Lupine -“Creativity”
Chapter 8
“Mother, thank goodness you’ve come!” Claire rushed across the room. Her massive curls, more unruly than usual, escaped from her loose chignon, the tendrils curling around two measuring tapes draped across her shoulders. Pin cushions bulging with needles and straight pins encircled Claire’s slender wrists. “The jewelry of the working woman,” she said merrily as she reached out to embrace Constance with a mixture of relief and desperation. “You’ve brought the clan, I see. Excellent!”
“We’re all here except Belle and Ella. Belle had an appointment this morning. You can expect them later in the day.”
Constance cherished the momentary impression her daughter left upon her breast, before the young woman spun out and away to the other family members. It was always that way with Claire. As a young girl, her feet hardly touched the ground. Fascinated by color and movement even as an infant, those brilliant blue eyes would wander around the nursery, tracking the bands of light created by the leaded windows of the country house. Claire pursued her passions with an ardor that left no room for the ordinary. A true child of nature, she spent every spare moment of her youth outdoors. She captured butterflies and dragonflies, examining the intricate patterns of their wings before releasing the delicate wisps back into the air. She became an avid birdwatcher, trudging through fields with her binoculars slung around her neck. Her love of nature inspired her to take up drawing and painting. She wept over the beauty of rainbows, frustrated by her inability to replicate the exact transmutations of color that glorified misty skies after spring rains. Every available scrap of paper became a palette for Claire’s insatiable desire to realistically portray the movement and beauty of the world around her.
After Claire’s adventure, she began to experiment with fabric remnants donated by her father. She made small evening bags for Constance from scraps of cashmere and velvet, and used soft kid to make gloves trimmed with ruffles. Her tiny hands worked needle and thread with the precision of a skilled seamstress, and soon she was creating unique accessories of her own design. As she grew older, Claire began to design her own gowns and those of her friends. Her artistic flair and penchant for color attracted attention, and she discovered that customers were willing to pay for her creations. John Spencer left an inheritance for Claire and at twenty-two, she and her friend Pegs opened their shop, Trousseau, on Walnut Street, designing wedding gowns for wealthy patrons of Philadelphia society.
It was 1877 and women from good families simply did not work, much less own their own businesses, but Claire had learned a thing or two from her father. She was a shrewd businesswoman as well as a talented designer. By carefully managing her capital and successfully meeting her deadlines, she had established an impeccable reputation and now employed a full time accountant, two secretaries, ten seamstresses at the shop with another twenty doing piecework from home, and three runners. Her staff was currently working day and night on the bridal gown and bridesmaids’ dresses for the wedding of the governor’s daughter. It was to be the wedding of the season. Claire not only knew her client well, but was delighted that Evelyn Weld was willing to push the boundaries of fashion for her upcoming nuptials. Like the bride, bridesmaids traditionally wore white, but Claire had convinced Evelyn to use color for her bridesmaids’ dresses. Evelyn and her mother had agreed that shell pink accented with mauve and pale gold were most becoming shades for Evelyn’s two sisters.
The excitement normally attributed to such happy festivities was heightened at the prospect of introducing a new fashion, and Evelyn insisted that everyone working on the gowns be sworn to secrecy. Claire was more than happy to comply, but the aura of mystery surrounding her client’s wedding added to the stress of an already overburdened staff. Only days away from the wedding, her top seamstress, Mrs. Holder, was suffering from gout, and two junior seamstresses had been in tears for a week. Further, Pegs was bed-ridden due to early labor pains. Claire felt that reinforcements were necessary, and immediately called Constance, who had assembled as many able-bodied members of the family as she could on such short notice. Claire wasted no time, embracing several cousins and assigning them tasks. Most were familiar with the shop since this wasn’t the first time Claire had assembled the family at the eleventh hour, and probably wouldn’t be the last.
“Aunt Mimi and Aunt Allie, you are a welcome sight! Can you match up the pieces here? I can’t tell what is finished from what isn’t.”
“We’ll sort it all out, dear.” Mimi and Allie conveniently lived together in the city and had encouraged Claire’s interest in the family business. They spent many a memorable Saturday afternoon going over fabrics and teaching young Claire sewing skills. Claire consulted them often and, to their delight, had revived many of their old embroidery patterns in the wedding dresses she designed.
“All those tedious hours sewing,” murmured Aunt Allie, shaking her head. “Who would have thought we would actually put our skills to good use.”
“Quite so, Allie,” agreed Aunt Mimi. “Let’s start with this pile on the cutting table and work our way around to the seamstresses. We should have a good idea of how many completed pieces we have once we take a look at what’s here.” She turned to Claire. “If young Reggie is about, have him bring us a pot of tea.”
“He is, and I will,” said Claire fondly, blowing kisses in their direction. Turning, she stepped into the arms of the General for a hug. “Dear Uncle Edward. Mother brought you as well. How are you today?”
“Never better. Your mother said you were in a bit of a pinch and I thought I might be of some assistance.” He stepped back and gave her a smart salute. “General Edward Randolph, at your service.”
“I know you are teasing me, Uncle, but I really am grateful. Oh dear, I see that you have brought George and Martha.” The Irish wolfhounds enthusiastically licked Claire’s hands.
“Never go anywhere without them,” said Edward, patting their great heads. He dug deep into his vest and produced two biscuits. The animals shivered in anticipation, oblivious to a tall stack of hatboxes nearby. “Better behaved than most children. Sit!” The wolfhounds obeyed immediately. Edward placed a biscuit on each of their noses. “Stay!”
“Uncle, you’re tormenting them.”
“Nonsense!” He clapped his hands and both dogs wolfed down their biscuits, wagging their tails enthusiastically. At that moment, the stack of hatboxes began to teeter.
Constance moved forward, and steadied the wayward boxes. “Edward, I think you should start by securing these boxes.”
“Yes, please!” Claire turned and spoke to a girl of about eleven, “Florrie, can you help my uncle with these boxes?”
In the meantime, Martha had snuck around and taken one of the bridesmaid’s gloves out of its box and was giving it a good shake. Claire wrestled the delicate glove from Martha’s slobbering mouth and examined it. “No harm done. Uncle Edward, Florrie will show you where the accessories are. Can you please box and label the packages? Florrie, let George out the back door, I think he needs to go outside.”
Constance rushed to push down George’s elevated hind leg and helped usher man and beasts towards the shipping room. Once everyone was settled in she said, “I’m sorry that I had to bring Edward, dear, but Timothy is still in New York and young Oliver was needed in the fields. Edward is having his spells again, and I feel better if he is with us.”
“It’s all right Mother. I don’t mind at all. George and Martha will be fine in the back and we can all keep an eye on Uncle Edward. I’m only sorry that he is going through such a hard time. Lavinia, darling! I nearly overlooked you in all this chaos. Give me a big hug, sweetheart, I desperately need it!” Claire scooped Lavinia up and clung to her for dear life. “You are my lucky charm,” she told Lavinia as she set her down.
Claire drew Constance and Lavinia into a back room where three dressmakers’ models stood. “What do you think?”
The elegant satin bridal gown was embroide
red with pearl beads. The long satin train was trimmed with satin ribbon and cream lace. The top of the train was gathered twice to form a bustle below the waist. The front of the narrow skirt was a rich embroidery of beads and silk, trimmed at floor length by cream lace. The long pointed bodice was very short on the hips, square in front and rounded in the back with a high neck. Embroidered epaulets rested on satin that narrowed into close sleeves. The long gauze veil was trimmed with cream lace. The first bridesmaid’s dress had a narrow skirt of shell pink satin trimmed at floor length by gold ribbon and shell pink lace. The sides of the skirt were maroon satin and formed a panel. The long pointed maroon bodice was also short on the hips and trimmed with shell pink beads and satin embroidery. Gold epaulets rested on maroon satin that narrowed into close sleeves.
The second bridesmaid’s dress was identical to the first except the colors were reversed. The skirt was maroon satin, trimmed with gold ribbon and maroon lace, and ornamented by a shell pink panel. The shell pink bodice was similarly trimmed with maroon beads and satin embroidery.
“You are very talented, my dear. The dresses are exquisite.”
“Thank you, Mother. Evelyn and her sisters will be in later today for their final fittings. We’re nearly finished with the accessories, and I have already sent over most of the trousseau. I’m working on Evelyn’s headpiece for the veil myself, which I expect to complete tonight.
“You seem to have everything under control, Claire. What can I do?” asked Constance.
“You are my moral support, Mother. This is the most important order that I have ever done. I’m in charge of everyone else. I just need you to be here for me.”
Constance reached over and held Claire close. “I am always here, my dear sweet gifted daughter.” She released Claire, and touched her cheek. “I’m not so sure that you really do need me, Claire. You are an independent young woman who can do anything you set your mind to. The fact that you want me here to share in your success is the greatest gift you can give me.”
“What if I fail, Mother?”
“You will not. There will be times when you do not achieve the results you desire. As long as you do your best, you will learn from experience, but you will never fail.”
Reggie stuck his head in the door, “Miss Claire! Come quick! The shoemaker is here with the shoes!”
“Wonderful! Lavinia, how would you like to help trim some slippers?” “Oh yes! I’ll do my very best work, Aunt Claire. Grandmama, will you help me?” “Of course, Lavinia,” said Constance, as she took Lavinia’s hand and followed Claire to the work room.
Later that evening, after a simple supper, the family gathered in the living room at the Philadelphia house. George and Martha slept near the General’s feet, and Bubbles was curled up in Lavinia’s lap on the settee. Aunt Mimi and Aunt Allie had their feet propped up, and Constance and Belle were sewing beads on the last pair of slippers. Lavinia and Ella sat next to Claire who was working on an intricate headpiece.
“I like this house,” said Lavinia.
“I like it too,” echoed Ella, “especially when you are here Lavinia.” “Do you miss Philadelphia, Grandmama?” “Not really. I was very happy to return home to
Millstone Manor to stay with Father when John went to war.”
“Constance wasn’t much of a society girl, not like Marjorie,” said Edward. “She loved dressing up and going to parties.”
“You make me sound like a prude, Edward. I enjoy parties too, but I prefer the country. This house belonged to John’s parents, and we moved here after we married so John could manage the textile business.”
“Did they live here too?”
“Sometimes. They had another home in New York and they often stayed there.”
“How did Grandpapa work if you lived in Chadds Ford?”
“He traveled back and forth. Claire attended school in Philadelphia and stayed with Papa during the week.”
“Did Mama go to school in Philadelphia?”
“No. Julia preferred to study with a tutor at home,” said Constance.
“Like me,” said Lavinia.
“Like you,” Constance agreed.
“I enjoyed my studies very much,” said Claire. “After Papa died, Grandma Spencer came to stay with me so I could continue to go to school.”
“That’s the best way,” said Lavinia, looking over at Constance.
“Yes it is, dear,” agreed Constance.
“Well, Mimi and I are off to bed,” said Aunt Allie. “What time tomorrow?” “You dear, sweet, wonderful darlings!” cried Claire, “I can’t believe you’re willing to endure another day of chaos!” “It’s much better than sitting home talking to a host of boring visitors!” said Aunt Mimi. “Scandalous!” said Aunt Allie shocked. “How can you say such a terrible thing about our friends?”
“They’re old and cranky.”
“True, but you are not supposed to say that!” scolded Allie.
The General laughed. “I told you we have strong women in this family—with minds of their own!”
“Come around two o’clock tomorrow afternoon,” said Claire. “The final fittings were done today and there are a few minor adjustments. I’ll need help with the final inventory. I’ve hired a coach to take the rest of the shipment over to the Weld mansion on Society Hill late tomorrow.”
“Very well. No, don’t anyone get up. We will see ourselves out.”
“Nonsense!” The General rose and escorted the two elderly ladies out to their coach. George and Martha followed.
“Good night, dear,” said Mimi as she stood on tiptoe to kiss the General’s cheek. Aunt Allie also kissed the General and squeezed his hand, “Thank you, nephew.”
The General waved as the coach pulled away. “Let’s go for a walk,” he said and ambled down the street with George and Martha.
“Edward is leaving,” said Constance, peering out the window. “Mother, he will be fine. He knows his way around the neighborhood,” said Claire.
“Don’t worry, Constance,” said Belle.
The ladies went back to their sewing. Lavinia and Ella watched Claire fashion the headpiece. It was in the shape of a small tiara with four tiers. Claire had sewn seed pearls and miniature satin bows on the tiers and was looping strands of wire to hold fresh roses. “At last, I believe I am satisfied with this piece. I know it looks rather bare now but wait until the roses are wound through the wire and the veil is attached,” she told the girls.
“Will I be able to see it?” asked Lavinia.
“Of course. You can be my assistant the day of the wedding. I always take Mrs. Holder and a few seamstresses with me to make sure that the dresses are properly fitted, and we attend to any last minute beads or bows that need to be resewn.”
“I can hardly wait,” said Lavinia.
“How exciting, Lavinia! The Governor’s mansion!” exclaimed Ella.
The General opened the front door, and George and Martha bounded into the room.
“I’m going with Aunt Claire to help with the wedding,” Lavinia told him.
“Very good, Soldier. Pay close attention and mind your aunt. She knows what’s what.”
“Well, these slippers are finished, and I am going home,” said Belle. “Come along Ella. You can tell us all about the wedding when you come to supper on Sunday, Claire, and give Pegs my love. Constance, have a good trip home.” Belle and Ella kissed and hugged everyone, and the General escorted them to their coach.
“I’m starting to feel like a doorman,” complained the General when he returned. “Have you got any whiskey, Claire?” he asked. “It’s cold out there.”
“Here you go, Uncle,” said Claire as she poured two tumblers.
“Claire, I don’t hold with spirits and I am taking Lavinia off to bed,” said Constance.
“Good night Mother,” Claire said as she handed the General one of the tumblers.
“To another success!” toasted the General.
“Cheers!” countered Claire.
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Disgusted, Constance took Lavinia’s hand. As they left the room, Lavinia turned to see the General wink at her. “Strong women with minds of their own!” he whispered, nodding knowingly.
“Come along, child,” said Constance as Claire and the General settled companionably in front of the fire, sipping the amber colored liquor.
Claire kept her promise and took Lavinia to the Weld Mansion, where she saw first hand the respect that her aunt commanded. Claire was a powerful presence, masterfully orchestrating the final fitting, making last-minute alterations, and overseeing that the preparations were conducted in an orderly fashion. As a result, all went according to plan. Evelyn Weld was the most beautiful bride that Lavinia had ever seen, and her sisters looked like princesses. The governor and his wife were moved to tears by the vision the three girls presented as they descended the staircase for their parents’ approval.
A few days later, Aunt Allie sent Constance the society section of the newspaper. The bridesmaids dresses were a shining sensation. The article painted a glowing review of Claire’s bold choice of color, and labeled Trousseau the best bridal shop in the northeast.
Lavinia tucked the newspaper clipping in her journal and wrote:
I loved going to Philedelphia to help Aunt Claire. She is the most creative person that I know. She owns her own business and many people depend upon her for work. She knows so much about fashion, and designs the most beautiful dresses from bolts of cloth, ribbons, and beads. Aunt Claire makes her clients happy, but she never seems to have any time for herself. Grandmama worries that Aunt Claire works too much, and won’t find time to meet someone special. Aunt Claire thinks she has to choose between her work and a family. It doesn’t seem fair. I think Aunt Claire is too busy right now to care about these things but I wonder if she will someday.
God gives us special talents and we must use our talents for the greater good. I am beginning to see that placing others before ourselves is an important part of being virtuous. LSR
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