by Di Morrissey
‘Catherine, an Hawaiian is a mixture of races anyway. I don’t believe you know any pure Hawaiians.’
‘What about Abel John at the Palm Grove?’ demanded Catherine.
‘Ethnically he probably is. But look what he does for a living. He caters to tourists and trades on his background, how ethical is that?’
‘There’s nothing wrong with making visitors aware there was a long tradition and culture here that’s being lost. I’m going back in the sea.’ Catherine stomped down the beach feeling angry and frustrated. She felt she’d been chastised like a schoolgirl. She always thought she could never win an argument with Bradley, he was always calm, rational and somewhat condescending in any discussion and that infuriated her. It wasn’t usually till later when she’d calmed down that she came up with a point she wished she’d made at the time.
Suddenly she decided she’d go with Kiann’e to the rally on Saturday morning. She’d make some excuse to Bradley and he’d never know where she was. Now that she’d had the discussion with Bradley, Catherine felt it was important. She just wished she was more knowledgeable and had the courage to walk at the front with her friends. She’d never been part of a protest or felt the need to participate in one. But since being in the Islands, meeting Kiann’e and her family and friends, something had stirred in Catherine.
She realised that, although she lived in rural Australia, she had had limited contact with and knowledge of Aboriginal culture. There were Aboriginal families in Peel and on the outskirts but they kept to themselves. Guiltily she began to reflect she had become far more interested in traditional Hawaiian culture than that of the first Australians. But she knew she was not alone in her ignorance of Aboriginal history, traditions and culture.
She had superficial impressions of corroboree dances, men carving canoes from tree bark, brilliant stockmen in the outback, piccaninnies with large black eyes, the names of some Aboriginal footballers as well as that of a popular singer, and the uglier side of shanties and humpies, the problems stemming from alcohol. Was this what Kiann’e meant when she described the superficial stereotypical images people outside Hawaii had of their culture?
By the time she walked out of the ocean to rejoin Bradley, who smiled and held out her towel to her, Catherine had made up her mind. If this was her new home and her future was linked to this country, she was determined she wouldn’t be a bystander but would learn all she could.
Catherine left Bradley watching a football game with a bunch of his colleagues at a neighbouring apartment and drove to Kiann’e and Willi’s house for what Kiann’e described as sunset drinks and a light supper. It was a charming house that Catherine, who had already visited on a couple of occasions, called ‘old Hawaii’ architecture – lots of white wooden trim with carved fretwork around the eaves and a front patio that was made from slabs of dark lava rock. She thought that Willi’s business must be doing well for them to be able to afford such a lovely place. Its dark-red tile roof contrasted with the thick shrubbery and palms and flaming torches were lit at the front and on the rear lawn. Guests could be seen moving about inside through the large French doors.
Catherine was delighted to see Eleanor in the distance and Abel John kissed her on the cheek with warm aloha. Aunty Lani and Uncle Henry and their family were also there. Taki Kitamura was the only other person she could see who she knew and she was surprised by the number and eclectic mix of people.
Mr Kitamura greeted Catherine with a big grin and a slight bow. ‘Have you been taking lots of pictures?’ he asked.
‘A few. But I want to learn how to use the camera properly, not just set it on automatic and hope for the best,’ she answered.
‘Once you begin to understand, you will enjoy the challenge. Perhaps even learn to print your own films!’
‘I don’t know about that,’ she said.
A man joined them, shaking Mr Kitamura’s hand. ‘Good to see you here, Taki. Is this one of your students?’
Catherine held out her hand. ‘I’m Catherine Connor, and I’m hoping to master a beautiful SLR I bought from Mr Kitamura.’
‘You’re a photographer? I’m looking for a back-up for Taki on Saturday.’ He turned to the Japanese photographer. ‘Can you show her enough to shoot some of the side action?’
Mr Kitamura nodded. ‘I am sure.’ He smiled at Catherine. ‘You think you have the eye?’
‘Er, I’m not sure what you’re talking about.’
The man in the bright aloha shirt grasped her hand. ‘Sorry, I’m Vince Akana, editor of the Hawaii News. We’ve started up in opposition to the Honolulu Advertiser and the Honolulu Star Bulletin. I’m hunting staff and need as much coverage as I can get of Saturday’s rally. You’re going I assume?’
‘Yes, I am,’ answered Catherine. ‘I don’t know about working professionally straight away,’ she laughed. ‘Though photography has always interested me,’ she added, realising this was indeed the case, even if she’d never articulated it before. It was one of those things that she’d filed away as something to take up one day.
‘I can show you enough to take pictures at the rally,’ said Mr Kitamura. ‘But it will be better and more rewarding for you to do the course.’
‘Course? Where is that?’ asked Catherine.
‘Taki organises a photography course at the community college. Anyone can go, he’s been doing it for ages and it’s quite popular. There are some other great teachers too and he pops in and out. It runs for about six weeks. Between assignments, eh, Taki?’
‘I hadn’t considered a whole course,’ said Catherine, ‘but I’d like to find out about it. What sort of photos do you want, Mr Akana?’
‘Hey, it’s Vince. Well, whatever action grabs you, Catherine. Bring it back to the office straight after and I’ll get it processed . . . see if I can use it. Here’s my card. Oh, this is a volunteer job to help me. Call it a trial run, okay, but I will pay you for anything I use.’
‘Whatever you think,’ said Catherine, rather bemused at the sudden turn of events.
Vince Akana took Taki Kitamura by the arm. ‘I’ll just borrow him, point out a few faces I need. Catch you later, Catherine.’
Catherine stood there, suddenly alone in a sea of people, until Eleanor came over and gave her an embrace and kiss. ‘You look beautiful, how are you my dear?’
‘Great, thanks, Eleanor. It’s lovely to see you again.’ Catherine smiled at the charming woman dressed as always in her long muu-muu. ‘I’m doing really well. As a matter of fact, I think I just had a job interview!’
‘Glad to hear it. With Taki?’
‘No. As a freelance photographer. What’s the Hawaii News?’
‘It’s new and very good. Giving the others a run and Vince is fearless. He feels it’s his role to tell the locals’ side of the story. But he’s fair and unbiased. He’s the proprietor so he doesn’t have shareholders, a board or local councillors trying to influence him.’
‘I’m not sure my husband will approve of me submitting pictures to it,’ said Catherine.
‘I thought he would be proud of you,’ said Eleanor.
‘I feel I’m jumping the gun, my pictures mightn’t be good enough, anyway,’ laughed Catherine. ‘So tell me about the rally.’
‘We’re here to support Kiann’e and the cause. A lot of my staff are affected. They’re locals who live on small holdings – pig farmers, fruit and orchid growers who do shift work at the Palm Grove. I hate the idea of their being pushed off their land.’
‘How do you feel about development in general? I know the Palm Grove has been there a long time, but big resorts would be competition wouldn’t they?’
‘Not at all. We’re unique. And we’re all Hawaiian,’ said Eleanor firmly. ‘These Waikiki hotels have already copied a lot of my ideas, such as the fire-lighting ceremony. I don’t mind, it’s promoting the Islands. But throwing up glass and concrete all over the Islands, displacing people who have every right to continue their way of life on their land as they
’ve always done, is not right. All the money they’re expecting will pour into the Islands isn’t going to help local people. Profits go, whoosh, shooting out there.’ She waved her arm towards the sky. ‘Offshore. Things need changing.’ With that, she wandered onto the lawn to talk to another friend.
Just then Willi came in with a beaming Lester leaning on his arm and Catherine greeted him with a hug.
‘You look great, Lester.’
‘Good to see you here, Catherine. I’m glad you’re coming along on Saturday.’
‘I’m going to take some photographs for the paper. Well, that’s the plan, not sure how expert I’ll be,’ she laughed.
‘Be sure and get those boys in,’ Lester inclined his head to a group of young men on the lawn.
‘Who are they, Lester?’
‘They are board riders from the islands so I’ve been talking to some of them. They want to save the surfing beaches. You’re on a ride and you see that strip of beach with palms and mountains as you come in, it’s beautiful. None of them want big hotels, houses, condos, shopping malls on the secret beaches, spoiling their rides.’
‘So they’re all surfers?’ Catherine glanced out at the group. Save for the darker skinned local boys, the haole surfers all seemed to have long sun-bleached hair and were trim and tanned.
‘Yeah, good looking bunch. Seem to be nice guys too,’ said Lester. ‘I used to be like them.’
‘You’re still a good sort, Lester. So these surfers have come here to be part of the rally?’
‘You betcha. Surfers generally keep to themselves, but they feel strongly about the desecration of the shoreline. ’Course, a lot of them live on the beach, too. Just sleeping rough. Camping or living in shacks, you know how it is.’
‘No, I don’t. Lester, you know that I’ve never taken any interest in surfing,’ said Catherine.
‘Then it’s time you started learning. It’s what I keep telling you. Best place to do it, right here,’ he said firmly.
‘And there’s no-one better to tell you all about it,’ said Kiann’e. ‘Come on, Lester. Catherine, come and meet my mother.’ She took Catherine and Lester outside to the small terrace of the house.
There was no mistaking Kiann’e’s mother. Beatrice Lo’Ohouiki was a woman held in some esteem. She had reverted to her Hawaiian name after the death of her husband. She sat, straight and proud, in a cane plantation chair listening and occasionally nodding as people talked in the group surrounding her. She wore a dark-green and white flowered muu-muu and a bright red hibiscus in her greying hair. She had deeper olive skin than Kiann’e but her wide jaw, high cheekbones and large eyes showed where Kiann’e’s beauty had come from. As Catherine was led forward, Beatrice turned her attention to the shy young woman her daughter was introducing.
Catherine didn’t know what to say; Beatrice had a powerful personality, a regal air, that was quite intimidating. Catherine held out her hand and Beatrice grasped it, pulling her towards her, a wide smile breaking out as she lifted her cheek for Catherine to kiss.
The group made room for Catherine to sit beside Beatrice on the rattan sofa next to her chair.
‘I’m so glad you’re joining us, Catherine. Kiann’e has told me all about you. I am pleased she has such a sweet new friend and it’s important that newcomers like yourself are willing to learn about the true Hawaii, how it was, how it should be. Mahalo.’
‘You’re welcome,’ said Catherine, unsure what to say and feeling silly that she was being thanked when she hadn’t done anything. But then it occurred to her that the burning eyes and big smile from Beatrice were enticements and, like everyone else in the circle, Catherine was seduced. Lester, Abel John, one of the surfers, a haole couple and a young woman making notes, all wanted to do whatever they could to please and help this powerful Hawaiian woman. She glanced around the group. Mr Kitamura was discreetly in the background taking photographs, Kiann’e stood behind her mother, her hands resting on her shoulders.
‘There’s food inside, a buffet, help yourselves when you’re ready.’ Kiann’e leaned down to her mother. ‘Can I bring you a plate, M’ma?’
Beatrice lightly touched her daughter’s hand. ‘Please.’ She turned back to the man on the other side of her. ‘There must be no unpleasantness. We can make our point without aggression. Double check any banners, posters. And the line-up and order of speeches. Loud hailers? Microphones? The petition to be handed over?’
Aunty Lani strode out to join them. The two sisters were striking, strong, formidable-looking women, gracious and hospitable, yet determined and passionate.
‘Beatrice, let da people go. Food is waiting, no-one will eat until you come and help yourself first.’ Lani waved at the group. ‘Kau kau awaits.’
Lester got to his feet and, leaning on his cane, announced, ‘I’m ready. Can I take your arm, Beatrice?’
‘Don’t you play being an old man with me, Lester.’ Beatrice got to her feet. ‘Thank you, Lani, we’ll eat and talk more later.’
‘How about one mele or dance?’ muttered Abel John with a wink at Catherine. ‘You’ve settled in to the local scene. How’s your husband?’
‘Watching football. Have you come over from Kauai just for this?’
Abel John watched Beatrice and Lani make their way indoors and said, ‘Royal ali’i performance! Between those two and Eleanor a man has no power.’ He grinned. ‘Of course I feel strongly about this too. My ohana, my family, is affected. As is my island. Mahalo for coming along.’
‘Yeah. It’s good that malahinis are interested in what really goes on.’
The surfer from the group nodded to Catherine. ‘Tourists should be indoctrinated before landing here. The surfers love the Islands as much as Hawaiians do . . . you might think for selfish reasons, but our passion is real. When you appreciate the landscape, nature and mystique of a place, get into its soul, you can’t stand by and see it raped.’
They walked into the house. ‘I’m getting an inkling of the feelings people have for the Islands to remain an unspoiled paradise. But there’s always the other side of the coin. I guess every tourist place can’t be like the Palm Grove,’ said Catherine.
‘No. And those places that show themselves as Hawaiian are usually the Hollywood kind, or else they move in with modern Americana that could be straight from Vegas or Cincinnati. It’s the pace these guys want to go at that worries me. By the year 2000 the Islands will be bulging with high rises up and down the coast,’ said Abel John.
‘What a horrible thought. I see why Kiann’e and her family are so determined to restrain things,’ said Catherine.
*
The following day Catherine visited the classroom at the community college where Paul Collins ran his photography classes supervised by Mr Kitamura. She spent several hours learning the basics of her camera. She watched them develop a roll of film and make a set of prints.
‘I’d love to do that,’ said Catherine. ‘I can see how you can compose your pictures, take a bit off here, blow up a bit there. Fascinating. Can I enrol in the course?’
‘We would be very pleased to have you. Two evenings a week,’ said Mr Kitamura. ‘Paul runs the classes, but I like to help when I can get off Kauai.’
‘I think that taking a photography course is a really good idea if it keeps you happy,’ said Bradley when Catherine told him the next day what she was doing. ‘You could become the official photographer for the Wives’ Club.’
‘I don’t think so,’ smiled Catherine. ‘But the island is so beautiful I’ll never get tired of taking pictures.’
‘You can buy postcards, you know,’ teased Bradley.
‘But there’s so much to explore!’ Catherine paused. ‘I thought I’d spend a few hours downtown, take some photos of the old buildings and so on for Mum and Dad.’
‘Great. But the main reason that I think that the photography course will be good for you is because I’ve been given new orders. I’m going back to sea early next year.’
‘Oh. That’s not far off.’ It took a minute to sink in. ‘Bradley, I know you’re pleased, but I’m going to miss you. When are you leaving?’
‘I know it’s going to be hard on you, but it is my job. You’ll get used to it. Anyway, it’s not right away, the exact date hasn’t been finalised. We’ll still have time together.’
‘I guess I’ll adjust to the idea. I mean, it’s hardly a surprise. After all you are a sailor.’ Catherine smiled, but she felt shocked just the same. Knowing that something was inevitable and its actually becoming a reality were two different things. ‘Well, then,’ she continued, sounding more cheerful than she felt, ‘I suppose if you’re not going straight away, you’ll still be spending this afternoon with the boys at the rec canteen at Fort De Russy.’
‘Yes, if that’s still okay with you.’ Bradley was clearly pleased at her acceptance of his news.
‘You take the car, I can hop on a bus,’ said Catherine.
‘Don’t forget we have dinner at the Bensens’ tonight.’
Catherine found there were several locals on the bus who were going to the rally. They carried flags and rolled-up placards but there was only friendly banter as if they were going on a picnic.
There were hundreds of people gathered on the lawns and in the forecourt of the Iolani Palace. Kiann’e’s group were all dressed in Hawaiian clothes and wore maile leaf and kukui nut leis and headdresses. They looked impressive. Catherine was moved and took out her camera to photograph them. There were several other photographers, including Mr Kitamura, focusing on the group.
Abel John had a loud hailer. He began to call everyone together and explained there would be speeches from the steps of the palace and then a march around the downtown area. The male leaders grouped and performed a chant, echoed by the women.
Catherine circled around the growing crowd, photographing the people who were listening, talking and waving placards. A few tourists stopped to watch but shook their heads when told what the rally was about.