by Di Morrissey
‘Well, he’s not up to very much, Vince. He’s an older man with bad knees and a bit of arthritis. But he did get out on a board recently.’
‘Really? You get a shot of that?’
‘I took some, but nothing worth using.’ Catherine felt Lester wouldn’t want pictures of him being helped onto a board and lying down like a beginner being compared with the famous shots of him taking out surfing championships.
‘All right, run this other shot of him with the young guy as well. Is he a relative?’ asked Vince as he picked up a copy of Catherine’s picture of Lester and PJ.
‘No, PJ just met him. Though he’s a fan of course. But they have a similar look don’t they?’ Catherine studied the picture and suddenly recalled the early photographs of the young and handsome Lester. ‘PJ has more hair, Lester’s is a bit more cropped and smooth.’
‘That’s the difference between the 1930s and the 1970s I guess. So when you heading for Kauai?’
‘Pretty soon it seems. To fit in with the arrangements. Shame my husband is away. But I’ll make it a working holiday, Vince.’
‘Good for you. Whatever you feel like doing. You know folks there don’t you?’ When she nodded, he added, ‘You’re becoming quite a local. Give me a call if you get onto anything worth covering.’
Catherine rang Julia Bensen to tell her she’d miss the next meeting of the Wives’ Club.
‘You’ve won a trip? And you’re going to Kauai? Won’t Bradley be disappointed? And surely it won’t be any fun on your own,’ she said incredulously.
‘It’s sort of a working thing,’ said Catherine. ‘And I have friends there.’
‘You do? I’d love to go over there, I’m told it’s beautiful. Well, I’ll let Mrs Goodwin know. Do you want me to bring up your idea about the meeting place for the kids?’
‘No, if you don’t mind. I might have more information when I come back,’ said Catherine quickly. She knew that if she were not at the meeting to explain her idea, Mrs Goodwin would simply squash it.
As the island jewel of Kauai came into view from the plane, Catherine felt a ripple of excitement when she saw the postcard beauty of volcanic cliffs and forbidding dark-green forested hillsides, glittering waterfalls, secret coves of white sand, the bright blue water inside the ring of reef and the whipped-cream cresting waves. But glaringly sandwiched between the cliffs and the sea she saw the dazzling white buildings of a resort, a deep blue pool, artfully arranged palm trees and secluded bungalows. Then they were over the town and gliding to a halt at Lihue.
And there was the looming, smiling figure of Abel John in his familiar Palm Grove aloha shirt, striding towards her.
‘Aloha, Catherine! It’s good to see you back. I hear you’re Kitamura’s star pupil!’ He dropped a fragrant lei over her shoulders, kissed her cheek, picked up her bag and headed for the car.
‘I’m loving it! I’ll be looking for ideas of places and people to photograph while I’m here. How’s Eleanor and everyone?’
‘She’s good. Things da same.’ A slight frown creased his face. ‘Maybe that’s part of the trouble.’
‘What do you mean? Is the hotel not doing well?’
‘It’s not my place to speak stink but there are some big new places going up, big modern resorts that are biting into her business. The Palm Grove is old-style Hawaii now.’
‘But that’s what I love about it,’ exclaimed Catherine.
‘It’s not what tourists want these days. You know what places are like in Honolulu. I’d hate to see that take over here. We all love what Mrs Lang has done to bring Hawaiian traditions to visitors. It’s been important for us.’
‘I won’t say anything of course,’ said Catherine, but she couldn’t help remembering Bradley’s comments on their honeymoon that the older hotel looked a bit frayed around the edges. ‘So is there anything interesting happening on the island I could go and photograph?’
‘You mean for tourists or just for us?’ he asked. ‘I hear you’re going to see Beatrice. She’ll tell you what’s going on. And how about coming to my house, meet my family? Sure to be a luau happen sometime.’
‘Well, thank you, Abel John, I’d like that.’
There was a card from Eleanor beside a basket of fruit in her room. ‘Come for a drink before the fire-lighting ceremony. In my office. Wonderful to have you back at the Palm Grove.’
Eleanor sat at a long table covered in papers and notebooks and a vase of flowers. A large basket that she used as a handbag sat beside her. Reading glasses had slipped to the tip of her nose as she concentrated on writing in a ledger. As Catherine tapped at the door she looked up and came around the table, her arms outstretched.
‘Dear girl, aloha. How clever of you to win this! It was a wonderful picture of Lester. I’m surprised you got him to the beach.’ She hugged Catherine.
‘He went surfing the other day. Gave him quite a thrill.’
‘Really?’ Eleanor bustled back to her desk and made some space. ‘I’ll order a drink for us then I’m sure you’ll want to see the torch ceremony.’
‘Of course. Are there many guests staying here at the moment?’ asked Catherine, curious about what Abel John had told her but not wanting to mention his comments.
Eleanor rang through to her assistant and asked for two pineapple juice cocktails. She didn’t answer until they were both seated. ‘Not so many guests as we’re used to. Things are in a bit of a state of flux at present. It’s how the hotel business goes. Places come in and out of favour.’
‘But the Palm Grove is an institution,’ said Catherine.
‘Yes, and we have our regulars, but we need to attract more new travellers.’ She gave a smile. ‘So after some deliberation I’m planning a little refurbishment.’
‘A lick of paint, or something more?’ said Catherine. In her walk through the palm trees after she’d settled in her room she’d seen some heavy equipment at the back of the ponds.
‘Upgrading. Adding another tennis court and a new wing,’ said Eleanor.
‘Sounds expensive. But it won’t change the ambiance here, right?’
Eleanor sighed. ‘I hope not. But things are changing round here a little bit. I can’t hold onto my island oasis forever. Actually, Catherine, I’ve had to take on a partner.’
‘I see. Is that bad?’ Catherine wasn’t sure how to react as it sounded a sensible idea but Eleanor looked so sad.
‘Ed and I bought the Palm Grove and the Moonflower in Honolulu and I’ve always been proud of the fact we did it together without shareholders. Ed was great at persuading investors to bankroll us and of course they got a good return. But finding the right person with money to go into business with isn’t easy.’ She sighed. ‘It’s a bit like a marriage. Now, how are you and Bradley going?’
‘He’s away at sea. But I have to confess that, while I miss him, it’s kind of fun being my own boss and escaping the watchful eyes of the other wives. And Mrs Goodwin, the Commander’s wife. Eleanor, it’s like being in boarding school.’ Catherine wrinkled her nose.
Eleanor laughed. ‘This trip is a nice escape for you then. Is there anything special you’d like to do? You can borrow my car any time.’
‘Thank you. I want to explore and take some photos. Abel John offered to take me to meet his family. And I promised Kiann’e I’d see her mother and the rest of her family.’
‘Beatrice is involved in so many things. Don’t get swept up in her passion and commitment too much. You have to be careful of your position as Bradley’s wife and as a haole. I know, it took me a long time to be accepted by the locals and while I made this place a tribute to Hawaiian traditions and employ as many locals as I can, there is still some resentment. In your case you’re considered to be part of the military, which has lots of money and little understanding of what Hawaii is really about.’
‘I’m trying to come to grips with all that,’ said Catherine.
‘Those who know you appreciate that, but for some local people, uneduc
ated, poor, ill informed, you represent what they don’t have. But enough of this negative talk, come and enjoy the best of the island.’ She glanced at her watch. ‘We’d better go, it’s the magic hour.’
Sitting amongst the sprinkling of guests as Kane, the young Hawaiian, ran through the palm trees lighting the flame torches, Catherine watched Eleanor charm, smile and greet people before picking up the microphone to explain the meaning and significance of the lighting of the torches. No-one would have guessed she had any worries in the world other than the comfort and care of her guests.
The next morning Catherine met Abel John who was taking her sightseeing while he ran a few errands for Eleanor and then later to his house for lunch. Catherine wasn’t sure how much Eleanor had taken the affable Hawaiian into her confidence so she asked cautiously, ‘I saw a lot of heavy equipment at the back of the ponds. Is there some construction underway?’
‘Yes, they’re going to excavate for another tennis court and more rooms. More modern style. People aren’t happy about that.’
‘Why? Because it changes the style and the mood of the Palm Grove?’
‘Partly.’ He frowned. ‘Some of the old people say it’s kapu land.’
‘What do you mean by kapu?’ asked Catherine.
‘Forbidden, taboo. Things can be kapu for many reasons. Originally it was a system the chiefs, the rulers, used. Perhaps a gourd on a stick in the ground, or a special rock or shell placed in a spot which meant Keep Out. It could have been to stop fishing or hunting to make the land more good. Today something might be kapu by a written law as much as by local ali’i custom. Anyway, Eleanor wanted to build elsewhere when we told her, but that new business partner, he want there be one view of the ocean from the top floors.’
‘Who is this new partner?’ asked Catherine.
Abel John shrugged. ‘Mainland guy. Some old associate of her husband’s. He’s got the money so he’s got the power. He never comes over here. She meets him when he goes through Honolulu. I believe he’s got investments in Alaska. She not tell me much, of course.’
Catherine was thoughtful. The tall Hawaiian was such a warm and friendly man, she knew Eleanor relied on him, trusted him and he was part of her inner circle. ‘I suppose, being on her own, she hasn’t got anyone to share confidences with anymore.’
‘She talks to old Lester,’ said Abel John, then changed the subject. ‘Let’s check out Pinetrees.’
‘You like surfing?’ asked Catherine.
Abel John turned and looked at her to see if she was serious. ‘You don’t like surfing, you are consumed, obsessed. It’s a way of life and for me it’s my heritage. Only the ali’i were allowed to ride the waves, the sport of kings.’
‘Bradley told me the sport is very old,’ said Catherine as Abel John turned the car down a winding dirt road lined with banana trees and flowering shrubs.
‘Have you seen the old prints Eleanor has around the hotel? They’re copies from the Bishop Museum showing the old Hawaiians, including wahines, riding the waves on rough planks of wood cut from trees.’
‘Times have changed then,’ said Catherine.
‘Yes, now it’s you Australians who are the kings. They come in and really blasted the waves with their new-style boards, aggressive surfing. Shown the locals a thing or two!’
‘Really? I didn’t know that,’ said Catherine in surprise.
‘They like to come to the island and stay a few months. Come competition time, like, it’s crazy. If the break is going off they’ll probably be over at Pinetrees today. You might get some photos of the Aussies in action.’
‘Sounds good.’
They passed an occasional house tucked amid thick greenery. One had a goat tethered in a front garden, another washing draped over a makeshift line, another bicycles and old cars parked on the grass.
Abel John pointed at the simple houses in their lush and tranquil privacy. ‘I bet these go one day. Too close to the sea.’
‘But we’re miles from anywhere,’ commented Catherine who’d been following their journey over the mountains to the far side of the island.
‘Didn’t you see some of the big new resort complexes when you flew in? That’s the trend now, set up a community close to the water, surrounded by private grounds. Some are gated. They take guests straight from the airport to the hotel and half the time people never leave the complex! Good thing we still have the beaches where the surf is running. Too dangerous and long way for most tourists.’
Catherine understood what he meant when they came from the hills onto the coast road, still a dirt ribbon that followed the shoreline, until they came into a wide bay. The beach was a narrow strip between the road and the stretch of blue ocean and the long, right breaking waves off the reef made even Catherine catch her breath. But it was only when she spotted a surfer cutting sharply across the face of the wave, slicing the clean blue in a flashing streak, that she realised the size of the waves in relation to the speck of a man on the tiny surfboard.
‘Gosh, you wouldn’t want to come off in those waves! You’d get pounded to a pulp wouldn’t you?’ she exclaimed.
‘You have to know what you’re doing before surfing this spot when there’s a big swell running,’ agreed Abel John.
‘It’s certainly beautiful scenery,’ said Catherine looking up at the thickly forested volcanic ravines.
‘The best view is from a board out past the break as you sit there,’ said Abel John. ‘But you should take a boat trip along the Na Pali coast further north. That’s amazing scenery. Steep jagged cliffs, stunningly beautiful. Very magical. There’s no way of getting there except by boat. At least that part of our island might stay unchanged.’
Catherine was silent as they drove further on, Abel John keeping one eye on the waves. He then turned down a track and pulled over onto a grassy mound where several other cars were parked. Boards, towels, flippers and soft-drink bottles were dropped beside the vehicles.
Abel John pointed to the blackened remains of a fire on the sand. ‘I’d say they been here a couple of days.’
‘Who?’ asked Catherine looking around. The place was desolate. Beautiful but isolated.
He pointed to the sea and she saw another couple of surfers bobbing beyond the roll of giant waves. As she squinted into the distance she saw both riders suddenly take off on waves as if propelled by some unseen force and the next instant they were picked up by a surge of water that crested in white foam, turned over on itself and flung its great weight of water towards the shore. The specks were swept up as tiny corks in a great sea, lost to sight, then, to her amazement, they shot out at the head of the surging foam, zigzagging ahead of the wave as it dribbled and dispersed itself across the surface of the sea. So spectacular had the actions of the surfers been that Catherine realised she’d been holding her breath. The two surfers glided into shore, picked up their boards and stood on the beach where they seemed to be discussing the merits of their fast flight from break to sand.
When they turned and walked up the beach towards where she and Abel John were standing, she suddenly recognised them.
‘PJ and Damien! What are they doing here on Kauai?’ she asked Abel John.
‘You know them?’
‘Yes. I introduced PJ to Lester and I met Damien at the rally.’
‘Damien is one of the hotshot Aussies I told you about.’
Damien spotted her and broke into a big smile. ‘Hey, you get around!’
PJ gave her a nod. ‘Hey, what are you doing in Kauai? Abel John showing you his favourite breaks?’
‘I won a photo competition, the one I took of you guys and Lester. But I didn’t think Abel John knew all these secret places. It’s a totally new world to me,’ said Catherine. ‘How long are you here for, then?’
PJ shrugged. ‘Depends on the waves.’
‘I’m moving round. Got to see Molokai. Seeing it’s my spiritual home,’ offered Damien.
‘How come?’ Catherine asked the cheerful Aussie.
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‘My mum named me after Father Damien, the priest who helped all the lepers on Molokai. She learned about him in Sunday school or something. So as it’s my name and I’m in Hawaii, got to go there, right?’
‘I guess so,’ laughed Catherine. ‘Where’re you both staying?’
PJ waved vaguely behind him. ‘Staying with friends. Got a house back in there. Drop by any time.’
‘I only have a week. I’ll see how I go. Otherwise, catch you back in Honolulu.’
‘Maybe. Say hi to Lester. Tell him I’m still on his trail.’
‘You trying to outride Lester?’ asked Abel John. ‘He was one freak. One wild man. Don’t kill yourself,’ he advised.
PJ shook his head of sun-gold curls. ‘What comes along, comes along.’
‘Wait a few months. Those winter sets will test you,’ said Abel John. ‘We have to move wiki wiki, catch you guys later.’
PJ nodded his head towards the jungly growth across the road. ‘Come by sometime. See a different side than what you’re used to, Catherine.’
He was smiling, his even teeth looking whiter in his tanned face. His blue eyes held laughter, but there was a hint of a challenge in his voice.
‘I might do that. Enjoy Molokai, Damien.’
‘That’s my motto. Enjoy. See ya.’
Abel John smiled at Catherine as he drove back across the island. ‘You know PJ good?’
‘No. He doesn’t seem an easy person to know. He’s quite reserved. What do you know about him?’
‘He’s a waterman. Connected to the sea, always looking for the next wave. I understand him but I can’t do like him. I have family, a job, duties, work with my people. He doesn’t want any of those responsibilities. They’d cramp his style.’
‘Well, it sounds like you have a life. I couldn’t imagine just spending my time surfing. I’d be bored.’
‘Ah, you’re wrong there. It never boring. Every day is one challenge. You go visit Nirvana. You might find it interesting.’
‘Nirvana?’
‘It one old house that was abandoned years ago. It now home to haole kids from the mainland – dropouts, draft dodgers, hippie flower-power people. And surfers. Serious surfers.’