508.xml&printable=true&contentidonly=true, accessed December 8, 2011.

  The House of Representatives passed a spending bill that summer that banned GIPSA from using any money: Christopher Leonard, “Congress Set to Cut Money for Meat Industry Reform,” Associated Press, November 16, 2011.

  After the bill was released, meat industry lobbyists gave a special public thanks: Statement from National Pork Producers Council e-mailed to author.

  The Department of Justice released its own small report on the workshops: “Competition and Agriculture: Voices from the Workshops on Agriculture and Antitrust Enforcement in Our 21st Century Economy and Thoughts on the Way Forward,” http://www.justice.gov/atr/public/reports/283291.pdf, May 2012.

  Shortly after the GIPSA rule was defeated, Dudley Butler resigned: Christopher Leonard, “Top Meat Antitrust Regulator Quits,” Associated Press, January 19, 2012; J. Dudley Butler, interview by author.

  CHAPTER 13: DON’S HORIZON

  One of Don Tyson’s houses is a palatial estate: Jim Blair, interview by author.

  Don Tyson saw the real opportunity in countries like Brazil, India, and China: Christopher Leonard, “Don Tyson Says Meat Company Seeks Global Growth,” Associated Press, November 3, 2008.

  But Don was still surrounded by family: J.J. Caldwell-Tyson, interview by author, 2011.

  When Don was out on the open ocean, he woke up early to go fishing: J.J. Caldwell-Tyson, interview by author, 2011.

  Don and Johnny seemed to overcome whatever hard feelings: Statement from Tyson Foods, May 2013.

  Jim Blair drove down the lonely country roads: Jim Blair, interview by author.

  On Sunday, January 4, 2011, Don Tyson watched: Jim Blair, interview by author, March 2011; J.J. Caldwell-Tyson, interview by author.

  President Bill Clinton was solemn as he walked: Transcript of remarks by President William Jefferson Clinton at the funeral of Don Tyson, Springdale, Arkansas, January 8, 2011, obtained by author.

  Don Tyson left behind a company that reaped $28.4 billion: Tyson Foods Annual Report 2010, Form 10-K, 17.

  On February 4, 2011, Donnie Smith woke up early: Donnie Smith, CEO Tyson Foods, Earnings Call Transcript discussing Q1 2011 results, February 4, 2011.

  The unemployment rate was 9.7 percent: “Unemployment rate and civilian labor force, January 2008–December 2010,” http://www.bls.gov/opub/ted/2011/ted_20110111_data.htm. January 11, 2011.

  In the midst of all this, Donnie Smith had some very good news: Donnie Smith, remarks on Earnings Call, February 4, 2011.

  Smith’s prediction turned out to be correct: “Tyson Reports Fourth Quarter and Fiscal Year 2011 Results,” November 2011.

  After 2011, price hikes and production cuts became central to Tyson’s business model: Analysis by author of Tyson Foods Annual Reports for fiscal years 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012.

  The operating profit margins of the nation’s top four meat companies doubled: 2011 P&SP Annual Report, Packers and Stockyards Program, March 2012, 32.

  By the middle of 2012, the plan was working well: “News Release, Tyson Reports Second Quarter and Six Months Fiscal 2012 Results,” http://ir.tyson.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=65476&p=irol-newsArticle_Print&ID=1692164&highlight=, accessed April 19, 2013.

  But it is possible, using government data: Analysis by the author and Casey Smith, University of Missouri student and IRE database researcher, of county-level income data provided by the U.S. Bureau of Economic Analysis.

  Berryville’s First National Bank sits on a corner: Robert West, interview by author, 2011.

  Tyson Foods used to recruit new contract farmers: “Grow with Tyson: A Resource for Independent Growers for Tyson Foods, Inc.,” http://www.growwithtyson.com/overview-of-contract-poultry-farming/, accessed April 19, 2013.

  INDEX

  “accrual” accounting, 72, 73

  activist groups, 257, 262, 279, 283, 294, 317–18

  Administrative Procedure Act (1946), 289

  Agricultural Adjustment Act (1933), 57–58

  Agricultural Producer Protection Act (2000), 252

  agriculture, industrial, 6, 7, 10, 159, 246–47, 268, 294, 296, 314

  biological and chemical innovations in, 5–6, 21, 52, 69, 92, 108–9, 157, 235, 314

  corporate oligarchies and concentration of power in, 12, 231, 232–33, 235, 246, 249, 254, 261–62, 280–81, 282, 302–3, 316

  declining profits for farmers in, 7, 69–70, 79, 269, 281, 294

  in disappearance of independent/family farms, 5, 49, 50, 70, 184, 191, 194, 196–97, 202, 205, 231, 232, 236, 238, 246, 281, 298

  rise of, 69–70, 110, 198

  specialization in, 69, 94, 166

  USDA/DOJ workshops on growing power of corporations in, 12, 279–82, 287, 288, 289, 294–95, 298, 302–3

  see also farming and agriculture; meat industry; specific types of farms and industries

  Agriculture Act (1961), 67

  Agriculture Department, U.S. (USDA), 45, 141, 153, 175, 202, 246, 263, 265, 269, 273, 275, 276, 280, 281, 282, 289, 290, 291, 294, 295, 297, 300, 301, 302, 327n

  beef grades given by, 213, 215–16, 222

  central planning regime of, 165

  DOJ’s joint public workshops with, 12, 279–82, 287, 288, 289, 294–95, 298, 302–3

  Farmers Home Administration of, 140

  Farm Service Agency of, 139–45

  labor disputes and, 84–85

  OMB meetings with, 298–99

  “Visions for the Millennium” event of, 244–46, 250

  see also Grain Inspection, Packers and Stockyards Administration

  Agri-Pulse industry news service, 291

  Ainsworth Feed Yard, 219

  Allen, Bob, 187–89, 191–94

  brain aneurysm of, 197–98, 199, 200

  debts of, 199–200

  Tyson’s contract with, 193–94, 198

  American Meat Institute, 251, 285, 286, 288, 289

  Anderson,
Andy, 169–70

  Ankeny, Iowa, 12, 279–82, 287, 298

  antibiotic drugs, 7–8, 221

  antitrust laws, 12, 99, 145, 220, 248–49, 251, 254, 271, 277, 283, 284, 299, 301, 302

  Antonio (cowboy), 207–8, 210

  Archer Daniels Midland, 235

  Arctic Alaska Fisheries, 159

  Arkansas, 42, 48, 53, 57, 58, 60, 64, 67, 68, 82, 83, 87, 99, 138, 143, 144, 155, 158, 191, 192, 243, 244, 256, 262, 314, 316

  immigrant workers in, 45–46, 114, 118–20, 137, 141

  lack of contract farming regulation in, 257, 280

  Ozark hill country in, 48, 55, 58, 106, 305, 306

  Arkansas, University of, 53, 59, 65, 68, 74, 77, 151, 162, 314

  Arkansas Valley Industries, 84

  Armour and Company, 76, 84, 149, 169, 214

  Arnold, Thurmond, 277

  Asian immigrants, 212

  see also Laotian immigrants

  Auburn University, 121, 132

  auctions, cattle, 213, 219, 254

  Avalos, Edward, 289–91

  Baker, James R., 246–48, 249, 254

  balloon loans, 200

  banks, 1, 38–39, 55, 67, 98, 136, 138, 268, 281, 317

  contract farmers extended loans by, 23, 26, 68, 70, 125, 127, 139, 140, 141–43, 144, 156, 188, 200, 247, 317

  “dollar auctions” of, 57

  Don Tyson’s risky loans from, 58–59, 67, 75, 78, 98

  federal farm loan program and, 139–45

  Barnicle, Mike, 298

  Bass Brothers Enterprises, 101

  Beef, 225

  beef industry, 54, 92, 169, 171–72, 247, 308

  battles between producers and meatpackers in, 208–9

  biological innovations in, 6, 314

  “boxed beef” in, 170–71, 172

  cattle buyers in, 213–16, 217–21

  centrally controlled system in, 215, 229, 266

  “chickenization” of, 149, 152–53, 171–72, 173–74, 209, 216–17, 226, 242, 283

  consolidation of power in, 5, 153, 171, 173–74, 208, 214, 215, 222, 229, 235, 248, 249, 280–81

  corporate culture of, 210, 211, 215, 216, 218, 221

  corporate oligarchy in, 5, 153, 171, 176, 208, 209, 212–13, 214, 218, 219, 220, 229, 235, 248, 249, 269, 280–81, 284

  cutting of costs in, 212

  declining consumer consumption in, 152, 158, 169, 171, 208, 242

  declining quality of meat in, 153, 216, 224, 225

  government regulations in, 66, 84–85, 220, 248, 254, 284

  IBP’s dominance in, 169, 171, 174

  lawsuits filed in, 269

  lobbyists in, 210–11, 223, 285, 286, 295

  loss of open, competitive market in, 5, 173–74, 209, 212–13, 217, 218–20, 221–23, 224, 229, 269

  meatpacking sector in, see meatpackers

  rising consumer prices in, 248, 269, 294, 313

  slaughterhouses in, 169–70, 172, 174, 211–12, 215, 221, 226, 311

  Tyson’s business model adopted in, 149, 173–74, 209, 212n, 223, 225

  Tyson’s dominance in, 180, 208–9, 281n

  USDA grades in, 213, 215–16, 222

  vertical integration in, 5, 172, 209, 285

  volatile market cycles in, 209, 213

  Zilmax used in, 225, 226

  see also cattle ranching; feedlots, cattle; meat industry

  Beef Marketing Group (BMG), 222, 223

  Berryville, Ark., 8, 120, 150–51, 315, 317

  Bethel, Bill, 35, 36, 38

  Blair, Jim, 22–23, 82–83, 84, 94, 102, 145, 168, 176, 308–9

  background of, 82, 99

  Don Tyson’s estate planning by, 166–67

  in merger and acquisition deals, 98–99, 100–101, 109–10

  Blunt, Roy, 302

  Bond, Richard, 180, 264

  Borck, Lee, 222–24, 226, 284

  “boxed beef,” 170–71, 172

  Brazil, 305, 306

  breeding techniques, 21, 53, 62, 92, 108–9, 157, 159, 167, 202–3, 237

  Breimyer, Harold F., 230–31, 233, 260, 316

  Britt, Wayne, 163–64

  Brown, Tommy, 29–32, 103

  Burger King, 91, 92, 107, 108

  Burnett, Ron, 139–40, 141

  Burris, Chris, 221

  Bush, George W., 264

  Bush administration, 175–76, 254, 255, 277, 303

  butchers, 66, 170, 171, 178

  Butler, Coy, 118, 119

  Butler, J. Dudley, 282–83, 289, 296, 297, 298, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303

  Cachu (cowboy), 207–8, 210

  Caldwell, Ramona, 307, 309

  Caldwell-Tyson, J. J., 307–8, 309

  California, 41, 42, 296

  Cardoza, Dennis, 296

  Cargill Inc., 203, 208, 209, 212, 217, 218–19, 220, 225, 235, 241, 246–47, 251, 253, 257, 286

  Carson, Gene, 209–11, 213–17, 220–21, 224, 226

  “cash-basis” accounting, 72–75

  cash crops, 54, 55, 57, 58, 64, 165, 166, 186, 229, 264–65, 308

  cattle buyers, 213–16, 217–21

  cattle drives, 207–8, 210, 211

  cattle ranching, 1, 25, 85, 116, 140, 149, 151, 159, 170, 173, 207–8, 234, 246, 266, 288, 298

  Certified Angus Beef marketing campaign of, 225

  depression of prices in, 84, 208, 213, 248, 269, 294

  independent businesses in, 145–46, 158, 181, 188, 190, 213, 234, 235

  industrialization in, 5, 152–53, 172, 181, 208, 209, 211

  legislative attempts in creating protections for, 284, 285

  in pre-industrialized era, 208, 211, 213, 248

  raising of cows in, 54, 172–73

  see also beef industry; feedlots, cattle

  Center for American Progress, 277

  Chambers Bank, 1, 26, 38–39, 141, 142

  chicken farming, industrial, 9, 21, 29, 68, 92, 117–18, 120–21, 135–36, 152, 153, 195, 209, 230, 272, 274, 280, 326

  bankruptcies in, 9, 39, 40, 41, 42, 44–45, 46, 113, 118, 127, 137–38, 139, 140, 143, 188, 246, 256–57, 292, 293

  depression of prices paid in, 31, 46, 79, 114–15, 116–18, 119, 122, 126, 127, 132, 188, 269, 275, 294, 312

  diseased birds in, 9, 17–20, 27–29, 32, 36, 37, 38, 39–40, 41, 43–44, 103, 109, 118, 120, 133–35, 136, 137

  federal loan program and subsidies for, 139–45

  high-costs, low profitability of, 19, 22–23, 31, 32, 34, 39, 45, 69, 71, 117, 124, 126, 127, 128, 130, 131, 132, 134, 136, 137, 138, 139, 140, 143, 188, 273, 293

  increasing complexity of, 70–71

  labor disputes in, 84–85

  Laotian immigrants in, 45–46, 113, 114–15, 118–20, 123, 124–25, 127–31, 132–37, 138–39, 141, 142–43

  legislative attempts at creating protections in, 275, 284, 287–88, 291–94, 295, 299–301, 302

  Northwest Poultry Growers Association in, 79, 84, 85

  opposition to GIPSA rule in, 291–93

  potential unionization threat in, 83–84

  raising of birds in, 5–6, 18, 29–30, 59, 108, 109, 120–21, 126, 130, 150, 151, 153, 154

  tournament system of pay in, 24, 33, 105–6, 114–17, 119, 120–22, 124–25, 126, 127, 130–32, 137, 139, 145, 256, 257, 284, 292, 293–94, 299–300, 301

  trucking log errors in, 34–35

  Tyson’s close monitoring of, 20, 24, 33, 34, 115, 126, 130, 131

  Tyson’s fast-food strategy and, 30–31

  Tyson’s tight control over, 17n, 21, 23–25, 33, 38, 43–44, 62, 83–84, 85, 103, 114–15, 117, 120, 131, 134, 138–39, 159, 173, 232, 237, 257, 310, 312

  see also contract farmers; poultry industry

  chicken farming, pre-industrial, 26, 34, 42, 52, 53, 58

  chicken houses in, 52, 53, 54, 129

  John Tyson in seeking control of, 54–56

  riskiness and unpredictability in, 53, 54, 55, 68, 70, 122, 140

  chicken houses, 9, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 26, 27–28, 42, 44, 68, 69
, 71, 92, 113–14, 121, 125, 138, 150, 294, 299

  bank loans for, 26, 70, 127, 143, 144

  equipment in, 23, 27–28, 30, 32, 41, 52, 53, 69, 123, 127, 128–30, 131, 134, 293

  high costs of, 23, 26, 31, 32, 39, 41, 71, 113, 123, 127, 128, 130, 131, 134, 140, 293

  hog barns as modeled on, 154, 155, 183, 192

  in influencing tournament ranking, 132

  of N&N Farm, 128–30, 132, 133, 134, 136

  pre-industrial, 52, 53, 54, 129

  size of, 23, 70, 129

  chicken nuggets, 95, 106, 107, 163, 178, 265, 274

  chicken tenders, 106–7

  China, 305, 306

  choice-grade beef, 213, 215–16, 222

  Christian (cowboy), 207–8, 210

  “Class B” shares, 162

  Clinton, Bill, 245, 254, 262, 268, 310

  Clinton, Hillary, 261, 262–63

  Clinton administration, 277

  Cobb, Bruce, 219

  Cobb-Vantrass, 108–9

  Combs, Carla Tyson, 175

  Combs, Gary, 175

  Communists, 123, 138

  ConAgra Foods, 232, 251, 261, 263, 269, 286

  Congress, U.S., 67, 72, 85, 143, 165, 229, 248, 253, 286, 296, 310, 317, 318

  opposition to GIPSA rule in, 290, 291, 296, 297, 300–302

  2008 farm bill in, 283

  2012 farm bill in, 289, 290–91

  Consolidated Beef Producer, 219

  Constitution, U.S., Commerce Clause of, 253

  consumer advocacy groups, 318

  contract farmers, 7, 58, 80, 124, 209, 229, 231–32, 247, 272, 274, 316, 326

  bank loans extended to, 23, 26, 68, 70, 125, 127, 139, 140, 141–43, 144, 156, 188, 200, 247, 317

  in beef industry, 152–53, 172, 173, 209, 210, 211, 212n, 218, 219, 220, 221–23, 224, 225, 226, 227, 247, 269, 284

  corporate recruiting of, 26, 45, 156, 187–89, 236, 318–19

  debts and financial struggles of, 3, 10, 18, 19, 20, 23, 28, 30, 31, 32, 38–39, 40, 41–42, 44–45, 71, 83, 113, 114–15, 119, 127, 134, 136, 137–38, 143, 188, 193–94, 196, 199–200, 230, 239, 246, 257, 267, 274, 292, 293, 317

  depression of prices paid to, 4, 5, 7, 25, 31, 35, 46, 79, 114–15, 116–18, 119, 122, 126, 127, 132, 168, 188, 192, 204, 236, 269, 275, 294, 312

  difficulties in changing companies for, 136–37

  economic pitfalls of, 229–33

  emergence of, 68, 70, 71

  federal loan program for, 139, 140–45

  GIPSA reforms passed for, 302

  inability to organize by, 37, 79, 84, 85, 244, 250, 256, 257

 

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