Yesterday we had a most fatiguing march of nearly Thirty Miles thro' infamous Roads. It was dark before we reached our halting place, a miserable Village called Puente de Murcella, affording the most wretched Accommodation. My fears at Coimbra were here amply realised. We quitted the place at eight o'clock this Morning, and reached our halting place, Leyroza, at three in the Afternoon. It is almost deserted by the former Inhabitants, but we are much better off than last Night. The Scenery from Coimbra to this place is truly grand, and quite exceeds an adequate description of it. The Hills are immensely high, and the tops of the highest of them are covered with Snow. Below all has the appearance of Spring, from the extreme fineness of the weather, & from the immense quantity of wood about here, which is all of the evergreen Species.
12th. On the 7th the Regiment marched for Penascos, but the Cars with the Convalescents not having come up I remained behind for them. It was late in the Afternoon before they arrived, when I proceeded with them to another Village about half a league in advance called Gallicis. Here we halted for the Night, and a most uncomfortable Evening I passed. My Room was exposed to all the keenness of a North wind which blew with uncommon violence. I could not procure a spark of Fire, and not having an individual to speak to made the Evening appear still more cheerless. Early the following morning we set out for Penascos, a distance of four long leagues thro' a wretched Road. On arriving there I found that the original Route of the Regiment was at present changed, and that instead of going to Celerico they had proceeded to Melo, a smaller place about three Leagues from hence & the same distance from Celerico. My Evening at Penascos was spent somewhat more pleasantly than the former one, the Night being finer and my Room less exposed. I passed a couple of Hours in the perusal of a French Poem I procured at Coimbra, called Pitie, from the pen of De Lille. It does equal Credit to the Head and Heart of its Author.
I forgot to state a circumstance which came under my observation at Leyrosa. It was Sunday, and when the Priest had finished the last Mass he repaired with several of the principal Inhabitants to the House of one of them. A Table being prepared for the purpose, and a Pack of Cards produced, they commenced gambling with an eagerness and avidity I scarcely ever before witnessed.
On the 9th I proceeded to this place, (Melo), and joined my Regiment, where we still remain. It is conjectured that we shall not march from here till the whole of the Troops going forward shall have passed through Celerico, which will not be before the 15th Inst.
Majr. A. (with whom I have messed during the whole of the March) is in the House of the Bishop of Guarda, who frequently resides here. He is a man of the most dignified deportment and of a truly liberal Mind. He supplies us with the most sumptuous Breakfasts and Dinners, and insists that we shall not procure a single Article as long as we remain in this place. The House may more properly be called his Nephew's, who is a Colonel in the Portugueze Service. The Dinners are cooked by the Wife of the latter, who evinces the utmost anxiety lest they should not be dressed according to our liking. The Bishop's chief Servant lived a great many years with an English Merchant in Lisbon, by which means he is of infinite use in directing the good Lady how to serve up a dinner a la Mode Anglaise.
Jan. 16. As there was yesterday no probability of our soon quitting this place, and our good Friend the Bishop still insisted upon supplying our Table, I determined, notwithstanding the kind manner in which he pressed me to continue, to secede from his House, and eat my Mutton Chop in my own Quarters, which resolution 1 accordingly put into execution. An Order however is just arrived for us to be in readiness to march at a Moment's Notice, and it is hinted we shall proceed to our original destination (Celerico) the Day after to-morrow. This place is about two hundred and fifty miles from Olivenza, and Celerico is about twelve Miles from hence. The Weather during our March was with the exception of one Day extremely fine. Since our arrival here it has almost constantly rained. To-day however it has cleared up, and promises to be fine. We may therefore be considered as extremely fortunate. The Enemy are advancing; their Out Posts and our own are now very near each other. We may daily expect to hear of skirmishing, which must soon be followed by a general Engagement. The late Move of the Army has contributed very much to decrease the Sickness that so generally prevailed in it before.
20th. On the 18th we marched from Melo to Celerico. On our arrival there were surprised to find our Route still further extended to Guarda, one day's march in advance of Celerico, where we remain and are likely to remain, for some time. Guarda is said to be the highest City in Europe. The ascent to it from Celerico commences about a League from hence, and is extremely steep. About half way up the Hill we found ourselves amongst snow, which, we observed, increased in depth as we advanced to the Summit. Here we were enveloped in it. The cold is intense, not less severe than in the Northern parts of England; notwithstanding the Inhabitants are not more provided against it within doors than if it did not exist. There is not a fireplace in any of the Houses with the exception of the Kitchen. The only means of guarding against the cold are the Pans containing Charcoal, and these are frequently not to be used without at the same time having the windows open, on account of the pernicious tendency they possess in producing Head Aches.
A day or two since a Party of our Dragoons observed about thirty French Cavalry skirmishing near the Frontier; they did not sufficiently approach each other to come to blows. The Main Body of the Army must remain inactive for some time yet, the severity of the weather precluding the possibility of undertaking any military operations.
28th. We received certain accounts yesterday that the French are not making any demonstration of an intention to advance, nor does it appear that they have lately received any reinforcements. A large Fleet of Transports with Troops passed Oporto for Lisbon on the 12th Inst. and must have reached the latter place ere this.
We are at present inundated with reports. It is said that there is an insurrection in the South of France, headed by Madame Buonoparté (that Lady having been divorced), and aided by Talleyrand and Massena, and that in consequence the French Army is retreating from Spain. This piece of intelligence comes from the Duque del Parque, but very little credit is attached to it. Another rumour states that the French in endeavouring to force the passes of the Sierra Morena have been completely defeated by the Army under General Blake. Certain it is that there is an unaccountable inactivity amongst the Enemy. The utmost energy at the same time prevails both with the Spaniards and Portugueze in the organising of new levies, manufacturing of Arms, and fortifying of Cities, Passes, &c., &c. Notwithstanding the immense shock they look forward to from the power of France being likely to be concentrated against them, they anticipate more confidently than ever an eventual Triumph; and I observe likewise that many English Officers, who a few weeks back gave up the cause as entirely lost, now entertain an opinion that they may ultimately succeed. For my own part I have a much more favourable sentiment of the issue than I had at the period of our quitting Olivenza.
FEBRUARY
Febry 2nd. It is said that the French are advancing into Portugal by way of Badajos and Elvas, and that their advance has actually reached Merida. Should this account prove correct, we shall most probably be compelled to measure back our steps in order to protect the Capital. Lord Wellington left Head-Quarters a Day or two since to proceed in that direction. The last English Newspapers concur in stating that he is to go out to India with full power to settle, if possible, the unhappy differences at present prevailing there. He is so completely idolized by the Portuguese, that I am confident his removal from the chief Command in this Country will excite more despondency among them than the loss of a general engagement. We have accts. of three hundred men having embarked to join our Battalion; which .will render us so completely effective, that, whether affairs are soon brought to a termination or not in this Country, there is no prospect of our returning to England, as we shall doubtless be employed on some other Service. In the present critical and unsettled state of affairs
it is impossible to conjecture where we may next be sent to serve; the Mediterranean, India, or North America, it may be, will prove our destination. For my own part, so that our expatriation does not exceed three or four years, I care little where we go. The Mediterranean would certainly be the most pleasant, and India the most profitable. With respect to America I should have no other satisfaction in going there, than in the hopes of witnessing the chastisement they so richly deserve for their perfidious treatment to Great Britain, and their unnatural connexion with France.
I this day complete my twenty eighth year. An event of this kind cannot fail to produce in any mind in the least tinctured with humility many mortifying reflections. In ruminating over the years that are for ever gone past, the best of us have abundant cause of self-abasement in the recollection— to use the words of the Poet—" Of times misspent and fair occasions gone for ever by." Happy are those, who having learnt at length justly to appreciate the value of time, not only form sincere resolutions of not hereafter misspending it, but conscientiously and fully fulfil those resolutions. For my own part I look back with painful regret on the many, many hours I have myself passed without improvement, and while I resolve from henceforth to value it with a warmth proportionate to its worth I fear lest each succeeding year should make my retrospect still more painful. I look however with resignation for the assistance promised from above, feeling as I do so strongly the imperfection of Human Nature that without the Divine Aid I should tremble to be a partaker of it.
12th. Affairs are again putting on a bad aspect. It is confirmed beyond all doubt that the Enemy have forced the Passes of the Sierra Morena and that Seville is in their possession. Three Regiments just arrived at Lisbon from England, together with the 87th, who were on Garrison Duty there, sailed at three hours' Notice to assist the Spaniards at Cadiz in the protection of that place, and also to prevent the Fleet from falling into the hands of the Enemy. In the meantime we learn that the French are assembling in great force in the Neighbourhood of Salamanca, obviously with the intention of attacking us. It is morally impossible that we t FEB -3 can remain long in our present position, our right and left Flank being both open to the Enemy. Lord Wellington is at present at Lisbon, concerting, it is supposed, with the Regency means for the defence of the Capital. The King's Speech, received a few days ago, renders it plain that this Country is not to be abandoned without a struggle. From the very serious defeats the Spaniards have recently sustained it is impossible not to look forward with more of fear than hope. The iniquities of this People are certainly at their height, & I feel convinced that the Judgments of God are upon them; when the Cup of His wrath shall be poured out, our finite understandings leave us no means of knowing; it will be happy for those Countries who have been hitherto exempt from the horrors of War—among which England stands eminently blessed—if they will take warnings from the afflictions of others, and not provoke too far the long suffering of the Almighty. I have myself no more doubt that these People are at present visited for their Iniquities, than I have that the Jews were formerly for the same cause. It is certain however that they regard not their Calamities in this light; on the contrary in their own Eyes theirs are the only Countries where God may be said to be truly worshipped. During my several visits to Catholic Kingdoms I have constantly observed the impression made on the Minds I have been most intimate with by the Religion they profess, and with a truth equal to the solemn occasion I can affirm I have never met with one whose heart appeared to be touched with a coal from the Holy Altar of God. As I have before observed, the Sabbath is wholly disregarded by them, or, if remembered, it is only as a Day when buying, selling, gaming, and other Amusements are pursued with more than common Avidity: indeed so completely is this Holy Day prostituted that I see no means left them but expunging from the Decalogue the fourth Commandment in the same manner they have long since done the second. For every species of wickedness the Town [where] I am writing is eminently perspicuous: Common decency while performing their most solemn Services is not to be observed; the most disgusting levity, even while burying the Dead, is constantly practised—I mean by the Priests themselves. These Men in conversation allow themselves a latitude, or rather, licentiousness, only to be credited by those who have heard them. Even in a Convent of Nuns here, in a place and by a People solemnly devoted to the Service of God, Conversations daily take place between them and (I am ashamed to say,) certain British Officers, from which the most abandoned women in England would turn away with disgust. In this place Chastity in women is scarcely considered a virtue, and it is notorious that nine-tenths of the seductions are traced to the Clergy; yet these men continue notwithstanding to possess an unbounded influence over the minds of the other Orders of the People; and so they will continue to do, till by the inscrutable, but sure, operations of the Almighty a pure Religion is introduced among them, and the present system of Idolatry is for ever abolished. That the successes of the French are contributing to this great end I have no doubt, and contemplating the present extraordinary state of Affairs in a moral view, I look upon Buonoparté, notwithstanding his unworthiness, as an Instrument in the Hand of Providence for the completion of this great work. His antipathy to Convents and Monks is notorious, and as he extends his Conquests he goes on annihilating these Institutions regarding them, (as I do) in the light of Hotbeds of Iniquity. I consider this as no small step gained; and as he likewise permits men to think for themselves in matters of Religion, from which they have been hitherto debarred, I think it may be reasonably expected that an emancipation from the Shackles in which they have so long been held is a circumstance likely to flow naturally from the change this freedom will introduce into Men's Minds. This subject has occupied me much within these few last days; and it is under this view of it that I think it even desirable that the French should eventually succeed in subjugating Spain and Portugal.
13th. The Enemy have made an advance of four Leagues. They are at present about two Leagues on the other side of Ciudad Rodrigo, with the intention, it is supposed, of making an attack on that place. The Inhabitants of Guarda are in the utmost state of Consternation. Lord Wellington's absence they consider as the greatest possible Misfortune that could happen at this juncture. His Name is with them quite a Host of itself. They know by sad experience what it is to be visited by the French. They were here for a few days, and during that time they laid the People under very heavy contributions: besides which their general Conduct was brutal and ferocious in the extreme.
21st. The Enemy advanced, as was supposed would be the case, upon Ciudad Rodrigo, and after throwing a few Shots & Shells into the place retired to their former Positions. This movement, it is suspected, was merely intended to keep us on the alert here, and prevent our making any Motions to impede whatever other objects they may have in view in other places. It appears certain that Badajos is invested, & that the French have possessed themselves of Olivenza. General Hill with his Division has marched from Abrantes, but whether to relieve Badajos or to cover the retreat of the Sick from Elvas is not known. From the Enemy pushing forward in so many different directions it is generally and naturally supposed they have received large Reinforcements. We hear they were admitted into Seville, not only without resistance, but with every apparent mark of Satisfaction. On mentioning this to a Portugueze, he exclaims "What can you expect from Spaniards?" In the mean time we are expecting here that these circumstances must soon lead to an evacuation of the Peninsula, tho' from the determined Character of Lord Wellington it is expected he will dispute every inch of the Ground. The Troops in general continue very healthy. What few Sick there are are sent weekly to Coimbra, in order that the Army may be left to act free and unincumbered. As a precautionary measure the whole of the heavy Baggage has been embarked at Lisbon.
The Weather continues excessively cold, and we are informed that the Snow and Frost prevail here till the middle of June. The Inhabitants say that the only tolerably fine time of the Year here is in the Months of August and Se
ptember. Perhaps as a residence it is one of the most unpleasant Situations in Europe; its extreme height renders it very inconvenient for taking exercise on Horseback, and its extreme dirtiness makes it as unpleasant to take exercise on Foot.
MARCH
March 3. Nothing particular has occurred within these few Days. The Enemy remains at Salamanca, and there is reason to believe they have not been reinforced. It is rumoured with some degree of confidence that they lost three thousand Men in an Attack upon Cadiz, but there are so many reports constantly going about that it is impossible to know what to believe. A few Evenings since there was some skirmishing between a small party of our Riflemen & about two hundred French. The latter left four dead; we had not a Man hurt.
The Journal of an Army Surgeon Page 4