be wonder. A wonder in taste, versatility, and a wonder endorsed by doctors,
inner voice directed me to open a place that paired these two soulful foods, and
nutritionists, and naturopaths for its many health benefits. The chickpea is a
to do it with a sense of comfort, warmth, sincerity, and authenticity.
high-quality, protein-rich legume full of antioxidants, folic acid, vitamins, and
minerals such as calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium, and more.
For 17 years now, I have been making hummus and falafel every day, with great
love and devotion. It is a ritual surrounding the preparation and assembly of each
Chickpeas used to be thought of as a straight-up Middle Eastern ingredient. They
pita in front of the client, with the words that accompany this ritual – “How are
were treated as a gift to the entire world that originated in the Mediterranean
you today?” “How much hummus? Salad? Hot sauce?” – the delivery of the pita,
basin, but the story of hummus could have begun in Damascus, Beirut, Cairo,
personally transferred from my hands into the hands of a hungry customer. It is
Jerusalem, or anywhere else. It is easy to be tempted to focus on the politics
these gracious and magical human interactions that make my heart sing daily.
surrounding this golden pea, but every day, I see both Palestinians and Israelis
choosing to gather around a table and connect in new ways, sometimes unspoken,
For 17 years I have been studying hummus intently, a continuous and endless
as they feed their souls over a shared bowl of hummus.
learning process. Like the polishing of a diamond, hummus requires work –
perfecting, sharpening, and refining. And during these 17 years, I have been paying
More recently, hummus has been recognized and adapted into cuisines, homes,
close attention to the comments and reviews of tens of thousands of customers,
and restaurants globally. Every day, when I serve my food to the many Japanese,
friends, and respected professionals who have helped me in my journey toward
French, German, British, and American customers who approach my counter
perfecting the experience.
and order chickpeas in one form or another, I see its influence on other nations’
culinary tastes. It is no surprise that, with its versatility and its well-documented
The process is one that improves with time, as I continue to refine and
health benefits, the consumption of this bean is on an upswing around the world,
develop key recipes and techniques. It is everything from searching for the
turning what was once a trend into a culinary way of life.
highest quality tahini and the very best chickpeas available, to perfecting the
168
169
Tel Aviv
I feel so fortunate each day that the path I chose for myself (or, perhaps, the one
that chose me) was paved with this miracle ingredient. The chickpea allowed me
to build my own safe place, enabled me to fulfill the spiritual desire I so craved
in my childhood, and to invite others in to share it with me. Every day, I thank
every person, group, nation, and tradition that brought this gift to the world,
and the good grace of God. After all, God is in the hummus.
Ariel Rosenthal is an Israeli celebrity chef and the founder and owner of the acclaimed
restaurant Hakosem, one of Tel Aviv’s main culinary landmarks, a must-see (and eat)
street-food restaurant. For over two decades, he has been serving thousands of people every
day, with chickpeas as a key ingredient in all of his dishes. Putting his heart on a platter,
Ariel’s Hakosem serves as an all-encompassing experience of the senses, a culinary hotspot
frequented by celebrities and Michelin-star chefs.
170
Tel Aviv
Hummus
172
173
Tel Aviv
Hummus
174
175
B A S I C R E C I P E S F O R
Soft, creamy chickpeas are treasured by cooks, and their
presence enriches many dishes, from fish and chicken
C O O K E D C H I C K P E A S
to beef and lamb. They also form the basis for hummus
H A K O S E M
(pages 178-9). An important element in the preparation
of chickpeas is the time needed for soaking and cooking
them, but if you are short on time, use canned chickpeas.
Makes 4 cups (1 kilogram) cooked chikpeas
Recipe by Ariel Rosenthal
Cooked Chickpeas for Hummus
2½ cups (500 grams) small dried chickpeas
2 teaspoons baking soda
Cooked Chickpeas for Salads and Stews
2½ cups (500 grams) dried chickpeas
1 tablespoon salt (optional)
1 teaspoon baking soda
c o o k e d c h i c k p e a s
c o o k e d c h i c k p e a s
f o r h u m m u s
f o r s a l a d s a n d s t e w s
1. Place the chickpeas in a bowl, add water to cover
1. Place the chickpeas in a large bowl, add water to
by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters) and place in the
cover by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters) and salt,
refrigerator for at least 24 hours. The maximum time
if using, and place in the refrigerator for at least 24
for soaking chickpeas shouldn’t exceed 48 hours.
hours. The maximum time for soaking chickpeas
2. Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas thoroughly.
shouldn’t exceed 48 hours.
3. Transfer the chickpeas to a deep, large saucepan. Add
2. Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas thoroughly.
water to cover by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters),
3. Transfer the chickpeas to a deep, large saucepan. Add
add the baking soda and bring to a boil.
water to cover by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters),
Reduce heat to low and simmer until the chickpeas
add the baking soda, and bring to a boil.
are soft, the skins are split, and the cooking liquid is
Reduce heat to low and simmer, about 30 minutes.
thick and gelatinous, 1 to 1¼ hours. Make sure that
Add the baking soda and simmer until the grains
the water is at a steady simmer and the chickpeas are
are soft but still retain their shape, about 15 minutes
in constant motion. Use a spoon to occasionally skim
more. Make sure that the water is at a steady simmer
the foam floating to the surface.
and the chickpeas are in constant motion. Use a
4. If using whole chickpeas as garnish, use a slotted
spoon to occasionally skim the foam floating
spoon to set aside 1 cup of chickpeas when they are
to the surface.
soft, but before they lose their shape.
4. Let cool. Place the cooked chickpeas in an airtight
5. Let cool. Place the cooked chickpeas in an airtight
container and cover with their cooking liquid. Cover
container and cover with their cooking liquid. Cover
and keep refrigerated until ready to use, 2 to 3 days.
and keep refrigerated until ready to use, 2 to 3 days.
176
177
H U M M U S H A K O S E M
Hummus is a perfect food. It incorporates legumes
(chickpeas), fat (tahini), and grain (in the form of pita),
making it
an ideal vehicle for consuming protein. It also
Makes 4 cups (1 kilogram) hummus
happens to be a delicious and nourishing food, with a
luscious texture and dreamy flavor that dazzles the senses.
1¼ cups (300 grams) chilled Cooked Chickpeas for
Hummus (pages 176-7), plus ½ cup (120 milliliters)
When making the hummus, be sure to follow the recipe
chilled chickpea cooking liquid
to a tee. Using chilled chickpeas and chickpea cooking
1¼ teaspoons citric acid (see Note)
liquid is especially important, as it will produce a thick
1¼ teaspoons salt
and creamy spread. Recipe by Ariel Rosenthal
2 cups (480 grams) raw tahini
1 cup (240 milliliters) cold water
Note
Citric acid is used by many hummus makers
instead of lemon juice. It offers consistent acidity
and flavor, unlike lemon juice, which can be
volatile and turn bitter in your hummus.
1. Place the chickpeas, cooking liquid, citric acid,
4. Transfer the hummus to an airtight container and
and salt in a food processor and process until smooth,
refrigerate for 6 to 10 hours. During this time,
about 3 minutes.
the hummus will stabilize, develop a creamy texture,
2. Add 1 cup (240 grams) of the tahini and ½ cup
and its flavor will deepen.
(120 milliliters) of the cold water and process for
5. The hummus will keep in an airtight container
2 minutes more.
refrigerated for 2 to 3 days.
3. Add the remaining 1 cup (240 grams) tahini and the
remaining ½ cup (120 milliliters) water, and process
for 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning with
salt and citric acid, if needed. The hummus should be
slightly thin and runny.
178
179
H A R I S S A H A K O S E M
Harissa is a North African chile paste that can be made
spicy or mild, depending on the ratio of hot peppers
to sweet ones. Hakosem’s version lies somewhere in
Makes 2½ cups
between. Harissa is a wonderful addition to hummus,
and can also be used to season many other dishes, such as
2 cups (100 grams) dried sweet chile peppers
tuna sandwiches, shakshuka, couscous, stews, salads, and
2 cups (100 grams) dried hot chile peppers, such
cooked vegetables, as well as meat and fish dishes, such as
as cayenne
Moroccan Fish Hakosem (page 186).
25 to 30 (100 grams) garlic cloves
Recipe by Ariel Rosenthal
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1½ tablespoons ground caraway
1½ tablespoons cayenne pepper
2¼ tablespoons Moroccan or sweet paprika
1¼ tablespoons salt
½ cup (120 milliliters) distilled white vinegar
¹⁄₃ cup (80 milliliters) vegetable oil
1. Using rubber gloves and a pair of scissors,
4. Use a meat grinder to grind the peppers and garlic
cut the dried sweet and hot peppers, and remove
cloves. If using a food processor, process until the
any seeds or dirt.
ingredients are blended but not quite smooth,
2. Place in a bowl, add water to cover by at least
like a pesto or a tapenade. Stir in the spices, vinegar,
2 inches (5 centimeters), and soak for 24 hours.
and oil, and mix well.
3. Using rubber gloves, drain the peppers, and squeeze
5. Transfer to a serving dish or an airtight container.
to remove any excess water.
The harissa will keep refrigerated in an airtight
container for up to 2 months.
180
181
F R I E D E G G P L A N T
These eggplant slices are crispy on the outside and creamy
H A K O S E M
on the inside. Slice the eggplant lengthwise to disperse the
concentration of the seeds across each slice.
Makes 8 slices
When choosing an eggplant, look for one with firm flesh,
a deep black-purple color, and taut, shiny skin. If the
2 medium eggplants
eggplant feels light in your hand, that means it doesn’t
Kosher salt
have too many seeds, which is good. The fewer the seeds,
1 cup (140 grams) cornstarch
the better the eggplant. Recipe by Ariel Rosenthal
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose flour
4 cups (1 liter) oil, for frying
1. Peel the eggplants and cut in half across the middle.
4. Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot or a
Place each half on its base and cut vertically into
Dutch oven over medium heat to 350 ºF (180ºC).
½-inch (1 centimeter) thick slices.
5. Mix the cornstarch and flour in a shallow bowl.
2. Place the eggplant slices on a baking sheet, sprinkle
6. Roll each eggplant slice in the cornstarch mixture
generously with kosher salt, and set aside for about
and coat evenly in a thin layer. Lightly tap to remove
45 minutes. This will draw out the bitter liquid from
any excess flour.
the eggplant and ensure that it will absorb less oil
7. Slide the eggplant slices carefully into the hot oil
when fried.
and fry each side until golden, 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Rinse the salt off the eggplant and dry in a colander
Transfer to a colander or a paper-towel-lined baking
or on a paper-towel-lined baking sheet for about
sheet to drain excess oil. Serve immediately.
10 minutes. Blot any excess water with paper towel.
182
183
F A L A F E L H A K O S E M
If you are not used to making falafel at home, prepare to
be surprised. This recipe works wonderfully well, and not
only with chickpeas – any pulse will work in their place.
Makes 45 balls
The secret to crispy falafel is the batter, which is made up
of ground, uncooked, soaked chickpeas. Some people like
2½ cups (500 grams) dried chickpeas
to add flour or bread crumbs to the mixture, but there
1½ cups parsley
is really no need. The combination of water and baking
1½ cups cilantro
soda creates the falafel’s airy texture, while the onion,
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
garlic, and herbs add juiciness and rich flavor.
2 garlic cloves
Serve the nuggets on a plate alongside tahini as an
½ green chile pepper, such as serrano, seeded
appetizer. Recipe by Ariel Rosenthal
¹⁄₄ to ¹⁄₃ cup (60 to 80 milliliters) water
½ tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon salt
1¹⁄₄ teaspoons ground coriander
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
½ tablespoon nigella seeds
1 teaspoon baking soda
Oil, for frying
To Serve
Tahini Sauce (page 281)
1. Rinse chickpeas thoroughly. Place in a bowl, add
5. Place the cumin, salt, coriander, sesame
water to cover by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters)
and nigella seeds, and baking soda in a small bowl
and soak in the refrigerator for 12 hours.
and mix we
ll.
2. Drain and rinse the chickpeas.
6. Add the seasoning to the chickpea mixture
3. Using a meat grinder, grind the chickpeas,
and mix well. If the mixture is too dry, add water.
parsley, cilantro, onion, garlic, and chile pepper.
7. Heat 2 inches (5 centimeters) of oil in a deep
Alternatively, use a food processor to process the
saucepan over a medium heat to 350°F (180°C).
ingredients in several batches, until the mixture
Using a falafel spoon or a small ice-cream scoop,
is blended but still coarse.
divide the mixture into balls the size of a walnut
4. The paste should be moist and slightly crumbly, and
and lightly press to flatten. Fry the falafel balls,
should barely hold together when you make a ball.
6 at a time, until golden brown all over, about
Add water, a bit at a time, to achieve the desired
3 minutes. Transfer to a colander or a paper-
texture if needed. Store, refrigerated, in an airtight
towel-lined baking sheet to remove excess oil.
container until ready to use, up to 12 hours.
8. Serve warm with tahini.
184
185
Tel Aviv
M O R O C C A N F I S H H A K O S E M
An excellent mullet dish cooked in a thick aromatic sauce with plenty of vegetables and chickpeas.
I like to cook this dish in an aluminum pot, like they do the traditional way, to try and capture the
exact flavor and mood of the recipe. This recipe also works well with grouper, sea bass, or drum fish.
Recipe by Ariel Rosenthal
Serves 4 to 6
1. Prepare the sauce: In a wide, shallow pot (preferably
aluminum, though other pots are fine) arrange the
1 pound (450 grams) potatoes, peeled and cut
potato slices in an even layer. Then layer on the
into ¹⁄₄-inch (5 millimeter) slices (about 3
tomato slices, bell peppers strips, chile pepper, and
medium potatoes)
garlic slices. Season with turmeric, cumin, paprika,
1 pound (450 grams) ripe tomatoes, cut into ¹⁄₄-inch
and salt. Add the water, oil, harissa, lemon, and half
(5 millimeter) slices (about 4 medium tomatoes)
of the cilantro, and bring to a boil. Simmer for
1 pound (450 grams) red bell peppers, cut into
10 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook for
¹⁄₄-inch (5 millimeter) slices (about 2 red bell
Ariel Rosenthal, Orly Peli-Bronshtein, Dan Alexander Page 8