by Rick Steves
Acknowledgments
I’m grateful to work with people at my company who share my vision and commitment. Many thanks to my editors, Cameron Hewitt and Risa Laib, for bringing clarity, depth, and focus to my writing. If this book has struck a chord with you, it’s due largely to their tuning—and even downright overhauling—of my work. Thanks to Rhonda Pelikan for laying out the book so thoughtfully. I also appreciate the talented help of Gene Openshaw, Barb Geisler, and Lauren Mills.
I had experts in various fields and from various countries review the portions of my work that relate to their area of expertise. For their insightful guidance, my thanks to Marijan Krišković (tour guide, on the former Yugoslavia), Dr. Benjamin Curtis (Professor, Seattle University, on the European Union), Francesca Caruso (licensed Italian guide, on the EU), Edit Herczog (member of the European Parliament, on the EU), Lee Evans (tour guide and Berlin local, on the EU), Ann Butwell (Center for Global Education at Augsburg College, on El Salvador), Christian Donatzky (Historian, MA, Copenhagen History Tours, on Denmark), Jane Klausen (insider’s look at Denmark), David Hoerlein (tour guide, on Denmark), Jakob Nielsen (Danish journalist, on Denmark), Lale Surmen Aran (tour guide and author, on Turkey), Tankut Aran (tour guide and author, on Turkey), Mehlika Seval (tour guide, on Turkey), Aziz Begdouri (tour guide, on Morocco), Norm Stamper (former Seattle Police Chief, on drug policy), Dr. Craig Reinarman (Professor of Sociology, UC Santa Cruz, on drug policy), Abdi Sami (Associate Producer of Rick Steves’ Iran public television show), Abie Bresler and Benny Dagan (tour guides, on Israel), and Kamal Mukarker and Husam Jubran (tour guides, on Palestine).
Thanks to the people mentioned in the anecdotes in this book for giving such meaning and wonder to my travels and my life. And finally, thanks to you, my thoughtful reader, for knowing that travel can—and should—be a positive force for change. Happy travels!
Index
This big-picture index is designed to point you to some of my favorite themes, topics, and destinations. The page numbers direct you only to the main discussion of the item (not each passing mention). The list, shaped by my own preferences, is not comprehensive and admittedly quirky…just like each traveler’s own journey.
American Dream: 16–17
American Empire: 98
Amsterdam: 154–160
“Axis of Evil”: 176–178
Balata Refugee Camp (Palestine): 242–245
Balkans, the: 27–29
Bay of Kotor (Montenegro): 42–44
Bethlehem (Palestine): 223–227
“Big Government” in Europe: 49–52, 54
Bonsai democracy, and El Salvador: 103–105
Books for further reading: 261
Bosnia-Herzegovina: 29–37, 40–41
“Brand of America”: 98
Call to prayer, Muslim: 144
Christiania (Denmark): 123–127
Christianity and Islam: fear of Muslims in the U.S., 14; the human and the bear, 149; modern Turkish perspective, 129–141; sampling secular Islam, 129–149
Coffeeshops, in Amsterdam: 154–160
Comfort zone, going beyond your: 19–20
Copenhagen (Denmark): 116, 122, 123–127
Croatia: 26–27
“Death to traffic”: 178–180
Denmark: 115–127
Drug policy: 150–153; Dutch approach, 154–160; Portuguese approach, 163; and Prohibition, 157; Swiss approach, 161–162; U.S. vs. Europe, 152–153. See also Marijuana
Dubrovnik (Croatia): 26–27
Eastern Europe: 65
El Salvador: 89–113
Ethnic diversity: 63–64, 66
Ethnic underdogs: 16–17
Europe: appreciating experiences in, 8; “Big Government” in, 49–52, 54; connecting with people in, 6–7; Denmark, 115–127; drug policy, 160–167; ethnic diversity in, 63–64, 66; former Yugoslavia, 25–47; immigration challenges, 67–69, 72–73; infrastructure improvements, 58, 60–61; integrated economy, 56–58; pacifism, 61–62; perception of the U.S., 81–83; sexuality and attitudes about, 77–81; Socialism in, 49–52, 54; terrorism and attitudes about, 13–16; tolerance in, 73–77, 154–160; Turkey, 129–141; understanding history, 9–12; work-life balance, 54–56
Fear, overcoming: 13–14, 16
Free rider problem: 117–121
German spas: 78–79
Globalization: 95–97
Golan Heights (Israel): 218–221
Güzelyurt (Turkey): 135–137
“Hard power”: 98
Hebron (Palestine): 240–242
Hijab, the: 247
Holy Land: 202–251
Homecoming: 253–263
Immigration in Europe: in Denmark, 118–119; general challenges, 67–69, 72–73; tolerance and futility of legislating morality, 73–77
Infrastructure improvements in Europe (“Internal Marshall Plan”): 58, 60–61
Iran: 169–201
Islam and Christianity: See Christianity and Islam
Islam in a Pistachio Shell: 142–144
Israel: 203–223, 249–251
Istanbul (Turkey): 130–135
Jerusalem (Israel): 206–214
Jubilee Year: 101
Legislating morality: 73–77
Liberation Theology: 104
Marijuana: 151–167; Dutch approach, 154–160; paths and barriers to legalization, 164; Portuguese approach, 163; U.S. vs. Europe, 152–153; in Washington State, 164–167
Medieval jester, traveling like: 3–4
Middle East: 203–251
Military spending in the U.S.: 98
Montenegro (Bosnia-Herzegovina): 42–47
Morocco: 145–149
Mostar: 34–37, 40–41
Nations without states: See Ethnic underdogs
Netherlands: 73–74; drug policy, 154–160
Northern Ireland: 39, 66–67, 70–71
Overcome fear: 13–14, 16
Palestine: 229–257
Peace, European emphasis on: 61–62
Persepolis (Iran): 193–195
Planting people: 66–67
Prohibition: 157
Prostitution: 74–75
Ramallah (Palestine): 246, 248
Reichstag (Berlin): 11-12
Republika Srpska (Bosnia-Herzegovina): 29–34
Rich/poor gap: in El Salvador, 110–113; worldwide, 21–22
Rock of Gibraltar: 10
Romero, Oscar: 103–105, 106–108
Sea of Galilee (Israel): 221–223
Separation of mosque and state: in Iran, 185–189; in Turkey, 137–141
Sexuality, European attitudes about: 77–81
“Social-ism” in Denmark: 117–121
Socialism in Europe: 49–52, 54
“Soft power”: 98
Switzerland, drug policy in: 161–162
Tangier (Morocco): 145–149
Tehran (Iran): 170–174, 178-180
Tel Aviv (Israel): 216
Terrorism: and American Empire, 98; by the numbers, 15; overcoming fear of, 13–14, 16
Theocracy in Iran: 185–189
Tolerance (gedogen): 73–77, 154
Turkey: 129–141
Tyranny of the majority: 70–71
Ultra-Orthodox Jews: 210–211
United States: American Dream, 16–17; attitudes about sexuality relative to Europe, 77–81; attitudes about terrorism, 13–14, 16; the “Brand of America” abroad, 98; cost of policing the world, 59; drug policy, 152–153, 164–167; Europe’s view of, 81–83; globalization’s role, 95–97; Iran and, 169–201; perception as empire, 81–83, 98; Prohibition in, 157; putting global perspective into action at home, 262–268; reverse culture shock, 253–254; social system relative to Europe, 49–52, 54; travel changes, 254–256
West Bank (Palestine): 227–234
Work-life balance, in Europe: 54–56
Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial (Israel): 213–214
Yugoslavia, former: 25–47
Rick Steves on Public Tele
vision, Radio, and Podcasts
Public Television: Rick Steves’ Europe
Rick’s award-winning travel series has become a public television institution, appearing for the past decade on more than 300 stations nationwide. Every Rick Steves’ Europe episode gives viewers a chance to experience Europe’s most interesting destinations, from its great cities to its “back door” hideaways and villages. Because many stations air the shows in high-definition—from the windswept coast of Scotland to the scalps of the Alps to the markets of Istanbul—watching Rick Steves’ Europe is the next best thing to a plane ticket. All 100 Rick Steves’ Europe shows are also available as a DVD box set. For details on all of Rick’s TV shows, visit ricksteves.com.
Public Radio: Travel with Rick Steves
Every week Rick Steves, his guest experts and callers share a lively, ear-opening hour of travel talk that connects public radio listeners with the sights, sounds, and cultures of the world. Going far beyond Rick’s “home base” of Europe, Travel with Rick Steves explores global topics, such as encounters with Islam, bicycle adventures in Asia, ecotourism in Latin America, road trips in the USA, local cooking, cultural quirks, travel as a force for peace, and much more. The show is broadcast by more than 250 radio stations nationwide, and available from anywhere as free podcasts. For a complete list of stations and archived shows, visit ricksteves.com/radio.
Free Travel Podcasts
Rick Steves has built a rich archive of radio shows and “Travel Bites” TV clips that can be played any time, on demand, for free. They are easy to subscribe to and download via iTunes or at ricksteves.com.
Free Audio Tours
Now you can visit Europe’s great sights with Rick Steves literally whispering in your ear—making art and history come alive at that very moment. Rick has recorded 16 Audio Tours covering key sights and neighborhood walks in Paris, Rome, Florence, and Venice. All are available free from iTunes and at ricksteves.com. Each tour also includes a handy PDF companion map.
Start Your Trip at ricksteves.com
Where we’ll help you turn your travel dreams into affordable reality.
Plan Your Trip
Browse thousands of articles and a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip. You’ll find up-to-date information on Europe’s best destinations, packing smart, getting around, finding rooms, staying healthy, avoiding scams and more.
Travel News
Subscribe to our free Travel News enewsletter, and get monthly updates from Rick on what’s happening in Europe.
Graffiti Wall & Travel Forum
Learn, ask, share—our online community of savvy travelers is a great resource for first-time travelers to Europe, as well as seasoned pros.
Rick’s Free Audio Europe™ App
The Rick Steves Audio Europe™ app brings history and art to life. Enjoy Rick’s audio tours of Europe’s top museums, sights and neighborhood walks—plus hundreds of tracks of travel tips and cultural insights from Rick’s radio show—all organized into geographic playlists.
Great Gear from Rick’s Travel Store
Pack light and right—on a budget—with Rick’s custom-designed carry-on bags, wheeled bags, day packs, travel accessories, guidebooks, journals, maps and DVDs of his TV shows.
Rick’s European Tours
At ricksteves.com you can learn about our small group tours covering more than three dozen different itineraries, and order Rick’s free catalog and Tour Experience DVD.
Travel with Rick Steves on the Radio and Online
Listen to Rick’s weekly show on public radio, and subscribe to free, full-length podcasts at ricksteves.com and iTunes.
Rick Steves’ Europe TV Show
Airing on public television stations around the country (and on-demand at ricksteves.com), Rick’s TV shows are the closest thing to a plane ticket.
Rick Steves’ Europe travel-savvy staff is eager to help you turn your travel dreams into affordable reality.
Other Books by Rick Steves
Europe Through the Back Door
Europe 101: History and Art for the Traveler
Mediterranean Cruise Ports
Northern European Cruise Ports
Postcards from Europe
European Christmas
Country Guides
Best of Europe
Croatia & Slovenia
Eastern Europe
England
France
Germany
Great Britain
Ireland
Italy
Portugal
Scandinavia
Spain
Switzerland
City and Regional Guides
Amsterdam & the Netherlands
Barcelona
Belgium: Bruges, Brussels, Antwerp & Ghent
Budapest
Florence & Tuscany
Greece: Athens & the Peloponnese
Istanbul
London
Paris
Prague & the Czech Republic
Provence & the French Riviera
Rome
Venice
Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol
Pocket Guides
Amsterdam
Athens
Barcelona
Florence
London
Paris
Rome
Venice
Phrase Books
French, Italian & German Phrase Book
French Phrase Book & Dictionary
German Phrase Book & Dictionary
Italian Phrase Book & Dictionary
Portuguese Phrase Book & Dictionary
Spanish Phrase Book & Dictionary
Travel as a Political Act Online
To give this book an online life and more depth, we’re hosting a “Travel as a Political Act” corner of our website: ricksteves.com/politicalact. Here you’ll find more about topics covered in this book, including streaming video of Rick’s lectures and related information for his public television specials: Rick Steves’ Iran: Yesterday and Today and Rick Steves’ The Holy Land: Israelis and Palestinians Today. The site also has essays and videos about drug policy reform, and other worthwhile causes that Rick is personally involved in and passionate about.
About the Author
Rick Steves, born in 1955 and raised in Edmonds, Washington (just north of Seattle), still looks out his window each morning at Puget Sound. He has two children, Andy and Jackie. Rick ventured to Europe for the first time as a teenager in 1969, visiting relatives in Norway and touring German piano factories with his piano-importer father. Rick was hooked...and ever since, he’s spent four months each year overseas. After a few trips of learning from his mistakes, Rick was inspired to teach his fellow travelers how to enjoy smoother and more culturally broadening travels. What began as a series of lectures evolved into guidebooks, guided tours, a public television series (Rick Steves’ Europe), a public radio show (Travel with Rick Steves), a blog (on Facebook), a website (ricksteves.com), and a syndicated newspaper column. Rick wrote his first book, Europe Through the Back Door, in 1980. Since then, he has researched and written dozens of different European travel guidebooks (all published by Avalon Travel Publishing). His Edmonds-based travel company, Rick Steves’ Europe, employs a hardworking and well-traveled staff of 90. An active Lutheran, Rick has hosted several educational videos for the Lutheran Church (ELCA) and received the Wittenberg Award in 2007 for his social activism. In 2009, the National Council for International Visitors (funded by the US State Department) presented Rick with their Citizen Diplomat of the Year Award. The Society of American Travel Writers named the first edition of this book “Travel Book of the Year” in 2010, and named Rick “Travel Writer of the Year” in 2011. In 2013 the ambassador of the European Union to the United States awarded Rick the “Friend of Europe” award. And in 2014 Rick’s latest special, The Holy Land: Israelis and Palestinians Today, aired across the USA on public television. Every year, Rick travels to Europe to update hi
s guidebooks, research new ones, and produce TV shows, as he has for three decades.
Rick is donating all his royalties from the sale of this book to Bread for the World, which lobbies our government on behalf of poor people in the USA and abroad (www.bread.org).