by Win Blevins
5 the sun arose through a thick fog the forenoon was however pleasant Lighgt showers hovered around all the afternoon to the west and south rode out over some beautifull hills well calculated for pasture land and Exhibiting a beautifull veriety of Scenery the greate veriety however is to be had in many places in this country and had nature given this vally a pleasant climate no country in the known world could compare with it for rural sceenery when the vallies shall become grain fields and the hills covered with flocks and herds of Domestic animals
6 Drizling rain fell during the night and still continues this morning 5 men and one woman & three children arived at our camp During the day rode out up the vally and mounted an imenence from which we had a large and magnificent view of the vally and lower mountains the uper mountain being covered in clouds and rain returned to camp over beautiful farming and pasture lands observed quantities of wild pigions feeding on the grass seeds several kinds of which are fully ripe
7 Light showers of rain fell in various directions around us but none on us during the fore noon our party continues collecting and we have a fair prspect of making a regular start Tomorrow on our trip to california
Tell Everhart to Bring ¼lb Tea and 6 lb sugar
Oregon Territory March the 21 [1845]
2 saddle Blankets
5 lb Lead 1 do Powder
5 lb Coffee 10 do sugar
3 Trail Ropes
1 Pair Pants
Leading Cords
Cooking utensils
Linnen for bags & sacks
Leather for hopples
Mockasins & soals &c
Soap Fr John 2 lb rice
5 lb sugar
1 Hankf Blank Book
POESY BY A NATIVE
The Firrs their length their Extreme hight
As yet remains in doubt
But Tradition throws an obscur light
That many had grown Quite out of sight
Ere Hood Began to Sprout
AN ADDRESS TO MOUNT HOOD
Say mighty peak of tremendious hight
What brot you forth to etherial light
From Earths inmost deepest woomb
Was central earth so Jamd. so pent
That thou arose to give it vent
Or for some other purpose sent
A Monumental Tomb
To shew that once in Licqid heat
The Earth had flowed a burning sheet
Of melted wavering fire
That animation Flaming lay
A molten Mixed wase rocks and clay
When thou a bubble rose to play
Above the funeral pyre
Chapter 12
Notebook Five (1845)—On the Oregon-California Trail
William Wolfscale [Wolfskill]
in the Town of Purbelo [Pueblo of Los Angeles]
John Warner same Place
Lemuel J Carpenter
DIRECTIONS BY MR [JOEL P.] WALKER
Be carefull to never camp in the timber if it can be avoided. Be carefull to never Let any Indians come amongt you Never Lit the Indian have any amunition on any account Keep careful watch both day and night Never neglect camp guard on any account
Never Fire a gun after (after) crossing the Umqua mountain untill you cross the siskiew mountain perhaps Five days travel Keep yourselves close as possible in traveling through the Brush
Never scatter after game or [make] any other division
Keep your guns the best firing condition
Sunday June the 8th 1845 – Cloudy –
Made a finale start for California our company consisting of 35 men one woman and three children Left four men at camp hunting for a Lost Horse which ran away this morning in a fright
Passed over a fine undulating country handsomely and thickly clothed with grass some haveing the appeareance of rye and timothy all kinds However covered in seed which [is] rather remarkable for it is well Known to all the western states that but fewe of Prarie grasses ever bears seed
Here all the grasses are laden down with seed and those grown in the oak Hills the more certain Had a view of mount Jefferson clothed in everlasting winter which has grown into an extensive mountain of considerable length The clouds blew of[f] and the sun shone out as we passed through oak groves In the Evening the 4 men left to Hunt the lost animal came up haveing found the Horse making our paty 39 men strong the day proved pleasant made 10 miles and Encamped on a small Brook about 4 miles from the Willhamet our path lea[d]ing close to the Killamook
9 Morning Clear the sun arose in splended majisty over the snowy peaks of Mount Jefferson The vally covered in dew like a rain passed through some beautifull country for farming and Likewise some very wet land early in the Day we came to a small river supposed to be the Tom Beoff [Long Tom] found it not fordable but after meandering up the stream some 4 miles when we found a deep ford after some plunging and swiming we all passed safely over but we soon found that we had numerous branches of the same stream yet to pass all of which ware deep and difficult to ford one point on the Killamook mountains shewed considerable of snow on its summit this peak stands near the gorge of the Tom Beoff and near the vally made about 16 miles a large Prarie lies East of our camp and it has a fine appearance at a distance Today we traveled through some fine grass lands which would be good for mowing if hay was necessary the vally on this side of the river dose not exceede 10 miles wide
10 Clear Left our camp at 8 oclock passed some fine Prarie lands and continued up the south Branch of Tom Beoff a dull muddy stream nearly Bank full and not fordable crossed several deep cammace swamps and several deep muddy Brances of the main stream with difficulty at length we cleared the Tom Beoff intirely and assended the long slope of a ridge had a few miles of pleasant traveling the ridge was thinly clad with oak and pine our rout still lying near the Killimook mountains we not being able to travel in the main vally on account of highness of the waters
The country we passed to day is deep red clay on the hills the vallys being low and mostly wet The dry vally land however is verry rich Timber shrubby oak and pine and Firr passed severall beautefull round mounds standing in the main vally I cannot conjecture how [they] came to occupy such sittuations unless at some distant period this vally formed a Lake
Made 20 miles and incamped on a deep dirty small river
11 The day proved clear and fine and it was all that was pleasant during the day after leaving our low over flown camp we soon passed into a dirty mirey pomd for nearly a mile Belly deep to our hight from which we had a view of nealy all of the upper Willhamet vally and from apearances seven Eights of the level vally was overflown during the winters rains continued up a small river our course a little west of south made an etempt to pass over the creek and gain another trail more easterly with considerable difficulty we succeeded to cross the stream after getting over to our disapountment we foud our selves on a low sunken Island surrounded by Byous and shoughs and ware forced to cross back again through the same miry ford— continued our course up the stream through mud and mire a low pine ridge to our right and large extensive marsh to our left noticed a speces of Black oak to day made 10 miles and encamped on a low pine Bluff near the river
12 after a full examination of the Primises it was determined to carry all our Baggage over the stream on dift [driftwood] near our camp and take our animals about Four miles up the stream and then swim them over it being the nearest place that could be found whare our horses could get either in or out in a few hours we ware all packed up and on our way from swamp river passed several miles of Pine plain and came to another dirty creek here we again had to unpack and carry on a log the stream being to deep and miry for horses to pass with packs on once more under way we entered the hills to our greate Joy being completely sick of level marshes and overflown vallies. the hills as usual in oregon are covered with fine nutricious grass groves of shrubby oak and fine firr in places made about 15 miles and encamped in the hills a small party of Klickitats going north came to our camp while we w
are unpacking our animals hills and mountains have allways been pleasant to me but I think the hills at this time are unusualy pleasant our course to day being a little East of south
“a view of Mount Hood Mount Jefferson
and five other snowy pinicles”
13 From a hill near our camp last night I had a view of Mount Hood Mount Jefferson and five other snowy pinicles south and east of Mount Jefferson as likewise the umpequaw mountains crossing our path to the South Packed up and moved on the trail up the creek after passing a few miles of open hill coumntry we came to a small creek over which we found a (a) good and safe Bridge crossed over and immediately assended the Kalapooya mountain this mountain is thickly covered with Firr and ceader timber and underbrush of hazel dogwood and other Brush
This ridge is not high but is verry steep in many places and Formed intirely of clay based on a soft rotten Bassalt rock seen in averry few places only the cedar of this country is of a large and verry fine discription made 22 miles and encamped in a narrow vally on one of the branches of the umquaw and near the entrance of the umquaw vally the country so far appears to be much dryer than [the] vally on the north of the mountains
14 Clear and still the smoke curling around the half bar Hills which seem to be covered in Black taild deer Took the Trail again soon crossed the Elk creek a stream about 30 yards wide clear gravely bottom and sandy Banks the first we have seen since we crossed Rickreole this stream runs to the S.W. and empties into the Umpquaw Prarie vallies seem to open out immediately below the ford assendid up the stream and up a steep brushy ridge but soon entered a beautifull little vally streching away south Passed on to the head of the vally crossed several ridges all covered more or less in shrubby oak and Firr timber and well grassed.
This vally is quite uneven so far and much more dry than the willhamet vally and equally well timberd. and well stored with game such as deer Elk and Bear during our progress to day we saw anumber of Indians peeping over the hills and viewing us as we passed Made 18 miles and encamped at the Fork of a small creek this appears to be a common encampment for all the travelers to and from California numerous ridges may be seen running in all directions through this part of the vally
15 A number of Indians came to our camp late last night and remained in camp during the night of the Kalapooya and Umpquaw tribes made an early start soon crossed a considerable creek running westward pased through an uneven vally frequently rising up into mountains at 11 came to the umpquaw river arapid stream about 100 yards wide clear and cool with a solid rock bottom the [banks] rising into mountains in many places from the waters edge Hired an Indian with his canoe to ferry our bagage over this task he performed to our satisfaction all got safely over and encamped on the south side of the stream on the open Prarie as this method of encampment is much the most safe for a Party as large as ours being able to defend ourselves best on the Praries or whare the enemy would be exposed in making an attact mad about 10 miles Two Indians remained in camp last night
“a thick impenetrable forest
of lofty timber”
16 Before leaveing the umpquaw I might remark that the Hudson Bay company have a trading house some 20 miles below whare a small profitable trade is carried on From Information this stream bars the same character from Its sources in the snowy butes of the cascades that is going Pitching and Tumbling through the rock untill within some 40 miles of its mouth (its waters being nearly doubled) when it becomes still and moves slowly and Quietly to the ocean through a thick impenetrable forest of lofty timber the Praries tirminating whare the rapids cease in abot one hours travel we reached the south Branch of umpquaw a rapid stream much resembling the main river passed up over some steep Bluffs which raise into mountains the river winding and curving amongst the rocks and Hills the most bear of Timber which are low the higher covered in oak and Firr some Beautifull vallies are found that look allmost like enchantment the rapid little river Tumbling along one side rounded Hills of oak softining down to a vally bounding the others all covered in grass and flowers all wild as natures dream and covered with the light bounding deer Made 16 miles
17 Lift our camp on the river and proceeded up through a rough ruged country passed several cliffs of rock closing down to the waters edge saw the blackned carcase of a dead Indian lying raped up in his old worn deer skin habliments after considerable winding and turning around hills and pricepces we reached a beautifull level rich but small vally lying on both sides of the river some 4 miles in length and ½ mile wide reaching the head of the vally the mountains closed in so that we had to ford the river three times in less than two miles the first and second fords ware deep the water rapid and the bottom rocky so that nearly all our packs got more or les wet about three oclock we encamped at the foot of the umpquaw mountains having made 16 miles this mountain looks steep and ruged saw a greate veriety of beautifull flowers in passing through this vally if vally it can be fairly called. saw several Beautifull young fawns lying in the grass during the day which did not move by being handled
18 arose early we now have to enter the continual war nations of Indians that inhabit the whole extent of country between here and California as son as packed we got on the trail and commenced assending the mountain by the way of following a dim trail up the steep bluffs and winding around decliveties of (of) the mountain after much fatiegue and labour we assended the tumbling mountain torrent untill [it] branched into several smaller streams when we assended the Point of a mountain nearly perpendicular about a mile high traversed its narrow winding summit a short distance and again decended crossed a small mountain brook and scaled another mountain full as steep as the first but not so high followed around through brush and logs a few miles and again desended to a fine small prarie whare we encamped having traveled 15 miles of unaccontable tiresome difficult road over a high steep mountain covered with brush and logs likewise firr and ceedar timber the streams run through a rocky channel but no rock is found near the summit of the ridges
19 clear & warm passed down a handsome Brook with a narrow Prarie vally running down the north side about 6 miles crossd. the Brook and immediately took [up] the mountain steep ruged and Brushy this ridge has several snowdrifts yit visable on its summit a short distance South of the trail The desent was not Quite so steep crossed a small Brook and assended another mountain not Quite so high as the first but verry difficult on account of the logs and undergrothe some parts of these mountains have Beautifull groves of Pine Firr and cedar but apparantly to remote to be usefull Partially desended the second to a small cove and then mounted a third high ridge at the bottom of which opens a small vally of handsome Prarie whare we encamped haveing made about 17 miles the first six miles being nearly west the latter part S and S.W. deer dose not appear to be abundant
“We reached the Clamet or Rogues River”
20 Immedeately after leaving camp we assended a mountain of no greate elevation but verry brushy and steep immediatly on the summit the open country commenced with Pine openings and a lengthy desent of dry hard gravelly soil which continued untill we reached the river on the whole the country is rough poor and fobined [forbidding?] and of little account even the savages that inhabit this region find a scanty subsistanc there being but few roots which are so abundant in the willhamette vally on our rout to day we saw 4 or 5 squaws hunting after roots which ware much serprised to se us so unexpectedly early in the afternoon we reached the Clamet or Rogues River and a number of the savagers came to our camp but as a matter of safety we would not permit them into camp Made 14 miles severa[l] men went to Examin the river only a short distance ahead several parties came to our camp and made ever effort and divise to come into camp and nothing short of a cocked rifle would prevent them However we succeeded to keep them back without violence and they sung their war songs in hearing of our camp all night
Made 16 mile
21 Early we ware on the move the Indians close in the rear we soon unpacked on the bank of Rogues River this stream is about 100 yards wid
e running Rapid over a generally rocky Bottom the country we passed over was generally poor gravelly hard and dry the vally narrow and uneven the mountains dry parched and covered with shrubby pine and several kinds of evergreen shrubbery some of a beautifull appearance and would grace a walk in any city – we hired two Indians and their canoes who soon forried us over the river while we stood with our guns in our hands for our defence about 2 in the afternoon we passed a narrow point of rocks Juting in neare the Rivir Capt [Green] McMahon and seven or eighht men went ahead and Examined the primises but found no danger lurking there our course to day has been East or nearly so up the South side of the river which came tumbling down impeteously so far the vally of this stream is thinly covered in pine cedar and oak a new speeces of pine is found here haveing sweet turpentin oozeing forom it
22 Immediately above our camp the [river] passes out from between two high mountains and tumbles down several falls and rapids our trail here left the course of the river and we moved of[f] Easterly up a narro vally which soon brot us in sight of a Beautiful vally in which two branches of the rive[r] seem to form a Junction and Likewise in sight of several snowy peak one nearly east is High round & and sharp with snow a long way down its sides and a Table rock of considerabl Hight the top level and [said] to contain an Indian vilage this is doubtful but it may be a place of safety in seasons of danger Eastwardly up this vally we proceeded and four of us that ware ahead missing the rout rode near the mountain when 4 Natives were discovered to our left we made chase and soon overtook them in the channel of a dry Brook whare they crouched down and gave up to be shot as they expected nothing less they proved to be an old woman two boys and one fine little girl Mr Frazier dismounted and gave the girl a biscuit who took it but as soon as we moved our horses so that they had an open way they took to there heels again and we rode on the vally still widening and ranges of the wildes[t] and most beautiful Hill[s] bounded the North side of the vally these hills rise in a succession of rounded Knolls one above another generally covered in grass but one or two clifs of rock make their appearance traveled about 20 miles and encamped on a small brook haveing several snow drifts in sight toward the south