Adorned in Dreams (Wilson), 328
Adrian, 164, 281
Agha, Mehemed F. “Dr. Agha,” 107, 109, 131
Agnelli, Antonella, 215
Agnelli, Gianni, 296
Agnelli, Marella, 155, 269, 296
Albany, New York, 69–71
Allen, Adrian G. “A. G.,” 157, 158, 162, 167
Allure (Vreeland), 6, 38, 76, 83, 108, 261, 300–302, 303, 311
Alphand, Nicole, 178
Alfonso XIII, King of Spain, 301
Alsop, Susan Mary, 215
Anderson, Marian, 117
Andrew, John, 304
Annenberg, Leonore, 296
Anything Goes (Moore), 58
Arden, Elizabeth, 58, 224
Arlen, Michael, 58
Arnaz, Lucie, 288
Arnold, Rebecca, 127
art: courturier as artist, 277; DV on fashion and, 313; DV on fashion photography vs., 192, 205; fantasy and fashion, 328; Liotard as DV’s inspiration, 214
Astaire, Mrs. Fred, 99
Astor, Caroline, 296
Astor, Hugh, 151
Astor, Mrs. William Backhouse, 14
Auric, Georges, 192
Avedon, Richard, 156–57, 159–60, 162, 170, 173, 198, 248, 321, 343n 38; Balenciaga exhibit and, 276; DV and, 156–57, 257, 289, 320; Funny Face and, 169; Hutton and, 230–31; iconic Veruschka shoot, 206–10; Jackie Kennedy photos, 175; Kennedy family photos, 179; Nureyev nude photos, 246–47, 370n 247; Tree and, 232; Twiggy and, 234; at Vogue, 204–5, 231, 238, 241–42, 246, 257, 365n 205
Bacall, Lauren (Betty), 134–36, 142, 231
Baez, Joan, 202
Bailey, David, 182, 191, 197, 248, 259; DV and, 198, 276, 287; on Jessica Daves, 183; work in Vogue, 195, 198, 200, 205, 234
Baker, Josephine, 60, 64, 293, 301, 320; story of her cheetah and DV, 92–93
Bakst, Léon, 37, 61
Balanchine, George, 241
Baldwin, Billy, 148, 149, 150, 153–55, 160–61, 164
Balenciaga, Cristóbal, 157, 161, 162, 200, 224, 234, 242, 272; DV’s Costume Institute exhibition, 272–78, 280; Museum Bellerive collection, 272–73
Ballard, Bettina, 83, 124, 157–58, 162, 163, 166, 167, 349n 73
Ballets Russes, 26, 37, 57, 78, 87, 108, 215, 279, 301, 321
Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt (Duchess of Marlborough), 15, 184, 219, 293
Banton, Travis, 281, 282
Bara, Theda, 54, 55
Barton, Ralph, 347n 62
Barzini, Benedetta, 195
Bassman, Lillian, 161, 360n 156
Bath, Henry, Marquess of, 5
Battelle, Kenneth, 217–18
Baudelaire, 7
Beard, Peter, 241
Beatles, 197, 202
Beaton, Cecil, 78–80, 88, 106, 124, 131, 153, 155, 179; drawing of DV in Vogue, 1933, 96–97; DV and, 2, 4, 5, 89, 153, 173, 185, 192, 223, 257, 273, 274, 355n 119; on DV’s decor, 154; on DV’s joining Vogue, 180; friendship with DV begins, 79; memorial for, 307; My Fair Lady and, 282; photos of Daisy Fellowes, 301; on “Why Don’t You?” column, 115–16; work in Vogue, 74, 78, 107, 194, 215
Beatty, Warren, 281, 287
Beauman, Sally, 249
Beene, Geoffrey, 234
Beerbohm, Max, 5
Bellanger, Gardner, 274
Bender, Marilyn, 213
Benois, Alexandre, 37
Benson, Lesley, 98–99, 101
Benson, Rex, 99
Bérard, Christian “Bébé,” 144, 155, 171, 301
Berenson, Marisa, 203, 219, 232, 246, 249, 321
Bergdorf Goodman, 177, 178
Berlin, Dick, 119, 180
Berlin, Irving, 346n 60
Bettina (model), 187
Bibesco, Princess Marthe, 90
Billings, Emily, 44, 45, 56
Birnbaum, Glenn, 319
Bismarck, “Eddie” von, 359n 155, 369n 234
Bismarck, Mona (formerly Mona Williams, later Mona de Martini), 78–79, 83, 99, 100–101, 112, 124, 234–35, 352n 99, 359n 155, 369n 234; Costume Institute and, 269, 279; Il Fortino, Capri, 78, 90, 124, 234
Blackmon, Rosemary, 187–88, 242, 246
Blahnik, Manolo, 263–64, 372n 264
Blanc, Numa, 13
Blanch, Lesley, 213–14, 215
Blass, Bill, 163, 225, 277, 280, 281
Bloomingdale’s, 310, 311
Blum, Stella, 268, 283, 284, 293, 295, 376n 310
Bogart, Humphrey, 135
Bonwit Teller, 203, 213
Bousquet, Marie-Louise, 161
Bourdin, Guy, 228
Boussac, Marcel, 144
Bowen, Elizabeth, 213
Bowles, Hamish, 176, 177–78, 362n 176
Bramson, Ferle, 5–6, 282, 283, 284, 288
Brearley School, 15, 30–31, 34, 138
Breese, James Lawrence, 17, 316
Brien, Alan, 200
Brodovitch, Alexey, 108, 132, 156, 171, 172, 191, 301, 353n 108, 355n 119, 359n 156
Brokaw, Barbara, 60
Brokaw, Lucile, 107–8, 301
Brown, Yvonne Duval, 220, 221–22
Brownlow, Kitty, 76, 91, 99
Brownlow, Perry, 76
Belton House and, 76–77
Brubach, Holly, 208
Buckley, Pat (Mrs. William), 296
Cabot, Maud, 60
Cacharel, 368n 227
café society, 78, 79, 81, 110, 124, 155
Callot Soeurs, 279
Campbell, Douglas Walter, heir to 10th Duke of Argyll, 21, 341n 22
Campbell, Ian, 11th Duke of Argyll, 21, 341n 22
Capezio, 130
Capote, Truman, 155, 257, 303, 375n 303; Black and White Ball, 232, 368n 232; on DV, 3, 7, 325
Capri, 78–79, 90; DV’s visits to, 90, 124, 234–35; sandal popularized by DV, 90, 124, 321
Carbonites, 17
Cardin, Pierre, 176
Carlisle, Kitty, 203
Carnegie, Hattie, 126, 127, 128
Carroll, Katherine (Nanny Kay), 29–30, 32, 33, 49, 71, 73, 138, 342n 29
Carstairs, Joe, 187
Case, Margaret, 263, 371n 263
Cashin, Bonnie, 133
Cassini, Oleg, 177–78
Castle, Irene and Vernon, 36–37, 61, 316
Cavalieri, Lina, 341n 24
Cavallo, Adolph, 268
Celi, Dolores, 314, 317, 318, 319, 320
Chalif, Louis, 35, 36, 37, 44
Chanel, Coco, 85–88, 127, 146, 190, 211, 237, 239, 279, 312, 321; Beaton on, 153; Chanel No. 5 and, 87; Cuir de Russie perfume, 295; d’Erlanger gift of dress to DV, 85; DV’s views on importance of, 85, 86–87, 185, 196, 200, 226, 312; DV wearing clothes by, 102, 124, 125; fashion philosophy, 200; fittings by, 86, 125; influence of, 90, 128; inspiration for, 87, 294; opinion of DV, 5; return of, 162; in Vogue, 196; World War II and, 125
Chanler, Robert Winthrop, 24, 341n 24
Channing, Carol, 196
Chapman, Chanler, 45
Chase, Edna Woolman, 74–75, 106, 109, 110, 130, 182, 257
Chatwin, Bruce, 308
Cher, 237, 315
Claiborne, Liz, 315
Clark, Laura Pyzel, 158
Clark, Petula, 241
Clarke, Henry, 212, 215
Clews, Henry, Jr., 21, 24
Clews, Mrs. Henry, Jr., 341n 24
Cocteau, Jean, 109
Cody, Buffalo Bill, 32–33
Colacello, Bob, 288, 289, 290, 291, 305–6, 307
Colefax, Sibyl, 352n 100
Colin, Pamela, 239
Colony Club, New York, 50, 56, 58; rejection of DV, 62–63
Condé Nast
Publications, 106, 182, 219, 297, 371n 256; Liberman as editorial director, 186, 191; Newhouse acquires, 182; offices, 110. See also Vogue
Coro-Vendome, 264
Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York,
1; American Women of Style, 292–93; The Art of Fashion, 268; Bowles and, 362n 176; Cavallo at, 268; CFDA as benefactor, 277, 278; costs of exhibitions, 278; The Costumes of Royal India, 314–15; curatorial staff, 268, 283–84, 376n 310; Dance, 315–16; Diaghilev, 309; Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style, 6, 322, 326, 338n 8; Druesedow as associate curator, 311, 314; Duke of Windsor’s clothes, 270–72; DV, tribute to, 1987, 317; DV and curatorial staff, 275, 276, 295, 314; DV and press, 276, 277, 280; DV and volunteers, 284, 288; DV as Special Consultant, 1, 270–317; DV considered for position at, 268–69; DV’s celebrity friends visiting, 288–89; DV’s contract, 270, 277; DV’s critics, 308, 309–13, 376n 310; DV’s friends contribute to salary, 269–70; DV’s mannequin choice, 274–75; DV’s office, 270; DV’s salary and expenses, 270; DV’s success, 286, 293, 295, 312–13; DV’s transformation of the field, 322; DV’s weakening health and final years, 314–17; The Eighteenth-Century Woman, 310, 312; endowment for, 277; Fashions of the Hapsburg Empire, 283, 309; The Glory of Russian Costume, 293–96; Hoving and, 267, 268, 270; influence on designers, 280, 295, 310, 311, 315; Jacqueline Onassis as Party of the Year committee president, 296, 298; La Belle Époque, 310, 312; Lambert at, 268, 269; Man and Horse, 312; The Manchu Dragon, 310, 312; origins of, 267–68; Party of the Year, 277–78, 296, 315, 316–17; reevaluation of DV’s exhibitions, 322–23; Romantic and Glamorous Hollywood Design, 280–82, 284, 285–86; The Tens, The Twenties, the Thirties: Inventive Clothes 1909 -1939, 279–80, 291, 293, 299, 309; Vanity Fair, 297–99, 309, 329; visitors, 277, 280, 286, 293, 299, 312–13; The World of Balenciaga, 272–78, 280, 309, 373n 274; Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Design, 312, 313
Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), 277, 278
Courrèges, André, 200, 203
Cowan, John, 212, 255
Cowles, Virginia, 140
Crespi, Consuelo, 212, 366n 211
Croswell, James G., 31
cubism, 2
Cushing, Lily, 194
Cyrulnik, Boris, 38–39, 48, 98
Daché, Lilly, 125
Dahl-Wolfe, Louise, 130, 131–34, 136, 142, 146–47, 172, 321, 324; Bacall and, 134–36
Dali, Salvador, 5, 109
Dalziel, Edelsten (uncle), 12, 21, 341n 19
Dalziel, Emily Key Hoffman (mother), 13–21; Alexandra and, 22, 28, 29, 34; ancestry, 14–15, 339n 14; article by in Harper’s Bazar; 62, 63, 109, 347n 62; article on in Vogue, 62; beauty of, 15–16, 22, 24; at the Brearley School, 15; character and personality, 15–18, 23–25; as dancer,16–17, 36–38; death of, 72; as debutante, 15, 340n 15; DV and, 27–34, 36, 38, 40, 48, 50, 51, 55–56, 59, 62, 72–73; DV’s birth (1903), 21; European jaunts (pre-WWI), 25–27; European trip and marriage to Frederick Dalziel (1901), 18–19, 340n 18, 341n 19; decline in status, 63, 71–72; family homes, 15, 22; finances of, 23, 24; high society and, 15–16; hunting and, 16, 32, 52–53, 62, 95, 343n 32; husband’s devotion to, 49; infidelity of, 25; move to New York (1904), 21; narrative gift of, 26–27, 53; in Paris (1901–1904), 19–21, 341n 19; picture of, in DV’s last exhibition, 316; on red camellias, 59; scandal and Ross affair, 51–53, 66–67, 71–72, 347n 63, 348n 72; scrapbook, 340n 16; suitors of, 17–18; unhappiness, 24, 28–29, 61–63, 72–73
Dalziel, Frederick Young (father), 11–13, 81; appearance, 11–12, 27, 50; as broker with Post & Flagg, 22, 23, 49, 77, 139; character and personality, 25, 47, 49, 50, 72; death of, 139; distancing from his background, 21, 79; DV and, 12–13, 21, 49; Edwardian persona, 13, 19; Emi-Lu Kinloch and, 138; family of, 12, 13, 339n 12; finances of, 23, 24; hatred of popular press, 73, 138; home on East Seventy-Seventh St, NYC, 22; marriage of, 23, 25, 49; marrying up, 20, 23–24; meets and marries Emily Hoffman (1901), 19, 341n 19; as middle class, 11, 13, 23; mother-in-law and, 50; move to New York City (1904), 21; New York society and, 24; at Oxford, 12, 339n 12; in Paris, 13, 19–21, 341n 19; photo album of DV by, 23; wife’s scandal and, 51–53, 66–67, 71, 348n 71; World War II and, 138–39
Damrosch, Anita, 59
Damrosch, Walter, 59
Dance magazine, 309
Daves, Jessica, 257; appearance, 183, 363n 183; DV and, 184–85; as editor in chief, Vogue, 179, 180, 182–85, 186, 188, 301; prudery of, 183–84, 246; resignation from Vogue, 185; vision for Vogue, 184
Davis, George, 105, 110, 140
Debutante Calendar, The, 60
Deems, Richard, 170, 180
de Gaulle, Charles, 301
de Gunzburg, Nicolas, 140, 156, 253
Delafield, Wanda, 133
de la Renta, Françoise, 224, 279, 296
de la Renta, Oscar, 224, 238, 253, 276, 281, 307, 320, 321; as CFDA president, 277–78, 279; Party of the Year and, 278, 279, 296
de Menil, Jean and Dominique, 290, 291
de Meyer, Baron Adolph, 74, 107
d’Erlanger, Baba. See Faucigny-Lucinge, Princess Jean-Louis de
d’Erlanger, Baroness Catherine, 77–78, 91, 139
d’Erlanger, Edwina, 99, 139, 262
d’Erlanger, Baron Frédéric, 77
d’Erlanger, Mrs. Leo, 215
d’Erlanger, Leo, 125
d’Erlanger, Robin, 77
d’Erlanger, Mrs. Robin, 111
d’Erlanger, Baron Rodolphe, 91
Derujinsky, Gleb, 167, 198
Devlin, Polly, 232; on DV, 2, 5
de Wolfe, Elsie Mendl, 75, 80–81, 84, 90, 91, 113, 139, 293, 301, 353n 101; Villa Trianon, France and, 81; Wallis Simpson and, 99
Diaghilev, Sergei Pavlovich, 26, 32, 37, 87, 214, 216, 301; DV’s exhibition of, 309
Diana Vreeland (Dwight), 6, 303
Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel (L. Vreeland), 6
Dietrich, Marlene, 90
Dillon, Douglas, 272, 296
Dillon, Mrs. Douglas, 279
di Montezemolo, Catherine, 231
Dinesen, Isak, 343n 32
Dior, Christian, 144–46, 161, 184; “Corolle” line, 144–45; DV’s opinion of, 145–46; first collection, 1947, 144; New Look, 145, 358n 145
Dolly Sisters, 301
Donen, Stanley, 169
Donovan, Carrie, 180, 227, 254, 255
Donovan, Terence, 205
Douglas, Ann, 46
Dovima, 159, 162, 168, 169, 206
Druesedow, Jean, 311, 314
Dubinsky, David, 174–75
Duffy, Brian, 205
Duke, Angier Biddle, 150
Duke, Doris, 218, 274
Duncan, Isadora, 36, 237, 245, 293
Duranty, Walter, 53
Durst, André, 125
D.V. (Vreeland), 6, 303, 311
Dwight, Eleanor, 6, 47, 190, 303
Dylan, Bob, 202
Eberstadt, Mr. and Mrs. Frederick, 288
Edward VII, 82
Edward VIII, . See Windsor, Duke of
Efimova, Luiza, 295
Ekland, Britt, 238
Ellis, John Washington (great-grandfather), 14, 19–20, 64, 339n 14
Engelhard, Charles W. Jr., 223–24, 258, 359n 155
Engelhard, Jane, 359n 155
Epic of America, The (Adams), 46
Ertegun, Ahmet, 288
Ertegun, Mica, 215, 288, 296
Esparza, Ramon, 273, 275
Eula, Joe, 276
Evans, Mary, 209
Fabiola, Queen of Belgium, 274
Fairchild, John, 174, 180, 325
fashion, 6, 146, 245; 1920s New Woman, 57, 58, 107; 1930s chic, 83; 1930s fashion dictators, 82–83; 1940s all-American girl, 133–34; 1960s, boutique design and youth fashion, 227
, 368n 227; 1960s, eclecticism, 229; 1960s, explosion of global market and trends, 227; 1960s, hippie-inspired fashion, 228; 1960s, individualism 243; 1960s, Youthquake, 202–3, 226, 227, 250; 1970s recession, 254; American designers, rise of, 125–34, 164–65; American sportswear, 127–29, 164–65, 183, 211, 228–29; American vs. Paris, post-war, 143, 145; Balenciaga closes atelier, 234–35; Balenciaga’s innovations, 200; Ballets Russes, influence of, 57; bias cut in, 84, 279, 280, 310; Chanel and, 85–88 (see also Chanel, Coco); as cultural phenomenon, 323; Diaghilev’s influence, 37; dressmaker’s lobby (CFDA), 277; DV in the 1930s, 84–88, 110; DV’s assessment of American, 1930s, 122–23; DV’s ideas and trends, 128–30, 165, 194, 211, 213–16, 321; DV’s influence on American women, 1, 180, 216; DV-supported American designers and manufacturers, 164–65; feminism and antifashion, 249, 252–53; the Flapper, 57, 58, 73; the Gibson girl, 46; as global industry, 166–67; Hollywood’s influence, 113, 280; identity and, 324, 328; international beau monde, influence of, 113; international fashion centers, 211, 215; Italian designers, 161, 211, 212, 324, 366n 211; mannequin du monde, 85, 146; New Look, 145–46, 161, 358n 145; nudity in, 246; Paris couture, 83–88, 119, 125, 144–47, 235 (see also Paris, France; specific designers); personality and best-dressed list, 1935, 88; photography, 74, 107–9, 130, 131–34, 156–57, 182, 183, 192, 205, 212, 248 (see also specific photographers); Poiret abandons the corset, 37; post-war curvaceous silhouette, 144–47; ready-to-wear, rise of 227–28; as reflective of times, 7, 228–29, 241, 322; Schiaparelli’s innovations, 83, 84, 112; as self-expression, 261; sexual attraction and, 324; shopping and, 58; society women as trendsetters, 78, 82–83, 111; Snow’s influence on women, 161–62; socioeconomic conditions and, 131, 144; transformation of self and, 328–29; women working in, 130, 356n 130; World War II and, 125–34, 144. See also New York City; Paris, France; specific designers
Faucigny-Lucinge, Princess Guy de, 76
Faucigny-Lucinge, Prince Jean-Louis de, 78
Faucigny-Lucinge, Princess Jean-Louis de (née Baba d’Erlanger), 77–78, 83, 88, 90, 96
Fellowes, Daisy, 83, 110–11, 118, 121, 274, 301
Feminine Mystique, The (Friedan), 226–27, 243–44
Fendi, 366n 211
Ferguson, Elsie, 46
Fish, Mrs. Stuyvesant, 16
FitzGerald, Frances, 233, 240–41, 251
Fitzgerald, F. Scott, 58, 339n 14
Flanner, Janet, 140
Fogarty, Anne, 234
Fokine, Michel, 35, 60, 343n 35
Fool There Was, A (film), 54
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