Shepherd’s pie
A traditional shepherd’s pie is made with ground lamb, while the similar cottage pie is made with beef. Both freeze well (add 10–15 minutes to the cooking time if baking from frozen). A little bit of Branston Pickle enhances the flavor of the lamb in this recipe.
SERVES 4
1 pound lean ground lamb
2–3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, minced
1 large carrot, minced
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup red wine
1½ cups chicken stock (see Chapter 9)
1½ tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
leaves from a handful of fresh thyme sprigs
leaves from a sprig of fresh rosemary, chopped
2½ tablespoons minced Branston Pickle
Topping:
1¼ pounds baking potatoes, cut into chunks
3½ tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons hot milk
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
2 extra-large egg yolks
Put a wide, cast-iron or other heavy-based pan over medium to high heat. Season the ground lamb with salt and pepper and fry in a thin layer of oil until evenly browned, about 10 minutes. (Fry the meat in two batches if necessary.) Transfer the lamb to a bowl using a slotted spoon.
Add a little more olive oil to the pan and stir in the onion, carrot, and garlic. Fry, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are golden brown, 4–5 minutes. Add the flour and tomato paste and stir for a couple of minutes longer. Pour in the red wine and scrape the bottom of the pan to dislodge the browned sediment. Let the wine boil until it has almost all evaporated and the pan is quite dry.
Pour in the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Return the lamb to the pan and add the Worcestershire sauce and herbs. Turn the heat to the lowest setting and partially cover the pan. Simmer, stirring every once in a while, until the lamb is tender and the sauce has thickened, 30–40 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until tender when pierced with a small knife, 15–20 minutes. Drain well, then return to the hot pan over low heat to dry out briefly. Press the potatoes through a potato ricer into a large bowl. Mix in the butter, hot milk, and 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan. Season well to taste, then beat in the egg yolks and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Fold the minced Branston Pickle through the lamb mixture, then pour into an 8-cup baking dish. Spoon the mashed potato generously on top of the lamb filling, starting from the outside and working your way into the middle. Fluff up the mashed potato with a fork to make rough peaks. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan and grind a little black pepper over the top. Bake until the top is golden brown and the filling is bubbling up around the sides, 20–25 minutes. Serve with extra Branston Pickle, if you wish.
Deep-dish chicken pie
No other food makes me quite as enjoyably nostalgic as a good homemade chicken pie. When we were young, my mother used to make a wonderful chicken pie from scratch—pastry, chicken stock, and everything—with whatever little time she had. Here is my version of this ultimate comfort food.
SERVES 4
3¼ cups chicken stock (see Chapter 9)
leaves from a sprig of fresh thyme
3 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, about 1¼ pounds in total
10 ounces boiling onions or shallots, peeled
7 ounces button mushrooms, cleaned
2 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup heavy cream
1 pound, or 1 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9)
2 extra-large egg yolks, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash
coarse sea salt for sprinkling
Bring the stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Add the thyme leaves, then poach the chicken breasts until just firm and cooked through, 10–12 minutes. With a pair of kitchen tongs, transfer the poached chicken to a plate and let cool.
Tip the boiling onions into the stock and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue simmering until both the onions and mushrooms are tender, 4–5 minutes longer. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the onions and mushrooms to a large bowl.
Increase the heat under the stock and boil until it has reduced to 1¼ cups. Meanwhile, cut the chicken into bite-size pieces and add to the onions and mushrooms. When the stock has reduced, pour it into a pitcher.
Return the pan to the heat. Melt the butter in the pan and stir in the flour. Keep stirring over medium heat for 3–4 minutes. Gradually pour in the hot stock, stirring until smooth. Simmer until thickened, 5–10 minutes, then stir in the cream and bring back to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The sauce should be thick and creamy. Pour it over the chicken and vegetables and mix well. Let cool completely.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Divide the pastry into two portions: two-thirds and one-third. Roll out the larger portion on a lightly floured surface to a circle large enough to line a pie dish or pan, or a casserole, that is 9–10 inches in diameter and 1½-2 inches deep. Line the dish and trim off the excess pastry. For a good-looking result, put a pie bird or pie funnel in the middle of the dish. Spread the filling evenly in the dish.
Roll out the remaining pastry to form a lid for the pie and cut a cross in the middle to fit around the pie bird. (If you’re not using a pie bird, cut a small cross anyway, to serve as a steam vent.) Brush the pastry rim with the egg wash, then drape the pastry lid over the pie and press down around the rim to seal. Use a sharp knife to cut off any excess pastry around the rim, then crimp the edges. If you wish, decorate the pie with pastry leaves made with the trimmings. Brush the pie top and trimmings with the egg wash and sprinkle the top with coarse sea salt. Bake until the pastry is golden brown and the sauce is bubbling from the steam hole, about 35 minutes.
Smoked salmon and horseradish cream tartlets
These tarts make a perfect first course for a dinner party. To get ahead, bake the pastry shells 2–3 days in advance and store in an airtight container to keep them crisp. (I rarely make my own puff pastry, but always buy a good brand made with butter.) The smoked salmon filling can also be prepared beforehand, but bear in mind that the flavor of the raw shallots will become stronger with time. Serve with dressed salad leaves on the side.
MAKES 4
9 ounces puff pastry, thawed if frozen
7 ounces hot-smoked salmon
1 large shallot, minced
½ celery rib, minced
2 tablespoons cream-style horseradish
6 tablespoons crème fraîche
pinch of cayenne pepper
squeeze of lemon juice
small handful of fresh dillweed, leaves chopped, plus a few fronds for garnish
4 large slices of smoked salmon for garnish
Begin by making the tartlet shells. Cut the pastry into four portions, then roll out each one on a lightly floured surface to about 1/8-inch thickness. Prick all over with a fork. Use them to line four 4-inch tartlet pans with removable bottoms. Let the pastry extend a little above the rim of the pan. Use a pair of kitchen scissors to trim away bigger pieces of excess pastry because they are vulnerable to breaking off. Carefully stack the pastry-lined pans, one on top of the other, pushing the pans down to keep the shape of the pastry. Let rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Put the stacked pastry shells on a baking sheet. Line the top pastry shell with foil and pie weights. Bake until the pastry is set and golden, 25–30 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and carefully separate the tartlet pans. Place them side by side on the baking sheet and return to the oven to bake until golden brown and cooked through, 5–10 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and let cool in the pans. When cool, use a sharp knife to trim off the excess pastry level with the rims.
Put the hot-smoked salmon, shallot, and celery in a food processor
and blend until smooth. Add the horseradish and crème fraîche and pulse for a few more seconds until they become incorporated into the mixture. Season to taste with salt, pepper, cayenne, and lemon juice. Fold in the chopped dill. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let the mixture set a little and for the flavors to come together.
Remove the tartlet shells from the pans. Spread the filling in the shells. Drape the smoked salmon slices attractively over the filling and garnish the tarts with a few dill fronds.
Fish pie with oysters and scallops
The scallops lend sweetness to the pie, while fresh oysters help to enrich and season the filling with their natural salt. Buttered spinach is a good side dish for this.
SERVES 4–6
1¾ pounds firm, skinless fish fillets, such as salmon and/or monkfish
6 fresh oysters, shucked
6 sea scallops, cut in half
handful of fresh basil leaves
Sauce:
1½ tablespoons butter
2 shallots, minced
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup Noilly Prat
2/3 cup fish stock (see Chapter 9)
2/3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard (optional)
squeeze of lemon juice
Topping:
1¾ pounds baking potatoes, cut into large chunks
5 tablespoons butter, cut into cubes
¼ cup hot milk
2 extra-large egg yolks
Parmesan for grating
First, prepare the sauce for the filling. Heat the butter in a pan and sweat the shallots until soft. Add the white wine and Noilly Prat and reduce by half. Add the stock and bubble away again until reduced by half. Pour in the cream and boil until reduced to a thick sauce consistency. Strain through a sieve and discard the shallot. Stir in the mustard, if using, and check for seasoning, adding a little lemon juice to taste. Let cool completely.
Next, make the topping. Put the potatoes into a pan of salted water and bring to a boil. Cook until tender when pierced with a knife, 15–20 minutes. Drain well, then push them through a potato ricer. Mix in the butter and hot milk until melted and well incorporated. Season to taste and let cool slightly. Beat the egg yolks lightly, then mix into the cooled potato. Set aside while you prepare the fish.
Heat the oven to 350°F. Check the fish fillets for any small bones, removing any with tweezers, then cut into 1¼-inch chunks. Season lightly, then gently fold the fish, oysters, and scallops into the sauce with the basil leaves. Transfer to an 8-cup baking dish. Spread the potato over the filling and run a fork over it for a rustic finish. Grate Parmesan evenly over the top. Bake until the pie is bubbling and golden brown on top, 25–35 minutes.
Spinach, feta, and pine nut tart
This tart is based on the Greek spanakopita. As I’ve never been a huge fan of phyllo pastry, my version uses a basic short pastry crust instead.
SERVES 4
10 ounces, or about 2/3 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 sweet onions, minced
1 pound spinach leaves, washed and drained
nutmeg for grating
8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
1 extra-large egg
1 extra-large egg yolk
scant 1 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup toasted pine nuts
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan
Roll out the pastry on a floured surface to about 1/8-inch thickness, then use it to line a tart pan with a removable bottom that is 9–10 inches in diameter and 1½–1¾ inches deep. Leave a little excess pastry hanging over the sides. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the filling: Heat the olive oil in a pan and fry the onions with a little salt and pepper until soft but not browned, 6–8 minutes. Wilt the spinach leaves in a large pan in several batches, stirring. As each batch is wilted, transfer to a colander. Press down on the spinach with the back of a ladle to squeeze out the excess water. Let the spinach cool slightly, then roughly chop.
Put the onion and spinach in a large bowl and grate over a little nutmeg. Add the feta, egg, egg yolk, cream, and a generous grinding of black pepper. Add a pinch of salt to taste, bearing in mind that the feta is already salty. Finally, fold in the pine nuts and 3 tablespoons of the Parmesan. Keep refrigerated until ready to use.
Heat the oven to 400°F. Line the tart shell with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake until set and lightly golden, 15–20 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and return to the oven to bake until golden brown, 5 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 325°F. Use a sharp knife to trim off the overhanging pastry, then set aside to cool.
Spread the filling evenly in the pastry shell, then sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan. Bake until the top is golden brown and the filling has set, 35–40 minutes. Let cool slightly before unmolding, slicing, and serving.
Crab and tarragon tart
This tart is light, but—at the same time—indulgent. I advise against using canned crabmeat because the excess brine in it will dilute the custard and make the pastry soggy. Fresh crabmeat is greatly superior in taste, too.
SERVES 6 AS A FIRST COURSE OR 4 AS A LIGHT LUNCH
10 ounces, or about 2/3 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9)
1 pound crabmeat
scant 1 cup crème fraîche
½ cup sour cream
1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon
small bunch of fresh tarragon, leaves minced
2 extra-large eggs
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 1/8-inch thickness, then use it to line a tart pan with a removable bottom that is 9–10 inches in diameter and 1½–1¾ inches deep. Leave a little excess pastry hanging over the sides. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line the pastry shell with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake until set and lightly golden, 15–20 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and return to the oven to bake until golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Take the pastry shell out of the oven and let cool slightly. Using a sharp knife, trim off the excess pastry level with the rim.
Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Pick over the crabmeat and discard any pieces of shell or cartilage. In a large mixing bowl, lightly beat together the crème fraîche, sour cream, mustard, Parmesan, and lemon zest and juice. Stir in the crabmeat and tarragon, then season well with salt and pepper to taste. Lightly beat the eggs and stir into the mixture. Pour into the pastry shell.
Bake the tart until the filling is puffed and golden on top but still slightly wobbly in the center, 35–40 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven and let it cool a little before slicing and serving.
Artichoke, asparagus, and ham quiche
This is a wonderful quiche to make when local asparagus is in season or when you have leftover glazed ham (see Chapter 4).
SERVES 4–6
10 ounces, or about 2/3 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9)
10 ounces asparagus
3 extra-large eggs
1 cup crème fraîche
scant 1 cup grated Gruyère
1 cup cooked ham cut into cubes
8–10 ounces bottled artichoke hearts in olive oil, drained and halved or quartered
Roll out the pastry on a floured surface to about 1/8-inch thickness, then use it to line a tart pan with a removable bottom that is 9–10 inches in diameter and 1½–1¾ inches deep. Leave a little excess pastry hanging over the sides. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, trim the ends of the asparagus and peel the tough stalks. Cut the spears into finger lengths, then blanch in boiling salted water until just tender and bright green, about 3 minutes. Drain and refresh in a bowl of ice water, then drain again.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line the pastry shell with foil and fill with pie weights. Bake until set and lightly golden, 15–20 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and return to the oven to bake until golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Take the pastry shell out of the oven and cool slightly. Using a sharp knife, trim off the excess pastry level with the rim of the pan.
For the filling, beat together the eggs and crème fraîche with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Stir in three-quarters of the Gruyère. Evenly scatter the cooked ham, artichoke hearts, and asparagus over the bottom of the pastry shell. Spoon in the filling to come just below the rim (you may not need all the filling). Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top. Bake until the filling is set and golden on top, 30–35 minutes. Let cool slightly, then unmold and slice. Eat warm or at room temperature.
Lemon, leek and dolcelatte tart
This is an easy, free-form tart. As it is filled and then baked, the bottom of the pastry shell will not be as crisp as one that has been prebaked “blind.” If you are making the pastry yourself, add the finely grated zest of a small lemon for extra zing.
SERVES 4
4 large leeks, about 2¼ pounds in total, washed
2 tablespoons butter
leaves from a few sprigs of fresh thyme
Cooking for Friends Page 9