by Win Blevins
“the natives are still
around our encampment nearly naked”
3 Proceeded on Early about 4 miles to a fine vally of green grass whare we unpacked again for the day to give our animals a chance to recruit after their long and hard fatiegue several showers of snow fell during the morning and the day was cool and Blustring with the drifts of snow several natives have been about our camp and appear to be friendly they are a poor race and their country is poorly supplied with game and [they] manufacture a kind [of] robe of Rabbit skins which they cut into small stripes and weave them togather with the lint of some kind of weeds from which they Likewis make ropes for snares and fishing tackel in the evening it commenced snowing rapedly and the snofell several inches deep so you may imagin that we spent no verry comfortable night it slaked up toward morning This if vally it may be called is Quite uneven and generally covered in pine timber not of the best Quality Here likewise we saw large camace marshes on which the natives at this season of the [year] Exist mostly in a raw state
4 as the snow covered all the grass we packed and ware early on the way crossed Quite a large creek [Little Truckee] which has been called wind River a tributary of Truckeys River and proceeded to cross a considerable of a ridge and desended again into a small rich vally 8 miles from our former encampment the natives are still around our encampment nearly naked and do not seem to complain of cold allthough we can hardly get clothes enough on us to keep ourselves comfortable about noon the sun shone out a few minuets which desolved the most of the new fallen snow in southerm exposures but the evening was verry cold and wind[y] with some few flakes of fine snow but considerable snow fell on the mountains only a few miles from us—The tribe we are now passing through call themselves as well as understood Washee [Washoe]
5 A cool night proceeded S Easteerly about 4 miles and came to the main Truckies River [north of present Verdi] whare it first leaves the timbred mountains and Enters the open Bald hills which would be mountains in any other country The river is about 40 yards wide and falls rapidly over a rough rocky bed the weather cloudy cool and a strong west wind continually blowing to day for the first since we set out no snow is to be seen ahead but any Quantity is to be seen a little to the south of our rout continued down the valy of the River 6 miles and encamped in a fine vally of Excelent grass one aged native followed us from our Last encampment and seems to have greate attatchment for us or for the provisions that he can beg the chasm that Truckies River runs in for it cannot be caled a vally is verry rocky mostly of small sized stones all granite or Baysalt with various mixtures
6 proceeded down the river crossing and takeing the South side at about 8 miles we came to a deep muddy Brook [Steamboat Creek, east of Reno] running through a handsome prairie vally went up the Brook about 3 miles before we found a crossing passed down along side of a steep volcanick mountain shewing immence Quantities of rough slagg and other vitrified matter entered the last Kenyon and passed down to a small vally whare stoped for the night the day was extremely rough and windy the wind Blowing from the S. W. so strong that it nearly blew some of the Ladies from their saddles and we could see that the mountains behind us experienced an awfull snow storm while we ware nearly blest with sunshine a feew spits of snow and rain fell on us and we suffered from the cold. our course a little N of E. 12 miles
7 A little before day it began to snow and snowed rapidly untill about noon haveing a bad camp for our animals we packed up and moved on down the river about 6 miles it continued to snow all the way but finding better pasture we stoped all our progress yestarday and to day the mountains on Either side are bare of timber verry high and ruged mostly composed of Baysalt, Granite and an occasional ridge of rough slate we have seen no game larger than a rabbit and but verry few of them about one oclock the sun broke out and the snow soon disappeared in the [v]allies (afternoon) continued down the south side of the river. verry high rounded bluff and in fact mountains approach so near that we had to assend one of them 1½ miles of steep assent [south of Pond Peak] brought us to the top immediately desended again to the river and continued down encamped at sun set emmidst the most subbime specimens of volcanic mountains all rounded and made up of all colours and hues from brick red to chalk white 13 miles today
8 After unpacking our horses some one of our party examined a floating Fishing machien that lay a fuw steps from us moored in the river and (and) found an old Indian that had been in managing his fishing spears when we rode up and was so frightened that it was with some difficulty that we coaxed him out after some [delay] however he gained courage and came out and slept with us during the night this morning he made us a present of several beautifull large salmon Trout and we [left] him to persue his fishing again unmolested
Persued our way doun the river about 6 miles to whare we leave to cross the plains for the sink of Marys river here Truckies river makes a great bend turning nearly N and falls into a lake [Pyramid Lake] at some 12 miles distant the day is Quite cold with a strong N. W. wind vegetation Just begining to spring and many places the willow scarcely shews the bud
“a cauldron of boiling water”
The several parties which have passed through this region have each given this stream a different name Truckies River and Salmon Trout River But as the tribe of natives inhabiting this stream and the ajacent country call themselves the Waushew tribe or nation I think it would [be] crrect to call the stream by the same name viz Waushee River
9 Struck of to the East leaveing the River to take it course north soon came near the pount of a low range of Black volcanic mountains and observed numerous specimins of rock formed by concreeton from spring that must have existed many years since in fact all the country passed through to day has at some distant period been one immence boiling caldron and is now strewed over with some thousands of upright rocks which have been onc immence projectors of Liquid steam and have discharged immence Quantities of mud which now fills the whole plain over which we passd. and several miles perhaps 8 of this days travel was over a white sheet of salt incrusted passed over and in sight of Large beds of Chalk Likewise which has been involved in Boiling water a low rang of Black slagg lay to our left all day of the moste thirsty sterile appearance near sun set we stoped at some holes of Brackish water haveing traveled 30 miles to day at about 15 miles or half way from Waushee [Truckee] river to the first water near Mays. Lake still exist a cauldron of Boiling water no stream isues from it [at] present but it stands in several pools Boiling and again disappearing some of these pools have beautifull clear water Boiling in them and other emit Quantites of mud into one of these muddy pools my little water spaniel Lucky went poor fellow not knowing that it was Boiling hot he deliberately walked in to the caldron to slake his thirst and cool his limbs when to his sad disappointment and my sorrow he scalded himself allmost insantly to death I felt more for his loss than any other animal I ever lost in my life as he had been my constant companion in all my wandering since I Left Milwawkee and I vainly hoped to see him return to his old master in his native village (But such is nature of all earthy hopes) for several miles back we had been traveling over the bed of a former Lake which to all appearanc has not been dry more than 10 or 15 years and now forms a salt plain and how far to the South it extends I canot tell
Eastward to Missouri
[May] 10 [1846] again under way and (on) rather a singular road we had mostly over a bear salt plain which had a few years since been covered in water and costituted Ogdens [Humboldt] Lake which no doubt when Mr Ogden visited this region some 25 [18] years since was Quite a large Lak but shallow now nearly dried up and from appearances will in a few years more intirely disappear and become the most dry thirsty [spot] imaginable as that portion which has now dried off will plainly indicate Nearly the whole of our days travel 20 miles to day and a part of yestarday was evidently under water but a few yares since now at this time Marys [Humboldt] river sinks and disappears intirely some 8 or 10 miles above the small shallow pond know as Ogdens Lake and this wh
ole region is now intirely dried up and has the most thirsty appearance of any place I ever witnessed The whole of several large vallies is covered in a verry fin clay or mud which has vimited from the bowels of the earth mixed with scalding water from the immence cauldrons of heat below
11 want of space has prevented me from noting that several Lengthy ranges of mountains are visible and in particular to the East [Humboldt Range] whose tops are covered in snow one Likewise in the S. allso N. E. all appearanty seperatee and distinct. allso that we changed our course from E. to nearly N on our arival at ogdens, Lake
Continued up the valy of marys river passed over Quantities of concreete rocks of various curious shapes and Sizes the mountains that bound this vally are all of vitrified rock of various hues but mostly of dark red and brown the whole of the vally is composed [of] whiteish volcanic mud and bears no vegitation except a hard thorny shub called by voyagers grease wood and this species seems to thrive without moisture at 10 miles we struck the River a small stream not more than 20 yards wide running in a deep channel of fine clay and the water completely saturated with this same mud as thick or thicker than the Misouri in a freshet to day the snow seemed to disappear rapidly on the mountain in front of our camp none of the highlans bear any vegitation
12 still up the River over one of the most Steril Barren countrys I ever traversed the hills and mountains producing no kind of vegitation and the more elevated part of the vally bearing nothing but a small shrubby thorn and not even moist enough to poduce the much dispised wild sage from all appearancees their has not fallen any rain or snow since the california emigration passed here last September except a light shower of snow that has fallen a few days since and still remains on the mountain in nearly all directions the grass has made but a feeble start and our animals fare verry poorly the willows have not yet buded and the earth is so parched that we are all day covered in a cloud of dust allmost sufficating to pass through and the water is Likewise poor when obtained as there is none at all Except in the river and the banks are so steep and high that few places can be found to desend to [it] 25 [miles]
13 Early under way continued up the River the sun arose as usual without a speck of cloud or mist for bothe appear to be allmost unknown to this region here the river which hitherto has been coming all most drect from the north makes a bend and comes more Eastwardly the vally [contains] the same volcanic mud now become more dry and allmost as loose as ashes at about 6 miles we came to a fine vally of grass [Lassen’s Meadows] and umpacked to let our animals graze a Large vally seem[s] to run a great distance north waard The water in the River is much clearer than whare we first struck it below and as earthe is much dryer so also it is much Looser in as much that our animals many timis sink up to their knees in the dry earth our whole company now Togather consists of 19 men and boys 3 women and 2 children and about 150 mules and Horses too many for this rout at so early a season of the year as the grass has Just began to shoot and is yet young and short and we will probably devide our company in a few days
“perfectly Barren and Sterile is this region
of volcanic matter that scarcely a bird is heard”
14 up the River on an nearly E direction to day 25 miles with a nearly Exact sameness two large vallies seem to spread themselves one to the North and the other to the South passing between two mountains composed of Black slag the most Easterly ridge [Sonoma Range] is covered in snow near the tops But allthough their appears to be a considerable depth of snow on several of these mountains now it would seem thawing off rapidly yet so thirsty is the sides and so greate the evaporation that not a drop of water reaches the vally severall Horses gave out to day and from the appearance of many others I begin to conclude that californea Horses are not a hardy race of animals So perfectly Barren and sterile is this region of volcanic matter that scarcely a bird is heard to chirp to the rising Sun and not even the signe of an animal Except Rabbits ever ventures to make a precarious subsistance on these plains a strong South wind is blowing and some thin streaks of clouds are seen gathering around
15 Still up the River after afeew Hours ride we chnged our course nearly East for some miles and our whole course to day has perhaps nearly N. E. the same appearances as to soil [as] usual However to day we passed several sand drifts no Timber has yet been seen in any part of the high or Lowlans Bordering on this stream except willow and a few other shrebs of verry Stinted groth the same want of moisture still continues and the Travelling is extremely dusty espicially to day as we had an aft wind (as the Sailors say) Travel to day about 22 miles From all appearances this River has overflowed it[s] banks and flooded all the vally as the low ground still indicates by a feeble groth of Bull rushes water flags and other vegitables know[n] to marsh lands as like wise the old stals of large weeds on the plains but at present very little grass and no weeds are seen
“the sun was completely obscured all afternoon”
16 Continued up in an E. & S. E. course [Big Bend of the Humboldt] on the South side of the River 30 miles a few miles from our Last camp we passed a groupe Boiling springs [Golconda] near ½ a mile S. of the Trail passed a range of low slate mountains [Osgood Mountains] thorugh which the river passes and makes a Large bend to the South and a large vally extinding bothe sides of the river nearly all of which however is covered in many places several inches thick in a white saline crust nearly strong enough to bear the weight of a man and in most other places shrubby stoots of Prarie thorn know[n] by the tra[v]elers in this region as grease wood passed one Slough of standing water the first I have seen since traveling the stream Large vallies seem to extend in various directions to day bound on either side by mountains of Slag and Scorcia Soil volcanic mud or clay to so dry and loose that our animals sunk in up to their knees observed some willows begining to bud several days have [been] Quite smoky and it seem to increase allthough no fires are to be seen the whole of to day has [been] verry crooked but the earth is so dry that we can not ventur [any] cut off
“mud thrown from the bowels of the earth”
17 Passed up the full S E. 26 miles and encamped whare the river breakes between two Black slag hills [“Stony Point” of emigrants at end of Shoshone Mesa] which form nearly regular mountains N. and S. passed over several miles of saline matter in fact the highlands and mountains seem to be formed intirely of slag and scoria and the vallies of volcanic mud salt and soda the vegitation wild Sage and grease wood strong wind blew from the south during the fore noon but shifted to the west in the evening and blew up such a dust that the sun was completely obscured all the afternoon this would seem strang but no stranger than true for the vallies are composed of find mud thrown from the bowels of the earth in greate Quantites mixed with Boiling water and when left exposed to the weather for an unknown time the water being evaporated by the sun leaves this remarkable fine clay which is soft and fine flour whirlwinds and other strong currents of wind carry large Quantitees to a great hight resembling a white smoke which in times of dry weather and strong winds completely obscures the light and resembles thin light fog
18 Early under way the appearance of the county the same 30 miles First 10 miles East then S. E. The [day] was still and pleasant the valy Large grass short and none except near the water our animals begin to [find] hard travel and poor feed mountains the same Cinder and Slag many of them caped in snow and frost in the vally every night sine we commenced assending the river the rever pretty much the same except clearer and more swift no timber yet seen except willow confined to the margin of the stream the white saline matter not Quite so plenty. a high white snowey mountain [Ruby Dome] seen dead a head at some considerable distance Fresh tracks of Indians seen in the vicinity of camp and as I believe the first seen in passing up this stream they are not however supposed to be dangerous as they are probably shoshones devided our company on the 16 we haveing 8 men and 37 animals. Move ahead
19 In a few miles above our encampment (we) we the Trail leaves the River [east of Gravelly Ford] and assends a range of hi
lls or mountains of no greate elevation and mostly formed of clay and loose rock about half way across these hills is several springs of cool water crossed over and encamped in tolerable good grass for this season whole distance (16 miles) the rever passes through a Kenyon in these hill and is difficult for Horsemen to follow the stream across the river from our camp is a lot of warm springs [near Carlin] but the water does not run from them about Half a mile above our camp is [a] Beautifull running Brook of clear water [Maggie Creek] the first that the river receives from the [Humboldt] Lake upwards a distance of more than 200 miles which proves the dryness of this country and the xtreme thirstyness of the soil if soil it can be called that produces so stinted a groth of vegitation the river here is more than double as larg as it was whare we first struck it and the water nearly clear
20 Up the stream once more about 25 miles In about one hours ride we came to whare the river Breaks through a low ruged mountain [Carlin canyon] but as the water is yet low we had no difficulty in passing through by crossing the stream several times this mountain runs nearly N. & S. above it opens out in to a large vally again only a small part of any of the vally is stocked in grass and that neare the Stream all the afternoons travel was nearly N. & N E. a few miles below our camp on the South side of the river as a singular lot of Hot spring which boil and bubble like cauldron[s] and send off a large Quantity of hot water into the river which is only a feew rods from the springs
Some of the hills and mountains begin to shew a few stinted cedars on thier sides to day passed what I supposed to be the E Branch [South Fork] of Marys River comeing in through a deep Kenyon [Humboldt Canyon] from a range of snow capd mountains [Ruby Range] to the E of us