Versace, Gianni, 250, 266, 300, 313
Veruschka, 125, 130, 131, 133, 160, 210, 251, 330
Vibe, 366, 371
Vienne, Véronique, 173, 175
Villeneuve, Justin de, 139
Vingt Ans, 217
Vitti, Monica, 125
Viva, 321
Vodianova, Natalia, 370
Vogel, Lucien, 28, 39, 40
Vogue, 9, 21–23, 24–26, 27, 30n, 32, 34, 35, 38–39, 40, 41, 43, 44, 52, 53, 54, 81, 84, 90, 97, 104, 113–14, 120, 129, 131, 135, 145, 157, 164, 174, 175–76, 199, 202, 248, 274, 279, 296, 297, 300, 319, 320, 322–23, 327, 331, 333–34, 338, 346, 356, 366
Avedon’s friction with, 162
Blumenfeld fired from, 36
Blumenfeld rehired at, 37
Blumenfeld’s break with, 54–55
Elgort’s work in, 218–20, 223
growth of fashion show teams of, 313
Hutton’s shoot for, 211–12
King lured to, 283
Kinski shot in, 253
Last Sitting excerpt run by, 155
Maser’s shots for, 300–301
Peterson’s refusal to shoot for, 217
Pfeifer’s shoot for, 218
plummeting circulation of, 196
revamping of, 25–26, 196–97, 216, 223–24, 229–30
Turbeville at, 233–35
Vreeland’s joining of, 71
Wintour’s remaking of, 171
Vogue (Australian), 174, 175–76
Vogue (German), 25
Vogue (London), 98, 99, 132, 176, 217, 224, 227, 264, 321, 327, 338, 343, 346, 350, 351, 360
Vogue (Paris), 25, 35, 59, 132, 156, 176, 180–81, 192, 218, 224, 226, 229, 232, 280, 296, 297, 344, 348, 350, 356, 357, 358, 360
Vogue (Spanish), 25
Vogue Italia, 236, 302, 308, 322, 324–25, 331, 332, 339, 342
Vogue Patterns, 206, 240, 274
Vorkapich, Eddie, 91, 151, 164
Vorkapich, Hanne, 151, 164
Vorkapich, Lynn, 151–52
Vreeland, Diana, 19, 21, 31, 36, 49, 53, 61, 82, 89–90, 101, 104, 105, 108, 109–10, 113–14, 115, 117, 127, 128–29, 131, 133, 137, 139, 145, 161, 209, 223, 230, 304, 322, 356
Avedon wanted at Vogue by, 160
Bazaar joined by, 33
as out of fashion, 195–96
photographers flattered by, 129–30
Tree discovered by, 131
Turbeville lured to Bazaar by, 231
Vogue joined by, 71
Vreeland, T. Reed, 33
Vu, 28
W
W, 305, 307, 367
Waddell, Rankin, 344
Wahlberg, Mark, 304, 336
Waldman, Peter, 161, 162, 163
Wallace, Benjamin, 365
Wangenheim, Burkhardt von, 243–44
Wangenheim, Christine, 245
Wangenheim, Chris von, 226, 239, 241–45, 281–82, 341
Wangenheim, Regine von, 243–44, 245
War (band), 271
Ward, Melanie, 328–29
Warhol, Andy, 121, 152, 162, 205, 211, 341
“Water & Oil,” 342
Waters, Charlotte, 8
Watson, Albert, 239, 241
Webb, David, 6
Weber, Bruce, 190, 261, 263–78, 281, 300–309, 313, 315, 317–18, 319, 320, 323, 324, 339, 346, 347, 350
Klein’s relationship with, 303–4, 310, 334–35
Lauren’s relationship with, 302–3, 335
Weil, Danielle, 114–15
Weinberg, Chester, 294
Wek, Alek, 170
Welch, Raquel, 245
Welles, Orson, 25
Welty, Eudora, 307
Wenner, Jann, 247, 254
Werbowy, Daria, 281
Wesselmann, Tom, 138
Western Project, The (Avedon), 215
Weston, Edward, 102, 277
Whitaker, Ross, 219
White, Nancy, 17, 69, 105, 110, 113–15, 116, 118, 126, 127, 197, 198, 232, 233, 274, 356
White Women (Newton), 228, 281
Why Don’t You (column), 33–34
Wilder, Billy, 93
Wilhelmina, 183
Williams, Rachel, 257–58
Wilson, Earl, 113
Winfrey, Oprah, 348, 371n
Wintour, Anna, 21–22, 171, 253–54, 321–22, 325, 331, 333, 350
Wisniak, Nicole, 213
Witkin, Lee, 76
Wolf, Henry, 72, 108, 110, 114, 121–22, 207
Wolfe, Tom, 121
Women Alone, 244
Women’s Wear Daily, 196, 214, 314, 315, 325, 346, 350
World War I, 29
“Wrecking Ball” video, 6–7, 10
Y
Young Idea, 99, 103
Yva, 174
Yves Saint Laurent, 220, 301
Z
Zahm, Olivier, 364
Zappa, Frank, 272
Zara, 349
Ziff, Sara, 372
Zito, Chuck, 10
Zoli model agency, 217
Zuretti, Chuck, 286, 288–89, 292–93
An Imprint of Simon & Schuster, Inc.
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Copyright © 2016 by Idee Fixe Ltd.
Several brief passages in this book were first published in Photo District News, Vanity Fair, and New York.
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Author photograph © David Bailey/Camera Eye Ltd.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Name: Gross, Michael [date]– author.
Title: Focus : the secret, sexy, sometimes sordid world of fashion photographers / by Michael Gross.
Description: New York : Atria Books, [2016]
Identifiers: LCCN 2015046283
Subjects: LCSH: Fashion photographers—Biography. | Fashion photographers—Conduct of life. | Models (Persons)—Biography. | Fashion photography—History. | Fashion merchandising—Social aspects.
Classification: LCC TR139 .G76 2016 (print) | LCC TR139 (ebook) | DDC 770.92/2—dc23
LC record available at http://lccn.loc.gov/2015045564
ISBN 978-1-4767-6346-0
ISBN 978-1-4767-6348-4 (ebook)
Focus Page 50